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aperfectcircle

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Posts posted by aperfectcircle

  1. On 12/29/2023 at 10:47 PM, OO1 said:

    too bad you're not considering the Wilsenton R8  ,   there's something very special about that amp , put it against more expensive tube amps in a blind test , the R8 may surprise you with CW IV speakers

    I did write a reply but something must have gone awry!

     

    I have ended up with the Willsenton R300 and couldn’t be happier.  I was strongly leaning to the Cary, as I’ve been very keen on going to a simple 300B amp.  The R300 is stunning, right out of the gate with no hours on it.  Even my fiancée had an immediate reaction of “this sounds much better” though in comparison to the Bluesound.  The sound is big, three dimensional, and vocals sound sublime.  Bass is fantastic too which was a big worry.  I actually think the R300 beats the PrimaLuna I had, at least in some areas, but considering the price it’s a killer and I don’t think I’ll be looking to change for some time (tube rolling notwithstanding after getting some serious hours on the stock kit).

    • Like 1
  2. On 12/29/2023 at 7:22 PM, henry4841 said:

    What many do not know is that an active device, tube or transistor, sounds best when it has to work the hardest. Most audio designers run tubes on the output stage of a SET tube amplifier at 80% of max for tubes and transistors in a class A amp around 35% to 40% of max. Max for both will sound best, that is before they self destruct. Both are being working hard at 80% and 35% respectically. For tech minded geeks it means we run a lot of current through them both. Tubes are designed to run really hot whereas transistors in class A are generally run at 55C degrees which requires big heatsinks and hardware to keep them cool. This is one of the reasons high end audio buffs prefer class A.

     

    You are probably aware from research already that the audio signal in class A is left as pure as possible and not manipulated as in class B. In class B the transistor is off until it detects a signal then turns on. This creates what is called in a class B PP amplifier as crossover distortion where the audio signal is split into with one section handling the positive part of the signal and another the negative. In a class A/B amplifier the active devices are run with some current where they will be on some but run more current when a larger signal is detected. In other words a class A amplifier at low volumes and turns into class B at higher volumes. Hence the name Class A/B. 

     

    I am not that knowledgeable on class D. I have read the principles on class D operation but have not fully absorbed where I understand it fully. Too old and forgetful these days but from what little I remember 5 or more years ago a really high frequency signal is attached to the audio signal then filtered out before driving a speaker. Perhaps more talented people on this forum can explain class D operation better. Class D operation has come a long way since I first read about it in the 70's or 80's and many these days sound really good. I have many of them as well as many of the other forms of amplification. 

    I have to admit I’m not as technically knowledgeable as you are, but have a general understanding.  That said, my experience with class D has been let’s say, less than stellar.  Not bad, per se, but very boring and clinical.  I just find the presentation to be unappealing.  My little Bluesound does a decent job, and is great for general AV and background music duties, but it just lacks that wow factor.  I’d be interested in hearing some of the more advanced and pricey class D options for comparison though.

    • Like 1
  3. On 12/28/2023 at 12:36 AM, Schu said:

    there is a lot of good stuff going on in Vietnam... when I was looking for some Jupiter cap's a few years ago (after they stopped making them) I found some in Vietnam. they came with zero issues.

     

    My choice would be for a Tube of some kind... a 45, 2A3 or 300 is good.

     

    The audio scene here is quite big!  Have already met a fair few people with a lust for good sound, and the second hand market looks promising too as an alternative to buying new 

    • Like 1
  4. On 12/28/2023 at 12:18 AM, henry4841 said:

    SET tube amps are class A. Nature of SET. Class A SS amps run hot but both SS class A and SET are the most linear form of amplification. The audio signal is not manipulated in any way. 

    Yes thanks!  Aware that SET is also class A, the distinction was more specifically for solid state as if I go that way my preference is for A over A/B - not based on any logic or experience, but from lots (probably too much) of reading and reviews.  

