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Everything posted by dhsettim

  1. Hi Jimjimbo, i would be interested in buying a couple of your 833s. I have a high feedback design underway based on Frank Blohbaum's Multiplied Transconductance Amplifier (MTA) philosophy. 1500V @ 180mA into 5K:6R OPT Contact me off list if interested timgrindell(at)gmail.com stay safe tim
  2. Thanks for the comments guys, I had forgotten about the passive radiator versions when I posed my question. I guess I was thinking more along the lines of DJK's mod to the La Scala bass bin as I understand the back chamber of that (and the Khorn) are marginal in volume. I thought maybe the Jubilee back chamber might also be improved. cheers tim
  3. Has anyone (and I guess I mean DJK) thought of porting a Jubilee clone bass cabinet? It seems to me that it is not dissimiliar (very roughly) to the La Scala bass bin and DJK has described successfully porting that speaker. Just thinking....... regards, tim
  4. Guys, Can the DHA-2 crossover be used with an 8 ohm squawker driver (Coral M100), or can it be scaled for the different impedance? I'm presently using a Type A crossover with new parts but it doesn't allow me to change autoformer taps, easily. My intention is to use Al K's tweeter attentuator transformer rather than the DHA-2's tweeter protection. thanks to all. tim
  5. Guys, On my 1977 Khorns I'm currently using a DIY 1st order Type A crossover using the UTC 3619 autoformers. I have also replaced the Klipsch mid driver with a Coral M-100 compression driver. (DJK says this is a Japanese copy of the JBL 2410) It is an 8 ohm driver so I vary between using the 0--2 (9.5dB) and the 1--4 (7.4dB) autoformer taps. (I have assumed that the attenutaion for the type A is the same as Al K has posted for his Universal type AA--which I also sometimes use) However I feel I would like attenutaion somewhere between the 7.4 dB and the 9.5 dB of the above taps. Is there some way to do this that isnt too complicated? Thanks for all and any advice, tim
  6. Thanks for your very kind offer John, but looks like DJK has put the stops on that idea. Wow, what an amazing mine of information thank you DJK. I might just stick with the ALK universal as I know and like it until I can actively crossover. But then again the temptation to tweak is strong........ thanks y'all tim
  7. Thanks John and Everyone, My K55 has the push terminals. Are they the problem drivers? My thought was the any 9 KHz peak would probably not be present with a different driver. I'm afraid I don't have the abilty to design a new crossover for an 8 ohm driver so likey to just stick with the ALK.......until I can go active.... It is a while now since I listened to the K55 vs the Coral but I remembeer the Coral being sweeter and more detailed. I'm not good at describing HiFi changes....they were just better. The details I have on the driver a very sketchy but from a frquency response graph that was fuzzily posted on the net I think it is more like 400 to 18K. Showed it to be smooth to 18K with rapid drop ater that but I have no way of knowing how acurate it is. I did try TAD2001 briefly and even tho' they are supposed to go to 22K I still felt a tweeter was necessary. In the end I may just try the Type A with the 8 ohm Coral and justsee what happens. Anyone got any recommendations for active crossovers? thanks, tim
  8. I am currently using an ALK Universal Xover on my 1977 Khorns, but with a Coral M-100 alnico 1 inch squawker driver. It is 105dB and 8 ohms, so I have found the 4-1 taps to sound best with my system. Some time back I made up a Type A Xover with good quality parts (as I had read that both Bruce Edgar and PK both preferred it) but I found some harshness which I assumed was the 9 Khz peak that has been described, and went back to the ALK. I'm not sure if I was using the Coral at that stage. I want to try again so can I successfully use a 8ohm driver with the Type A, and would the autoformer taps be the same? (Eventually I want to crossover higher as the Coral is said to go up to 18 KHz). I know, I know... try it and see...but I don't always trust my ears....... thanks y'all tim
  9. Y'all, for those using tweeters with Baby Cheeks what are you filling them with? I used childs "playdoh" but it dried out. I though perhaps trying blutack, or similar. Suggestions? thanks, tim
  10. ALK, I know ya won't be reading this but my thanks go out to you. I use your Universal Khorn crossover so have plenty to thank you for. Go well. tim
  11. Hi Dana, hasn't Bill Fitzmaurice done a lot of designs with "ported horns"? Lotsa articles in Speaker Builder and AudioXpress, and I think he frequents the AA High Efficiency forum. best wishes, tim
