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About Maz4bz

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  1. PVA - water soluble, non toxic, dries clear, forms a bond stronger (usually) than the timber. You can't use too much. Wipe up any runs with a damp cloth. Try not to clamp too tightly. You want some space for the glue to occupy. Clamping with too much force will simply squeeze out the glue leaving a weaker bond. I'd lay the cabinet down over some saw horses, apply glue then drop in the board. I'd clamp with some weights like a few medium weight house bricks to gently press down the board into the glue. I'd get under the cabinet and look up inside for glue runs and wipe these up as they appear. The saw horses will allow you access the interior from underneath. Good luck.
  2. Great plan, my advice however is to not flank the horn with woofers unless you are the only person in the room listening to your centre speaker and sitting straight ahead of it because you will get a response like the graph above; ie below the crossover the two woofers will be interfering with each other. Also you would likely create a very narrow high frequency listening window by orientating the horn like the C7 as it's dispersion is designed for the orientation the other way per the floorstander; ie wide horizontal, narrow vertical for controlled directivity. But whatever you do it'll be a great learning experience. Enjoy!
  3. If I may I'd like to suggest you orientate your drivers like this: Or kind a-like this.... 😉 Ideally you'd also roll off one woofer using a 2.5 way crossover to avoid the off axis cancelations you get from a 2 way like we showed happens with a "normal" horizontal center channel. A two way will probably work ok straight ahead, but the response off-axis will likely be negatively impacted like this.... The 2.5way crossover worked wonders with my KG 5.5's - think big-center-channel with two woofers but standing up rather than lying on its side. 🧐 Good luck! 🍻
  4. Love your work MechEngVic! Tracing is certainly one way of creating your own frequency and impedance files for X-Sim (or other tools). The other way is to get a mic and a DATS/Woofer tester and make your own. Relative to the cost of building/modding a system, getting the gear to actually measure is usually a small investment. For all the effort you'll go to - tracing, simulating and building - getting the measurement gear means you'll be able to validate what you've done has actually worked in the end. The key for me is setting the forward lobe - where the drivers sum on the vertical axis - is the hard part. This can only be done (as far as I'm aware) by actually measuring your drivers in the enclosure you have your drivers loaded into. Please don't take this the wrong way, what you've suggested is precisely how I got started. What it left me wanting was measurement data for my own built creations because I always was left wondering "how does that actually measure?". Keep up the great work! 🍻
  5. Post some pictures of your cabinets, you're bound to get some great feedback here. Cheers.
  6. Given the investment need to build a system from scratch I'd like to highly recommend getting a DATS or woofer tester so that you can know for certain the specs of your drivers. I've been regularly surprised at how far off manufacturers specs can be from unit to unit. Good luck with your build.
  7. Hi Biver, I have a nice pair of KG 5.5's that came with zero bracing so that image is of my speakers. I've never had the pleasure seeing or hearing any KG 4.2's so I am assuming that these have no bracing like mine. There's quite a bit written about this out there. Here's an article in Stereophile you may find of interest on the topic... https://www.stereophile.com/features/806/index.html JBL have a tool called an interferometer for measuring cabinet deformation. This image is lifted from their M2 page on JBL Professional... Good luck!
  8. This is common for KG's. Others have completely removed the rear panel by gently knocking on the inside of that rear panel all the way around the edges with a rubber mallet until it completely comes free. Then reglue once all your old glue is removed. I would highly recommend some shelf or other front to rear, side to side bracing while you are at it. Good luck!
  9. If you can get your hands on a measurement mic and measure the drivers in the enclosure without crossovers then you can post the measured response and you can get help here to address the top end balance. I had similar issues with my KG 5.5's so you may get some ideas looking at what I did there. Good luck and enjoy!
  10. The dip in the 1-2khz range would most likely be effectively dealt with by lowering the tweeter output to the same level. That could be as simple as a resistor or two in the tweeter circuit. To do this change the right way I'd need to measure both drivers without the crossover in place and then model the existing crossover in XSim as a baseline. From there it is a simple process to iterate some changes in the crossover schematic to see what works. This is the approach I took for improving my KG 5.5's. My friend that owns these has challenged me to do this for him. Perhaps I will someday.
  11. I'm intrigued that you'd want to mess with the crossover of these to bring them alive. These speakers already sound alive to me - they are just a little hot on the top end. Don't get me wrong, I really like these speakers alot. Horizontal measurements.... If I were to do anything with these I'd try to drop the output of the tweeter a little to bring up the bass in the mix. To do this accurately and retain the very nice off axis response you'd need to have good measurement gear and off axis measurements. I use a DIY turn table with 10 degree markings and Omnimic/Dats. RP-250C pictured on turn table... Vertical measurements of 160M (above/below) tweeter.... Measured resistance.... Keep up the experimenting and enjoy!
  12. The folly of a horizontal centre channel speaker.
  13. I think the first step is to buy yourself a measurement rig like Omnimic and measure the Fortes first to establish a baseline. Then make incremental changes and measure each change to quantify what your are doing. It's good to trust your ears but they can't tell you everything that is changing. You can change anything you want but splicing drivers, cabinets and crossovers I could not recommend without measurements. Speakers are called systems because the drivers position within the cabinet and their relationship to each other and the cabinet combine to create the sound you hear. The crossover is designed to tie this system of parts into a corherent whole. On that basis if you change the Fortes drivers, their position in relation to each other in the cabinet or the width of the cabinet the crossover will need to change. As I read down your list of changes I kept thinking - I'd need measurements to make that work, except for your first suggestion. I've not heard the Fortes but they are iconic. If you need to change up the Fortes that much I'd be inclined to sell them and build a proven DIY design that meets you design/listening goals. I'm all for improving speakers, my KG 5.5's have been a joy to update. But I simply could not have achieved much meaningful without measurements. But what ever you do, enjoy!
  14. I'm sure the RF-7's will be wonderful. I'd really love to get my measuring gear on the a pair to quantify the actual differences between the double 10" woofer Klipsch models. I just wish they'd set them up as 2.5way for the performance benefits of this! They must be a winning combo for klipsch or they wouldn't have been in their line for so long.
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