Alexander

14ga or better would be fine, be sure it is pure copper wire - do not get any CCA (copper clad aluminum) wire. You may have to look hard to make sure. If the wire is clearly cheaper than ones that state they are pure copper than it's most likely CCA. Another vote for Blue Jeans cable, that is what I use.

Your ~$1000 budget should get you in the forte I/II or klf-20 maybe klf-30s range in most parts of the USA 48*. Chorus I/II's are heavy hitters in the bass department as well as the Cornwallis and expect to see more $$$ for them. If space is a concern the Chorus and even more so the Cornwalls are large speakers. * Deals do show up but you just have to be on the lookout and be ready to jump on them. As an example it took ~six months but got a set of forte II's for $400 and about the same amount of looking to find a mint set of klf-30's w/OEM boxes for $900.

If you were to look at the xover PCB trace side you would find the green wire is attached to the same negative/ black wire trace going to the mid range driver. Which in-turn leads to the negative binding post on the cup.

The KG series are nice but they were the entry level model line that Klipsch offered at that time. It would only make sence to look to the Heresy, forte, Cornwall/Chorus or KLF-20/30 models. If bass is important the Heresy are a bit shy in that area though. With your ~$1000 price point you should be able to find something nice with a bit of patience and perseverance.

Are you happy with the way your system sounds? Is there something you feel is lacking? If not then there is absolutely noting wrong with what you have now.

The original k52h drivers used in the klf-20/30's are actually the exact same being used in the k53/57/61k (and others). All you would need to be able to use them one would remove the four screws that hold the horn mounting flange of each magnet assembly and change them out.. The diaphragms are interchangeable as well, but I would use them in matched pairs (i wouldn't use one OEM KLF & one from another series like a k61k) . Or better yet if you find you need to replace one get a new pair if you can afford them. Also avoid using the Ti mid version. The gasket with the larger open hole is the OEM for the KLF's. The one with the smaller opening is what you would get if you were to order new replacement gaskets from Crites.

That price point puts the CW IV's out of reach for me

If you want to keep your C7 then consider: recap all three xovers Crites Ti diaphragms & re-oil all three of your k79k tweets Crites a55g's to replace your OEM k52H mids

https://lakeland.craigslist.org/ele/d/lakeland-hi-end-hi-fi-gear-audiophile/7303812092.html

New price $200

https://fortmyers.craigslist.org/lee/hsh/d/fort-myers-klipsch-speakers/7289279996.html

https://miami.craigslist.org/mdc/ele/d/miami-klipsch-speakers/7297918470.html

https://miami.craigslist.org/brw/ele/d/hollywood-klipsch-kg45-pair/7300167623.html

https://orlando.craigslist.org/ele/d/orlando-klipsch-chorus-ii-tower-speakers/7300338689.html

My T-5000s has two pieces of foam per cabinet

What are the length and gauge of your speaker wires? Your avr-x3100w is rated at 105wpc into 8 ohms, 8 ohms should be the reference point to measure all amps. I have been running my avr-x3200w since ~2015 driving klf-30s & klf-c7 + various surround speakers with out a hitch. I does get warm but no more than the rest of my gear. Did you by chance have your avr in a closed-in environment like a cabinet? Or say having less than ~3“ of open air space above the unit? Emotiva suggested I have 12” of open air space min above my xpa-1s – granted we are talking about a lot of power but I think you got the idea. Would like to hear how you like your Crown amp.

I should point out that another member here found the screen under/behind the dust cover had some how got loose and it would buzz from time to time.

I recently went through the same ordeal with a klf-30 woofer. I had found the dust cap was loose & the plastic ring was also causing a buzz. It turned out two of the four woofer mounting screw holes were 'soft'. So it appeared they did not hold the plastic woofer ring down tight enough. So all drivers were removes on both speakers and used wood glue and toothpicks to “rebuild” all screw holes. And in my case that was the end of the problem. Note: I had reglued the cabs seams ~two years before.

https://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/ele/d/framingham-klipsch-kp-301-musicians/7290720813.html

https://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/ele/d/dorchester-center-used-vintage-klipsch/7281511591.html

https://maine.craigslist.org/ele/d/windham-klipsch-cornwall-iv-walnut/7288132962.html

https://nashville.craigslist.org/msg/d/murfreesboro-klipsch-model-h700-heresy/7271030939.html

https://huntsville.craigslist.org/ele/d/decatur-single-new-klipsch-rp-8000f/7280290703.html

over priced ~$250 IMO https://bham.craigslist.org/ele/d/crossville-vintage-klipsch-quartet/7285763531.html

opps - I fix