Alexander
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Posts posted by Alexander
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Picked up a pair of klf-30's that had been stored for a good number of years. After a few weeks of playing the highs were way too harsh. So all xover caps were replaced and that took care of the problem.
Shortly after that I put in Crites Ti's as well as cleaning out/replaced the old ferro fluid with a kit from PE. This calmed/smoothed things out even further and have stayed with this setup for the last 4 years or so.
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Thank you for the clarification
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On 2/12/2022 at 11:33 PM, Crankysoldermeister said:
Polypropylenes are a little brighter, but the sound has always seemed cleaner to me.
Are you comparing those to the OEM “yellow” polyester caps?
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On the chance you still have the baskets you could have them re coned here: https://reconingspeakers.com/ I had them do my pair of f2's and they looked exactly like the originals.
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40 minutes ago, EpicKlipschFan said:
on these 500s all inner seams have a heavy coating of the hot glue klipsch used in other models of this era like KGs & KLFs, they are sealed & make full contact everywhere, no bracing just some ~2" long blocks of wood placed around the seams. i hope they dont have bad glue or the loose front/rear boards that some KGs & many KLFs had.
You may have already done this but with a light source shine the light from the inside out to check. In my case there was an ample bead of glue applied on the motor board but it did not make contact with the cabinet walls. So I used the Gorilla original formula expanding glue on all seams since I was in there.
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On a pair of T-5000's the motorboard had contact with the cabinets ~ 10-15%, only at the four mounting blocks. I resealed the entire cabinets and this made quite a noticeable difference in bass.
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a favorite
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Captain obvious here – has he tried different sources?
But on the other had my set of KLF-30's developed this when I started to up the volume past say low background music levels. I chased down all my gear to find I had issues with the xovers. Chose to leave the OEM xo's intact and built a set of OEM based xovers which solved the problem.
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I would reconsider attempting to remove anything off the OEM PCB other than the autotransformers & caps*. There is a good chance some parts will be damaged beyond repair. The added cost of new inductors is worth the assurance that the OEM xovers are still on hand if need be. As for wire gauge, 16awg pure copper wire, no CCA (coper clad aluminum) would be fine JMO.
* You are most likely not wanting to re-use these though.
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49 minutes ago, Crankysoldermeister said:
The plots show some differences in the frequency response but not sensitivity. So I say “no”. Like I said, I made no changes at all.
Thanks again
saves me $67 not needing the two 3uF caps.
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5 hours ago, Crankysoldermeister said:
With the 3636 I build 4dB down.
Input tap X, output tap 3.
If you do this, you can use a single 10uF capacitor.
Wow, thanks Deang for the tip. And you meantiond that going to the a55g 1st gen over the k55v would not need any type of changes.
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In the past I have tried bi-wiring many different speakers & wire combos. And IMHO unless you are using a wire gauge that is too small for your wire load/run it made no difference what so ever. Now if you were to bi-amp we are talking about another thing all together.
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I just priced the PPT Theta caps at PE for the AA xover. Depending on how you “make up” the values for the 13uf cap it came out to be ~$300 for a complete set. I am considering going this route for a pair of 1975 LS along with 3636's and better gauge/quality inductors.
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1 hour ago, Crankysoldermeister said:
Just not as robust as some others. No lead should be exposed to rough handling or radiused multiple times.
thanks for the clarification
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25 minutes ago, EpicKlipschFan said:
so is the a55g better than the k55v? i thought all crites products were inferior according to one guy???
Yea there are some folks that feel that way with any deviation from stock factory parts.
When they were put into a set of KLF-30's it was clearly an upgrade from the OEM K52H drive it replaced.
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48 minutes ago, Crankysoldermeister said:
Slight variations in frequency response aside, all of these drivers have essentially the same sensitivity. I dropped mine in without feeling the need to make any changes. I really wouldn't worry about it.
Thanks Deang,
also was it you that mentioned that the PPT Theta cap leads were extremely fragial? Or was that a different cap?
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Thanks for all the replies
I am a little confused based on what I have read in the past on this topic. What I saw seemed to suggest that you would have to make changes in the crossover when going between the K55V and the K55M (or vice versa). So I guess what I am asking is the A55G* more akin to the K55V than the K55M?
Just trying to figure it all out so I don't have to open it up more than once if I can avoid it...
*1st Gen
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Getting ready to change out the OEM k55v's with a55g's in a pair of 1975 LS. Would one need to adjust the 3636 autotransform from the stock -3db on the AA xover? And if so to what attenuation?
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Congrats, so glad to hear they were legit. Dust caps have no effect on the quality of sound, just aesthetics. So I would not knock yourself out if the looks are OK with you. So enjoy them for a bit and then look into replacing the caps in the xovers. They do not need to be anything special, just a set of Dayton would be a nice improvement with out a lot of cash outlay. Those OEM caps are over 40 years old.
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I hope you are right. Have you at least seen some pics. the ones in the ad are not what they claim to be selling.
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Something fishy about this. The pic shows forte III's or IV's. I live ~15 miles from their store and I will not go there to see them, But if someone does and they are real then it would be a great deal.
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I wanted to provide you with my two cents on something to be aware of/be on the lookout for.
The original woofers were, I believe, K48k/e if I remember correctly. If you are looking at the speaker, make sure that you are checking the woofers to insure that they are the originals—they cannot be rebuilt and are not made any more. Per my knowledge there is not a “true” replacement drivers available. You'd need to look for some taken off another set of Chorus' if needed.
Don't want to scare you away, but thought you should be aware of this because I'd hate for you to invest the money in a set of Chorus and it not be as expected.
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KLF-20 sibilance and sharpness - would a tweeter diaphragm upgrade maybe help?
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
5,000 miles or around every 20 years, which ever comes first
I found a metric crescent wrench speeds up the job nicely 