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albert

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Everything posted by albert

  1. Yes that's the today's trend. I've noticed many manufactures on various type of consumer products with three year warranties have reduced them to one year. It's becoming one may need to replace products purchased for the home every 1 to 3 years. years ago the trend was to produce products to last many were designed to last a lifetime and could be affordably repaired if they broke. Though many products have many new features and improvements. The general quality of products has significantly gone down. The trend use to be to design and build products to last at least 30 years, or which many did last 30 years and longer. I use to have a Cold Spot refrigerator that was still running like new after 50 years. These days your lucky to have a frig or freezer that lasts 10 years, most of their ext. warranties are for 5 years.
  2. After looking around at new opened box and used receivers and AVR's I decided on a Integra Refurb from accessories4less.com. It really has more than I will ever need as the only thing I have ever connected to a receiver is a TV and monitor. It's an Integra DTR-20.3 which is 90 watts there is also a DTR-20.4 that's 80 watts for the same price which has more hdmi ports. https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/intdtr203/integra-dtr-20.3-5.2-ch-x-90-watts-thx-networking-a/v-receiver/1.html I almost purchased on eBay what the seller listed as a new open box Onkyo TX-1050 which sold for around $70.00. The seller said he found it left in a warehouse they moved into and couldn't really verify it's age and use only that it appeared to be unused in it's original packaging. The TX-1050 receiver first came out eleven years ago. Also I previously purchased what is listed as a new Onkyo refurb with 90 days left on it's warranty from eBay but later found there is no such thing as a Onkyo refurb that can be sold on eBay as only two online stores are allowed to sell Onkyo and Integra refurbs. Even stores that sell new Onkyo and Integra products aren't able to sell their rebfurbs. So it was returned for a refund. If you see a AVR listed on eBay as a Manufacture refurb take a closer look as some manufactures have strict policies and only allow certain stores and outlets to sell their refurbs. If sold from elsewhere the manu. warranty becomes void. http://www.integrahometheater.com/outlet.php Also Onkyo and Integra refurb warranties aren't transferable so if you try to sell a new or used refurb it will have no manu. warranty. http://www.integrahometheater.com/warranty.php Someone here recommeded the 40.3 which is similar to the 20.3 with addtional features Dolby Volume Dolby Pro Logic IIz (Front High Channels) Simultaneous or Independently Active HDMI outputs Front Panel HDMI Input S-Video Inputs / Output(s) Phono Input Front Panel A/V Input Multi-Channel Input One thing I noticed about these receivers is they have have a PC IN, meaning you can have your PC's VGA up converted to HDMI.
  3. I've found a couple of what appears to be good deals on "new" open box Onkyo's. TX-SR353 and TX-8050. The TX-8050 is on a bidding auction so I'm not certain what it will go for while the TX-SR353 is on a Buy-it-now auction. To have a valid warranty I believe an Onkyo requires to be purchased from an Onkyo authorized dealer. But their brand new unused so should have more years of use left compared to a pre-owned. The TX-8050 an older model doesn't have HDMI but does have pre-outs for a subwoofer and amp. Also comes with Ethernet to connect to Internet radio, etc. The TX-SR353 has support for HDMI in/out but no support for Ethernet.
  4. I'm not certain what's going on with my current Denon AVR-1612 that I disconnected for a few days. After reconnecting I'm getting audio from both the Aux. and DVD audio inputs. I also connected the PC via HDMI and which is also producing audio . I'll allow it to run for a few days to see if there's a problem with circuits heating up. I haven't had the AVR-1612 apart yet. There should be several boards that are inter connected via flat cabling such as an amp board, a board that controls the audio and possibly another board with micro relay switches that switches audio output using micro relays. I would need to take the AVR-1612 a part to discern it's basic design. The service manual for the AVR-1612 can be found online for $10.00 - $15.00. There should also be some sort of diagnostics that outputs error codes. I think if the problem keeps occurring with the audio working intermittently I'll replace the receiver and possibly attempt to repair the AVR-1612 as there are methods to diagnose audio output problems. The rest of the receiver working, it seems the only problem is or was with the audio output. I seem to remember some loud popping noises, but never really payed attention and looked into it. Perhaps somethings going out on one of the circuit boards and the audio output will be short lived.
