314carpenter

I got $750 several years ago. 9.5/10 condition. Some on this forum conform to the old stoneage prices as being standard of today. I am not one of those members. You can always accept an offer, but you can't ask for more after you already said yes to less. If they are still sitting after a period of time, adjust your price accordingly. These rarely sit for long, and current demand is strong.

Taken off the market. I am using it myself again.

SOLD

Klipsch The Three Mark II Matte Black Speaker $229.99 https://www.costco.com/klipsch-the-three-mark-ii-matte-black-speaker.product.100743890.html

Right. Been years since I have even heard of one mentioned. If I were local, I'd take it just because I'd think I would never get another chance.

Pitching in for your next Phase. Looks about the right size from the limited info I saw in your pics.

What does not work? I hope you were not referring to the legitimacy of my comments. Highly unrecommended. I can see that my input is no longer necessary here. I will be exiting the thread now. Thank you for your attention and good luck.

Lets try again. Lacquer thinner method: Is easier. Is less work. Is less destructive. Is faster. Finishes better. Looks better. Has a higher resale value. Allows for future restoration projects. Is the method approved and recommended by restoration experts.

All is not lost. You still have two more choices remaining 1 Attempting a custom 2-tone dye finish (difficulty 8/10) 2 Move to lacquer paint in your favorite color and sheen (difficulty 5/10)

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I don't know what your intentions are here, but if you just want to to refresh a black lacquer finish, then save yourself all of this trouble and start with this product here. Otherwise follow below... Those instructions in your OP sound like something I use after returning home from an auction with some primitive furniture having multiple coats of lead paint I needed to remove. If your finely veneered speakers are truly painted and not stained, and it is an original factory finish, then they are almost certainly painted with lacquer. However, there are lacquer topcoats, and these can be applied over stained, or dyed, veneers, so know the differences first. There are several varieties of lacquer, but your removal steps should remain the same. If your speakers are indeed lacquer, you will know this instantly simply by touching the finish with a rag dampened with lacquer thinner. Never do this test, unless you are intent to ruin the existing finish and are prepared to refinish the product anyways. Does not apply here, but it is the same thing with shellac, never allow contact with alcohol. Did you know that Ash is about 33% softer than Oak? Regardless, do not jump right in and start using #3 course steel wool as per your OP instructions provide. Avoid anything steel, as this will leave some steel fibers behind, which can oxidize regardless of whether the final finish is water or not. There are non-steel varieties of almost everything. Purchase and use synthetic. Again, work your way up as necessary, using the most aggressive components for last, ie; choice of stiff natural brushes. I would prefer that you do not use gently use a putty knife, as this will certainly mar the now moistened veneer, which will appear in your final product, and the veneer is possibly too thin to work out the damage you may have just caused. Do not go directly to 220 grit. Find the grit that is compatible with the coarsest wool, or whatever you used, and work up in grade to finish with 220. Read the directions of the finish you intend to use, as certain finishes require a certain grit in your prep. You do not need to sand down, other than to remove isolated damages deeper in the veneer. You could use wood putty very sparingly to fix those, but there are other methods as well. Sand that out evenly. Use an air compressor to blow off any dust. Followed by mineral spirits. Tack cloth last. Do not stain until you have tested you entire finish process on a raw piece of wood, preferably ash, but oak would work better for testing than pine. If you don't like that finish, easier to start with new test piece than a new pair of speakers. When you are prepared, start with the bottom first for all of your steps, both in prep and in finish. Even a seasoned pro gets better with each stroke......🤭 That's what she said. 🤣

Stripper weakens the veneer adhesives. Use only as a last resort. Always start with the least aggressive compound, ie; water, and work your way up as needed. Never leave wet, using the least amount of soak time possible. In this case most speakers you run into are going to either have an oil or lacquer finish. Oil finish is removed with turpentine by repeatedly wetting and dry wiping. Lacquer finish is similar, lots of rags. Protect your floors with a drop cloth. Use proper PPE, ie; gloves, goggles or face shield, chemical resistant gloves, ventilation or respirator. If you try this and you are unsuccessful, then you likely have an aftermarket product applied to the surface. Most likely a product with a varnish or poly additive, which may require stripping and sanding. Could also be a non-lacquer paint, which would only be aftermarket, and you should be able to detect that with the naked eye. Piano black finish has so many coats you would need a chisel, so forget about attempting removing it.

Edit: GLWYS. I am not in your area, and so won't be able to entertain an offer. You will not have any problems at all finding a good home for them soon enough.

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Just reminding others that these have the ability be perfectly synced, within the app, to create a wireless stereo pair.

Who doesn't love free shipping?

Why not drop the price. It's Memorial Day. A day for honoring all those who have fallen.

Add this to your watchlist. It's a silent film, you know, before the talkies. This one is with the long thought lost original soundtrack

What did you pay for them? If you have any issue getting an RMA on those I am sure there is interest here for them.

Correct. I can't even spell Shunyata let alone pay for it. This is mostly just getting the length correct and the XLR 35 and 50 foot runs should be a technical improvement over the RCA counterparts I am replacing. The change is now I have XLR dual sub outs on the Marantz AV7703. The "Onyx" rca cables are locking. I have been using "Onyx" rca cables for my subs.

It was a one day thing.

Just some changes to how my subs are connected, connecting an amp in another zone, and a bit of rack cleanup.

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