Peter P.

I remember when you could TEST them at the drugstore!

That's somewhat of an unfair statement-virtually all subwoofers of all brands come with plate amplifiers, no? I think the OP is asking a fair question. Looking at the specs of the two subwoofers, the only difference appears to 2lbs. in weight and the cabinet finish! I'd like to think that for the $300 price difference between the two that the R120-SW has an amplifier that can more withstand the vibrations a subwoofer produces. It could also be the R120-SW has better internal bracing. Which, getting back to Frzninvt's statement-I'm inclined to believe the most common failure of subwoofers is due to the vibration causing amplifier component failure. The simple solution is to separate the amp from the subwoofer-put the sub amp in the same location as the rest of the sound equipment and merely run speaker cables to the amp. And lastly to the OP, gregory s: Unless you hear some unusual sounds from the subwoofer or it can't play as loud as you want, I wouldn't lose sleep wondering if the R120-SW has some magic sauce you're missing.

Are you sure it's not the source component? Try the same test with FM, turntable, CD, etc. and see if the problem remains. Is there damaged speaker wire, which would impede the signal level to one speaker? I agree with MeloManiac; if you want to reach down to 20Hz, you're going to need a subwoofer as no speaker reaches that low by itself. I noticed from Klipsch literature the speakers are bi-wireable; that means you can power the woofers separately from the tweeters. That also means if you remove the jumper bars, you can measure the resistance of the woofer. I would use a voltmeter and perform that test to see if there's a significant difference between the two as that would explain the difference in output. Do that and report back with the numbers.

Report back if you buy the 600m's and let us know if you're satisfied.

Can your A/V receiver equalize just the front main Ohm's? If so, I'd try to equalize the bass level to your satisfaction. Otherwise sure; you can use Klipsch bookshelf speakers for the mains. You've already got subwoofers to carry the low frequencies. The proof is, Klipsch already offers such a package.

You've got two factors adding up to say "no". The Choruses won't fit the space without raising the TV and moving the center speaker off-center. WAF. You're lucky she doesn't want the Fortes to go. Be content with what you have.

That looks like a polarized capacitor, 47mF, 35V. Try Mouser, or Digikey. Looks like it's a surface mount aluminum electrolytic. Be sure you have access to the solder points as it is difficult with some surface mount components, and look closely to ensure the traces have not been damaged.

I agree with your assessment and I needed dramamine to watch the video.

I'm of the school of thought that says you can't tell the difference between high end and "big box store" amps as you call them. Save your money and buy a run of the mill amp from the popular brands and you'll be fine.

At "full volume" virtually all amps will clip, shut down, or fail. I would expect you couldn't stay in the same room at "full volume". If it's loud enough for your listening pleasure, you don't need more power.

They're kg 4.2s because the woofer and passive radiator are the same size. The ad's dimensions aren't exactly accurate to make it easy to determine which model they are, but it's clear the owner doesn't know much about the speakers, hence the attractive price!

The local Jersey Mike's has a sandwich board/chalkboard where customers wrote their favorite Christmas movie. I had to check and make sure Die Hard was on there. I added a hash mark to make it two for Die Hard. The rest of the list was lame.

They are available close enough to me that I could hear them! My spirit is willing but prying my wallet open to buy them is another issue. HERE.

I just bought a pair of Klipsch Promedia 2.0 powered speakers for my computer. Quite frankly, the built-in speakers on my Mac just didn't have enough "oomph" which I attribute to their down facing orientation. I endured it for years and finally opened my wallet. The other thing holding me back was the limited space on my table. I'll start with the negative-the user manual is extremely difficult to understand. It took a while to figure out how to get the Bluetooth connection working. I prefer the Aux connection which I plug into the Mac's headset output. Lastly, the LED indicator is REALLY bright! And that's it. I bought them sight unseen and was surprised how much larger they are versus the typical unpowered computer speakers such as from Logitech, but it makes sense considering the internal amplification. They have plenty of output for watching youtube videos. And the sound is great, but the unusual thing is, even sitting roughly an arm's length away from them, I can't tell the sound is coming from the speakers! It's as if there is some audio processing that results in the sound just being "there" but not coming from a tiny box. Something else I thought of after my purchase: I could have bought a Klipsch power speaker like their tabletop models and achieved the same result with perhaps a smaller footprint. I wonder if anyone else has thought about using a tabletop speaker with their computer? I'm very pleased.

