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mustang_flht

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Everything posted by mustang_flht

  1. Hi @jjptkd If you have some time and if you want to have fun with your HF103 and DE120, you can try my network and you can tell me what you think about it and if you like it. 😜
  2. If you still have some courage you can try this one I think it is not bad 😎 Connection approximately 460 Hz and 3800 Hz
  3. Hi guys, it's been a long time since I've been here. My CWIII has evolved a bit, especially in terms of the high midrange filter. I kept the original network on the lower part. Here is the network that I currently use: for me the result is very good and without any aggressiveness. Attention ! Please note that this network works only in bi-amplification, and with amplifiers which each have their own volume control, as the mid / treble part is set at around 105 dB. The bass remains original at around 100 / 102db, so you have to lower the volume of the midrange / treble with amp 2. And of course you need the same elements: K33E for the bass, HF103 + K704/PH-2510 for the midrange and DE120 + Tractrix horn for treble. Network diagram High midrange network: Red strip wire input amplifier 2, Yellow stripe wire HF103 medium, Green stripe wire DE120 high: Note : If you electrically simulate my network you will see that I have voluntarily digened the band between 2kHz and 6kHz, to have a soft sound and a calm transition between HF103 and DE120
  4. Hi @strictlylespaul I use an MC2125 in the bass is a Cary SLi50 in the midrange/treble. I listened to both in mono amplification, if the MC and Cary compete in the midrange/treble it is not at all the same in the bass, The MC is far superior. If you find a McIntosh (certainly an integrated one for you) from the 70s / 80s in good condition and if possible with autotransformers believe me you will be satisfied. For information concerning the CARY: My Cary SLI50 was manufactured in 1996, I bought it new in 1998 and it is in great shape. In 2001 I just changed an interuptor and 2 resistors in preventive by more powerful ones because they seemed a little hot to me: since it works every day without ever having a breakdown. It wears very little the tubes and I respect the heating time well.
  5. 102db, This is the first calculation I did yesterday, but you told me the Pd5VH was too low. Maybe I had dropped too much towards 100/101 and not really 102db. so let's simulate at 105db and if it's too loud it's because the truth is in the middle. At a distance it's more complicated, let's now do 105 db, let your ears get used to it and tell me if we lower it later. In fact as we do not measure, the good setting will perhaps be at 103 or 104db theoretical electric, to make a real suitable acoustics. Yes, I simulated the cutoff around 450Hz with PD5VH and 13ohm on the software. For attenuation, I am using Virtuix software, as it combines impedance seen by the filter and component values. If we start from the calculation of the LPad to have for example 16ohm theoretical, you will need components. here I try to start from the components you have at home and I play on the impedance with a virtually false LPad. With a LPad calculator like http://www.mh-audio.nl/Calculators/att.html - For example with 10ohm in series and 12 ohm in //: we find for a PD5VH impedance of 13ohm, an attenuation of 8.3db and an impedance seen by the filter of 16ohm. - and for DE10, if we take 8ohm of theoretical impedance of the HP, with 1.2ohm in series and 12 // on at 1.94db reduction for an impedance seen by the filter of 6ohm. But since there are so many other parameters: real hp curve, impedance curve, overvoltage, filter slope, ... and since we do not measure what we are doing (which is not good ) that it is better in our case to start from an electrical simulation on the Virtuix software and then to adjust to the listening >>> your opinion The most logical for me is: I simulate on the software, you tell me if it's ok, whether to lower or raise the hp PD5VH and DE10, if the connections are in your ear or if it is necessary to modify: and little by little I adjust the software and you tell me if it's better or worse. Give me your listening impressions, it's important to me. OK for you?
  6. Hi, 77µF will be perfect, in this case you can iron your PD5VH with the 14µF. you can try this filter and tell us if the sound is good. First, test with your 4mH coil, if you find that there is a hole around 300 / 400Hz, you can try a 3 or 2.7mH. Based on your remarks yesterday, I also rectified the resistors of PD5VH and DE10 and the capacitor from DE10 to 3.9 or 4µF Tell us if the sound is OK and if the db levels of each speaker are good
  7. Regarding the 330 Hz: I forgot to specify that this setting is a plan B, because SpeedLimit lives on Reunion Island and he does not have easy access to component vendors. So the bias is to do the tests with what he has at hand and to preserve its 136µF and then to refine and make a connection to 450Hz K33 / K400-PD5VH for the final network.
  8. Hi, Last summer in my garden, a Magnolia Grandiflora flower and the sky of Provence in the background.
  9. Hi @AndreG. Unfortunately, I did a lot of DIY, but I never restored Heresy, so I can't help you there. @Marvel's idea looks great
  10. Here is a solution with about 105 db of output on the 3 speakers
  11. Super 😁 and the sound is better ? And 10 series and 10 // you tried. You will quickly think of letting your ear get used to it 😋 Edit : A question to which you did not answer, please: are you in mono-amplification or in multi-amplification with volume control on each amp?
