314carpenter

I'll never understand why so many people in these forums have the inherent desire and feel the overwhelming need to constantly bash others decisions to use certain wires or cables that are very simple in design, and have very low cost differentials. If someone owns a certain speaker brand or model, do these same people go off telling them what their negative opinions are about those previous purchase decisions? Now when a person is asking a specific question about something, what they are saying is that they are now open to listening to our subjective thoughts. When they make a comment about something, they are sharing their views, but not necessarily asking for our opinions about their decisions. When someone says they have their speakers hooked up with 4/0 welding cables, should we be so inclined to tell them the error of their ways? Consider the idea that nobody really cares what we think, just so long as what is being offered it isn't actually detrimental to the drivers, hookups, or the OP's listening experience. It's their stuff, their choice, their money, and they obviously have reasons to do have done it their way. When someone has spent any amount of money more or less than any of us would have, why should we be the ones to tell them how they were wrong?

I going to miss the days of using 12 cents per mile as my benchmark for figuring what a vehicle should cost me over a given time frame. I haven't had to purchase anything in the past 6 years, but that same 12 cents is still holding strong for me. Just the car mind you, not the maintenance, insurance, gas, oil, repairs, etc. On comparing narrowing down used cars with 50,000+ miles, but different years, different price tags, I created a mathematical formula that leveled the playing field, so as to reduce the stress and headache trying to determine what direction to go in. It was pretty simple, but did the trick.

IMHO These will not last much longer. Unaffiliated, just saying.... KLIPSCH CORNWALL-MATCHED PAIR - $1,400 (Evanston, IL) https://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/ele/d/evanston-klipsch-cornwall-matched-pair/7455675801.html $1400 GONE Posted 2 days ago

@AZMike What you have is definitely rare and totally worth your best efforts. Don't cut corners. Do nothing to your speakers until you have a full plan in writing. Project budget is $400 max. depending on if you do this work yourself, and what you already have in your possession. There are specialized products, including dyes and lacquers, that have uv inhibitors in them. UV inhibitors are inherently expensive, so don't be put off on the prices for the better products. The longer they protect, the more they cost. These products are difficult to source. If you're paying someone else to do the work, make sure you tell them you require they provide you an agreed upon material list (including brands) before they ever touch your stuff. If they can't provide those details, or have any materials listed that can be bought at a big box store, you need to walk away. Once you have decided which direction you want to go, if you decide to proceed on your own, test, test, test . Buy a piece of matching wood species (doesn't need to be veneer), and buy all of your materials. Mark or tape off zones of your test piece. Work through each step, give each zone a number and write down everything. Once you determine exactly what it will take to recreate the look, you can practice your skils on a 2'x3' piece of hardwood plywood. The skills used to apply your products will need to be modified according to the size of the panel your working on. You can't just flood this stuff on and wipe off, or pad small areas and blend. It is a learned skill that you will need to perfect. Any errors will forever be on display. These are the kind of things that separate the diy'ers from the pros, the differences are always transparent.

Wrong. That's the stuff you would use for removing shellac. Repeating my post again... Lacquer thinner.

It should read, "This is a garbage speaker, already full of trash. Do not throw more trash inside.

Removing lacquer not a problem. If you screw up that part of the job, then you're a monkey's uncle.

Are you going to put them in sunlight? UV blocker. Otherwise lacquer thinner, stain of your own choosing, and some fresh lacquer. Temp. 70+ Humidity 70-.

In blind testing, bass is 30% of what factors into a listeners subjective opinions. As with any such question that holds this much weight, buy the best you can afford. Set up your system to take care of the details.

Last year I had finally decided to part ways with my 1978-1990 collection of NFL and MLB cards. I realized that I didn't want them anymore, figured that it would take me 1000+ hours to get full resale value for each of them myself. Then I took a look at my other 20+ hobby collections of crap that consume all of my time, and decided the best place for all of my cards was my trash can. Totally out of character for me, as I prefer to keep or sell, but I just didn't want to worry about what profits someone else got off of me. I'm happy now, and have no regrets. Don't know your situation but you may want to consider a donation with a receipt, if you can take the tax right off. Likely more profitable for someone to do that rather than sell for pennies that card dealers offer. Card prices have gone up again, but that's retail, and the buy-out offers have not changed. YMMV.

