blue72

If you're feeling like throwing some sawdust, you can always make up a new motorboard and re-orient things like I did with my custom KG5.5 center channel. You can at least correct for the horn orientation and the woofers being off to one side this way.

In multi-channel sources, the data encoded on the disc or in the stream is full-range for all the main channels. Even the new Atmos mixes have full-range content in the overhead channels. There is also, of course, the separate LFE channel that has content up to 120 Hz. What usually happens though is that most people set their receivers or processors to filter the content below a certain frequency for their speakers. The low-frequency content from those channels is instead routed to the 'subwoofer out', together with the LFE channel information. Basically, any low frequencies below ~80 Hz are instead sent out to the subs in most setups. If you do have speakers that are truly capable of reproducing very low frequencies, then the information is certainly there to be used if your processing equipment is accordingly configured. One extreme example is the intro from Edge of Tomorrow. The beginning of that movie has ULF sine waves being sent to both the LFE channel and the center channel. We're talking shockingly strong signals at 30, 25, 20, 15, and 10 Hz and it is asking the center channel to reproduce them. Again, in a 'normally' configured system the receiver is re-routing that strong center channel content to the subwoofer out instead. Vanishingly few people have a center channel capable of reproducing 10 Hz notes at 115+ dB.

I believe I found the article in question: https://www.whathifi.com/reviews/klipsch-reference-base-2018-home-cinema-package

I've owned the Sony UBP-X700 for about 9 months or so now. It has been solid for me the whole time. I have only had two problems so far, and neither of them have been the fault of the player itself. First, I had to buy a new active HDMI cable because my old one's chipset couldn't handle framerates above 24 Hz. Second, certain 4K discs come from the pressing factory with a light coat of some oily substance on them to prevent them from sticking to the manufacturing machinery and/or each other when they are stacked. When I've forgotten to wipe the disc surface (I just use tap water and a microfiber cloth), sometimes the playback will freeze. The 4K discs are a tighter tolerance (or some such thing) than standard Blu-ray discs, so even minor irregularities can cause the player to search for the next available spot that it can read on the disc. This will make it appear that the player has locked up completely. After cleaning these same discs, they play back flawlessly. I do have one nit to pick, and that is that these newer Sony players no longer support streaming certain audio formats over a home network. Older Sony Blu-ray players could, but that functionality was removed somewhere along the line.

I bought one at the end of 2017 and have been using it almost daily ever since. I've never had a problem either streaming lossless locally from a PC or NAS, or just streaming lossy from Google Play Music. I just wish I had known they were going to be discontinued and nabbed a spare at $15.

Similar here, as I've got KLF-20s as L&R, custom KG5.5 center channel, and KG5.5s for the side surrounds. Over time we've grown accustomed to having the large speakers at the sides. One option would be to purchase a couple more KLF-C7s and use them as surrounds (rotated for a proper D'Appolito orientation of course). They'd certainly be smaller than a KLF-10, but they would be from the same family and timbre match everything else.

Can you just put them in front of the bookshelves? Do you have a picture of the space?

I'm still using a Synology 2-bay NAS that I bought and stuffed with drives 9 years ago. I run it with a redundant RAID 1 array. It was easy to set up and has been trouble-free the whole time. Synology has even been nice enough to keep providing periodic updates and new software packages. I can stream lossless audio from it to my computer, phone (they have dedicated apps for audio and video which can optionally cast to other devices on the same network), Chromecast, smart TV, or 4K player, all wirelessly.

From the owner's manual for the STR-DH770: Minimum RMS Stereo Output Power = 90 watts per channel (6 ohms, 20 Hz – 20 kHz, THD 0.09%) That is likely around 70-80 watts per channel RMS at 8 ohms. This is stereo of course. If you are running a full 7 channel surround sound setup this thing's power supply might only be capable of 30 or 40 watts per channel concurrently. I've seen independent testing of a 2011 Sony model that was rated for 100 watts per channel RMS in stereo, 8 Ω, 20 hZ - 20 kHz, 0.09% THD and when driving all seven channels at once it could muster all of 55.3 watts per channel at 8 Ω and 0.1% THD.

I'm running KLF20s as my mains. I wish someone had all the off-axis measurements for the horns on these things. If they acted anything like CD waveguides, then you could try the extreme toe-in explained in this paper: http://www.libinst.com/PublicArticles/Setup of WG Speakers.pdf For now, I'm running mine pointed roughly right at the MLP.

I'm using KLF-20s at the front, and a pair of KG 5.5 for side surrounds on either end of the couch. I tried them on the floor, but the arms of the couch noticeably blocked the output from the twin woofers. I did like many members have mentioned so far, and raised them up. My stands are simple 2x4s screwed together solidly and made to be 12" high. This improved the sound a good deal by getting rid of some of the blockage.

I shouldn't have watched this commercial. Now I'm going to associate vinyl playback with intestinal tearing and fungal infections.

I had a similar hole in my frequency response with my Sony AVR and it made listening to music super frustrating. The solution was to set it up properly. I had been under the assumption for years that using tower speakers meant that I should use the "large" speaker setting until I read about how much better it is to use the "small" setting and set the crossover point manually. I have KG 5.5 towers for LCR duty, and now that I set the speakers to "small" and changed the crossover point to 70 Hz, it completely transformed the system. I chose that particular crossover point because it was what sounded best in my particular room. Now I have a much more even response and transition from subwoofers to main speakers.