  5. It's from an ebay seller. Tested good, but reported some sort of static on an Internet connection and wasn't able to connect. Not certain what the seller means my static. https://www.ebay.com/itm/192418134148?ViewItem=&item=192418134148 Continuous average power output of 110 watts* per channel, min., at 8 ohms, from 20 Hz to 20 000 Hz with no more than 0.08 %** total harmonic distortion. Continuous Power Output (20 Hz to 20 kHz, 8 Ω, 0.08 %) Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 W + 110 W Center . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 W Surround . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 W + 110 W Surround back (Front height/wide). . 110 W + 110 W Continuous Power Output (1 kHz, 6 Ω, 1.0 %) Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150 W + 150 W Center . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150 W Surround . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150 W + 150 W Surround back (Front height/wide). . 150 W + 150 W Total Harmonic Distortion . . . . 0.06 % (20 Hz to 20 kHz, 8 Ω, 100 W + 100 W) Guaranteed speaker impedance . . 16 Ω to 8 Ω, less than 8 Ω to 6 Ω (setting required ---------------------------------------------------------- I found some other Pioneers for less however their specs show low THD 0.05 at 1kHz, so it's more important to find the THD between 20 and 20,000 Hz? e.g. One Pioneer specs show a 0.2 % THD between 20 and 20,000 Hz. and .05 % at 1 kHz. So I can assume this isn't a very good THD percentage? I should be looking for 0.09 % or less at 20-20,000 Hz? Continuous average power output of 80 watts* per channel, min., at 8 ohms, from 20 Hz to 20 000 Hz with no more than 0.2 %** total harmonic distortion. Front (stereo) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80 W + 80 W Power output (1 kHz, 8 Ω, 0.05 %) . . . . . . 110 W per channel Guaranteed speaker impedance FRONT:A, B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Ω to 16 Ω FRONT:A+B. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Ω to 16 Ω SURROUND, CENTER . . . . . . . . . 6 Ω to 16 Ω * Measured pursuant to the Federal Trade Commission’s Trade Regulation rule on Power Output Claims for Amplifiers ** Measured by Audio Spectrum Analyzer --------------------------------------------------------------- The Entegra DTR-40.3 specs show at 1 kHz THD of .1 % - 6ohm and .7 % - 8ohm Rated Output Power All channels: (North American) 110 watts minimum continuous power per channel, 8 ohm loads, 2 channels driven from 20 Hz to 20 kHz, with a maximum total harmonic distortion of 0.08% (FTC) 130 watts minimum continuous power per channel, 6 ohm loads, 2 channels driven at 1 kHz, with a maximum total harmonic distortion of 0.1% (FTC) 120 watts minimum continuous power per channel, 8 ohm loads, 2 channels driven at 1 kHz, with a maximum total harmonic distortion of 0.7% (FTC)
  6. This one seems to have some good specs, only a $150.00 with shipping PIONEER ELITE VSX-32 https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Unassigned-Content/Manuals/VSX-32+OPERATING+INSTRUCTIONS+apr+10 I'm just looking for any viable options and to learn more about what's else is available in my price range. I prefer to try to not purchase things in haste as i've done many times in the past. After looking at other receivers potentially will be more satisfied and less likely regret making a decision.