1) Living Room = TV + 5.4.1 Atmos. It's in my sig. Need 1 pair of RP500SA 2) Theater Room = Projector + 5.4.2 Atmos. It's in my sig. Need an amp. 3) Master Bedroom = TV + 4.0, Hope to upgrade to 4.2.1. Need bass shakers in the bedframe. 4) Sewing Craft Room = 2.0. Love it. 5) Garage = TV + 2.0. Love it. 6 Two desktop PC's, one per floor, with pc audio type stuff connected. Need better speakers. 7) See 6 I'm finally starting to run out of spare things looking for a home.

Same serial number on both listings tells me they have only one to sell.

Congrats. I really hope you get maximum enjoyment out of this new system of yours. I was wondering what that giant Star Trek looking machine is on the left. Is that the Pre-amp he built? Holy Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu. Please don't even think about going there. Keep what sanity you have left. JK.

More equations for the math club. According to Osha, hearing loss begins when these thresholds are exceeded... I. Computation of Employee Noise Exposure (1) Noise dose is computed using this calculation where L is the measured A-weighted sound level. (i) When the sound level, L, is constant over the entire work shift, the noise dose, D, in percent, is given by: D=100 C/T where C is the total length of the work day, in hours, and T is the reference duration corresponding to the measured sound level, L, as given in Table G-16a or by the formula shown as a footnote to that table. (ii) When the workshift noise exposure is composed of two or more periods of noise at different levels, the total noise dose over the work day is given by: D = 100 (C(1)/T(1) + C(2)/T(2) + ... + C(n)/T(n)), where C(n) indicates the total time of exposure at a specific noise level, and T(n) indicates the reference duration for that level as given by Table G-16a. (2) The eight-hour time-weighted average sound level (TWA), in decibels, may be computed from the dose, in percent, by means of the formula: TWA = 16.61 log(10) (D/100) + 90. For an eight-hour workshift with the noise level constant over the entire shift, the TWA is equal to the measured sound level. OSHA uses a 5-dBA exchange rate, meaning the noise level doubles with each additional 5 dBA. So the inverse is also true. For a 16 hour day 85 decibels is allowable. 80 decibels is the allowable level for a 32 hour period. These are A-Weighted values also. That means what your SPL meter "hears" is not the same as what the human ear hears, and this value varies over the frequency band. See chart below... You can see how SPL is A-weighted in total value in the chart below. Wouldn't it be fun to know how to calculate the curve in the charts above? If you want to read the mathematic expression for the curves, follow along here. Scroll to the bottom half of the page. It's just too long to post here. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/A-weighting So now we can measure our A-Weighted decibel levels at our listening position and apply that reading to this formula to get the maximum allowable time we can enjoy our music, at that level safely. where L is the measured A-weighted sound level and T is the time allowed

Sounds defensive. Didn't think my post implied offensive connotations. It was about the math. Relax. Where's my participation trophy?

If this is really what your using to make a purchase, you had better get your numbers right. The most important, and most contentious, figure in that calculation is the Speaker Sensitivity Rating. Better get that one validated. Drop that number 5 points in your calculation and see what happens to your Required Amplifier Power number.

I understand the question. I understand the math. What I don't understand is what part of this test is going to delineate the requirements at various peaks and transients. Sure you can test for a duration at a certain frequency, but what about when the load is shifting in milliseconds? What about power factor? Enter 1000 more variables too. What part of this test is regarded as a real world requirement providing a real world result of a sufficient answer? I'm not afraid of the answers, I'm afraid that if it were so simple, the audiophile community would already have been doing this and discussing it daily. I think what this thread has going for it is how STEM principles can be toyed with in experiments at our own home. So it's a cool thing to play with. Now I'm just going to observe what you guys come up with from my side of the neighboring fence.

Just yesterday I read a very useful thread post discussing the value of speakers, both in subjective and monetary terms. I thought by sharing this post here, it might help others here better understand what true speaker value means in today's market. Now, please understand that this link does not discuss Klipsch or heritage, vintage, or used speakers. What you can do is weigh your own thoughts about your own speakers against the other speakers that are evaluated in the link below. I have not heard most of these speakers myself, have not checked the validity of the content creator, or even checked on the pricing. What I have done is decided that for me, My older Klipsch heritage speakers just went up in value, in my opinion. I think that after you read the first few posts in this link, you will have a greater understanding of just a few of the driving forces impacting the resale values of these older Klipsch speakers. https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/passive-speaker-recommendations-for-usa-by-sweetchaos.28296/ It would be fun to hear from some of you where you think your own speakers would fit in, if they were included in the evaluation.

