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zeron's Achievements


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  1. I have a Klipsch SW12 which has 6 db boost at 30 Hz. Many have criticized it for being boomy. I'm thinking of buying a new sub and R-112SW is one of candidates. I mainly listen to music, so I want to buy a subwoofer that doesn't add boost at its low frequency region.
  2. A possibility: https://www.parts-express.com/yung-sd200-6-200w-class-d-subwoofer-plate-amplifier-module-with-6-db-at-35-hz--301-506 Power rating will be likely to be about 100W into 8 ohm, similar to the amp from SW10 you had been using. What you want to make sure is that the replacement amp will fit into your current cabinet. Dimensions: 8" W x 7" H x 2-1/4" D; Cutout dimensions: 7-1/4" W x 6-1/4" H. SW12 has +6db boost at 30 Hz. I don't know if SW8 or SW10 has +6db boost around 30 Hz. IF you had wished you had tighter base, you may want to select an amp without boost. There are many plate amps at parts express: https://www.parts-express.com/search.aspx?N=4294967118&No=16&Nrpp=16&Nrs=collection()%2Frecord[endeca%3Amatches(.%2C"P_PortalID"%2C"1")+and+endeca%3Amatches(.%2C"P_Searchable"%2C"1")]&Ntt=plate*+amplifier*&PortalID=1 Try "plate amplifier" to do search. This may be good, too: https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sa100-100w-subwoofer-plate-amplifier--300-802 100W into 8 ohm. But probably no boost. However, you may have to rotate it 90 degrees to fit into the cabinet, and then the fins on the heatsink may not radiate heat as well as it can in its normal orientation. I haven't tried any of these plate amps. I'm just suggesting possibilities.
  3. I'm considering to buy a new active sub. I'm interested in knowing how much life span I can expect from today's decent active subs because most of today's subs are powered by D-class amps and I've read that due to their design, they are not expected to last as much as A/B amps. (Is this true?) If today's active subs are expected to last only a few years (2+ years), I don't think I want to invest too much in one.
  4. 45 Hz. pure sine wave 40 Hz. pure sine wave 35 Hz. pure sine wave 30 Hz. pure sine wave (All of these are one tone lasting 30 seconds or more, no wobbling or sweeping.) I have an old Klipsche SW12. It produces slightly fluttering sounds when it plays pure sine waves at or below 42 HZ. I wonder if this is due to the inherent limitation of the SW12 or mine is not functioning 100% perfectly. I created a test CD by burning sample sine waves I obtained online. I checked for the files integrity by looking at the wave form in Audacity. Here us a picture of the 30 Hz. pure sine wave my subwoofer seems to have difficulty reproducing without fluttering:
  5. I found this picture at another site. May give you a hint as to where one end of the green wire goes: https://images.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageHandler/trim/620/378/products/2017/37/958/g958MAC7200-F.jpg I'll definitely take care of the loose end of the green wire. If you want to repair the amp, the following will be a great help: https://www.audiolabga.com/pdf/SW12-15 I.pdf As to getting parts, I use AliExpress. If you're not in a hurry, their prices are uneatable. If you want parts fast, you could try the following: https://www.newark.com/ https://www.mouser.com/
  6. Update: The seller of the driver just responded to my question what would be the easiest way to connect the old speaker wires. His answer: "You should be able to slide those connectors right onto the subwoofer binding post." I ordered one. I'll see if he is right. Thank you all for your suggestions. Good to know I have a few options.
  7. Thank you for this link, jason str. I think I can make short (~2") patch cables by crimping/soldering these connectors on one side and leaving the other side bare.
  8. The wires coming out of my old amp have these spade type connectors that attach to the original woofer I have. The connectors on the original woofer look like the connectors in the woofer below: If I could, I want to retain the original connectivity between the old amp and the original woofer because I may eventually decide to keep using the original woofer.
  9. I'm thinking of connecting a subwoofer driver like this and the endings of two speaker wires like the following: Note: The driver's manufacturer says the unit has "Large binding posts for heavy gauge wire." Are there adapters/plugs with or without speaker wires that can go between these two types of connectors?
  10. You're very welcome. While there seem to be very knowledgeable people at the two sites I suggested, they have rather strict rules for types of posts acceptable there. You might want to re-iterate what you want (like the type of equipment or circuit) at the end of your post as a question or a set of questions as clearly and directly as possible. Good luck.
  11. Update: It appears that I'll have to change R87, R88, R89, and R90 to 7W 750 ohm or 5W with resistance higher than 750 ohm. The service manual's part list specifies that they be 5W 1.5K ohm while the schematic indicates 5W 750 ohm. The originals are all 5W 750 ohm, and apparently they've been getting very hot, maybe too hot to be stable and functioning properly.
  12. " What I am about to describe may sound a little crazy or abstract, but I am in need of help, as I was told technicians and engineers post in these forums. Please bare with me." You might want to ask your questions at the following sites: http://sound.stackexchange.com/ http://electronics.stackexchange.com/
  13. The manual for my SW-12 says the same thing. I had been using a 3 to 2 prong adapter for my SW-12 until recently myself. It helps to eliminate or reduce severe hums but apparently takes away protection against some electrical surges and shorts. (I wonder if the adapter had something to do with the noises I started hearing from my SW-12. I noticed them for the first time on a stormy day.)
  14. Didn't you write that you had tried two other subs at the same location and had no noise problems?
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