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Ol_mcdonald

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About Ol_mcdonald

  • Birthday April 5

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Nashville, TN
  • Interests
    Anything high performance, cars, guns, audio.
  • My System
    1977 Klipschorns, Bi amped,
    ALK mf/hf crossovers
    Dave Harris elliptrac horns with Faital 2” drivers
    Dave A’s smahl with B&C DE 120 drivers.
    DIY sub, 9 cu ft ported w/18” driver
    Crown d 75
    Crown xli1500
    Crown xls2502
    dbx Driverack PA2 2x6 dsp
    Emotive MC700 pre-pro
    Sony UBP X800 CD/BluRay player
    Topping D90se DAC.

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  1. Cost of running transmission lines underground as opposed to overhead is cost prohibitive. all my wiring is in wall about 12” above concrete floor level (and who places speakers or wire on damp concrete? 🤷) Electrical all comes from overhead so none in proximity to my speaker wires. Cable lifters are snake oil.
  2. I’m using the PA2, it is 48khz sampling. It fit my needs well and has performed flawlessly…a lot less expensive than the Xillica everybody seems to love, and perhaps a less steep learning curve, and not Mac friendly. I think the Venue 360 is very similar to the PA2 with more inputs and same number of outputs…no advantage over the PA2, for me anyway. It is dead quiet so far as I can tell and the control app is excellent accommodating all features and adjustments from your LP.
  3. I recently purchased an elliptrac horn kit from Dave Harris and coupled it with a Faital HF200 2” driver and Dave Ault’s smahl horn/lens and B&C DE120 drivers. Stock K-33’s in the bottom. I’m considering the Crites woofers atm. I CNC cut a new motorboard and made two new sides retaining the top and bottom of the “top hat”. The motorboard and sides are faced with polished finish black laminate. The left and right sides of the motor boards are laminated with copper. I’m using a bi amp set up with a DBX driverack 2x6 feeding my sub, the mains woofers and ALK crossovers for the mf/Hf. Amps are all Crown, XLS2502, XLI1800 and D-75. the sound is amazing to me, better high frequency and wider soundstage. I’ve alway loved my K horns and this is such an improvement in sound and can be returned to original form if/when desired.
  4. I should have spoken to you first, thanks for the response! Dave Harris' horn piqued my DIY curiosity. Looks like its Faital Pro HF200 for me. Its an easy set up and easy to undo if I don't like the results. Stop by and check it out if you'd like next time your over this way. Checking part availability.😀
  5. I mis-typed...I meant the 462, 2". Do they even make a 426?? 🤣I Ive never been afraid of a little work...lol
  6. The specs of the DCX426 claims a range of 300hz`-18khz.
  7. So I was looking at the DCX 462 (2”) drivers, they list a crossover for use with the 464 but not the 462. In the description of the ME464 it does not mention the DCX 462. Does it use the same ME 464 crossover? It’s certainly an interesting driver, and a spendy one too. Your talking about nearly $2000.00 with crossovers.
  8. Now you’ve got me thinking…it would be considerably easier, just build a new motorboard for my existing upper cabinet. Nothing ventured, nothing gained! If I don’t like it I can still build a new cabinet for the MF/HF. Do you plan on using DSP and bi amping your future two way setup? That’s the way I will go to test drive it if I go that way and I am so inclined.
  9. It would be easier…just can’t bring myself to do it.🤷
  10. Looking at the B&C 750 and seeing conflicting specs, one page says 500-18k Frequency response and another says 1k-18k. Looks like its way down at 500 hz (their graph is fuzzy) maybe 6-9 db.(?) If the elliptrac horn has an Fs of 310/320 hz (I have read both) and the bass bin of the K horn extends to 400 how are these going to pair? Great price on the 750, but the DE50 seems to go lower and have a smoother response. Where do you crossover your 750 and does it extend low enough to properly mesh with the K horn bass bin?
  11. Thank you! I used a wood rasp that is flat on one side and rounded on the other to rough it in, then used 80 grit to get it smoothed out to the point I could work my way up to about 220. Then I used Zinnser 123 primer to seal it and give me a sandable finish to prep for paint. I sanded it to about 220 or 60 micron whichever was in reach. The paint I used was Rustoleum rattle can “Appliance Epoxy”. It cures hard and provides a good finish. I sprayed them with one good coat and let it cure for a week. I then wet sanded them with 1000 grit paper to smooth out the first coat and remove one small sag I had and any jetsam or flotsam that was in the air when I sprayed the outdoors at home. I took them after wet sanding to a friends spray booth to spray the final coat. They aren’t perfect but they will likely exist behind grille cloth anyway.
  12. Sorry , I left that out, KLIPSCHORNS! I’ll take a look at those drivers. Thanks!
  13. I believe I’m going to stay three way since I already have the smahl’s. It is interesting though in that I could use my existing upper cabinet with only a new motorboard.
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