  7. I found this one that looks interesting. I'm not certain if it was part of a home theatre or not. Has subwoofer support. PIONEER ELITE VSX-32
  8. Ok well perhaps you're correct. You're nearly have me talked into getting one. I see several Integra DTR-40.3 for parts and not working so they do break down at least once in a while. There is a used one on eBay for $149.95 + 29.95 shipping or a best offer. It's just If I spend $233.98 with shipping for the DTR-40.3 I would like it to last from 5 to 10 years min. I would say 10 years min. but than may be too much to expect these days. The website shows a 2 year warranty. Two year warranties you often need to expect perhaps the product will last three years and be required to be replaced on average every three years. Also the warranty for INTEGRA products is only valid for authorized dealers of factory certified pre-owned products. The owner is responsible for any shipping charges. "All shipping arrangements must be made by you and all shipping charges and insurance must be fully prepaid " World Wide Stereo (Outlet dealer – for factory certified pre-owned products) Accessories4Less (Outlet dealer – for factory certified pre-owned products) http://www.integrahometheater.com/warranty.php
  9. Well yes mass production does have it's own set of values. Whether those values have any merit is another topic of discussion. I did come across another older unit whose specs I'm still going over. Harman Kardon HK 3470 https://www.cnet.com/products/harman-kardon-hk-3470/specs/ Approx. the same price as the ONKYO TX-8020 However I believe it lacks adjustable cross-over frequencies which may be set to 80. The Denon AVR-485 with shipping is just under $50.00 apparently an active subwoofer can be connected. Specs do show it supports subwoofer cross-over switching with a choice of 8 cross-over frequencies 40/60/80/100/120/150/200/250Hz. Allowing more accurately match performance characteristics of the subwoofer to the main speaker system.
  10. Ok will seriously consider. I'm just being cautious as I've purchased many new products in the past that have flaked out on me. Some just after the manufacture's warranty expired. Many manufactures of some types of products have reduced their 3 and 5 year warranties to 1 year. The problem with many products is their designed to be replaced as the marketing has changed over the years. Not that many years ago products were designed to last ~30+ years and also designed to be affordably repaired. There were repair people and shops all over the place, that would send a repair person to you home at an affordable repair rate. Sure some manufactures may still do this today if your product's warranty hasn't expired. Paying them to repair a product often cost approx. the same or more than a new one. I guess I'm tired of continually replacing products, many of which may have new features but have poor build quality and quality control. What good are these new features and specifications if your product won't turn on, produce sound, unreliable, etc. I don't think many of the companies would still be in business if it weren't for the fact a certain percentage or perhaps most of their products fail and require replacement. Though there may be exceptions most products aren't really designed to last very long, their basically designed to be replaced.
  11. Well ok I'm just going done the list from the lowest price. If I'm going to spend around 150 dollars another 50+ bucks isn't going to make that big of a difference so perhaps I should set my low price at $130.00 and look for receivers between $130.00 and ~$200.00 and then if at $200.00 whats another 50 bucks perhaps should set a high limit at $250.00? It's sort of a slow process as each receiver I need to search online for it's specifications. As I stated I don't think I'm going to add many speakers perhaps a couple more and don't plan on connecting other equipment other than a PC and LCD monitor. I'm still working my way up from the lowest price used receivers. Currently the only sound output I have is from my Nec V323-2 monitor speakers that are only a few watts. The Denon AVR is sitting here on the floor as dead weight. I suppose it can be used for spare parts? Though I've repaired some types of electronics in the past. If it's only a matter of replacing a board related to audio I may be able to repair it. I would really require a repair manual with detail instructions and schematics as I've never worked on AVR's and audio receivers.
  12. I'm slowly looking around as I need to find and lookup specifications for most of the used receivers. I came across this one at a low price however I'm uncertain if it's specifications, Mitsubishi M-VR400 AV I also came across a DENON AVR-485 that is (20 Hz to 20 kHz) 75 watts per channel at 8 ohms, .08 THD and 110 watts at 6 ohms, . 7 THD Has a subwoofer pre-out that appears is for an active subwoofer. The AVR-485 supports subwoofer cross-over switching with a choice of 8 cross-over frequencies 40/60/80/100/120/150/200/250Hz.This lets you more accurately match performance characteristics of the subwoofer to the main speaker system. Frequency response 10 Hz - 100 kHz (+1, -3 dB) Signal to noise ration 98 dB Subwoofer - 1.2 V/10 kohms CDR/Tape, VCR 200 mV/47 kohms Tone control - treble +/- 10 dB at 10 kHz Base +/- 10 dB at 100 kHz http://www.specsserver.com/CACHE/FILE3953.PDF
  13. Well I took your advice and requested the seller cancel the ebay transaction for the Sony STR-K790. If able to cancel I'm going to look for another rec. with a subwoofer pre-out. Possibly with better specifications. However I would prefer a min of 75 watts, perhaps 100+ watts per channel will allow for some expansion. There are some used Pioneer SX series and also Yamaha, etc. however their costs are significantly more, in the price range of the recommended Onkyo TX-8020 perhaps more.
