Endo

^Thank you. Appreciate the feedback.

Simply curious. How might this sound? Would like to compare--but don't want to destroy anything by doing something stupid. Is this in-series, or parallel? Seems like series. I'm no electronics expert, by any stretch--just a music lover. Have been trying to educate myself--but I still don't understand it. Found these diagrams and they got me to thinking something like this might be possible...

I have run this question past two very knowledgeable forum members/amp builders, and cannot resist the temptation to post it at-large, in the hopes that someone may have relevant experience and/or knowledge. This may be a crazy idea, ... but, in the spirit of exploration, here goes: •What happens when the two channels from a stereo amp--each carrying identical inputs--are run in series (as a single signal)? For instance, are the Ohms additive? Do a pair of 4 Ohm outputs combine into a usable 8 Ohms? What is the worst that can happen? For clarification, please see attached picture...

^Yes, what he said. PWK once remarked--"Miniaturized bass speakers have been attempted but so far no one has invented a miniature 32-foot wave length." Hence, the impressive scale of Klipsch horn-loaded bass bins. Physics won't be cheated.

^^ Beautiful. Very, nice. Can't tell if the first image is Forte or Chorus, but... plane-sliced birch, yes? This raises an interesting point: The fact that Baltic Birch is rotary cut veneer may be part of the reason behind its finishing characteristics. [For those unfamiliar, plane-sliced veneer is removed from the log like taking pages from a book; while rotary-cut (faster/cheaper) is like removing paper towels from a roll]. I have always found Baltic Birch to come from the factory with more of a fuzzy/softer face than cabinet grade, North American veneers--I suspect this has something to do with the way it finishes out. I do love working with Baltic Birch, good stuff; but, its not plane-sliced. EDIT: I just went back and read the original post... Ah'hem... yeah, don't do that. Big no-no. Do NOT try using lacquer inside the house. Do not even use it outside the house near an open door or window. Well-ventilated shop, or possibly outdoors, in the right circumstance. Lacquer has its downsides--but, it its benefits might be a good option for some. Before the piano industry started "dipping" everything in polyester--the standard finish was lacquer: whether it was a Hamburg Steinway or a Japanese Yamaha, they lacquered 'em--and it worked well. The Japanese, especially so; they've been lacquering to good effect for a thousand years. Its a proven finish capable of durability.

^^ Good points. Bear in mind that Baltic birch ply will not respond to finishes like a typical hardwood--hence the OP. Its good to know your options. As an aside: The grain on birch ply will "pop" (raise) after wetting of the first coat: If/when you sand--you're sanding due to the raised grain beneath the finish, not the finish itself.

[EDIT: lacquer continues to be among my favorite finishes for Baltic Birch, in particular--but NEVER use it indoors; my initial post completely missed this part of the original post. My apologies. ] Two things jumped out at me in your question: 1. Natural finish; and 2. Baltic Birch... Yes, agree completely about particular difficulties presented in staining baltic birch (splotchy, uneven). Clear, water-based urethane can help; and waxes, too, can be good. By far the best thing I have found for natural finish on Baltic-birch ply: Lacquer. Brush it on--or spray it (but, it brushes on very nicely). No need to prep with a "stain conditioner" first: Just sand to 150, or better, and apply. Another benefit I have found is that it typically self-levels so quickly--that the brush marks almost disappear completely--I find brushing on lacquer often looks like it was sprayed... very nice. Also, the stuff dries quickly and is easy-peasy to work with. Will not substantially alter the color of the birch (won't yellow like oil-based products; --similar in this respect to water based urethane). The cans says no sanding between coats... ? you decide.

Just saw this... https://denver.craigslist.org/ele/d/klipsch-cornwall-grill/6477057832.html

That's great! Had a similar awakening, recently, after decades of drinking nothing but slurry... One forgets what clean water tastes like. Drink deep. Thank you, PWK.

I am interested. Price?

I'm not affiliated with listing in any way... but you don't see this everyday... so, here it is: https://fortcollins.craigslist.org/ele/d/tv-tubes/6371581955.html

I (briefly) flanked my computer workstation with Cornwalls (keeping them at appropriate levels); bystanders would have been confused by the juxtaposition of scale. The sound, seated at my workstation, was luxurious. I had to look over my shoulder to make sure I wasn't going to be arrested. I have now restored their place(s) in the living room. I am at peace.

Congratulations on the new purchase! Very nice setup. Beautiful. My day just got better.

[deleted] I type too slow.

One of several sources I have, is a laptop connected to an integrated amp. The laptop supports outputs of USB, analog (3.5mm) and HDMI. I tried them all. It took me a while to discover the benefits of using the HDMI. I got an HDMI "audio extractor" from monoprice and the results, for me, were immediately apparent (~$40; pulls HDMI digital from the laptop and delivers analog through RCA). At this point, I cannot imagine using anything but the HDMI. I realize a system of parts is just that--and your results may vary. Others on this forum have used the same extractor with success. My understanding (limited, I'm sure) is that HDMI and USB are different animals--designed to meet different requirements; and, are by no means interchangeable when it comes to carrying audio signals.

Those cabinets are gorgeous. I'm not in the market, but best wishes with sale. Very nice.

^ USNRET, Thanks for the invite. Sounds like a great time. I'm in a circumstance where any destination over 300 miles may as well be in the other hemisphere. However, would very much like to make it. I think the words "... by their fruits" speaks pretty damn well of those bearing PWK's legacy.

^ USNRET, thank you. They are certainly curious little posts. They look so deliberate. And then there are the four, surrounding holes, and the raised fins (to isolate the lines?)... ?... These little terminal assemblies have a lot going on. Its nice to know you can take these speakers apart and put them back together again. So much stuff is made anymore that has to be discarded when it fails because you can't take it apart and fix it.

Newbie question, --this is going to be obvious to a lot of people, but I have never come across anything that explains it. What are the curious little threaded posts that sit just above the terminal screw heads on a v.1 Heritage Klipsch? Obviously, anything connected to these taps into the signal--but what is the intended purpose? Seems like whatever it is, later banana-style terminals must have made it unnecessary--(?).

I wonder what other tell-tale signs might speak to their being originals, or not? IF they are originals--the thought that PWK may have been walking through the factory as those were being assembled is pretty cool--I'd take that over a "better" condition knock-off any day. But, that's just me. To say I'm eccentric is probably an understatement. I've never seen the inside of Heresy's before. Those strips of wood that frame the rear opening--does anyone know, is that typical? My CW's don't have anything like that. (I realize now, that I want those empty carcasses to be originals--I'm rooting for it; but, they may not be!)

I am curious about this. Does the motor board, pictured below, have the "check outs"?... Just curious. This one looks like a similar vintage, with the velcro dots, pneumatic hole pattern and rear mounted horns...

Who's Rodney?...

^^ Thank you, Tigerman and novisnick! I appreciate the responses and helpful info.

Question for the TT experts out there... Is it OK to use my stereo cartridge/stylus to play mono LP's from the 1950s? Can I hurt anything doing this? or do I need two different setups, one for stereo and one for mono? Any advice would be appreciated.

^ Would love to see pictures! Please keep us posted. Are you working from existing drawings?