  5. On 12/28/2023 at 1:33 AM, KT88 said:

    Personally, I take a technical approach to choosing an amp before I listen to its sound. By that I mean whether everything fits together really well electrically. I don't know the devices you describe from my own experience. But I briefly googled your Line Magnetic 33, and the output impedance of 10K ohms limits the number of usable amps somewhat. Another point, I have absolutely no idea to what extent these 300B amps really have a pre amp, as was the case with your Prima Luna, it had a real pre amp section. I don't want to talk these mentioned 300B amps down, I even do not know the circuits but you should be vigilant. There are plenty of tube amps with a volume pot and a selector switch that don't actually have a pre amp but only control the gain at the power amp input. I can only speak for myself personally. I am absolutely delighted with the reviews I have read about the Luxmann 550 AXII. The advantage is that it is a really well thought-out and sophisticated device that includes a real preamp. In the tests of the Line Magnetic 33 I read that it cannot drive a power amplifier directly to highest satisfaction. It needs a preamp or a real integrated amp to unfold its sonic splendour. And what would particularly appeal to me is that the Luxmann itself has a highly praised MC and MM phono input. I wouldn't shy away from comparing the two, Luxmann vs. Line Magnetic as you get the MC input „for free“.
    I'm perhaps a little biased because after 30 years with tubes, which I really enjoyed, I've now rediscovered SS. I had vintage Leak Stereo 20, Quad II, Audion 300B Silvernight power amps with EAR 864, and the last 23 years Mcintosh C22 CE with MC275 and MC2102. Now I have restored old vintage Quad 606 myself together with a Quad 34 Pre amp and EAR MC4 SUT. Don't laugh, the Quad gear is great, both with my vintage LaScala and my underground Jubilees. A bit like class A feeling due to the current dumping circuit. I love to enjoy my music without tube wear and tear and without tube rolling. If I were you, I would choose the Luxmann...also because then you don't have to experience any surprises with incorrect impedances, plus your CW4s may have high sensitivity, but they certainly appreciate the better control that the Luxmann offers.

    Having heard the IVs with a 590 I’m very very attracted to the Luxman.  Appreciate your thoughts, lots to ponder!  Was set on replacing tubes with tubes but now not so sure 

    • Like 2
  6. 17 hours ago, Idontknow said:

    So far the Elekit 300b is the most amazing 300 I've heard with the Heritage series. It's silky smooth, great bass and open sounding. This one had the Lundahl transformers which are the finest. I did a brief review of it here but spent some time with it on loan from a friend. 

     

    Thanks!  I shall have a further look into this

  7. On 12/28/2023 at 4:35 AM, Shakeydeal said:

    Since your listening level is on the low side, you are a perfect candidate for a 300B amp. Keep in mind, all are not created equal. I don’t think I’d go for a cheap SET amp. When it comes to low watt amps, the power supply and driver stage is crucial. More so than moderate to high powered tube amps. And this is the first place where corners are cut. Not trying to scare you away, just making you aware.


    cheers.  Yes, going cheap may not be the best idea.  Of course I can sell and upgrade, but I’m usually the type to just go all out in the first instance.  I’m sure the Willsenton is a decent piece of kit but the Cary is likely going to be a safer and better investment.

  8. Seeking thoughts on where to next amplifier wise, to power a pair of Cornwall IV.  Previously had a PrimaLuna Dialogue HP integrated (running new issue Tung-Sol KT120s and Mullard 12AU7s after various prior combos from several years of rolling). 

     

    Moved from NZ to Vietnam, so (maybe foolishly) decided to simplify and sold the PL amp and am now left with a wee Bluesound PowerNode (the latest model) doing amp duties in an apartment.  Due credit to the Bluesound; it’s doing a marvellous job most of the time (it always operated as the main amp for daily TV and music with the tubes being swapped in for a serious listening session) but its lack of inputs means my lovely Wand turntable and large vinyl collection is gathering dust in a spare room.  So it’s time for a new bad boy to join the club. 

     

    The intent was always to get a new amp once settled, but now I’m unsure which direction to go.  I’m currently thinking of two broad options:

     

    1 - 300B

     

    I’d love to get a nice SET amp and have a lust for the legendary 300B, which I’ve never heard.  The PL was my first and only foray into the world of tubes (bar the very nice Line Magnetic LP33 phono) and I loved the balance of deep, thick and controlled bass with luscious mids that the PL was delivering.  

     

    I’m considering dipping my toes in with a Willsenton R300, which is inexpensive (notwithstanding the tube rolling that will no doubt follow) and seems to have some really good reviews.  The other, more pricey, option is a Cary Audio 300SEI.

     

    2 - Class A (ideally) SS

     

    Whilst myself and the dog have largely adapted to the humidity and heat of Saigon (we seem to have averaged 33-34 every day for 5 months) I’m wondering whether solid state may be a better option in this environment.  I’d love to get a Luxman 550/590 AXII while they’re still around, and have a list of various SS amps that are also good options from McIntosh, Accuphase and a few others.  

     

    Living on the 31st floor is quite a change from the house on section, so my ability to crank the sound is rather more limited (though the walls are solid concrete, including all internal walls, so it’s a lot more flexible than other apartments I’ve experienced).  That said, since getting the Cornwall (coming from Forte III) I’ve found my listening volume has come down as the sound from these is just so bloody clear and balanced at even low volumes I don’t feel the need to crank it until the vodka intake has surpassed a certain level.  I like my bass, but I’ll take that super clean drum hit and reverb over bloated big thunderous bass.

