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geoff.

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Everything posted by geoff.

  1. @mboxler, I am in the process of acquiring the parts for a Universal crossover and was wondering why the .3 mH inductor is placed before the autoformer. My only thought was less un-needed signal going in is better? But having adjustable taps for the tweeter makes even more sense. To me... There must be a reason ALK didn’t do this originally. Parts Express sent me 6 mH coils instead of the 2.4s I ordered or I would probably be finishing at least one board by now, maybe that was for a reason.
  2. Bumpity bump for anyone else contemplating Cornwall B, B-2, B-3 crossovers.
  3. Nice, you even left the leads long...
  4. I think any answers to this may be treading on sacred ground. It is forum etiquette not to dis another’s aspirations in THIS forum’s Garage Sale. A little respect goes a long way. Now having said that, I recently sold a pair of Chorus 2s to a gentleman that turned out to be, amongst other notable things, an electrical engineer. He said without reservation that he would jump at the chance to get his hands on old oil cans and if they tested ok would not hesitate to use them.
  5. Fast forward a measly 3 years and that same 2uF Sonicap is now almost 25 bucks! ...I’m going to need a rider on my crossovers. Didn’t Warren Buffet just buy a chunk of insurance stock?
  6. I think another pair of older KHorns would be more of a lateral move, at best. And that price is on the high side of reality. Even in this over-priced world. Never owned KHorns, never owned a house with a room big enough to appreciate them so I’ve been told. I do have two pairs of LaScalas (LSI Splits) and a pair of Peavey FH-1 bass bins that I play around with. I am a big fan of a better tweeter than than the K-77 for starters. The Crites CT-120 and Dave A’s SMAHL with a DE-120 driver are affordable and reversible options that slot right into the existing tophat. I own both. A 2” throat mid driver on an appropriate mid horn is an ear opening experience, but now you are into some serious coin and some woodworking, unless you buy the Volti package. The Elliptrac 400 gets huge praise. Lots of driver options. I have a couple of 2” drivers and horns I play around with. There is a PRV D2200Ph driver and a ZXPC 18 x 10 horn that is a really economical experiment which sounds incredible for the money and would work with your existing crossovers with the addition of a cheap inductor you could mount on a separate board. The woofers can be swapped out relatively inexpensively with the Crites CW1526 and if you don’t like them, I would be one of several people that would buy them off you in the Garage Sale section of this forum in a heartbeat. Always looking for another pair of these... Crossovers are a personal choice. The AA you have are highly regarded by many on here. If you are going to stray from tried and tested designs you may want one with adjustable attenuation for the mids and tweeters. The ALK universal or a clone comes to mind. You could probably completely, and reversibly, transform your existing speakers for half of the asking price of those KHorns.
  7. $5500 will buy you every upgrade possible for your existing KHorns and leave you with enough change left over to buy a pair of used Heresys. But it will sound different, arguably better... What flavour are you looking for?
  8. How’s this for “better late than never”?
  9. That's a truckload of K-48s. And a couple of K-43s!
  10. That is a “buy on principle alone” deal. Worst case scenario you pass them on to a friend or family member for what you have in to them. And are forever after the toast at get-togethers.
  11. This morning WAS slow, seems fine now. ALL my internet was slow this morning despite an Ookla 58mbps speed test. I’m in Canada. Something was up.
  12. Walnut veneer would look stunning. Congratulations on your LaScalas. Every time I have ever sold a pair the majority of the interested buyers have lamented how they regretted ever selling theirs, lol.
  13. @mingham, I wound up here from your most recent topic. Consider yourself fortunate this one has only wandered slightly sideways, LOL! Curious what you came up with on the refinishing? Some here have stiffened up the cabinets by adding baltic birch plywood AND veneering them. But like most any modification it is a case of diminishing returns if not reversible. Professionally refinished in a walnut stain would look sweet to my eye, and stay closer to stock.