  14. Ok I've posed some questions on the AVS and Sony forums to determine if anyone may have some knowledge of the Sony STR-K790. From what I've discerned the STR-K790 was original part of a Sony Theatre systems HT-DDW790 and HT-DDW795 From the users manual for the HT-DDW790 I could not find any information about disabling the K790's subwoofer which uses a passive Sony SS-WP700 subwoofer. There is reference to it's subwoofer while in 2 channel mode Reference power output for front, center, surround speakers and subwoofer. Depending on the sound field settings and the source there may be no sound output. 2 Channel Stereo Mode Receiver outputs sound from left/right speakers and subwoofer. The receiver's base redirection circuitry will be activated. The front channel bass frequencies will be output from the sub woofer. There is also reference to A.F.D Modes A.F.D Modes AFD auto Performs the sound as it was recorded/encoded without adding any surround effects. However receiver will generate a low frequency signal for output to the subwoofer when there is no LFE signals. Perhaps I made a mistake ordering this rec. but it's been ordered and would not make much sense spending more money on shipping to return it. I'm currently looking at another Pioneer receiver that has a subwoofer pre-out and is higher wattage per channel. I'm uncertain what to do with the Sony receiver if I end up with two audio receivers.
  15. Yeah I seem to remember reading some about running the speaker wires to and from the subwoofer when a receiver doesn't have a subwoofer pre-outs. According to the SUB-10 manual you're suppose to run wires from the SUB-10's high level IN + / - (Right/Left) to the receivers main speaker (Right/Left) + / - Output and from the Sub-10's high level OUT + / - (Right/Left) to the receivers main speakers (Right/Left) + /-. So it appear you essentially have both front speakers connected to the receiver with the subwoofer inline between the front main speakers and receiver. I'm not certain what you mean by " You'll want to spec that the speakers are full range (if you can), and spec there's no sub (if you can)" I'm not certain what you mean by full range and spec for no sub? The bundled system the Sony receiver came with does have a subwoofer and the rec. has pair of jacks that are labeled "subwoofer" .
  16. I actually prefer things that are live such as live music. I was originally looking at a Pioneers such as the SX-315 and SX-316. Back in the 80s and 90s I did own a now vintage 300 - 350 watt Pioneer, I believe it was an SX series, all silver, with large and heavy wood speakers, Teac Reel to Reel and other audio equipment. Your comparison in wattage may be correct, I don't know without actually testing the two receivers. For my situation and environment I may only require 30 watts. The back of the Sony the entire receiver show it's rated at 210 watts. Anyway since it's already ordered I'll need to wait and see if it's works for my situation or not. I was thinking of going down to the local Goodwill and Salvation Army and look for a Stereo. Once in a while good quality electronics is donated. A few months ago when my Canon printer quit working I picked up an almost new Epson XP-820 printer for $20.00 Here's a few pics of the Sony STR-K790 which doesn't appear to be bad cosmetically.
  17. Yes appears to be a good deal. However the warranty for the refurb is only for one year. The watts are 50 watts per channel instead of 85 watts per channel. With shipping the Onkyo TX-8020 comes to ~$140.00. With shipping the Sony is $63.00. Perhaps the additional cost would be worth it however the Onkyo is more the twice what I paid for the Sony. Has no HDMI same as the Sony. After one year the Onkyo is out of warranty same as the Sony.
