geoff.

Last month I stumbled across the midrange drivers for these while looking for K-61’s (same as in Chorus ii, Forte ii, Quartet...) only these were called K-62’s (?). I just received them and the ONLY difference I can see, if original, is a bug screen. Same phenolic diaphragm, but the frquency response is charted to 15 khz! Having had my interest piqued, I googled them and picked up the corresponding crossovers the seller also had available. They cross at 800 hz. I think I have found another fun project...

Thanks John. That explains it. I got 3.4 -3.6 on the ohmmeter, depending on how still I could hold my hands.

I thought I had read in here somewhere the K-61/57/53 was 3db MORE efficient than the K-55. As to the sound, I would like to know that as well. Please let us know your findings!

I picked up a pair LaScala Industrial Splits last week. I have not listened to them yet. They will likely replace my ‘92 LS in the living room... or I will be in the doghouse! Several questions are milling about, but the one that has me baffled the most is the 8 ohm rating on the bass bin, pictured below. I pulled the panels off the bottom of both bins prior to purchase to confirm the K-43 was inside and checked them with an ohmmeter. I did not see any other crossover components in the doghouse. Are they hidden somewhere else in the bass bin? I know the crossover is contained in the tops so I am stumped. What makes the bass bin 8 ohms when a K-43 is a 4 ohm driver?

AFTER

Thanks for all the suggestions! It really does boil down to whether YOU want a warm glow or a shine. I was leaning towards a warm glow and in lieu of BLO used Minwax Antique Oil. It’s primary ingredients were listed as mineral spirits and linseed alkyd resin(?). It was supposed to leave a “soft lustre”. Here is where it gets disappointing. I lightly sanded the tops as they were rough to the touch. The sides I left untouched. I prefer how the sides turned out. Regardless, it nicely darkened the oak, and it is protected now from incidental misfortune. BEFORE

Oh yeah, those are worth fixing! As to the PHENOLIC vs titanium debate, it usually is regarding the MIDRANGE unit. But yours are two-way so the tweeter is going lower, 1600hz crossover I think. I don't know which would be best here.

Titanium is the best of the lot. Before you buy a new diaphragm you may want to swap out the horn from the working speaker. It may be a component of the crossover that got fried. Just so you are not throwingg good money after bad. What model speaker is it? Picture??

Good news... sort of. You just need a new diaphragm. And it is a fairly commonly available one. You will want it to match the other one though. What I mean by that is there are at least three different ones available. You probably only need to concern yourself with two of them. Phenolic (looks like treated cloth) and poly(looks like rubbery plastic). Phenolic is the preferred option of these two, but you will want to match what is original, unless you purchase two and swap the other one as well. Any of us on here that have purchased the third(best) option - titanium(silver) would have the above two sitting around collecting dust. I have four off them I will likely never need, but live north of the border and shipping would be as much as the purchase price down there... What speaker do the horns come from. Are you able to give us a picture with the grilles off? Thanks!

If the plastic “horn” is still intact you should just need a diaphragm. Does the magnet(driver) have three bolts holding it to the horn? Pictures would help too! ...You likely will only be able to post one picture with each post, depending on the size of the file...

Is it actually the horn, or the diaphragm that needs replacing?

But would it sound better than a K510 with the same driver? The K260 dwarfs it!

Unless you live in Florida. For some reason they are giving those things away in Happy Meals!

You have found an excellent solution. WORST case scenario, you sell them for what you paid when you “upgrade” (to LaScalas).

This is one of the reasons I try to take a screenshot of all ads and include them in posts. For all but a select few this is pretty much of no use to inquiring (enquiring) minds. Lots of GOOD reference material disappears far too often. One could blame the Russians...