     

    Thoughts and suggestions?  Music wise it’s anything from jazz to K-pop here, but the realism, dynamics, vocals and cohesiveness is what matters most.  Will a good 300B be able to control those big 15” woofers and give enough oomph or am I better off looking at a nice class A solid state?

  9. On 10/12/2022 at 2:10 PM, indocti discant said:

    Dunno what it is about Klipsch - but I've been attached to them for a long time now. Bought a pair of RP280FAs a couple of years and love them. But about a year or so ago discovered the heritage line and have been yearning to upgrade them. 

    Our space is an odd one - it's a studio apartment that has the place set up for home theater and listening to music (Amazon HD music streamed through Denon HEOS). I also have a record player / may get another one in the future. 

    Room is maybe 25 feet deep, and we sit about 10 feet away from the speakers right now. 

    I've been non stop thinking about which to get and after getting over wanting to buy used speakers - settled on the Forte IVs based on SteveHuff's review. I went through the whole - Yeah I can do the Klipschorns and then realizing that we don't exactly have 2 corners in which to place them, to then thinking oh the La Scalas - to realizing that they might be too big, to the Cornwalls and then even down to the Heresys. 

     

    Anyhow, throughout all of this I've still been randomly checking classifieds and a pair of La Scalas have popped up. 1978 Birch - all original - seemingly owned by a woodworker with some extra layers and a guard put on them. My concern with something that old is that I'm not exactly very handy when it comes to doing any upgrades etc and have no sense if such an old speaker would need refurbishment work. 


    I also found a pair of Klipschorns with recently replaced woofers - that I'm also thinking about. 

    So that sort of brings me to one of my first set of questions - just what should I be concerned about, look at when it comes to anything vintage like that? And has the sound changed considerably to the current ones (which based on everything I've read - it has?). Is there a place I should go to to read up about all of this? 
    B

    Otherwise, is going with the Forte IVs a better option - brand new - nothing to really worry about for a while yadda yadda?

    Finally - if I am to upgrade my receiver (which I likely will) is something like a Denon 6700h or similar Marantz the appropriate choice? I do want to have height front and rear - currently I only have a 5.1.2 system. 

     

    Or should I keep my existing Denon for home theater viewing and get a dedicated amp for listening to music? And if so what would be a good one that can play streaming music? 

     

    Apologies for what is probably a whole host of questions - trying to be as clear while also being concise. 

    Thank you and I look forward to being here :)

     

    Any update on what direction you ended up going?

     

    As someone who went from RF-82 II (predecessor to your 280s) to Forte III then to Cornwall IV, I say bite the bullet and go for the Cornwall.  You won’t regret it, even if they take up a bit more room than the Forte IV.

    • Like 1
  10. Looks like new “ Heritage” powered models on the way.  Shown at an audio show in Hong Kong (Sevens shown with Fives on the left and Nines in the back - photo not mine).

     

    Nothing on the main site with any details yet.  

    22EE3E20-5833-475C-8C35-D2F46A5B0546.jpeg

    • Like 5
  11. I don’t think I saw the KT120s mentioned, so thought I’d throw in for consideration.

     

    I haven’t heard the 300s or the 150s, but have tried various EL34s, KT88s and now KT120s in my PrimaLuna.

     

    The 120s are more dynamic but smoother than the 88s with a bit of that EL34 mid range magic.  They punch lower and cleaner too.  I very rarely use my sub with my Cornwall IV when listening to music.  

    • Like 1
  12. I would definitely give that Yamaha 801 some serious consideration, if you haven’t already made a call and you’re not wedded to the two in your original post.

     

    You might not have any use for Bluetooth etc, but those S series integrated Yammy’s are very nice amps with good current and a neutral sound.  I would grab one over a Schiit without question.  

  13. 2 hours ago, jjptkd said:

     

    If you're comparing the low end response of the newer forte's (III & IV) to the older versions it wasn't the passive that changed the tuning it was the new woofer. Klipsch had a lot of problems with the original forte woofer (k-23) they would burn up and they'd get a lot of returns, they tried to fix that in the forte II with a vented voice-coil (k-25) but still had issues. The new woofer is more rugged but not as well suited for the low frequencies. 


    Do you know what the design changes were between the original woofers and the newer more rugged options?  I’ve never heard the I or II, but am interested to understand what they’ve changed as they’ve evolved the model. 

