Peter P.

One end of that tube should terminate at the outside of the cabinet. The "inside" end (the end with the screw holes, I'm guessing) needs to remain open inside the cabinet. It takes the back wave energy of the subwoofer and vents it to the outside, through the tube. The result is increased output level and slightly lower low end cutoff frequency response. I was hoping you'd show us a picture of the end of the tube that terminates outside the cabinet, and a picture of the inside of the cabinet so we could see the relationship of the backside of the woofer to the unscrewed end of the tube. Edit: I found photos of the sub. It looks like the port terminates to the outside at the lower edge of the front panel. Here's a description of the port, from Klipsch: "Exclusive Corner Port™ Technology allows the subwoofer’s port tube to be as long as possible without bending, minimizing turbulence that can cause port noise and distortion. It also allows the enclosure to be tuned to a lower frequency than would otherwise be possible to create deeper bass from a smaller cabinet. Another important element is a corner-shaped flange at the port’s internal opening, which amplifies the benefits of a longer port." So the inner end of the tube travels in a diagonal inside the cabinet. The inner end of the tube is not blocked or pressing against the wall so it can receive the back wave of the woofer and transfer the energy outside. Resecure the tube where the caulked sections have separated, make sure the inside opening of the tube is not blocked, and your subwoofer should work better and not rattle when you move it.

It looks like a three-piece port tube, and two pieces have separated at the caulk. Are you saying if you couple the two pieces together where they don't currently meet, that the part with the screw holes "floats" and doesn't secure to that back of the cabinet? Photos of the outside of the cabinet where the port is located, would help.

Why do you suppose subwoofers come with integrated amps? Is it convenience? The result of marketing? I imagine a good percentage of subwoofer amp failures are caused by the large vibrations of the operating subwoofer affecting components on the amp. There's a good reason manufacturers glue down the capacitors and other components to the board and vibration must be it. I mean, what's the difference-you have to run signal cables from your equipment to the subwoofer anyway so why not a short RCA from your stack to a subwoofer amp then a single or double speaker cable to a passive sub? With the amp in the rack, all your controls would be front mounted for easy access, and add to the cool factor of all the knobs and switches on your stuff?

If the original plug is not polarized, then it's not an issue. You can still get non-polarized plugs from your hardware store.

When the factory CASSETTE stereo in my '95 Saturn crapped out, I replaced it with a Sony unit that accepted a USB drive or an iPod, either of which was inserted and concealed behind the hinged faceplate. You have to make sure your computer can convert the CD to a Sony compatible file format, which of course my Mac did. The only catch is, you have to go out to your car and retrieve the iPod/USB drive whenever you want to add more music. Currently I must have over 30 CD's loaded on my thumb drive and have no idea if I'm anywhere near the drive's capacity. The unit cost only a hundred bucks purchased from Crutchfield, and it works like a charm (Yes; I'm still driving that '95 Saturn!) I might be worth it to just replace the stock unit when you get the car.

Excellent write up from the OP. Relocating the LaScala's will not get you lower bass notes, just increased bass level. The solution is a subwoofer, but one that keeps up with a LaScala will be big and expensive. Sounds like the Forte's would be your sweetspot. But, definitely try the Cornwalls first. Heresies should be listened to of course, but you'll find them lacking in the low end as well when compared to the Forte's. Add a subwoofer to the Heresies and you may be happy. Adding a subwoofer adds mild clutter and complication, but is a solution for many that don't have the room for larger speakers. So definitely check out Cornwalls and see how they compare to the Forte's, both low end and physical fit. Ah, but those LaScala's...😀

Look at the photo of the rear of the speaker, showing the crossover and the midrange driver magnet. I only see speaker leads for the woofer and midrange connected to the crossover, and it looks like I can see grill fabric where the tweeter should be, as if the tweeter is missing.

You're experiencing the voicing characteristics of a two-way system, and your ears have been accustomed to three-way Heresies. Accept what they are and enjoy your purchase; I'd say what you paid for the speakers was a bargain.

The question is, what did the engineers have in mind when they chose diode protection and the breakdown voltage? Could be they were aware of the trade-offs.

