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Maz4bz

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Everything posted by Maz4bz

  1. Thanks for the feedback Harry. So glad you enjoyed the outcome. It's a big investment of time and effort to upgrade the KG's as we've done but the results, I feel, are warranted. In the meantime, I've been enjoying looking at looking at Erin's Audio Corner where he uses a Klippel nearfield scanner (worth $100k) which gives a full suite of measurements. Comparatively I look at the polar of a JBL 4329P, for example, and see terrific likeness with the KG's performance. What I'm trying to say, I guess, is that the performance achievable with the KG 5.5's very high for the entry price. Enjoy! 🍻
  2. Looks like you have a short circuit. It's pretty easy to do. I have! Always a good idea to measure before risking a nice amp like yours. I'd retrace all your solders to identify where it deviated from your plan. Good luck!
  3. What's the measured impedance/resistance at the speaker binding posts when the crossover is installed and all the drivers are connected?
  4. Sounds like an interesting plan, if you have measurement gear it might be worth it. Without measurement gear it'd be a bit like pin the tail on the donkey, so to speak. 😅 I would be surprised if you could hear a difference between an optimised KLF 10 with factory parts and a Frankenstein version, to be honest. In my opinion Klipsch used very good quality parts in these speakers and probably took great care to optimise the horn and driver combo. If it were me, I'd be using the Faital with a matching Faital horn in a new build and keeping the KLF factory, other than the crossover. Either way, good luck!
  5. Hi there, Looking at the brochure for the KLF 10 I'm going to say no it probably won't. The KG uses different drivers albeit I can see the tweeters use the same diaphragm. Naturally you can have a try and see if you like the result, the cost and effort is low and the modifications are completely reversible. For sure the KLF 10 is a two way like the KG 5.5 so changing to 2.5 will certainly assist. The only way to know for sure would be to measure the result once built up and compare to the original unmodified measured performance. Another KLF 10 owner made the L-pad modification that I did here (but tweaked to suit the KLF 10 crossover) and reported positive results, perhaps worth a read? Good luck and please do report back if you go ahead. 🍻
  6. It looks ideal in theory - I'm modelling using my KG 5.5 measurements. We need YOUR KG4 measurements for this to work. Without your measurements this is all just guess work. 🧐
  7. All good Matt, I would still be interested in your objectives here. Mine are to get the smoothest on and off axis response possible with highest efficiency - without too much cost in crossover parts. Updated now with 0.2mh on the .5 woofer....
  8. Hi Matt, I wonder if I've missed something but I am wondering what's your objective(s) here? When I saw that 500mh inductor on the lower woofer I figured I might model that and show what that kind of value is going to have on your system. So what I've done here is use Xsim and the measurements for my KG 5.5's to show what I mean. So obviously this isn't exactly what your KG4 will be doing. To model your KG4 accurately we'd need your frequency response measurements. But seeing as we don't it is still useful as an exercise to underscore that changing the crossover without measurements is, well, lets say problematic. Here is your modded crossover as I've translated it into Xsim.... Here's the modelled impedance curve (using KG 5.5 data).... Here's the modelled frequency response - black = system; yellow = tweeter; blue = upper woofer; green = lower woofer... So, that lower woofer is playing 40 db down. When I first modelled this I had the vertical scale set to 5db and thought I'd made a mistake because the lower woofer curve was missing! 40db down means it may as well not be connected. You won't hear anything from it! Plus that's a very expensive inductor if you can buy one? Not that you would want to. For comparisson sake here's the original KG4 crossover using my KG 5.5 data - purely acedemic naturally but thought I'd show it for completeness.... So back to my question, what's your objective here? Checking the impedance for its minimum is great for ensuring you're amp is going to be safe, but the impedance is just a small part of the picture. Without frequency response measurements I'm at a loss as to how you'll be able to arrive at a remotely workable crossover? I apologise if I am coming across as negative. That's not my intention. Cheers. 🍻
  9. I forgot you said you have the DATS - that's great! No idea how much mass to add but it'll be easy for you to determine. To do this measure a woofer with DATS and use the T&S specs you get with Hornresp or WinISD etc to model up the Dayton PR to get you how much mass to add to it. You could then use your mic to measure the speaker to compare modelled with the actual result to fine tune. Would be great for you to post the T&S data you take from your MidWest Audio 8" woofers into the Klipsch Impedance Curves thread for others to find too. Good luck! 🍻
  10. Looking fantastic Matt! Seeing as you've changed the woofers perhaps if you have trouble finding original passive radiators you might simply purchase a Dayton PR to fit and a calibrated mic so you can tune the PR to your taste but with a little data to help you dial in what you're hearing? The mic will take out the guess work and if you haul a cabinet outside you can easily take ground plane measurements to accurately verify your results. You could even use an Audyssey mic plugged into your PC with REW and get an accurate result - I've tried this and it works great. Good luck! 🍻 ...
  11. Dear all, another minor update - more data. I wanted to confirm the modelled WinISD bass response using the DATS measurements I'd taken from the woofers. Here's the modelled response of the two KG woofers showing a tuning frequency in the high 40hz with a 2.5db hump above this.... I recently had a chance to haul one of my KG's outside for some ground plain measurements. I wanted to see how the modelling compared to measured... This measurement approach enables a more accurate measurement of the bass response of a system. These are done at 1m with Omnimic.... Next is a series of distortion measurements at 5db intervals with reference to 100hz..... 95db: 100db: 105db: From this I think we can deduce that the 2.5 way alignment has strong bass response down to 30hz and is very clean/low distortion up to dangerously high SPL - remembering permanent hearing damage onset is 87db. In the years I've had my KG's I've had numerous speaker systems through my home, but I keep coming back to the KG's. They remain my reference speaker. 🙂 Cheers. 🍻
  12. I have this horn with a P-Audio BM-D450S. The horn is very well constructed. Measurements: Horizontal... Vertical: Distortion Energy storage Measurement setup - Omnimic with 5ms gating, driving an AX-550 with mic at 1m with turntable graduated in 10 degree increments.... BM-D450SMKII.pdf
  13. Maz4bz