  12. Here is the curve with the change of capacitors 18.7 and 3.3 µF: this is why the resistors must also be changed To have fun and since it is Sunday and you cannot buy resistors: you can exchange the one you have on your filter: for example 😎
  13. Ok it's Super Attention ! µF et resistors are linked in this study, so if you listen to 18µF without 15 and 6.8ohm it will be slightly different than the simulation: everything is linked 18.7 and 3.3µF it's OK fort the test we will fine tune afterwards OK >> we will fine tune afterwards. And then if we go back a little PD5VH we could perhaps leave it like that. Each change will influence the other, so let's take it slow OK ! Yes I see >>> we will fine tune afterwards >>>> If you want I can simulate the change of 18.7 and 3.3µF capacitors but without changing the resistors of the Lpad: this way you can visualize where you are.
  14. I will answer here on the connection frequencies and on the reductions in db and the new impedences seen by the network On PD5VH with 18µF (I remind you that to make 18µF, it suffices to add in // 4µF to the existing 14µF) and 15 in series and 6.8ohm in // - connection frequency at -6db with 4mH and 136µF = ~ 330Hz - reduction of 12.4db and impedence of 19.8ohm seen by the network for theoretical 16ohm. On DE10 with 3µF and 2.2 in series and 6.8ohm in // - connection frequency at -6db with PD5VH = ~ 4000Hz - reduction of 4.1db and impedence of 5.9ohm seen by the network for theoretical 8ohm. Be careful, this remains theoretical, there may be variations linked to the actual impedance curves (I could discuss more in detail later) and also linked to the response curves of the speakers. That's why SpeedLimit needs to tell me what he likes and what bothers him, and then we'll adjust. Already the strong reduction in PD5VH risks disrupting his listening at the start, he will have to listen calmly, let his ear and his brain get used to it and tell me if he wants us to go back up. little or not the level of the PD5VH. Ditto, same approach for the tweeter OKAY ?
  15. As a preamble, for this project I started from the postulation that SpeedLimit will have to confirm my listening: for example I took 99db for the Kappa 15C + 3db of gain for the Peavy load and / or La Scala: therefore 102db: I will have to tell me if the alignment of the acute midrange is suitable for listening. The current SpeedLimit filter with 102db in the bass My modification : The filter with 102db in the bass, still 4mH and 136µF in filtering and my alignment of the PD5VH: with 18µF and 15 and 6.8ohm Note: the small rise in the treble is voluntary, if it does not please I can reduce It's already a better base to work on, isn't it? 😜
  16. Hi @SpeedLimit I have read all your questions and I will answer them this morning. My feedback in DIY made me adopt this software which makes it possible to obtain and simulate a good result as quickly as possible, which was not the case with other software. Of course it is about the electrical modeling, after it is necessary to adjust, to the measurements if possible and especially to the listening. If you don't take measurements: you will have to tell me: what you hear and where you want me to modify: more midrange, more treble, months of presence on the 2000/5000 tape: often what gives a "hard" sound, etc ... If you have difficulty finding components on your island: the best is perhaps to keep the capacitor of 136µF and to play on the capacitor of the PD5, it will be just 2, 4 or 6 µF to add or remove. The best is to buy a few small capacitors and a few resistors to make couples or triplets: this will save you from buying tons of components and will allow you to do a lot of tests. Afterwards, we agree that eventually we will have to buy capacitors and coils to change the connection to around 450Hz, as Klipsch does with its Horn K400. I will try to copy the theoretical curves of the software to you: you will be able to visualize your current curve and what we are going to try to do: ok? En Francais Salut SpeedLimit J'ai lu toute tes questions et je vais y répondre ce matin. Mon retour d'expérience en DIY m'a fait adopter ce logiciel qui permet d'obtenir et de simuler le plus rapidement un bon résultat, ce qui n'était pas le cas d'autre logiciel. Bien entendu il s'agit de la modélisation électrique, après il faut ajuster, aux mesures si possible et à surtout l'écoute. Si tu ne fais pas de mesures : il faudra que tu me dises : ce que tu entends et là où tu veux que je modifie : plus de médium, plus d'aigu, mois de présence sur la bande 2000/5000 : souvent ce qui donne un son "dur", etc... Si tu as des difficultés à trouver des composants sur ton île : le mieux est peut-être de conserver le condensateur de 136µF et de jouer sur le condensateur de la PD5, ce sera juste 2, 4 ou 6 µF à rajouter ou à enlever. Le mieux est d'acheter quelques petits condensateurs et quelques résistances pour faire des couples ou des triplettes : ce qui t'éviteras d'acheter des tonnes de composants et te permettras de faire de nombreux tests. Après, on est bien d'accord qu'à terme il faudra acheter des condensateurs et/ou selfs pour modifier le raccordement à environ 450Hz, comme le fait Klipsch par rapport à son Horn K400. Je vais essayer de te copier les courbes théoriques du logiciel : tu pourras visualiser ta courbe actuelle et ce que nous allons essayer de faire : ok ?
