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Peter P.

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Everything posted by Peter P.

  1. Some linked suggestions for repair services: simplyspeakers.com The Speaker Exchange
  2. Sounds like the spider has come unglued. Try playing NPR talk programs. Play at low volume. If it sounds okay a low volume but as the volume increases the problem becomes more apparent, then it's the spider. You could also do this while turning down the bass control all the way and increasing it slowly. I would send the woofer out for a repair and I'm guessing the easiest way to access the spider is to remove the cone so they would probably re-cone the woofer at the same time.
  3. You can't go wrong with Fortes and they can sit close to the front wall (2-10"). If they're available in AUS on the used market go for it but I was under the impression they were rare down under. Also consider Chorus or Quartet but Fortes are the benchmark. Sounds like you're a DIY'er, but would Heresy IVs with a pre-built sub be more cost effective? From a price standpoint, you could always buy the Heresies and delay a subwoofer purchase. Shakeydeal is right; the efficiency of Klipsch Heritage speakers will not only blow you away, it will blow THE NEIGHBORS away! And please sell all your other speakers to please the wife.
  4. This is a great opportunity for your son to upgrade! 😀
  5. If it is so critical, and one would worry about the supposedly non-matching repair (audibly), then have BOTH passive radiators reconed.
  6. Here's a practical reason to get 'em off the floor-so they don't get wet. If you have your floorstanding speakers in the basement, and the basement floods, the cabinets will surely warp. This dawned on me when my basement flooded once. I had about 1/4 inch of water and thank goodness my kg sw subwoofer was on 1 inch metal coned feet (I bought it used, without any feet.) I dream about buying a pair of LaScalas some day but wonder how I'd protect them from possible water damage without getting them so high off the floor that it alters the sound.
  7. If I were the OP I'd ship the passive radiator to Simply Speakers and have them do the recone. Surely one can live with the big hole in the cabinet for a week or two.
  8. You mostly don't hear bass frequencies; you more feel them than hear them. Subwoofers are designed to dip into the "subsonic" frequency range. If the main driver on the sub is moving, the passive radiator on the rear is moving, and in fact the passive radiator typical is tuned to pick up it's job where the active driver trails off on the low end, so it is reproducing even lower, less able to hear frequencies.
  9. I don't understand the question above, please rephrase. From your original post I'd say you understand the differences between the RF-7 and the Heresy well. I think a lot of people go for the Heresy because sound aside, of its long history, reputation, and vintage looks. It does voice differently than a 2-way but not alarmingly so. Many people, including myself, recommend adding a subwoofer if you get the Heresy as the Heresy IV doesn't play as low as even less expensive speakers in the Klipsch lineup including the RF-7. That holds true for music as well as movies but it also depends on what music you prefer and how you tend to play it, loud, moderate, or soft. I think the Heresy only begins to show its value when you're playing moderately to louder levels. If your statement above is "how do you wire a subwoofer to your system" when you have the Heresy, that will depend on the subwoofer you purchase as well as your power source. More information would help here.
  10. I'll say the 362 doesn't play as low as a Chorus because the cabinet volume is smaller. The 362s cost less than a Cornwall because adding veneer is an expensive add-on, particularly labor-wise. All that matters is that you enjoy them.
  11. I believe this forum member performs RF-7 crossover work. His contact info is in the link I provided. You'll have to contact him for costs.
  12. 001 has the right answer. I would guess the output level is too low to be detected by the circuitry, so the unit goes into a standby mode. To prove the theory, increase the volume and see if the problem remains. I had something similar occur with an SAS Bazooka car subwoofer; it needed a sufficient incoming signal level to turn on. If I turned down the volume the subwoofer would go into a standby mode.
  13. Frontier DSL. Download 7.6Mb, Upload 1.7Mb. Plenty fast for web sites and youtube videos. I don't do streaming or gaming.
  14. I found the specs for the MSR 400s. There's no mention of how efficient they are, perhaps due to the internal amplification. But they only go down to 50Hz (+/- a very wide 10dB), despite being vented and having a 12" woofer, while the RF-62s reach 35Hz (+/- a very conservative 3dB) and are a very high 97dB/w/m efficient. You won't need a lot of power to piss off the neighbors! I'd say the Klipsch speakers would outperform the Yamahas and would easily fill your open space architecture. I could see where a subwoofer would be of benefit because of the room(s) volume.
  15. I don't believe in this "pairing an amp with speakers" stuff. Manufacturers can't afford to risk such narrow pairings between their components and other components. They'd lose significant market share and money. Buy the receiver and I expect it will be fine.
  16. If the speaker sounds fine with DVDs, then it's the broadcast medium. They may be broadcasting in an audio format your receiver is not set to, or it could be your internet provider changing the stream to fit bandwidth limitations. If it sounds poor on either medium, is it the always the same program, multiple programs, or all programs? Maybe there's a Netflix or Prime forum where participants have similar problems and explanations.
  17. I remember when you could TEST them at the drugstore!
  18. That's somewhat of an unfair statement-virtually all subwoofers of all brands come with plate amplifiers, no? I think the OP is asking a fair question. Looking at the specs of the two subwoofers, the only difference appears to 2lbs. in weight and the cabinet finish! I'd like to think that for the $300 price difference between the two that the R120-SW has an amplifier that can more withstand the vibrations a subwoofer produces. It could also be the R120-SW has better internal bracing. Which, getting back to Frzninvt's statement-I'm inclined to believe the most common failure of subwoofers is due to the vibration causing amplifier component failure. The simple solution is to separate the amp from the subwoofer-put the sub amp in the same location as the rest of the sound equipment and merely run speaker cables to the amp. And lastly to the OP, gregory s: Unless you hear some unusual sounds from the subwoofer or it can't play as loud as you want, I wouldn't lose sleep wondering if the R120-SW has some magic sauce you're missing.
  19. Are you sure it's not the source component? Try the same test with FM, turntable, CD, etc. and see if the problem remains. Is there damaged speaker wire, which would impede the signal level to one speaker? I agree with MeloManiac; if you want to reach down to 20Hz, you're going to need a subwoofer as no speaker reaches that low by itself. I noticed from Klipsch literature the speakers are bi-wireable; that means you can power the woofers separately from the tweeters. That also means if you remove the jumper bars, you can measure the resistance of the woofer. I would use a voltmeter and perform that test to see if there's a significant difference between the two as that would explain the difference in output. Do that and report back with the numbers.
  20. Report back if you buy the 600m's and let us know if you're satisfied.
  21. Can your A/V receiver equalize just the front main Ohm's? If so, I'd try to equalize the bass level to your satisfaction. Otherwise sure; you can use Klipsch bookshelf speakers for the mains. You've already got subwoofers to carry the low frequencies. The proof is, Klipsch already offers such a package.
  22. You've got two factors adding up to say "no". The Choruses won't fit the space without raising the TV and moving the center speaker off-center. WAF. You're lucky she doesn't want the Fortes to go. Be content with what you have.
  23. That looks like a polarized capacitor, 47mF, 35V. Try Mouser, or Digikey. Looks like it's a surface mount aluminum electrolytic. Be sure you have access to the solder points as it is difficult with some surface mount components, and look closely to ensure the traces have not been damaged.
  24. I'm of the school of thought that says you can't tell the difference between high end and "big box store" amps as you call them. Save your money and buy a run of the mill amp from the popular brands and you'll be fine.
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