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Triode Pete

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Everything posted by Triode Pete

  1. I run 2A3 SET monoblocks into my K-horns with plenty of headroom. I tried the same amps into Heresy's - no good...not enough power. My brother-in-law has 300B SET monoblocks (8 watts) into his Cornwalls without an issue at all; plenty of headroom & slam. Are you using a pre-amp with gain? If so, a 2A3 SET may be fine... the push-pull 2A3 is a no brainer... Hope this helps, Pete
  2. Thanks guys for all your comments! I (& many others who heard my system) really like the sound coming from my mighty K-horns... Like I originally stated, I have a bit of audio nervosa & just thought there may be an audible improvement in changing out the GE motor run caps with a higher quality "audio" cap... I haven't heard back from VH Audio yet on some "accomodation" pricing for a 2 uF + 13 uF cap combo. I figured if it was "reasonable" to experiment, I would; if not I'm still a very happy camper... Thanks again, Pete
  3. Thanks! I emailed Chris VH for OEM pricing on some caps. I also have my original AA crossovers from my '74 K-horns. Thinking about reusing the Type AA inductors & T2A autoformers (getting rid of the diode protection & the 245 uH inductor) to make up a Type A... I still like my BEC replacement Type A crossovers with the GE motor caps... sounds real good.... Pete
  4. Thanks for your opinion...I currently have the GE motor oil can replacements (12 uf + 1 uf = 13 mf) which sound very good. I guess I'm looking for something better... How expensive are the V-Cap OIMP? I currently have a couple V-Cap TFTF (tin foil) that I'll be experimenting in my Tannoy 12" dual concentric crossovers... All of my observations will be from a Triode Perspective. Thanks, Pete
  5. Thanks for the link!!! See the verdict on the Duelunds... best there is... I guess... Had an audiophile friend over for a listen yesterday; he was an ultra-fi manufacturer of audiophile stands for a long time and he gets "manufacturer's discounts". He just purchased 6 Duelund components to upgrade his crossovers on his "Analysis" speakers (ultra-fi ribbons based upon Apogee designs that are built in Greece). He paid $5K USD for 2 capacitors, 2 resistors & 2 wire inductors... 60% off retail pricing!!! $5,000 to upgrade his crossovers! BTW, he heard my K-horns yesterday & said... "I wish I kept my Klipschorns with the center channel Belle"... [Y] Pete
  6. I'd like to keep the drivers stock, especially my alnico magnet tweeter... my system sounds great with the Crites Type A with GE caps; I just have an itch to try better caps to see what type of change I'll hear. From some crazy audiophile friends of mine, they swear by Duelund caps for loudspeaker crossovers... BIG BUCKS, though...
  7. I have a bit of Audio Nervosa lately and wondered if there would be any Sonic BENEFIT in changing out the caps (2 microFarad & 13 microFarad) on my Type A crossovers on my 1974 K-horns. The crossovers are Bob Crites replacement Type A's with the older GE brand motor caps (oil filled?) with a tolerance of +/- 6%. I know Bob C uses Sonicaps now... Has anyone tried any of the expensive exotic caps (Duelunds / V-Caps, etc.)? What's your experiences on the Type A X-over? Thanks in advance, Pete
  8. Simply awesome looking system!!! And I bet it sounds better than it looks!!! One day, hopefully one day!!! Congrats! Pete
  9. Same thing happened to me in my Klipschorn room. Changed out some nice cloth (sound absorbing) furniture for some all leather furniture. The K-horns became very lively & "reflective" in the room. When loaded with people (or some sound panels (Echobusters)), the legendary sound was back! Live & learn! Everything, I repeat EVERYTHING, makes a difference... some extremely subtle, some not so... My $0.02, Pete
  10. Absolutely!! Can't hear any tube rush or hum whatsoever with my 2A3 amps (AC on the filaments) & tube preamp as well as tube DAC... My good friend who built my tube amps & pre-amp has an extensive collection of old antique tube radios that are in absolutely mint condition. He services all his gear himself and learned quite a few secrets (grounding techniques, etc.) of establishing incredibly quiet gear at idle along with a scary "jump" factor (DYNAMICS) when needed. Whoever says it can't be done is mistaken! In fact, my current set-up is quieter than my old SS McIntosh preamp & amplifier combo (& a lot more musical as well)! My $0.02, Pete
  11. Does the CT-125 tweeters make a large difference in sound. Is their frequency extended compared to the original design? I have a pair of original '74 K-horns as well (mint Rosewood behemoths). thanks, Pete
  12. Beautiful, simply beautiful!!!! Anyone have a single Rosewood Belle they'd like to get rid of???
  13. WFUV...90.7 FM... Fordham's University Voice... in da Bronx
  14. All of the wood bodied Grado's look similar; I have a Sonata as well & it's a great cartridge for the money. It has a very high output, so you won't need a MC step-up device. Grado's mate very well with VPI & Well Tempered turntables. Pete
  15. Tube compliment from L-R - Mullard 5AR4, Sylvania JAN 6SN7W input, Ken-Rad JAN VT-231 (6SN7GT smoked glass), Western Electric 300B.