    KG4 or KG5.5

    I'm a bit late to this thread but wanted to add that the KG5.5's can be absolutely superb loud speakers....
  14. KG5.5's are fine loud speakers that can be relatively easily upgraded into exceptional performers in my opinion....
  15. G'day Trong, The crossover order won't affect the efficiency, but the conversion to a 2.5 way crossover most certainly does. This is because the lower woofer now rolls off early leaving the upper woofer to handle the rest of the frequency range up to crossover point with the tweeter. In theory this change reduces the overall system efficiency by 3db. Oh and I don't believe this system was ever 98db, more like 93 in the low end, about 96 above crossover in original spec. Mine are about 90db now which is still quite efficient by non-horn loaded speaker standards. Cheers. 🍻
  16. The crossover is EVERYTHING to the final sound. As Dr Geddes says, drivers are commodity products, and that he can make any sound relatively great with a well designed crossover. Don't kid yourself that you can change the crossover effectively without measurements. This is like trying to drive a car with the windscreen blanked out. You can operate the contolls but you have no real way of knowing where you are going! Get some measurement gear. Post your measurements. There are many here that can help you once you start posting data and being scientific. Hang in there it's well worth the effort.
  17. Hi VDS, The crossover is what I think of as the soul of your speaker "system". I say system because all the parts of the speaker, including the cabinet and how the drivers are arranged in the cabinet form that system. If you change anything, you are likely going to need to revise the crossover. To do crossover modifications you must measure the speaker. To do this you need a mic and some software. Considering the cost of drivers and crossover parts the outlay (to me) is relatively small and can reap major benefits, ie help you find the true potential of your system. Once you've measured your system you need to get those measurements in to a crossover design software such as XSim or VituixCAD and begin designing. There's a learning curve for sure, but once you get through the jargon and understand the process its actually quite straight forward. Both of those threads are great places to understand it all. I have been through this process with my lovely KG 5.5's. The effort was well worth the improvement, to me. 😉 Good luck. 🍻
  18. Hi Randall, I'm no electronic engineer however I think the simple answer is yes, assuming that pot can dissipate the electrical load adequately. However I would only do this for R2 which gives the ability to tune the slope of the tweeters response. I would not replace or change R3. This would raise (or lower) the entire output of the tweeter and create a situation similar to the stock crossover where there would be a step up (or down) in the frequency response at crossover like this.... This would degrade the on and off axis response, which we want to avoid. You would see this in the polar response with a sharp break in directivity something like this .... Good luck and please post back what you find. Cheers. 🍻
  19. Hi Greg, Yes you certainly can add the resistor at the tweeter +ve. I created resistor modules of various values that I simply plugged in at the tweeter so I could easily adjust the attenuation on my KG 5.5s tweeter. Once I arrived at a sound I liked I just left that module in place. Regarding the deadening I'd suggest just doing one and then A-Bing the modded with unmodified speaker side by side - can you hear any difference? Good luck and let us know how you get on. Cheers.
  20. These are great speakers and with a little tweaking and be truely superb....
  21. PVA - water soluble, non toxic, dries clear, forms a bond stronger (usually) than the timber. You can't use too much. Wipe up any runs with a damp cloth. Try not to clamp too tightly. You want some space for the glue to occupy. Clamping with too much force will simply squeeze out the glue leaving a weaker bond. I'd lay the cabinet down over some saw horses, apply glue then drop in the board. I'd clamp with some weights like a few medium weight house bricks to gently press down the board into the glue. I'd get under the cabinet and look up inside for glue runs and wipe these up as they appear. The saw horses will allow you access the interior from underneath. Good luck.
  22. Great plan, my advice however is to not flank the horn with woofers unless you are the only person in the room listening to your centre speaker and sitting straight ahead of it because you will get a response like the graph above; ie below the crossover the two woofers will be interfering with each other. Also you would likely create a very narrow high frequency listening window by orientating the horn like the C7 as it's dispersion is designed for the orientation the other way per the floorstander; ie wide horizontal, narrow vertical for controlled directivity. But whatever you do it'll be a great learning experience. Enjoy!
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