I thought NIB meant Nativity In Black, by Black Sabbath, and NOS meant nitrous oxide system to increase the horsepower of cars? It has been my experience that Klipsch Heresys, any iteration, near-field and elevated to ear-level are a rewarding listening experience. It was the original Heresy that hooked me decades ago. I have only owned 1’s and 2’s. I preferred the 2’s. What used to be called a “loudness” button, or on NAD equipment “bass eq” worked wonders for them. Klipsch speakers have a very balanced tone, and increasing the bass usually required a similar increase in treble to maintain that balance. At lower listening levels the results were always impressive. ”Herseys are the gateway drug to Klipsch” You are going to need a bigger house. Welcome to the forum!

Well, that sets the record straight then, doesn't it!

Denis V! What a way to make an entrance! I just drove 8 hours round trip for a pair of oiled oak Chorus ii’s. At $850 for the speakers and over a hundred bucks in gas I thought THEY were a steal! You are going to make someONE very happy! Whomever gets these, please let me know what you wind up finishing these beauties with.

Between the Forte 1 and the KG4, which did you prefer? Your answer here will decide your path. I am leaning toward the dual woofer design from personal experience. But you may miss the midrange definition of the Forte. Always a trade-off. Sabbath and Alice In Chains... nice. Snowblind and The Rooster! The only thing that punches harder than dual woofers is a folded bass horn like that of the LaScala. But YOU will need subs to satisfy the bass requirement. You owe it to yourself to audition them all before deciding. I sold a pair of Cornwalls to a guy that already had RF-7’s. I also sold a pair of CF-3’s to guy that had KLF-30’s, when I demo’d the LaScalas (AFTER the money changed hands) he was blown away.

Mark, thank you for your generous offer. I don’t know if shipping combustibles is legal, now... although I discovered some “herb” traces in the bottom of a pair of K-61’s shipped from Hawaii when I cleaned them up before installation. Come to think of it, a buddy restoring a Ford coupe got a gas tank from Texas that still had gas in it when it arrived.

Cornwalls have a VERY live/forward sounding mid. Not a bad thing at all, but the tractrix seems to just tame it nicely without losing the presence. The word refined comes to mind. They seem to image sooner too. As for the grilles, I CAREFULLY pushed my fingers along between the cloth and board (particle board in the 1’s, plastic in the 2’s) to separate them once I had penciled in the new opening. Millimeters at a time. Too much too soon and you may damage the cloth. NOTE : the plastic grilles are SHARP! Once enough grille cloth had been separated I placed a flat piece of metal (in my case a metal ruler) between the cloth and board and scored the board with a utility knife until it was cut through. I have done three sets of grilles like this. Hence the caveats. Lol I don’t know about the rest of you, but patience is truly a virtue that has it’s rewards when I exercise it. Take your time. The real trick so far is getting those stinking badges off without leaving the glue behind. I am not about to risk damaging the cloth for the tiny bit of glue left behind. I think someone else on here had asked about it too. I don’t recall seeing a soultion. As with the inside cuts to the grille boards, a black magic marker works to cover the glue too. Below is the converted Cornwall 1’s in the master bedroom. I just recently bought another pair of K-61’s (actually K-62’s ... ?) off Ebay simply because the price was right and they will find a home.

What is the “best” wood treatment for Klipsch “oiled oak”? I have used tung oil in the past with good results, but it doesn’t always have the same result. Less than showroom quality sometimes. I have also read here Watco Rejuvenating Oil is highly recommended, but it is extinct north of the 49th parallel. ...One might blame a succession of Liberal goberments for that... or possibly global warming. Watco Danish Oil IS available here at Home Depot in a variety of colours/stains. Home Hardware has Minwax tung, antique and marine oil. I want to do these right (the first time) as they appear to have not been treated since new and are in very good condition. I appreciate any suggestions.

LaScalas. There’s your answer. Eh!

Tractrix, same horn as the Forte ii/Chorus ii - 6 3/4 x 11 1/2”, fits AMAZING in Cornwall 1 & 2, I have done both... it is a bolt on, BUT there was a lot of discussion about an adapter here a month or two back.

Track saw, eh? I just learned another trick. Thanks! I am completely with you on the “portable” LaScala. I could never bring myself to cut a functional pair, but your case is a no-brainer!