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Ol_mcdonald

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About Ol_mcdonald

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  1. Old school 2 channel guy here, in the process of building a new home with a listening room and have a few questions about outlets, sequencers and triggers and how to properly connect them. Not the sophisticated system some own/discuss/revere here, but I don't have the budget for esoteric equipment either. Just the same, I am looking forward to re-assembling my system with some new components when I get in there and have high hopes! I have one 120v 15 amp/14 ga dedicated circuit, and one 20 amp/12 ga dedicated circuit. I plan on using 15 and 20 amp hospital grade isolated ground outlets. My system consists of a Pyle power conditioner with 8 outlets, Emotiva preamp, DBX driverack/PA2 crossover, CD/Blu-Ray/4K player, three Crown power Amplifiers (1/sub, 1 LF, 1/MF, HF) with my Klipschorns being bi-amped using ALK crossovers. Two of the three power amplifiers will never see anywhere near their output power driving the K horns, but the third driving my sub may require a little more amperage from the power source if/when the sub is driven hard. So here are my questions; My amplifiers have a connection for trigger, I have never used triggers and not 100% certain how they work...can or do they work with a sequencer? Do they "daisy chain" to my pre-amp or??? Should my amps even be plugged into the sequencer since it will experience a current draw from all the other components connected to it? Do I plug my "low demand" amps into sequencer and the sub amp in the 20 amp outlet? Just not sure of the optimum way to connect everything electrically! Thanks in advance for your input!
  2. You are welcome. It is a good video explaining in fairly simple terms the difference between balanced and unbalanced connections. I was speaking of the .0002 difference in THD, is imperceptible. If say a person has a hum or noise problem from a wad of cables crossed up every which way or a long mic cable, balanced interconnects will make a distinguishable difference, and yes may possibly provide better specs you could only observe under laboratory conditions. Oh, and high dollar fancy cables are a rip, buy some decent cable in the 10-20 buck range for a pair. Don't be sucked in by the 500 buck single cable that claims to be superior, it's wire. Save your money for something else.
  3. YAY! Somebody gets it! The performance "gains" mentioned would be imperceptible.
  4. Sorry for the late reply, holidays ya know. I have a new Driverack in storage awaiting a new homes completion, but it seemed to be what I needed at a very reasonable price. I love your inputs with the speakON connections. I modified my K horns with Neutrik speakOn in a similar fashion; Input routed to LF inside woofer bin, with output to MF/HF tops. I can't wait to get my hands on it and finally hear this setup in my new room. I also bought mine on amazon at about the same price, a bargain considering all it does. Thanks for the reply, I haven't seen much mention of the dbx here and was curious if I was the only one , I have always been a fan of their products and have owned several over the years, companders I used with tape, 20/20 EQ, program route selectors, 4bx etc. Always performed well and reasonably priced in a segment where there are many overpriced products for my budget.
  5. The four holes are mounting holes for the terminal block. Since the screws pass thru the enclosure securing it (and passing signal to the inside) the holes weren't needed.
  6. Keep the fuses, they are cheap insurance against damaged drivers and no noticeable sound degradation.
  7. Sometimes they are "sunken" into the plywood just out of sight, having been overtightened. When you find them, use a #2 phillips bit and press down firmly and slightly turn the bit to ensure it is engaged in the screw head to prevent damage to it. Back it out slowly and don't allow the bit to slip inside the head causing damage. I've seen guys strip the head out so bad removing it requires some degree of skill.
  8. False corners? I have full corners on the walls surrounding the Khorns...10" of steel reinforced poured concrete and 2x4 insulated walls with 5/8" sheetrock. I am not referring to false corners, I am talking about wings attached to the speaker to enhance the bottom end. There is a photo here somewhere, maybe the Pilgramage...
  9. I have seen mentioned in random posts "wings" for the Klipschorn. Can someone here direct me to a link or thread that contains more info. I have a pair of '77 vintage Khorns and soon to be moving them into a new home with my first listening room. Thought about the possibility of adding the if there is sound agreement it is a worthy project. I can live with them easy enough "as is" but thought it might be a good time to work on em if it's worth the effort. Thanks in advance!
  10. Eventually saw the reference to Dope from Hope from 2/68. I'm right in the Golden Mean!
  11. Not my room, that is dtel's actually. I anticipate placing my sub between the K horns.
  12. Thanks for the welcome, been browsing the forum for a while albeit infrequently but enjoy it very much. All well on the farm if I could just give this builder a swift kick in the.... Anyway, I did not realize the thread was as old as it is until now, thanks for responding, and please chime in with comments or suggestions, I'm just an audio nut with no practical engineering or design experience and would like to forego any really obvious stupid decisions. My first dedicated listening room, it will be totally below grade, inside 9.5" thick, steel reinforced concrete walls covered with 2x4s 16" OC with 5/8 sheetrock (I like the 3/4" plywood idea too), concrete slab floor, W2W carpet, the room has no windows and is a perfect rectangle. I will have my electronics installed in a rack within a wall with access from the rear via a "closet" with a 3'0" door, which will be within a mechanical room. I have a vintage pair of Klipschorns purchased from singer/songwriter John Prine back in the 70's. I have a sub I built from scratch (18"/11cft ported) recently for my new installation, which brings up another subject..do I set it directly on the slab floor (possibly a subject for a different thread or revive another old one)? I plan to bi amp my K-horns (just for fun, I know it isn't necessary) and use ALK crossovers for the MF/HF, all driven by Crown amps. Thanks JJK for the wall treatment info and mirror trick, I had wondered how to determine the placement of any sort of diffusers (I reflect to Dope again) or absorbent panels, good info. Thanks to all.
  13. Roger has it right. I am building currently also. My room will be 16 x 26 with 9'6" ceilings. Paul's listening room dimensions if memory serves me right....also read in Dope from Hope years ago.
  14. Thanks! Just did mine....bi-amped. Any market for upgrades to speakON?
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