Endo

Regarding meaning, I think its playing with the idea of double vision: imagine the confusion an unsuspecting drinker might have as they're handed this bottle opener after already having a few... they look down at the bottle they're about to open and pause... thinking, "whoa, ... am I seeing double, or does this crazy opener actually have two sets of eyes?" ... and everybody laughs!

Mine: Tubecube > Cornwalls. / Sovtek EL84M's and a Sovtek 12AX7LPS. (spoiler alert: 2 thumbs up) My previous (and first) tube amp was a Japanese SEP manufactured in the 1960's (6BM8 power tubes--alternating between Matsushita and Sovtek; 2 12ax7's; 1 Sylvania 6x4 rectifier). This had been my best amp for 2 channel music; the separation, depth of sound-stage was noticeably better than my SS amps... One day, I bought the Tubecube on a whim... and powering it up for the first time, I was struck by improved bass in the first few seconds of the first track. No hyperbole--I wasn't "blown away" or anything like that... but, immediately and without any hesitation I could sense this little amp was the clear winner of the two amps. It was obvious. Time passed, and I sold the Japanese amp... . So, for anyone wanting to try tubes for the first time, or those on a budget... I can think of no reservations. The previous post @AndreG. about combining a TubeCube with a Schiit pre sounds like a great idea (room-correction? why, yes, thank you!). [Re: power - even on rare occasions when I've got it playing loud--the volume pot is not over 50%; for normal listening it stays between 15–30%. If you need to be heard through hearing protection at the Canadian lumberjack nationals, obviously, this isn't the amp; but if you're playing music at home with anything Heritage--I would not expect power issues of any kind. Added bonus: for owners of 4 ohm Heritage... we've got 4, 6 and 8 ohm taps.] I'm pressing myself to come up with some negatives... Here's a big one: Its made in China. Can't think of anything else. I wonder what Schiit would need to charge to make their own version of this? The original design is from England, if I recall; MiniwattN2, or something?. I would easily pay much more for one of these, if made here in the U.S--or, somewhere in Europe. But it isn't.

for somebody in the market for commercial LS, its hard to imagine finding anything better. GLWS.

very nice!

@ClaudeJ1 – I am just curious, your personal experience pretty much runs the gamut regarding subs... I am curious about the LAB 12, 18' tapped horn (Danley was involved in the early drawings that circulate the Web, I think; have I got this right? and its DNA seems to cross with the DTS10 and 20). It seems conspicuously absent from the thread, above... I sense I may be missing something. Also, there seems to be some agreement that a tapped-horn is misplaced with LaScalas... why is that? [As an aside: I just finished my LAB 12 this past week... and, although I am enjoying it--because it is the only horn sub I've ever had--I am in no position to make comments about how it might compare with other designs]

for future reference...

If it were me, I'd be looking at a "french cleat" of some sort. Reason being, in addition to being secure--you could mount the cleat to the plywood back with a minimum of damage/alteration to the cabinet: If you ever removed the cleat, there would only be two, relatively small screw holes left in the back (not a big deal). Just a thought. You might do a quick search to see how different people are implementing this... Its dead simple, and works. I'm sure there are many other ways to do this--just my two cents. Obviously, everybody will have their preference.

I would be interested in seeing photos of the trashed cabinets--if they still exist. Don't know your location, but I might be interested.

Ad went up 17 hrs ago. No affiliation.

No affiliation. The ad reads horn "cabinets" but they appear to be complete.

Looks like there might be a pair here--ad posted yesterday:

A man went to the Doctor, concerned about his wife’s hearing. “Go back home and say something to her,” the doctor suggested. “Tell me how close you are when she hears you.” The man went home and saw his wife in the kitchen, cutting carrots. From 15 feet away, he said, “Honey, what’s for dinner?” Nothing. He walked halfway to her and repeated the same question. Nothing. Concerned, he stood right behind her and asked again, “What’s for dinner?” She turned around and exclaimed, “For the third time, beef stew!”

My bad. I thought I'd read everything twice... and I still missed that. Still wondering if anyone can speak to Lab 12 in THTLP. vs. Lab 12 in the 'Lab12 Tapped Horn'. The boxes are about ~300 c.i. apart from each other and THTLP has a larger mouth despite its being shorter overall. Just curious.

What driver were you using in your THTLP when you saw these numbers?

^Am really looking forward to adding this to my system. Thank you all, for the responses!

^ It must be the camera angle that makes his ears look horn-loaded.

Yeah, that was my impression, then I stumbled across this on Bill's website (in the Forum) about using the LAB12 with the Tuba HT. Looks like the man himself (?) I imagined him taller. . Link to thread here...

Now I'm contemplating Fitzmaurice's 'Tuba HT' - low profile version... I'm not a guy who can modify, test, and tweak a speaker design... Reading through posts on this forum, I happened on to a link to Bill F's website. Turns out he's got a design that uses the same driver that ALREADY approximates the dimensions of my 'unfolded' horn and fits my available space). Hmmm. Here's my question: Does anyone here have opinions about the Tuba HT coupled with a single LAB12? Comparisons? • The LAB12 has already shipped, so that's a given • also ordered: Lepai with TPA3118 (PE currently has it marked down, for those interested) I'm not finding data on the Tuba HT with a LAB12 (as apposed the 15" driver). Would love to hear from those who've been down this path before? Thanks in advance.

yeah, I realized my mistake... and immediately took it down. brain-dead.

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^ thank you, for that. I'm working within limits. Attempting to get this done. I'd rather try and fail, than... well, the other... worst-case-scenario: the driver is used for something else.

^ "nothing" translates to "nothing below 38 Hz".

I'm looking into this... With trepidation, I feel like I'm venturing into the unknown... right before I step into an unrecoverable abyss... [Leaning back, now, toward my original position of not deviating from a proven, successful design--not meddling with the hard-won efforts of other, more capable people] Reckless behavior can (sometimes) be fun--if you're all by yourself in some kind of parallel universe (or, if you are Bill Gates). But, not me. Not here. The "tapped-horn for LAB 12 driver" works; and not by accident. I will attempt a version that fits my circumstance with minimal alterations. It won't be difficult to improve on what I have now--which is nothing.

^ Now, I am retracting that last statement--like my eyes were playing tricks--looks like it might be square-cornered (?) I can see the bottom edge toward the back.

According to Kolbrek & Dunker, section 26.4, there is some advantage to radiused bends at low frequencies. According to Bruce Edgar (no relation), there is some advantage to full 45° reflectors at high frequencies. You're probably not going to encounter high frequencies, so a bit of corner radiusing might help. I could do something like the picture here, gluing stacks of MDF curves to fit the corners... don't know about flare at the mouth. after posting this thread, I was reading about the development of the LAB12 when I ran across the Danley DTS20 for the first time... Its roughly, similar in overall dimension and when you look at this photo of the mouth, it doesn't look flat-bottomed... looks like there is a curve or inclined surface just inside the mouth (?)