Just starting out? Get an SAS Bazooka. I have a 6.5" model. With my OEM radio I connected it to the speaker outputs of my rear speakers. When the OEM cassette (!) radio died I replaced it with a Sony that had subwoofer or preamp outputs, I forget. I also have the remote level and crossover control box which is handily mounted under the dash. I did not use the strap method SAS uses to secure the subwoofer to the vehicle. I stuck Velcro on the subwoofer so it would grip the carpeting in the back of my station wagon and not roll around (SAS is probably more interested in the tube not becoming a missile in the case of an accident, but if the sub is mounted in the trunk it should not be an issue.) Vented or ported subs will take up more space than a sealed sub, and if you go the component route there's more work and cost involved getting a box/driver/amp/capacitor together. The SAS is an all-in-one solution which is good for the beginner or people who want to keep it simple.

All I can say is wow; you did a nice job. Congratulations!

Scroll down THIS PAGE and compare the crossover you have with the schematic on the page. See if the values and circuit match.

Here's a brand new pair for sale locally on craigslist. I distantly know the owner; he's a legit seller of Klipsch as a small time business. Perhaps he'll negotiate on shipping? Doesn't hurt to ask.

I own a pair of 2.2s and they sound just as Two Point Two Dimension described. Mine sound fine to me and I never suspected aging capacitors. I'll be interested to hear TPTD's impressions after he changes the capacitors, but I think it's normal. As a point of reference, I recently rebuilt a pair of Avid 100s; bookshelf speakers with an 8" woofer and 1.5" phenolic ring tweeter. I replaced the tweeters with exact replacements because one had a puncture. I had a similar impression as with the kg 2.2s; while the crossover point is 2.5kHz, they don't seem to carry much information. Could be my hearing. Could be the single capacitor in the high pass filter. They still sound fine to me. Edit: Here's what I just did- I turned the bass control to full minimum, and turned the treble control to full maximum. Then I used the tube test to confirm the tweeter was producing sound. Yup; they work. I'm guessing there really isn't much musical information in the upper registers. And I just thought of another idea; TPTD should replace the capacitor in JUST ONE speaker, play some music in mono, and see if there's a discernible difference between the two.

I have her album. I was not impressed with her songwriting. However, she is clearly a talented bass player, sort of along the lines of Victor Wooten, and I think her strength is playing bass for others. That Jeff Beck chose her is certification enough for me.

Unfortunately, non-U.S. countries suffer when it comes to experiencing Klipsch Heritage speakers, probably due to high shipping costs of such heavy items. Since Cornwalls are a rare find overseas, and the price is very reasonable for that rare item, I'd grab them. I'd bet you could recover much of the expenditure by selling your current speaker set, offsetting the purchase price even more. The jumpers on the rear panel are not OEM, but they do the job so I wouldn't fret those. Report back with your impressions should you buy them!

An open or shorted component in a crossover isn't going to kill an amp. I'd put a voltmeter across the input terminals of each speaker and at least verify they measure something close to their nominal impedance, whatever is usually listed on the terminal cup. That will at least give you peace of mind. Then it's on the amps.

Nothing is going to blow up if you try it. But you MUST report back to the forum with your results!

Agreed. The Cornwalls will swallow up that short wall. You've already got subs if you want or need them although I'm not sure where they'll fit along the short wall. Your proximity to neighbors also tells me you won't be able to push the accelerator to the floor (unless ALL the neighbors aren't home!) so you don't need the muscle of the Cornwalls. The Heresies will do just fine. I live in a condo with a pair of Heresy IIs and I approve this message!

That's the result when speakers take thalidomide during pregnancy. 😗