  12. Great work Al, as always. Ya just need to do the sums for a 1.5 inch throat and then everyone will be happy. Have a great Festive Season, tim
  13. Thanks everyone, especially JW Cullison. It seemed like a good idea as it was easily reversible but it seems that it won't work. Ok, onto the next idea. tim
  14. Hi Ya All, someone mentioned recently adding a 2nd woofer to the rear panel of a Heresy. They said to wire it out of phase but I would like to try it in phase to help cancel mechanical forces. Has anyone actually done this mod, and what changes need to be done to my Type E crossover to make it work. Thanks, tim
  15. Hi Al, "I have a friend using the TAD 2001 on his Khorn". Have you heard his TAD 2001s? What do you think of them? Any good? regards, tim
  16. Hi ya all, I like the idea of Al's Trahorn, but I also like the idea of having an upgrade path. So with the current 1 inch throat Trahorn what other drivers would others recommend besides the Klispch? Also Al, I fancy the idea of "cutting off" the horn at the 1.4 inch throat area and having an adapter plate so that a 1.4 inch driver or a 1 inch driver (with different adapter)could be tried. Same for a 2 inch throat. Not easy I would imagine but must be possible by someone clever and that could be an option to offer. This seems a good idea to me as from what I understand it is difficult to get a 1 inch driver down to below 400Hz to truly match the bass horn cutoff. And Al thank you being so generous for putting all the Trahorn information in the public domain. I'll buy ya a beer when ya come to New Zealand. cheers, tim
  17. Al, " He's already figured out an easier way to make it compatable with both JBL and Altec drivers without adaptors." Without giving away too many of Bill's secrets can you give some hints to how he has achieved this. I have a plan (no, make that a dream)to build the Trahorn for the Kdriver but change to a TAD2001 at some later stage. Doable? I hope ya venture is successful. I am still enjoying the ALK crossover (self build--but thank you) but do swap back and forth with my Type A. best wishes, tim
  18. Hi Al, always interested in your posts. Maybe you have covered it already but what do you see as the advantages of your tractix horn over PWK's K400 horn? Or in other words why did PWK choose the K400 horn profile ( whatever it is)? best wishes, tim
  19. http://www.audioroundtable.com/PiSpeakers/messages/266.html might be of interest to some. regards, tim
  20. D-Man, yes you are correct. I have recently put in some home made wire from Vampire's CCC stuff from crossover to the squawker and the Beyma tweeter and its alot more lively. Thanks for the idea. I still want to try angling the top box with the squawker to point it at the sitting position. Might end up by being too much but hey, ya gotta try. regards tim
  21. Hey Al, looking at your site I think the next increase taps would be 5 & 1 then 5 & X, but I don't know about the swamping resister needed. Am I on the right track? And once again thanks for your generosity with all ya info here and on ya Alkeng site. regards tim
  22. Thanks Al, but I want to reduce the attenuatiuon ie increase the squawker level, so to compensate for the loss I hear when I sit. What taps would that be? Thanks again tim
  23. Hi Ya All, when I sit in my usual listening position my ears are about 31 inches above the floor and this seems to be below the axis for the squawker horn (about 14 feet away)as the midrange level seems to drop. Several have commented that the bass improves when you sit down tho' I think it's the midrange decreasing. The options seem to me to either tilt the squawker cabinet to point at the listening position, or to decrease the squawker attentuation. I am using an updated Type A filter with premium parts (not the ALK at the moment) with the Universal #3619 autoformer set on the 4 & 0 taps as per the schematic that has been published here. What would be the correct taps for the next step in reducing the attenuation? As an aside I put the woofer inductor back in and it has cleaned up the upper bass--or so I think. thanks all, tim
  24. Thanks again Al, I'll go back again to your site and have a look. Would you say that it's due to this reduction in 40 Ohm level in the squawker that gives your crossover its major advantage? I am trying to figure out why PWK and Bruce Edgar both apparently prefer the Type A. I have built both,and am currently using the Type A, so must get the guys around one afternoon and do a comparison. I'll let ya know what the general consensus is down here in the south. best wishes tim
  25. Thanks Al, I am always impressed by your knowledge and helpfulness. Those impedance curves look pretty terrible. How does yours for the ALK crossover compare? thanks again tim
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