  14. @mingham, there are some other fine points about the AL crossover that only come to light with a bit of time in the soup. The midrange is more attenuated in the AL (and AL-2, which is a/an unicorn) than on any other crossover. It is -6db, for comparison the AL-3 is -4db, and the AA that many like to knock down in the mids comes in stock at -3db. I am 56, if I remember correctly, and the single greatest change (modification) I have found with any pair so far has been to replace the K-77 tweeter. Now this is another issue of contention with many, and like I said earlier, the stock AL-3 LaScalas I owned first warranted NO changes. But having already owned a pair of CT-120s I wound up TRYING them in subsequent pairs of LaScalas and immediately preferred them. Givin the choice new, I would, once again choose a pair of SMAHL tweeters. As always, your mileage MAY vary, but most of us on here are on the same journey. We just take a different path before we wind up there.
  15. Hello @mingham, first of all let me say I have owned several pairs of LaScalas over the years, and still own two pairs. I made the mistake of listening to what some on here have said and discounted the AL crossover before even listening to it. Bought a pair of A/4500s and requisite tweeters before even owning LaScalas in anticipation. First pair of LaScalas came with AL-3 crossovers. NEVER felt the need to change anything about them. Sold them a couple years later to fund my first pair of Chorus 2s... another story. Several years and a couple of pairs of LaScalas later I found a stock pair with AL crossovers for the right price and gave them a listen. I found nothing abhorrently wrong with the presentation compared to the speakers I OWNED that had the AL-3, AA, and A/4500 crossovers in them. In short, I regret trashing a functioning pair of AL crossovers. They were stock on at least three pairs of LS I have owned and both pairs of LSI Splits I still own. One of the problems with the AL crossover was traced to issues with T3A autoformer. But whether that affected all of them is not clear. I have owned at least two different versions(components) of the AL crossover and think there were three iterations. Others are not fond of the “elliptical filter” in the AL crossover, but that issue would be inherent in any version of the AL, AL-2, or AL-3. They all have it. Others on here have owned stock AL equipped LaScalas and took no exceptions to them. From my experience, I am in that camp. Having said all that, one restored pair of LSI Splits now has the Crites version of the AL-3 in them and the other pair has Crites A/4500s. I quite enjoy either. It should be noted that both pairs have some version of a DE-120 replacement tweeter in them. The SMAHL tweeter is what I would choose. Whatever you do, don’t trash the ALs.
  16. If he puts those in a pair of LaScalas that he has already listened to he’s going to need a headrest behind him so he doesn’t get whiplash!
  17. Hi Dave, I was going to suggest the Crites 1526, the steel basket. But I didn’t want to sound presumptuous. I have the the cast basket version in a pair of Cornscalas and they stomp all over the K-33, round or square magnet, I have both. Substantially lower response, a few hertz goes a long way down low. I’m in Canada and the cast baskets came up domestically, so that is what I snagged first (cheap, cheap). Once again, my understanding is the steel baskets go lower AND have another plus going for them, but it escapes what is left of my memory right now. Another member chimed in not too long ago about the differences between the two Crites offerings and sealed the deal for me if I were going new.
  18. That is a very comprehensive article (!). Would love to get a definitive answer on this one too. My money has always been on the square magnet version, simply because it goes lower, according to other topics I have read in here over the years.
  19. ...you’ll shoot your eye out kid!
  20. Can’t remember where I read it, likely in this forum. It was suggested to put it on parallel sides to reduce reflections. I tried the the white flat stuff pictured above (all I had at the time) tacked on the top AND bottom of my FH-1 bins with a couple spots of PL adhesive years ago. As @KT88 mentioned it KILLED the liveliness. Instantly recognizable as terrible idea. I removed the foam on the bottom and the liveliness came back. I too think the black egg crate foam (doing a 180 around the top of the woofer) would take care of internal reflections without killing “the liveliness of the attack and impulse”. I now have some egg crate foam for projects so I will revisit this with the FH-1s. I have two pairs of LSI Splits that would make for an “easy” comparison actually... one pair with and one without! That’s inspiring.
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