  18. Well I thought about getting a better receiver, even a better one than the Denon AVR. However since the only use is to provide better sound from streaming Internet, viewed from a confined space inside a RV. I didn't think a better receiver would make that much of a difference. The two bookshelf speakers barely fit within my other things inside the RV. No room to install additional speakers for front rear center and surround speakers. Plus if in a small space having additional features and speakers makes less of a difference as my two book shelf speakers are 2 to 3 feet away. My Internet streaming is also limited most of the time it streams SD video and occasionally I'm able to stream 720p. If I try to stream actual HD 1080p there usually are problems. Also the comcast connection is shared by other users and the connections always going up and down and isn't consistence. I doubt a better receiver would make any difference watching with the audio while streaming video at 480 and 720p. With the Denon AVR I never used any of it's additional features as all it was used for was to amplify stereo audio. The Klipsch B2's are ok but perhaps a little too high pitched. The SUB-10 helps some with base. The RV has limited space with alot of tools, boxes, books, misc electronics, cooking appliances and other stuff stored in the RV that effects and cancels out most of the audio. I doubt a better made, more recent audio receiver with more features would make much of a difference in this RV. The space you have your audio and av equipment installed is as important as the audio equipment itself. There are people are spending alot of money to create space for home theatre systems. Which typically can run from around $50,000.00 +/-. Though there are some that start lower at around ~$30,000.00.
  19. Hello, I have a pair of Klispsch B2 bookshelf speakers and a Sub-10 subwoofer that were at one time connected to an Denon AVR which broke down and stopped being able to output audio. The space I have this stereo system is an area inside of a motororhome approx. 14' x 8'. I only have it connected to a PC via a 3.5mm audio cable from which I play music, video, stream a tv show, movie, listen to the news, etc. So it's more or less little audio system for a PC in a small area. I found another audio receiver, used. A Sony STR-K790 which I believe was originally part of a Sony Home Theatre System. STR-K790 specifications Stereo Mode (rated) (6 ohms 1 kHz, THD 1%) 85 W + 85 W All speakers front, center, surrounds and subwoofer are rated for 6 ohms The B2 is rated for 8 ohms Frequency Response 62Hz - 23kHz +/-3dB Power Handling 75 w (300 w peak) Sensitivity 92dB @ 2.83 volts/1 meter Nominal Impedance IMPEDANCE 8 ohms Crossover Frequency 2300Hz I've read there should be no problems connecting a 6 ohm receiver to 8 ohm speakers?
  20. Hello, I had a Klipsch Sub-10 that failed (started to blow fuses) and sent the input panel into a person who repairs electronics, audio equipment including subwoofers. He stated he would need to determine if the SUB-10 input panel could be repaired. After a couple of weeks he sent back an email stating he was able to repair part of the subwoofer input panel but was still trying to determine if he was able to repair another part of the subwoofers main board. (input panel) Eventually I heard back from the repair person that he was able to repair the SUB-10. I have this stereo system with two Klipsch book mount speaks installed in an RV main area with stereo system is approx. 8 x 14 so a SUB-12 is a bit of an overkill. He sent the input panel back and the SUB-10 now works perfectly for the small space I have it installed. During the time the SUB-10 was in the repair shop, I purchased a new Klipsch SUB-12 and added an extended 4 year warranty (included shipping both ways) that would start after the manufacture's 2 year warranty expired. I decided to try and sell the SUB-12 as it's taking up storage space. The problem I'm having with the new SUB-12 with warranty is I was told by Klipsch once you purchase one of their products such as a SUB-12 the warranty is only good for the original purchaser and can't be transferred unless it has a gift receipt. I'm not really certain what a gift receipt is or why it would make any difference. I have the SUB-12 advertised it as a sub-woofer with an extended warranty that starts after the manufactures 2 year warranty expires but was wondering if there's any way to include the two year (from time of purchase) Klipsch warranty as well? Most items I've purchased the manufacture's warranty is honored when transferred to a new owner.
  21. Just to clarify I'm aware of the differences between a passive and active subwoofer. I'm not an audiophile but have been into live and recorded music since the 50's and 60's. I purchased a used Klipsch SUB10 200 watt as-is. Seller described as won't turn on or produce sound. He was right doesn't produce any sound. The fuse hasn't blown I haven't had a chance to try and diagnose the problem, with a DMM . Most likely the amp isn't producing any power. So I purchased a brand new Klipsch SUB12 with a two year manufacture warranty. - 300 watts FS and 500 watts RMS.
