geoff.

I’m still boggled by the fact that in all of Europe there is not a more comprehensive selection of polyester capacitors available. No 2uF or 12uF? That’s discrimination. The UN should be all over THIS.

Tom, that there's hilarious! Thanks for the laugh!

That Mouser website is fun to navigate…

…try the polyester caps @KT88 suggests Your tweeters will thank you, your squawkers will stay reserved, and you will be as close as it gets to the way it is supposed to sound without spending a weeks take home pay

Gentlemen, thanks for the replies. I'm using the real deal T4A. I do remember some posts on here stating the aftermarket autoformers have slightly different values. I guess I could always listen louder, lol

Question 1: Is 13uF the correct value for the T4A with 4db of attenuation? From another post (by DJK) the correct value was calculated at 10.36 uF. So would a 10 be more appropriate than a 13? Question 2: Why is the tweeter coil value (125uh) between the same two 2uF capacitors in the AL-3 half of the value of the coil in the AA crossover (245mH)? If I run the AL-3 without the elliptical filter would their be a more appropriate coil value? The reason I ask is I recently built a pair of AL-3s, and a pair of AAs, with some cheap ERSE polyester caps I’ve had sitting on a shelf since before everything doubled in price and I was surprised to find I preferred the AAs over the AL-3s, apples to apples. I was not expecting that. My first experience with La Scalas was with a pair having the AL-3s and what’s left of my memory recalls them being all that and a bag of chips. But this time around my brass ears found the AL-3s a little reserved. Like there was a hole in lower midrange/upper bass. I should mention these crossovers are in (on top of for now) LSI Splits with K-43 woofers, K-55M squawkers, and a variety of tweeters floating on top. I removed the grab handles and stuck a barrier strip on top of the opening for fast changes. Internal driver wires to the bottom and crossover wires to the top.

…I always cut the lead twice as long as needed, bend it in half, and double the lead going into the crimp Really nice looking work by the OP by the way. Cutting the wood cross sectional is stunning. Needs a Lexan case, unless there are no other lifeforms present, lol.

Soooo, how long is the break in period for mylar/polyester capacitors? Let’s get this one out in the open, lol

…so paralleling ANY capacitor will make the resultant sound brighter than a single value? Could that be a little of the bypass capacitor magic?

Cannot say enough about the K-48.

I’m running the stock K-43s in my La Scala Industrials, that’s how LSIs are accoutred from the factory. When I first got them I thought they sounded anemic in the bass department so I immediately set out to swap in a pair of K-33s I had on the shelf. I had a “regular” pair of La Scalas in the livingroom to compare them to. While I was in the doghouse I noticed, for all intents and purposes, the woofers were hanging on by a thread. All four bolts were literally loosened off up to a 1/4 inch and bent from the strain of gigging. The woofers were NOT airtight in the doghouse. Instead of tightening them at the time I proceeded with my first thought and swapped in the K-33s. Ran them like that for a week and then reinstalled the K-43s and actually tightened them properly. I instantly preferred the presentation the K-43s bring. I do not think there is any less discernible bass with K-43s in this application, I think there is more upper bass with the K-43 and that makes the K-33 sound fuller down low at the expense of articulation where it hands off to the squawker. The LSIs I have came with the stamped steel baskets, but I have seen cast, and vented cast frame (with 5-way binding posts!) versions. As was mentioned, the stamped steel basket version will not require any sawdust to fit it into the doghouse.

@Tom Bird, some vendor on eBay just listed a half dozen K-43s if you are in the market…

The K-43 does some magic in the upper bass that the K-33 does not. The lower bass of the K-33 vs. the slightly higher bass cutoff of the K-43 is not a factor in a La Scala bass bin which has relatively nothing to offer under 50hz anyway. They show up from time to time on the used market. Some even have the way cool "PWK" logo'd dustcap, which you would never see inside the doghouse... but it's still cool.

I am of the opinion that the titanium tweeter diaphragms are not optional. They have been an upgrade in every speaker I put them in, Chorus, Cornwall, Forte, Heresy, Tangent, in short, everything they fit in. My only regret is only buying THREE pairs last time I ordered anything.

K-28 is a great woofer, but is it not 4 ohms and @TheGoodTexan’s Heresys use a crossover designed for an 8 ohm woofer? Would he not need an as yet undesigned and approved Klipsch crossover for the mod to be discussed on THIS forum. …something that might turn them into “Super Heresys”

Silly question? Did you take an ohmmeter to the woofer? Reason I ask is I once bought a "defective" pair of RB-61s from Best Buy for 50 bucks only to get home and find the tweeter wires were not connected internally. I had already sourced out the tweeters too prior to opening them up.

Congratulations! You only regret the ones you let get away. And to this day I regret letting almost the same pair get away YEARS ago for $2200. I had just bought Forte 2s for $800 and couldn’t justify more than double the price. I would have no problem justifying that purchase knowing what I know now.

I have yet to use it but I thought I recall hearing on here “Watco Rejuvenating Oil” was the bomb.

If they are not cat-scratched and chipped, and all drivers are working, I wouldn’t hesitate to pay 2 grand. Those are oiled oak from 1986 so they would have the AB-2 crossover (a plus).

...we all know now the correct answer is, cables

C-weighted / Slow / Mic facing speakers / Eye level / No more than a foot from face Lemmeknow what the standard should be, please…

…they are not KP-250 IIs neither horn is tractrix

I’ve had a couple pairs of Chorus 2s, and Cornwalls, and Forte 2s, and Heresys, and… over the years, and still own a pair of KP-301s(Professional Series Chorus 1). Listening to them “as we speak”. I really think the Tractrix midhorn presents a less forward (more studio) sound than the exponential horns in a the “1” series Forte and Chorus and Cornwalls. Others on here have told me this is not true, but still… I tried titanium midrange diaphragms(with the requisite bandpass filters) in the Chorus 2s, but after about 70db they lose their sparkle and push back. Real sweet up to that point, give or take a few dbs. What has ALWAYS made an immediate, and not optional from where I sit, improvement was titanium tweeter diaphragms, or even better, an un-named machined aluminum horn lens with an un-named DE-120 driver. Now, if I was a crafty fellow, and didn’t mind hacking an OEM pair of Chorus 2 crossovers, or possibly build a board from scratch, I would swap out the autoformer with one that has 1db increment taps, put a swamping resistor across 0 and 5 and see what a little goosing would do to the neutrality of the mids. As it stands I would NEVER have sold my Chorus 2s had I not found a pair of KP-301s. There is no replacement for displacement, and I don’t want to think of a world without K-48 woofers. …gotta go, Ozzy is on stage, lol