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314carpenter

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Everything posted by 314carpenter

  1. That center channel really looks impressive. To think I believed the Academy was the way to go all these years. Maybe I was wrong. There are some black KLF-20's, timbre matched to this center, floating around the North too for around $600. Could have a serious 2 channel Belle set-up, and a killer multi-channel all in one weekend of travel.
  2. https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/ele/d/mequon-klipsch-speaker-system/6980252883.html WOW! Look at that. Look so nice. Tired of seeing those beat down cabinets that keep popping up around here. And for this price, when you count the total package, you are getting a killer deal. Good luck loading all of that gear into one pickup. Might be time for a Uhaul rental. I am so glad these will not fit in my home.😎 Details from the listing: Klipsch Speaker System for Outstanding Home Theater Experience Great condition, single owner speaker system must be sold due to a death in the family. The complete set of (7) speakers includes: (2) Klipsch Belle speakers, made to order in 1993, BK Oak Oil cabinets with #17 grill (1) Klipsch KLF-C7 center speaker, purchased in 1998, Medium Oak finish (4) Klipsch KSB 2.1 bookshelf speakers, purchased in 1998, black; wall mounted or free standing Prefer to sell these as a set if possible. Also Available - Definitive Technology Powerfield 1500 Powered Subwoofer, $500 Terms and Conditions: In person cash sales only, no personal checks or credit cards.
  3. Sold The seller has informed me that everything has been sold. Thank you for looking. Good luck with your search.
  4. I am thinking about going shopping for a few wood appliques to add later just to add some personality. Maybe a pair of one of these stained a lighter shade? What do you guys say? https://www.amazon.com/s?k=uniqantiq+hardware+supply+wood+applique&s=price-desc-rank&dc&qid=1568713178&ref=sr_st_price-desc-rank
  5. After the shelving was completed, I moved on to a mock-up for a couple of the pieces of trim. Just figuring out what kind of kinks I will need to work out and how many tricks I gotta pull.
  6. OK, cat out of the bag. How do we keep those pesky shelves from sliding horizontally front to back? Million ways. I never seen this method anywhere before, but the idea came to me, so I decided to give it a go for this build. I bought a 3/16" brass rod and cut 3/4" pins, and chamfered the end cuts. I could have just bought shelf pins already made, but I made them myself anyway. OK, then drilled holes using a #14 drill bit 3/8" deep in 4 precise locations on each shelf. Very tight fit. Hammer them in until exactly 3/8" protrusion. Like I said, a million ways I could have done it. This method definitely took some time. I even have 3 variations on using this method that I decided against.
  7. Already taken care of. I edited your post for you. 3/4" solid oak. The material chosen is more than enough for the intended load without any possibility of bowing of the material, even after a great many years. Anything with a longer span would require a thicker material, but I am not near that point. Thicker material for my build would only add weight and cost for the benefit of aesthetics only. I will however definitely need diagonal and lateral bracing. That is coming up soon. The load is spread evenly between each caster, post, leg, foot, or what ever is holding it up. If it is 3 legs...divide by 3, if it 4 legs...divide by 4. You are correct in that the equipment weight will be closer to the sides, and a 100LB piece of equipment will not be loaded dead center of a shelf on one leg. Either way each shelf support will carry the same weight, and transfer that load to the support below it and so on all the way to the floor. The lowest carries the most, just like the cheerleaders in a pyramid. This is how the casters I am using have a rating of 250LBS, and having 4 of them allows me to have a maximum weight limit of 1000LBS. In cases where more capacity is needed just add more legs. My 10" subwoofer has 4 feet while the 12" has 6 feet.
  8. Do you smell what I am steppin' in? Don't worry. Those fresh cuts will get touched up and sit overnight. The cuts will soon be covered and remain out of sight. The paper shims are rosin paper. Need a very small gap available for expansion/contraction of the wood. Using brass hardware everywhere. #12 X 2" brass screws for the supports. Those screws are not bearing the weight, only the supports themselves are bearing. Everything is point loaded all the way down to the base. The brass screws only keep the supports in place. So the goal is to have shelving and supports that are removable, adjustable, and flexible in their arrangement all while each individual shelf maintains a weight capacity of 100 pounds minimum. Vertical shelf adjustment requires popping a few screws, and adding the appropriate size supports in the same manner seen here. Keeping the stain/finish recipe written down will allow for precise color match for any new support sizes I may possibly need years later. Everything is cut and drilled to within a few hundreds of an inch, so many of the same holes will still line up in a variety of arrangements. If I need to make new holes later, not a big deal, and the old open drilled holes would be hidden because everything up the side is covered up the entire way with more supports. As we can see here the shelves are supported underneath and also above allowing zero vertical movement. Also notice how they can still slide horizontally forward and back. I want to prevent them from sliding horizontally at all because eventually when I place very heavy electronics with rubber feet onto the shelf and push and pull them into position the shelf must remain immobile. It also must remain removable for reasons mentioned above. And we don't want to have to take EVERYTHING apart just adjust a single shelf height. A single piece of face trim with a few trim nails is not going to be strong enough to hold everything in. HMMMM. What would you do to make the shelves adjustable, removable, and still immobile? I will show you what I am going to do later.
  9. Sorry it took me so long to update this thread. There are so many small steps, and this diy project is taking up most of my free time. Took a couple of days off to avoid burn out. Ok, the wood finish is complete. I was not completly satisfied with the sheen of the General Finishes Satin. After some thought I decided to switch to General Finishes Flat. My theater room this rack will be used in is bat cave black so shiny sparkly things do not fit the mold. Just remember it is the final top coat that determines the sheen. The first topcoats applied should always be gloss (no flatteners). The flattening agents (which create the sheen) contained in all of the other sheens not labeled gloss will obscure the wood grain and color detail so use as few coats of those as possible to avoid a muddy looking topcoat. Next stage is installing the shelving. Wait till you see the complicated engineering I designed into that! Stay tuned. With flash on
  10. 314carpenter