  17. At home it's beautiful, but I'm bad at photography 🥵 I live near the Mediterranean in Provence. I show you anyway The Saintes Maries de la Mer in the Camargue, we see the Romanesque church of the 9th century. http://www.saintesmaries.com/léglise.html https://www.google.com/search?q=eglise+st+marie+de+la+mer&sxsrf=ALeKk023l3E46u1qOgZotnDnwOKs-FFQyQ:1615671813356&source=lnms&tbm=isch&biw=1366&bih=625
  18. I could explain a little to you 😜 I simulated your filter, there are holes and bumps. For something flatter, here's what you might try first if you have capacitors and resistors. Just change the 136µF capacitor by one of 82µF, 5.6µF by one 3.9µF (or 4UF : 2+2µF for example) on DE10 and the resistors of the Lpad on PD5VH and DE10. CAUTION: respect the + and - phases of the diagram CAUTION 2 : I did all the simulation with PD5VH, that is to say the 16ohm version and around 110db: it is your version, confirm me SpeedLimit CAUTION 3: in my simulation I crossed PD5VH and DE10 at 3800 or 4000Hz. Tell me if you want to cross higher or lower: 3500, 4500, 5000, 5500 ... I will do a simulation again with your new value. (edit : But I believe PD5VH does not go higher than 4100Hz) CAUTION 4: The new Lpad are no longer at 16ohm or 8ohm it is voluntary and adapted to the values of the components in place CAUTION 5: I did this simulation for a mono amplification, for multiamplification we can let the compression work higher in db, but you have to redo everything and have the level adjustment on the amplifiers Then you tell us if you like it, or if you still have to change something: more treble, more or less midrange, etc. Version 2: I kept the 136µF capacitor on the 15C and I went down a little towards 330Hz for the connection of the PD55 with 20µF or 18µF if you prefer at listen. And then I put a little more treble to see if you like it better. If you want even more treble, replace 6.8 ohm in // by 8.2 or 10 ohm: to listen
  19. Hi @Cicerogue For the sound I do not fault the MC2125. it's just a desire to change as I said above and especially because I wanted a DSP and a new amp, autan take an amp with the integrated DSP, hence the Lab Gruppen PDX3000. I use this McIntosh in the bass, I like the breadth of the bass, but I know it performs better in the mid / high range where it excels. A modern amp may give me a little more bass dynamics, certainly at the expense of fullness: it's all about compromise. But as it is, I love the sound of the McIntosh.
  20. Hi @SpeedLimit At the moment I am not selling anything because I am thinking about change. However, if I am a seller I think I will sell the MC2125, but keep the C504. Anyway I have noted your request and I will keep you informed first if I decide to sell the MC2125 😎
  21. You can try to simulate your network with this software, it is very efficient 👍 https://kimmosaunisto.net/Software/Software.html 😎
  22. Note >>>> I specify because I had requests for the McIntosh: I am in France not in the USA. Hi ! klipsch lovers I have owned a McIntosh MC2125 for 21 years now, it is from 1980. I bought it used in late 1999 or early 2000, I can't remember exactly. It works very well and I use it on the bass: Klipsch and K33E filter of my Cornwall III. Up on the midrange and treble I use a CARY SLi50 amp. But I wanted to change to a modern class D amp and especially a DSP and then I tell myself that this 1980 McIntosh has had its day and is good for retirement. I'm afraid that like an old car, it breaks down on the road without telling me. As a replacement I like the Lab Gruppen PDX3000, because the brand is renowned for making very good amp, the amp is guaranteed for 10 years and the DSP controllable by a PC is great: parametric equalizer, adjustable active filter, dynamic equalizer, limiter ... I could connect the Lab Gruppen directly to the K33E with its DSP filter and eliminate the passive bass filter: it would be a good thing I think. I specify that my preamplifier is the McIntosh C504, with a very powerful and very famous MM phono input. So in your opinion I'm right in wanting to swap out that old MC2125 and retire it for a modern, adjustable amp like the Lab Gruppen PDX3000. Or I don't touch anything and I keep my old MC. I know very well that in the end only I will decide what to do: keep the MC or buy the new Lab Gruppen, but what is your opinion 😎
  23. MATERIAL (group of Bill Laswell) Memory Serves This LP are Original CELLULOID, buy in 1981 If you like bass (and other) : buy this vinyle it's a Killer
  24. I'm French so I'm sorry guys but sometimes I don't understand all the subtleties of your remarks 🥵 🤪 Anyway at home, I have had the McIntosh SS MC 2125 for over 20 years (bought in late 1999 or early 2000) and it beat Pioneer M90a Urushi serie (high end and big Pioneer), Audioreseach D100B, Perspective A1 (French amplifier), a small Yamaha integrated amplifier, a Yamaha audio-video amplifier, only Cary's SLI 50 (with good tubes) competes in the midrange / treble, but not in the bass; I always prefer the depth of bass of the MC2125. The M90a of Pioneer Currently I would like to replace it, because after more than 20 years I just wanted to change for something more modern in the bass with a class D amp with dsp and active filter from Lab Gruppen, the possibilities of Lab Gruppen are huge compared to the MC, but I don't know if the sound will be good
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