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Ole Dollar

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Posts posted by Ole Dollar

  1. Idontknow, I did enjoy the review and the passion for our hobby, always nice to share. I too have a ST-70 and it is stock, I enjoy playing it. In comparing it to your ST-70 it's easy to see how modified it is including the solid-state rectifier. The important thing is you are enjoying it.

     

    I agree with The Dude on doing a vintage-to-vintage comparison and I would suggest the Mc 240, instead of the Mc 275, which is closer to the ST-70s output capability.

     

    Disclaimer: I have Mc 240s and Mc 30s and have yet to hear any modified ST-70 that I would prefer. I'm willing to learn.

     

    The ST-70 Hafler circuit is pretty amazing but the McIntosh circuits with the Unity Coupled transformers are the ones that make me happy - thanks.

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    • Thanks 1
  2. I'm using the 396s with 18" subs for a band I work with, they are a huge improvement over the previous speakers and many comment on the improvement. I have not had an issue with frequency response and with a mixing board , if I want more cymbal I just turn them up. I hope in the future we can get music we can mix our selves - 32 channels would be good.

    • Like 1
  3. I'm using a 40 watts per channel 6L6 based amp with Heresy 1s and a sub-woofer. Before the 6L6 amp I used a 3.5 watts per channel amp using two 6BQ5 tubes. The increase in power with the 6L6s was pretty noticeable at higher volumes which I almost never use. I agree with @Westcoastdrums I'm living in the first 5 watts. I would have moved back to the smaller amp but the larger amp has better sound quality everywhere it operates.

  4. On 4/23/2021 at 10:35 AM, steelgtr said:

    The 12ax7 is a Mullard too?

    All tubes are NOS Mullard - I asked the guy I buy tubes from for “the most tube sounding , non-solid state” combo I could get. He recommended the Mullards from the Blackburn plant. This combo really improve the Tubecube 7 well beyond what I expected. Unfortunately the Mullards cost close to what the amp does. Worth it, YES.

    • Like 1
  5. 18 hours ago, MeloManiac said:

    How do you connect a sub to the Tubecube? 

    My sub is a KSW15 and has low level RCA ins and outs. The RCA outs are filterable at 50 or 80Hz. So nothing below 80Hz going to Tubecube 7

     

    Tidal —> iPhone —> DAC —> Sub —>TC7 —> Heresy

    • Like 1
  6. I have a Tubecube 7 that has NOS Mullard EL84s and 12AX7. Playing through a pair of Heresy speakers and a subwoofer it sounds pretty amazing. Has a great 3D sound stage and good cymbal coverage. The sub picks up the lower frequencies  as the Tubecube is 3.5 watts per channel. Using a iFi DAC and iPhone for tunes. Have taken this setup on vacation with RB51ii bookshelf speakers, fits in a medium size bin. Really is a nice sounding amp and not a fan of the SINO tubes that come with it, amp really came alive when NOS Mullards installed.

    • Like 1
  7. While I do subscribe to the “Tim the tool man” approach - more power - I am courteous as to when you will drive the speakers with 2200 watts. I have done PA work for many years and have used 2000 watts to fill a large area which did not translate well to the home environment. 
     

    On a side note I tried a Crown 1500, first version of amp, on the bass bins and was disappointed in the sound stage at home, very flat, same with main speakers in PA use. The 1500 does work well as a subwoofer amp and is powering the 1502 sub I have. 
     

    Since you have the XLS 1002, third version of that amp, are you happy with the sound quality? 

  8. I went through something like this with the Jubilee bass bins. The McIntosh amps, 200w per channel x2 at 8 ohms,  I have are not capable of bridging with the two woofers in the bass bin so I asked Roy about running each woofer with a separate channel of the same amp. Not speaking for Roy on your question, he told me I had other issues and he did not recommend the 2 channel approach. Essentially 200w was plenty for the bass bin at home. I experimented with speaker position which did make it better. Chris A did help me with the DSP part. I was having lack of bass issues and was trying to use what I had to fix it - 2 of those Mac amps so trying to figure out how to bridge or use 2 channels on each bass bin. End result was speaker position and then adding a 1502.

     

    is there a problem you are trying to fix?

    • Like 1
  9. 12 minutes ago, rigma said:

    I beg to differ.  We got 20hz- 0db & 18.9 -3db with +13db @ 20hz PEQ on Xilica


    Please put the 20 Hz PEQ settings in this thread as I am interested in trying them.

     

    Also agree, that is not a mid-bass cabinet. 

  10. The best center channel speaker for a Forte IV is a Forte IV, the best for a Cornwall IV is another Cornwall IV. I went down this path with the Chorus II when talking to Chief Bonehead - he said another Chorus II for the center is best. So I not holding my breath on the center channel speaker. As for subwoofer I recommend a 1502. Tried non-horn loaded sub’s with fully horn loaded speakers and was never satisfied - like adding mud when using a direct radiating sub. Admittedly I mostly listen to music and in stereo, have a separate home theater system for movies.

     

    P.S. Yes I know Chorus II’s are not fully horn loaded. 

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