  14. On 4/5/2022 at 2:59 AM, Klipschtastic said:

    Thanks for everyone's input!  I bought the Cornwall's from Paducah home theater.  They arrived last Thursday.  After listening to them for a good 20 hours by now I am very impressed!  They beat the the KLF 20's by a good margin in about every facet except for bass impact.  The CWIVs have a much richer, more open and fuller midrange.  Guitars, vocals and drum all have more of a sense of air and space around them as if you are an observer in the venue where the recording is taking place. It is as if the midrange is three dimensional now. I always fought with the midrange on the KLFs, eventually installing an Lpad to tame them a bit.  The KLFs are wonderful with the right recordings but are more revealing of poor recordings than the Cornwalls.  In fact one of the worst recordings I have ever heard on the KLFs, Sinead O'conner's 'Drink Before the War' sounds markedly better on the Cornwalls.  I was really surprised to find myself actually enjoying it for the first time. The whole speaker sounds more integrated as one cohesive sound if that makes sense.  The CWIV are fantastic!  I am quite happy with them.  The KLFs are still a bargain on the used market even at $1500 for a nice pair but if you can afford it I recommend the CWIV.

    The KLFs will be moved down to the home theater and the RF3s will be sold.


    I should have read to the end of the thread before replying to an earlier comment :D

     

    Stoked to see you bit the bullet and got the Cornwall.  They really are a magical speaker.  
     

    If you’re an Apple Music user, let me know and I’ll PM you a link to my every growing playlist of stuff that sounds great on the CW if you’re interested.

    • Like 1
  15. On 3/31/2022 at 6:37 PM, CoryGillmore said:

    I own CWIV and have never heard Forte IV, but I feel like most people who have heard both usually say the FIV seems to have deeper or more impactful bass? I dunno but I do know CWIV has amazing bass. I was using a pair of subs for a while but not much anymore. CWIV and a decent integrated is all one needs for two-channel music bliss. 


    Late to the party, but agree on the CW bass.  I have a Rythmik F12G sub that I usually only use for TV/movies, and don’t often bother to swap over to the tube amp when I’m having a music session.  I often find myself thinking the sub is connected when it’s not, though it does dig deeper when it is on (I have the sub tuned for very tight integration with the CW).  But it’s a testament to the CW how deep they dig.

     

    I haven’t heard the Forte IV, but upgraded to the CW IV from Forte III.  Assuming the bass performance is similar between the III and IV, the Cornwall dig deeper but are much cleaner/tighter than the Forte.  My initial impressions were that the Forte dig deeper, but after listening more and letting the CW settle in, I felt there was some illusion with the Forte bass digging deeper due to being less tight/thicker than the CW.  
     

    Both speakers had plenty of breathing space, so the rear passive on the Forte wasn’t too loaded - pushing it closer to the rear wall does deliver a different experience, and is one of the benefits of the Forte.  But even if that does allow it to dig deeper, from my experience with the III, it was at the expense of tightness so led to a bit more flub.

     

    For OP, haven’t heard KLFs - only the CW IV, Forte III and RF-82 II in home, and RF-7 III and RP-6000F in demo/at friends.  I can’t imagine that the Cornwall IV wouldn’t be a significant upgrade on your KLF.  They truly are incredible and will be coming with me to Vietnam should I end up relocating their from NZ later this year! 

    • Like 1
  16. When not spinning the black discs, I’ve mainly shifted to Apple Music now the catalogue is all lossless.  I’ve been using Apple Music since it came out, and prior to that managed my library via iTunes, so it’s all synced up.  I still have all my “physical” digital files, but I’ve moved them off the Mac and onto a portable SSD I keep plugged into my Cambridge CXN streamer.  
     

    What I really like about Apple Music is its library centric approach, versus Spotify’s playlist centric experience.  I can listen on the go, listen in full high resolution/lossless via USB to the CXN and my PrimaLuna amp, via AirPlay to my Bluesound PowerNode, via the Apple TV, or on my Mac.  

  17. In little old New Zealand, the Forte IV have just released at $12k retail, up from $9k for the III.  
     

    Cornwall IV have gone up from $14k to $15k.

     

    I bought the Forte III when it was released here in late 2017 for $7k, and recently upgraded to the Cornwall IV at the previous $14k price.  
     

    That's a 50% increase in retail price for the Forte in 3 1/2 years over this side of the world.  
     

    Still worth every penny compared to the rest!

    • Like 1
  18. On 9/7/2021 at 12:55 AM, Marvel said:

    Actually, VOXX International purchased Klipsch in 2011. The company is in the VOXX Consumer Group.

     

    The RB 81 II is still made.


    I think the RB-81 was discontinued around 2015 when Klipsch introduced the new Reference and Reference Premiere model lines; with the Reference Premiere RP-600M being the current spiritual successor to the RB-81?