  16. Having a bit trouble posting a jpeg file...hopefully this file attaches & works....
  17. WIth revealing speaker systems like Klipsch Heritage, it's pretty easy to discern the differences between output tubes and driver tubes as well, especially on Single-Ended-Triode amplifiers. The mesh plate varieties (IMHO) that are made in China, sound "slow, sluggish and very lush (in a colored sense)". This includes the Sophia Electric 2A3 & 300B varieties that I "briefly" owned. If you think (or on your system) that the Klipsch Heritage sound "bright", you probably would like the mesh plates for a more romantic sound. I currently own WE 300B's, KR 300B's, RCA 50's, Sylvania VT-10A's as well as Philco 10's. These all can be substituted on my SET 300B-50-10 convertible monoblocks. It's real easy, even for non-audiophiles, to hear the differences in the output tubes. For driver & input tubes, it's slightly more challenging to discern sonic differences, but you can actually measure different hum levels (mV's) with different input & driver tubes as well as microphonics... I have a lot more difficulty in hearing differences between speaker cables, interconnects and power cords, especially power cords. I don't think I'd pass a double-blind test when it comes to "wires". My $0.02, Pete
  18. I've heard them side by side and the Western Electric is much better in tonality, musciality, all around. However, if your budget is limited, the EH's are a "best buy". It's a tube I could live with. In fact, I like them better than the TJ meshplate. The TJ meshplate is "mushy" sounding, a very colored tubey, romantic sound. They probably sound good on very bright Lowther single driver speakers. A cure for overly bright speakers. If you have a choice, buy "American" 300B's and 2A3's, 50's & 45's (the last three are vintage). They're the real deal (the standard) where the rest of the world attempts to copy. My $0.02, Pete
  19. I would look into the Grado line of cartridges. They mate well with Harry Weisfeld's line of VPI turntables made in NJ. Grado's cartridges are made in Brooklyn. When Harry was making his VPI's in Queens, I believe he highly recommended Grado as a synergystic cartridge. I have heard a Grado Sonata (~$500) on A VPI Aries set-up...so good I purchased a Grado Sonata (4 mV output) for my Well Tempered TT. Female vocals do not get any better. The Grado's sound like music not like hi-fi effects. Good Luck & have fun, Pete
  20. Your Sony will play multichannel SACD's as long as there is a 2 channel mix on it. Your'e S9000ES will not play most CD-R's & CD-RW's. Your'e 9000ES is a dedicated 2 channel SACD-CD-DVD player. Certain SACD/CD hybrid discs will not play the SACD portion. ABKCO Records (Rolling Stones, etc) have a tendency for the 9000ES to read only the CD layer. The 9000ES is a great machine but it can become "quirky" at times. Enjoy, Pete
  21. Hi, My personal opinion is to get the newest CD player out there! Digital playback systems have advanced considerably lately. Even the cheapo, brand new Sony's w/ SACD capability are amazing. Don't buy anything too old. Your'e better off buying a new player and simply tweaking it (decent cables, vibration isolation, etc.) yourself. My $0.02, Pete
  22. Those K-horns were originally Birch (BR - Birch Raw) & have been refinished with a rosewood veneer. Rosewood Models of that vintage would be (RO - Rosewood Oiled) and later K-horn Rosewood models would be laquered, (RL - Rosewood Laquered). IMHO, those refinished decorator (KD - Klipschorn Decorator model) speakers are worth ~ $1K. Happy Friday, Pete
  23. I received a pair of "original-designed" Type A crossovers from Bob Crites (B&K sound) for my 1974 K-horns with Type AA crossovers. The sound is fantastic, build quality is excellent. A product Paul W. Klipsch would be proud of! If you use solid state (sand), get the AA's. If you use tube amps, get the Type A. You will get an improvement in sound when switching to newer crossovers! My $0.02, Pete
  24. To all forum members: Since I just recently sold my set of Heresy speakers, I have a pair of custom solid hardwood Red Oak speaker stands available for a forum member. The specs are as follows; 24" high 11.25" x 12" base with adjustable Carpet Sure Points cones (purchased at an audio store) 9.25" x 12" top section (where the speaker rests on) Doweled, screwed & glued (no visible screw holes). Beveled & routered (roman ogee) edges. Hand-rubbed Golden Oak finish. I hand crafted these myself & invested over $100 in materials alone for the stands. Looking for ~ $50 or B.O. The stand on the RHS of the picture is upside down to illustrate the Carpet SurePoints (cones). These work great on Heresy's & would work well with other speakers. Anyone interested, let me know. For convenience, I would prefer a local sale in the NYC/Long Island metropolitan area. Have fun & enjoy, Pete
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