    GONE

    Ok, so it took a week. Or was it 10 days? Forgot the lag time.
  11. In 1996 for the KLF-30. The market trend was pushing hard for speakers with a smaller footprint. Tall narrow deep speakers were in vogue. Electronics were coming standard with subwoofer outputs. Multi channel at home was a finally a real thing. Big old box speakers seemed very old fashioned. Kind of like how old muscle cars were getting dumped at the same time. LOL.
  12. I don't know WTF I am doing. LOL. At the time, I said this would be my forever AVR. Pretty much added so much electronics in the past year or two that everything I have now has been turned over once or twice. I think the only thing that is still the same is the Panasonic plasma. Even cables have changed. I keep telling my wife I am done. LOL. She says you keep saying that. You have to understand, I have historically sold very little, and made small changes once or twice a year. I has been a crazy time for sure. I have recently driven many 1000's of miles and have spent many $$$$ of dollars chasing down audio gear. I think this is why some call it an addiction. Maybe it is. Do I need an intervention if I am happy and enjoying what I am doing? At this moment, I think I am just recovering some space and some $$$.
  13. One more very useful tool that I have used in the past when I needed line of sight for a roof mounted 700Mhz parabolic grid antenna to pick up LTE Cellular for home internet service. Whew, glad those days are over. 😨 http://www.antennasearch.com/
  14. SOLD https://www.avforums.com/review/denon-avr-x6200w-9-2-channel-av-receiver-review.12461 https://www.homecinemachoice.com/content/denon-avr-x6200w-review https://hdgear.highdefdigest.com/36214/denon_avrx6200w_review.html https://usa.denon.com/us/product/hometheater/receivers/avrx6200w MADE IN JAPAN not in Vietnam where Denon has moved to now. 2nd only to the flagship Denon X7200WA Has the front wide speaker placement as an option No issues. Everything is perfect. No dings or scratches. Purchased from Best Buy 2 years ago. MSRP $2199 SOLD
  15. Sounds about right. That is where Klipsch is at with their current pricing on some other products. I bet that was not 7.2.4 either, just front wall
  16. SOLD All original packaging and paperwork included. Even the white gloves! and black bag it comes inside of when you open the box for the first time! It is mint condition, so check the links for the best photos https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=24456 https://downloads.monoprice.com/files/manuals/24456_Manual_190121.pdf Review https://www.audioholics.com/subwoofer-reviews/monolith-10201d-12
  17. 314carpenter

    GONE

    Still there. It is a little far of a drive for many.
  18. Here you go. Not affiliated. Posted these here because you do not want my mint Walnut pair in the other section. https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/ele/d/long-lake-klipsch-forte-ii-speakers/6977529708.html
  19. If you already own any of these, better to keep what you have. Money better spent on upgrading the front left, right and center channel speakers. If not....of these 2 speakers, RP-600M are better....unless you need wide dispersion. If you need that or not will depend on your room, seating, and speaker placement. Most cases use wide dispersion for side surround, not surround back. Also consider that wide dispersion in an otherwise acoustically untreated room may have significant disadvantages. Again, your specific situation is unknown, and therefore may vary (greatly).
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