  19. Just chipping in having read this thread, and the thread referenced.

     

    This dude had both the RF7 III and Cornwall IV for a decent amount of time and ultimately decided to go with the Cornwall?  Now he is expressing dissatisfaction with that decision and saying he made the choice due to comments/advice on here?

     

    If I’ve understood this correctly, what’s the problem?  I could understand if it was someone making a blind buying decision between the two, but if you’ve got them both in front of you the decision is yours and yours alone.

     

    I think as a general rule, speak about your own experiences and provide advice on things to listen for based on what an OP has offered up, which is exactly what I see in this forum.  Lovely people with great knowledge and experience wanting to help, to share, and encourage.  
     

    Kia kaha 

    • Like 2
  20. 3 hours ago, CoryGillmore said:

    Ok yeah when you put it that way I see your point!

     

    I bought mine sight unseen/unheard! I based it on reviews alone. I found them to be pretty shouty before I found the right placement and toe-in. I ended up stuffing them back as far in the corner as they would go and just barely toeing them in. I'm in love now and I still have upgraded electronics to look forward to!

     

    Currently running a Schiit Modius DAC into an old Onkyo A/V receiver. Well not old old but from like 2016. I have my sights set on a Freya+ pre and Schiit Aegirs in monoblock. Possibly considering one of their multi-bit balanced DACs too. 

    I'm just scared I'm gonna drop over 3k on electronics and it won't make much difference.....I'm not a huge believer in electronics but I do know that adding in the Modius into my current chain and bypassing the internal DAC of this A/V receiver was quite the upgrade in clarity and musicality. I'm hoping for a similar revelation with a preamp and class A monoblock amps. 


    Forgot to add, I’ve gone the complete opposite on placement.  I have the Cornwall a decent way out from the rear and side walls and toe in so they’re crossing a foot or so in front of my head.spacer.png

    • Like 5
  21. 3 hours ago, CoryGillmore said:

    Ok yeah when you put it that way I see your point!

     

    I bought mine sight unseen/unheard! I based it on reviews alone. I found them to be pretty shouty before I found the right placement and toe-in. I ended up stuffing them back as far in the corner as they would go and just barely toeing them in. I'm in love now and I still have upgraded electronics to look forward to!

     

    Currently running a Schiit Modius DAC into an old Onkyo A/V receiver. Well not old old but from like 2016. I have my sights set on a Freya+ pre and Schiit Aegirs in monoblock. Possibly considering one of their multi-bit balanced DACs too. 

    I'm just scared I'm gonna drop over 3k on electronics and it won't make much difference.....I'm not a huge believer in electronics but I do know that adding in the Modius into my current chain and bypassing the internal DAC of this A/V receiver was quite the upgrade in clarity and musicality. I'm hoping for a similar revelation with a preamp and class A monoblock amps. 


    I don’t think you’ll regret switching out the AVR.  I run a “dual” setup as such, with a PrimaLuna integrated for music listening and a Yamaha Aventage A810 for general TV/film/background music.

     

    The PrimaLuna absolutely kills the Yamaha for music - airy, holographic, gorgeous mids and staging.  The AVR ain’t bad, but it’s apples and oranges and worth the hassle of running the two amps and the cable swaps when I want to settle down for a listen with a drop of Aussie red.

    • Like 1
  22. 1 minute ago, Deano1974 said:

    Hopefully they are shipping Oct/Nov 2 pairs coming into NZ I have taken 1 pair, the walnut finish, same amps to run them, primaluna

    Exciting!

    Sent from my VOG-L09 using Tapatalk
     

    Damn!  You are going to be in absolute bliss!  

  23. 6 hours ago, Deano1974 said:

    So after 2 years I finally, with the wife's permission was allowed to move the La Scala's into the lounge, previously they were in a smaller room 
     
    And wow what a difference, haven't told her the real reason for the move was that I have the new Jubilee's on order and they definitely wouldn't fit in the old room lol
     
    Here are a few pics of the room 
     
    I'm running a fully active system with DaveA horn lens, Chris A originally helped me dial the crossovers in for the old room 
     
    In this room Zach and Aaron from A-Z tuning dialed them in using REW remotely and dialled in the 2 x SB-2000 Pros 
     
    Would never have teken the steps to go active without the advice amd help from alot of guys on this forum and now the next step Jubiiiiiileeees yeah baby! 
     
     

    99165e1715e240db8fb616dda08e4fb2.jpg


    dude, new Jubes?  When will they arrive?  Jeez you’re gonna be deaf soon with those beasts.  What are you going to drive them with?

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