  22. Hello, I recently picked up a non working Klipsch SUB-10 subwoofer off ebay. Weighs approx. 40 lbs, 17" (H) x 14" (W) x 18.9" (D) inches. The woofer is underneath. These are my first Klipsch front speakers and subwoofer, The external appearance of the subwoofer from eBay, comparing pics online, appears to be a SUB-10, the feet and front are the same. However after removing the input panel there is a part number sticker on the metal plate that holds the inputs and PCB, that reads SW10 120V, C707163314. I've looked at several pics of a SUB-10 input panel online. The input panel I have (labeled SW10) the PCB layout, placement of the caps, high level in & out jacks, transformer, additional pcbs, etc all electronics appear to be identical to the pics of a SUB-10. It appears the factory mislabeled the input panel. The SW10 is rated at 100 watts (uncertain of the peak) and the SUB-10 is rated for 200 watts FS (around ~500 watts peak) The SW10 input pcb panel I have appears to be identical to a SUB10 input pcb input panel from the links below. SUB10 input panel PCB SUB10 p/n sticker
  23. I took a closer look and have e-mailed a repair shop for verification. The SUB-10 fuse near the power cord, after taking some measurements of the fuse holder appears to use a 5 mm x 20 mm 2.0 amp fuse, which I believe is a fast blowing type. You should be able to find this type of fuse at a Radio Shack, online or possibly at a hardware store. It's diameter and length is smaller than a more common standard 1/4 x 1 1/4 inch size glass fuses. Whether the factory fuse has any specific specifications I don't know. Most likely it's a standard fast blowing glass fuse. There are glass fuses that are called slow blow, time delay fuses such as the Bussman GDC Series, Time-Delay, Glass Tube - GDC-2A. Won't blow for up to 2 mins with an overload. =========== Update ========== I found out the fuse you need is the 2.0 amp Time-Delay Slow blowing fuse Bussman GDC-2A or equivalent will be the right fuse for the SUB-10 http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/bussmann/Electrical/Resources/product-datasheets-a/Bus_Ele_DS_2016_GDC_GDC-V_Series.pdf https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-2-0a-250v-5x20mm-slow-blow-glass-fuse-4-pack http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/eaton/BK-GDC-2A/283-2276-ND/264786 http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bussmann-Eaton/BK-GDC-2A/?qs=RpX4E3T4PRZAq%2bc1NNAOrQ%3D%3D
  24. The only manuals for the SUB-10 I'm able to find are a cut-sheet with specifications and another how to position the subwoofer. Yes I agree it's likely a fast blow, however I'm looking for the part number and type of the original fuse. Fast blowing fuses some times have different ratings. (most likely it's a standard spec. fast blowing fuse). I've read problems about some of the Klipsch subwoofers blowing fuses, however there are no details such as under what type of conditions, fuse rating details, etc. Potentially there's a problem with some Klipsch subwoofers or people are installing a fuse that doesn't match the specifications of the original factory fuse.
  25. The fuse didn't blow. I purchased the sub used and it didn't come with a fuse. The sub appears to have had little or no use. One foot is broken. Perhaps someone dropped it and it's a return the store seller ended up with. I'm uncertain of any previous diagnostics. The power board appears to be brand new, if the problem isn't with the fuse, then I'll remove and inspect the amplifier / control board. When trying to diagnose electronics it's better to start with the fundamentals such as power to the unit, power cord and any fuses. This sub uses a BASH amp, so it's possible when the only problem is the amp, which I believe (withiout a schematic or service manual) should be a separate pcb. A new amp board is sometimes all that's required to repair an existing input/amp pcb. This subwoofer is rated 200 amps and 500 peak.. Some subwoofers go out because of bad caps, etc. and can be repaired. Repair service service can cost upwards to around $200.00 possibly higher if other things are wrong with the subwoofer. You can pick up a brand new 300 watt (RMS) Bash subwoofer amp for around $150.00. SUB-10 or SUB-12 input / amp boards can be difficult to find used at a similar price as that of a new 300 BASH subwoofer amp. I haven't yet dismantled the SUB-10 for inspection. It may be possible to take the BASH 300 subwoofer amp board or another 200 - 300 watt subwoofer amp board and replace the amp board (pcb) in the SUB-10. Anyway the SUB-10 I'm adding to a bookshelf installation for a PC in a small area is certainly large enough. Weighs ~40 lbs and approx. ~20" x ~20" x ~20".
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