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Everything posted by naaac

  1. So, I am slowly restoring an old set of Khorns. I just took some measurements of the latest configuration and I'm wondering if this is looking like it's supposed to. Set up: UMIK 1 / REW / about 3 feet off the ground / 3.5 feet from front of Khorn / 1/6 smoothing Woofer: Stephens 103LX (16 Ohm, DCR ~ 10 Ohms) // mounted on slide-in motorboard, with 6"x13" slot Mids: University SA-HF + K-5-J Highs: K77 Tweeter (square magnet) Crossover: I built the ALK Universal crossover with Solen caps and Litz inductors on a k-500-5000 crossover board (1954). I'm using the old autotransformer on the board and the squawker is connected to the -3 and 0 tabs on it. Here are the measurements. Is the woofer response supposed to look like that? It looks like it's not being properly attenuated on the upper end.
  2. Is it because when I took measurements of the three drivers, I disconnected the other two from the crossover?
  3. Well - it looks similar to the response of the K33-E woofer shown on ALK's website for his universal crossover?
  4. Ha - no it didn't. I tried adding a proper 5mH inductor in series with the 1.3mH and now the response looks much better. Updated woofer response in blue.
  5. You were right! I measured it with DATS V2 and it was actually 2.6 mH - even though it was wrapped at 4.9 mH in 1954. Looks like I need to get a bigger inductor and try it out....
  6. I am using a 1.3 mH inductor. I tried it with the old 5 mH inductor from the k-500-5000 crossover, and it didn't change the upper woofer taper.
  7. Greetings, I recently have been gifted with an old mismatched pair of Klipschorns. One of the cabinets has a really funky ordeal going on inside. There is a Pioneer Dual Voice Coil 6 Ohm woofer in the bass cabinet that is wired in parallel, with each set of leads going to a separate LC filter, and then each of the filters is attached to 1/4" input jacks???? Also there's a bunch of styrofoam sound treatment glued in. Also they cut a circle in the other side of the cabinet and closed it with an identical door. What even is this? Why did anyone do this? Also - how do I even connect an amp to test this monstrosity out? Any help / insight would be appreciated. Do I just rip everything out without listening to it and put a Crites in there? Thanks!
  8. Also, I really want to do the closed backs mod - but I can't find any good threads about it - a lot of the photos and links are now dead. I can only find the insane 120 hour Volti Audio versions.
  9. Thanks for the feedback! 1. I have one Pioneer woofer and 1 EV 15WK woofer. Need to figure out if I can find another EV 15 WK or if I should get a pair of K33s 2. Will look for used K-55s, but would like to get them up and running with what I currently have 3. Can I still use A or AA with University Drivers and K5J horns? Should be crossed over at 4,000Hz to 4500Hz vs. 6000Hz? 4. Will verify the tweeters - also have DATS and UMIK1 and will run some sweeps 5. I have 1 top section for the K5Js and one top section for the K400s....thinking of rebuilding a matching pair. They are different heights and sizes.
  10. Agreed - which crossovers should I use for the K55 / K5J / K77 combination while I'm investigating further upgrades? Also, I opened up the other khorn last night and to complicate things even further It has the EV - 15WK woofer...So now I need to decide if I want to try to snag another one of those on ebay.....
  11. Yes, I for sure have 2 Klipschorns, but they are a real grab bag of parts. I have 2 of the K-5-J mid range horns from 1958, and two k77 tweeters - one with the square magnet, one with the circular. Oh, and I also have 2 K400 horns. The only drivers for the midrange that I have are the University Drivers (K55) for the K5Js. As far as crossovers go - I have one AA and one K-500-5000. What's the best strategy going forward - can the University drivers handle the 6k crossovers if I make another AA?