Peter P.

I think the OP means he can't find WHERE the fuse is located on the amp. Remove the detachable AC cord. The fuse is behind the little faceplate where the AC cord connects. Use a little screwdriver to pop the fuseholder off. The fuse will come out with the holder.

I see nothing wrong with the price. The starting price I see for most Corwalls is $2k. People are selling Fortes, Choruses, and in some cases Heresies at that price and higher. Those Cornwalls are vintage, they have "beausage" and I'll bet they sound fabulous!

It might be difficult to find an exact replacement. I suggest you try Etsy or eBay, and buy a matched pair even if they are of a different style. Then hold on to that single you have and continue to search for its twin.

Although the wingnut sort of throws me off, I'd call it a "split bolt". You strip the insulation off two pieces of wire, usually larger guage like 6ga. or larger. One piece would slip through the top side of the bolt between the two washers. The other piece would fit on the lower side of the bolt. Tighten the wing nut. This kind of connection is usually for ground wires and not a voltage carrying circuit. What throws me off is the wing nut, which implies a temporary connection. Most of the time the wing nut would instead be a regular nut.

All this brawling about capacitors-I can't wait to read all the hullaballoo when it comes to ronajon repairing the cabinets! 😀

What's this "other grille" you speak of? Did you store them in the attic attached to a different pair of Cornwalls?

Sounds like you should have bought some RP-600Ms and a subwoofer instead of the Dynaudios. You would have saved a bundle and still had that Klipsch taste. Oh well, absence makes the heart grow fonder so, stick with what you have at your temporary digs and wait until you return home!

You could buy a subwoofer with speaker level inputs and outputs. These subwoofers usually have speaker level inputs and outputs so you would connect the LaScalas to the subwoofer's speaker level outputs. You could also run TWO SETS of speaker wires from your amp; one pair to your LaScalas and the other pair to your subwoofer. See below for why this is possible. Or, if the subwoofer of choice has only speaker level inputs as some do, you could connect them to the B pair of speaker outputs on your amp. These inputs should be high impedance so they won't strain your amp, but with this connection method it will dictate your choice of amp as you'll need one with two sets of speaker outputs.

Ship it out for repair. Perhaps contact Klipsch and ask for a referral to an authorized repair shop. There are some eBay sellers that specialize in Klipsch subwoofer repair. Won't hurt to contact one of them to see if they can repair your model.

He was a fighter, no?🙂

On behalf of the entire Klipsch community, you're welcome! Amazing that such a small speaker as the kg2 has lower frequency response than a Heresy. I'll bet they sound impressive. If you purchase them, report back with your impressions.

Agreed; Klipsch kg2. A variation on the input panel (round vs. square) but otherwise the same. Detailed specs HERE.

I'd be primarily concerned with how the flooring will react with the concrete foundation. Concrete does pass some moisture. If the moisture is trapped under the hardwood, might the hardwood absorb some of that moisture and eventually warp? Same holds true for any underlayment beneath the hardwood flooring. With carpet, I'd be concerned with mold as moisture permeates through the concrete and gets absorbed by the carpet padding or carpet itself. Ask these questions of a flooring expert before you buy. Of course, none of this has to do with acoustics! I think Islander has it covered above. I personally don't care for the sound of a "live" room so I would vote for carpet to absorb reflections, and all those non-parallel surfaces to diffuse/diffract the sound. What is this bulkhead/perforated ceiling you are referring to? Can you show us a picture of something similar? My only complaint about room treatments is they tend to not look aesthetically pleasing. I don't want a room to look like a lab or acoustic chamber.

Merckx, as in Eddy? You're not The Cannibal, are you?

Don't over-think things. Move the left speaker to the left of the left window and you're done. The way the seating and your chair is arranged you're not even facing the speakers so what's the difference? I'd consider getting rid of the couch and replacing it with a couple low back, comfortable and maybe movable chairs so you can sit facing the speakers. Or replace the sofa with a loveseat, again facing the speakers. That will free up a passage from your chair toward your stuff on both sides of the room. P.S., You want to arrange your music-hire a librarian!

If you're only going to be in location for five months, you don't want to be schlepping big speakers and a big subwoofer around. I'd suggest an SVS SB-1000 which is practically a 12" cube. I have one and it keeps up with my Heresy IIs. Your Dynaudios aren't that efficient so I expect most subwoofers should be able to pair well with them. As an alternative, buy the subwoofer on craigslist locally in Phoenix, and maybe the speakers as well. My casual look at Phoenix craigslist shows a lot of subs for sale, including some Klipsch models.

If they "basically have the same tweeters" then I'd swap tweeters between speakers and see if the sound quality you enjoy follows the tweeter or stays with the cabinet. That will tell you whether it's the driver or the crossover. Could be it's not a component issue but just the way the speaker was designed. Another thought; are the tweeters on the comparing speakers at the same listening height? High frequencies are more directional and you could be influenced by the tweeter height of the two speakers.

Sounds like (no pun intended!) it's out of warranty so you might as well poke around. First I'd swap woofers between your speakers and see if it follows the woofer. While you've got the cabinet open, check the spade connections o the back of the woofer and the end of the wire. If you swap woofers and the crackling remains, then it's the crossover. You can remove it and look for bad solder joints on the components. Tip: label your cabinets and woofers with tape so you don't get confused when swapping things. And label your + and - connections on the wires and the speaker, too. Report back with your findings.

You need to have the Heritage Series, horn loaded Klipsch iPhone. 😀

Leave the jumpers in place. Connect your speaker leads to EITHER the L or the H connections; the jumpers will send the audio to the proper section of the crossover. You're using the speakers in a desktop system. There's no way you're going to over drive them to damage regardless of the amp's capabilities. You're just not going to play them that loud with a desktop system. Don't sweat it.

You would think the price of used Heritage speakers would continue to drop with age, but instead they follow the rise in new Heritage pricing. So it appears sellers see a relative pricing between new and used i.e., When Heresy IIs were say $2k new, they might sell for $500 used. Now that Heresy IVs are $3.2k, used Heresies regardless of version, might sell for $800. The used prices I chose are not actual but purely for example.

I'll be the contrarian. I don't think the RP6000F IIs will be a considerable upgrade to your home theater. You already have a subwoofer to handle the low frequencies your R-41Ms can't handle, so there's no hole to be filled. The only benefit I see would be the ability to play louder. If you're not exceeding the volume capabilities of your bookshelf speakers now, then I can't see any benefit of purchasing the floorstanders. Save your money.

As an alternative, car panel removal tools can slip in and free the stuck seals. They're plastic so relatively safe for the wood. I'd suggest prying in the direction of the grain to minimize the possibility of damage. I use these in my job and they are effective. I purchased a cheap set from Harbor Freight.

You're right; it's technically not a subwoofer. But it DOES extend the low end of any speaker which doesn't play below 50Hz which includes most bookshelf speakers AND even larger speakers like Klipsch Heresies. I have a kg sw and I approve of this message!

What will you replace them with?