Humorist Dave Barry's columns frequently included band names he'd invented. Here's a list. Have a laugh!

It sounds like MikeJapan stuffed the bare speaker wire ends from the Russound into the banana plug receptacles on the amp. I doubt they would have made a good electrical contact, hence the lack of sound. When that didn't work, I think he discovered he could unthread the banana plug connections and he found through holes in the shaft into which he threaded his speaker wires. Hopefully he'll correct me if I'm wrong.

Should you buy them, the forum expects a report on your experience!

LFE stands for "Low Frequency Effects". It's usually the LFE or subwoofer output connection on most A/V receivers. LFE are your explosions, crashing helicopters, and whatever else happens in movies!

WHAT WAS YOUR FRIEND THINKING?! You have to find better friends. 😊 There's a pair of Choruses being sold locally for $1400, which I thought were overpriced. Since they've been sitting on craigslist for quite a while, I'm probably right. The $600 for your "almost" pair is less than I paid for a pair of Heresy II's! If only... What if...

You could replace the rubber feet with spikes or simply metal feet and see what happens. Maybe just remove the rubber feet for test purposes first.

What TheMusicFreaks is asking for; lower bass from a Heresy without modification is just not possible. Even corner placement will only increase the bass level but not lower the 3dB point. Trade in the Heresy II's for Heresy IV's and you'll get some but not all of what you seek. A subwoofer, Grasshopper, is what you need.

How about refrigerator moving straps, available at most large hardware stores?

FLUKE, the last word in VOMs. I own a Fluke 179, which I use for my job. It also measures capacitance. Buy some spare fuses because you will sometimes connect your meter improperly. Quite frankly, I'm really surprised at the current price as I don't think I paid more than $200 for mine. Perhaps check eBay, where I see some very good prices, or check craigslist.

I agree with Racer X; wait until your repaired amp is returned and see if there is a change of sound. It could be the phono section of each amp, and not a speaker issue. Try running some CD's through the RCA receiver and see if the sound is any different. You can even buy adapters to stream from your smartphone, iPod; whatever if you want to test via that route. Just connect through a receiver input other than the phono input, which is not designed for the signal level of your smart device. Report back.

It's kind of ironic that such a legendary speaker has a bass limit equal to many bookshelf speakers, while most of the floorstanding non-Heritage series Klipsch speakers can play lower. Of course, it's a different sound, and the new Heresy IV attempts to mitigate that yet even porting the Heresy IV cabinet doesn't get the Heresy into the sub-40Hz range, that even the lowest tiered, least expensive Klipsch floorstander can reach. Heck; in the brochure for the kg series speakers, it makes mention of using their passive subwoofer, the kg SW, to augment the bass output of the Heresy II's, bringing it down to 38Hz. To Klipsch's defense, when the Heresy was introduced, there was little music which reached lower than the Heresy's limitations. It's still a great speaker, in a reasonable room-sized package.

Agreed. It's not worth the cost and labor to build two new cabinets around the drivers. Knowing the history of these two as you describe them, they're "playa's", not show pieces. I do think having two cleanly refurbished mismatched cabinets would look eyecatching. If you can't restore them reasonably to their individual good looks after removing the paint, re-paint them to match and enjoy the sound.

Update: From forum member Bubo's recommendation, I sought out an APC 15A G5 Rack Power Filter. I found used one on eBay for $98 shipped, tax included, which I thought was a fair price. It does exactly what I need; primarily it replaced my power strip which was tucked away in the cabinet and cumbersome to turn on/off. Now, one button turns on my amp, then my tuner. Secondarily, it protects my equipment. Lastly, it looks cool with the display and all the LED's! Thanks for the suggestion!

Buy a new timer. I just checked a cheapo, square-shaped timer I have and its single outlet is polarized, so they are available and about $6. They also sell a 2 outlet version for about $12. Check the big name hardware stores' web sites and you'll find them.

Agreed. As far as I know, Heresy crossovers do not have a high pass filter limiting the low end of the woofer. In fact, I don't know of any speaker manufacturer that does that. The low frequency cutoff of the Heresy is limited by the cabinet volume.