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Maz4bz

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    Alpine SWR 1522 DIY Budget Build Sub
    Alpine SWR 1540 DIY Budget Build Sub

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  1. Maz4bz

    KG4 or KG5.5

    I'm a bit late to this thread but wanted to add that the KG5.5's can be absolutely superb loud speakers....
  2. KG5.5's are fine loud speakers that can be relatively easily upgraded into exceptional performers in my opinion....
  3. G'day Trong, The crossover order won't affect the efficiency, but the conversion to a 2.5 way crossover most certainly does. This is because the lower woofer now rolls off early leaving the upper woofer to handle the rest of the frequency range up to crossover point with the tweeter. In theory this change reduces the overall system efficiency by 3db. Oh and I don't believe this system was ever 98db, more like 93 in the low end, about 96 above crossover in original spec. Mine are about 90db now which is still quite efficient by non-horn loaded speaker standards. Cheers. 🍻
  4. The crossover is EVERYTHING to the final sound. As Dr Geddes says, drivers are commodity products, and that he can make any sound relatively great with a well designed crossover. Don't kid yourself that you can change the crossover effectively without measurements. This is like trying to drive a car with the windscreen blanked out. You can operate the contolls but you have no real way of knowing where you are going! Get some measurement gear. Post your measurements. There are many here that can help you once you start posting data and being scientific. Hang in there it's well worth the effort.
  5. Hi VDS, The crossover is what I think of as the soul of your speaker "system". I say system because all the parts of the speaker, including the cabinet and how the drivers are arranged in the cabinet form that system. If you change anything, you are likely going to need to revise the crossover. To do crossover modifications you must measure the speaker. To do this you need a mic and some software. Considering the cost of drivers and crossover parts the outlay (to me) is relatively small and can reap major benefits, ie help you find the true potential of your system. Once you've measured your system you need to get those measurements in to a crossover design software such as XSim or VituixCAD and begin designing. There's a learning curve for sure, but once you get through the jargon and understand the process its actually quite straight forward. Both of those threads are great places to understand it all. I have been through this process with my lovely KG 5.5's. The effort was well worth the improvement, to me. 😉 Good luck. 🍻
  6. Hi Randall, I'm no electronic engineer however I think the simple answer is yes, assuming that pot can dissipate the electrical load adequately. However I would only do this for R2 which gives the ability to tune the slope of the tweeters response. I would not replace or change R3. This would raise (or lower) the entire output of the tweeter and create a situation similar to the stock crossover where there would be a step up (or down) in the frequency response at crossover like this.... This would degrade the on and off axis response, which we want to avoid. You would see this in the polar response with a sharp break in directivity something like this .... Good luck and please post back what you find. Cheers. 🍻
  7. Hi Greg, Yes you certainly can add the resistor at the tweeter +ve. I created resistor modules of various values that I simply plugged in at the tweeter so I could easily adjust the attenuation on my KG 5.5s tweeter. Once I arrived at a sound I liked I just left that module in place. Regarding the deadening I'd suggest just doing one and then A-Bing the modded with unmodified speaker side by side - can you hear any difference? Good luck and let us know how you get on. Cheers.
  8. These are great speakers and with a little tweaking and be truely superb....
  9. PVA - water soluble, non toxic, dries clear, forms a bond stronger (usually) than the timber. You can't use too much. Wipe up any runs with a damp cloth. Try not to clamp too tightly. You want some space for the glue to occupy. Clamping with too much force will simply squeeze out the glue leaving a weaker bond. I'd lay the cabinet down over some saw horses, apply glue then drop in the board. I'd clamp with some weights like a few medium weight house bricks to gently press down the board into the glue. I'd get under the cabinet and look up inside for glue runs and wipe these up as they appear. The saw horses will allow you access the interior from underneath. Good luck.
  10. Great plan, my advice however is to not flank the horn with woofers unless you are the only person in the room listening to your centre speaker and sitting straight ahead of it because you will get a response like the graph above; ie below the crossover the two woofers will be interfering with each other. Also you would likely create a very narrow high frequency listening window by orientating the horn like the C7 as it's dispersion is designed for the orientation the other way per the floorstander; ie wide horizontal, narrow vertical for controlled directivity. But whatever you do it'll be a great learning experience. Enjoy!
  11. If I may I'd like to suggest you orientate your drivers like this: Or kind a-like this.... 😉 Ideally you'd also roll off one woofer using a 2.5 way crossover to avoid the off axis cancelations you get from a 2 way like we showed happens with a "normal" horizontal center channel. A two way will probably work ok straight ahead, but the response off-axis will likely be negatively impacted like this.... The 2.5way crossover worked wonders with my KG 5.5's - think big-center-channel with two woofers but standing up rather than lying on its side. 🧐 Good luck! 🍻
  12. Love your work MechEngVic! Tracing is certainly one way of creating your own frequency and impedance files for X-Sim (or other tools). The other way is to get a mic and a DATS/Woofer tester and make your own. Relative to the cost of building/modding a system, getting the gear to actually measure is usually a small investment. For all the effort you'll go to - tracing, simulating and building - getting the measurement gear means you'll be able to validate what you've done has actually worked in the end. The key for me is setting the forward lobe - where the drivers sum on the vertical axis - is the hard part. This can only be done (as far as I'm aware) by actually measuring your drivers in the enclosure you have your drivers loaded into. Please don't take this the wrong way, what you've suggested is precisely how I got started. What it left me wanting was measurement data for my own built creations because I always was left wondering "how does that actually measure?". Keep up the great work! 🍻
  13. Post some pictures of your cabinets, you're bound to get some great feedback here. Cheers.
  14. Given the investment need to build a system from scratch I'd like to highly recommend getting a DATS or woofer tester so that you can know for certain the specs of your drivers. I've been regularly surprised at how far off manufacturers specs can be from unit to unit. Good luck with your build.
  15. Hi Biver, I have a nice pair of KG 5.5's that came with zero bracing so that image is of my speakers. I've never had the pleasure seeing or hearing any KG 4.2's so I am assuming that these have no bracing like mine. There's quite a bit written about this out there. Here's an article in Stereophile you may find of interest on the topic... https://www.stereophile.com/features/806/index.html JBL have a tool called an interferometer for measuring cabinet deformation. This image is lifted from their M2 page on JBL Professional... Good luck!
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