There are only 2 tools I would use to determine placement. If I weren't so lazy, I could get away with using just one of them.

Every once in a decade, I feel like I need to endulge in some real heart attack enducing cuisine. Today's meal came from a familiar place, but one I rarely have the chance to go to anymore. Jimmy' Grotto. No big deal. A total dive to go in. But it's literally the only place that I ever heard of around here that makes this one dish. It's called a Ponza Rotta here, but it technically is a Panzerotti. Think of it as your favorite pizza, put on steroids, rolled up like a giant pizza pocket, then deep fried. It's the kind of thing you need to check with your doctor to ask if your healthy enough for this. Better roll up those sleeves, and bring like 12 napkins.

Around these parts, turf wars were fought over who made better beer, and who made better sausages. Usinger Famous Sausage has been operating the same business, same place, still doing it the old way, since 1880. I can walk right in the door of their original factory location and buy it directly from them. It's like when I go to Colby, Wisconsin (Pop. 2038) just to buy Colby cheese, because, yeah they invented it. Not even going to try to engage the battle of the beer barrons around here though. For those of you who live on the coast, and your like, "Bro, what is a brat anyway", just check the blog... https://blog.usinger.com/

If you are an investor... that means you're actually interested in growth. Great, so am I, most assuredly. I feels good to have others who agree with your way of thinking. When you find someone else who has been on your path longer than you, who has travelled farther, with greater success, you hope to achieve what they have. I've always believed some things to be inherently true, but often I lacked the confidence in sharing with many others. Earlier in life, I couldn't express these things properly, or lacked real world knowledge to expand on them, but recently I've learned that I'm not the only one to have this knowledge so I can't be making this stuff up. That feels good too. There is a kind of mindset that flows in a certain direction, and we all have an accumulative effect on that flow. We are living at the very peak of Human existence in the best possible location on the planet for growth to occur. That fact alone leaves us the most blind to just how far down we could actually fall. A fall that can have a far greater effect than any stock market gains or declines could have. All of us here are golden, no matter what happens next. Relish in knowing that, and let those thoughts embellish you. Our legacies are already minted in time. Now lets expand the timeline beyond our futures. In the generations to come, those that have not yet seen the light of day, they will stand in great awe of our amazing success, of our exorbitant greed, and of our total lack of foresight. Their school books will teach them about how our generations were the ones who had the greatest power, the best methods, and had the most access to resources. The history books will also teach them how we were the ones who had the most opportunities to share our successes with the world that came next. Unfortunately for them, we will have proved to them that our own greed was much to great for the world to bear, and their own sufferings are a direct result of the choices we collectively have made during our lives. At this time, if you are at this very moment, forming thoughts in your mind about just how wrong I am, or feel at all defensive in nature, you especially should keep reading. The majority of you will fall into I don't know, or I don't care territory, but you are not excused, keep reading. I'm going to bring this down to a personal level. Just you and me here now. This isn't politics, religion, etc. so don't even go there. It's not that kind of a subject. I don't have any agenda. I'm not talking about numbers. I just want you to understand that there is a world that is still here after you no longer are, and what that actually means when you choose to live the way that you do. There are others who are more intelligent than I am, who are more educated than I ever will be, who can speak more effectively than I can. We all have the right to our own opinion, so consider how true it is that our views almost always revolve around a very short timescale, and serve a very narrow purpose. All I'm asking of you is that you read this in private, but please talk about what you read here with those around you who you love the most, and leave it at that. It's a 9 minute read, but it could change the lives of your families and others around you. https://illuminem.com/energyvoices/23a3d869-7b57-4eab-9179-2cc83466ec9a Now carry on with the thread, and try your best to not lock this one. No further need of comment is required here.

Still looking for a pair somewhere between the $200 - $400 range, depending on variables.

Still here. Sorry, but 20 post count is still a requirement to purchase. I could have just dumped it on the Auction Site, but I'm keeping it inside this community.