Godataloss

Wonder if it's enough to do my Khorn top hats?

Really nicely voiced speakers. The tweeters are crap, but the woofers make nice smooth bass and the midranges are pretty great actually- wonderful for reproducing stringed instruments especially and blues guitar. Probably $450 in drivers in that cab. Pretty easy sell on ebay.

Hey, I'm not afraid of a little mouse pee (they can climb literally anything btw). Just making an observation. Also I love me some Bozak too. I've got a minty pair of 302 Urbans with glass tops in the stockpile. Keep up the good work

I can smell the mouse pee from here.

Just make sure you hook them both up the same way. What you should put on the cabinets is determined by what the factory finish is. Post a pic of the wood and the label (label has veneer and finish info)

Check your pm's.

What did you replace with them?

That's actually how my '79 Ramblin' Rose Khorns were made. Nice job with these Craigtone- GLWYS

What does 'composite' mean?

Imaging wise? They have a very open sounds stage- far more than the stock k77 or Beymas. No 'head in a vise' effect if that's what you mean. It's difficult to describe and I'm still acclimating to them. Their radiation pattern seem far more even in the room. It also feels like there is more treble energy in the room at lower volume levels maybe due to their higher extension. My wife even commented on it- that there is more 'information' at lower volumes.

I've sold a bunch of unused gear and miscellaneous stuffs from the horde this summer so I had some extra $ in the hifi fund. Decided to pull the trigger on these. Running them with my Khorns using Volti VX crossovers and the BMS 4592nd mid. So far I've just tried to visually align them with the midrange drivers and the results have been pretty wonderful. They replaced the Beyma cp25s and I just didn't realize how badly the Beymas were stepping on that midrange. What these tweeters don't do is as impressive as what they do. It's like a new window has been opened up in all my favorite recordings. You can hear the musician in space, their breath interacting with the microphone, the fabric of their clothing rustling. They have an open sound like a soft dome or electrostat without all that artificial air that I feel they sometimes impart. There is no coloration. Nothing extra. Anyway, my hyperbole aside, any tips on living with these monsters? Crossovers will probably have to be tweaked somewhere down the line, but I would really like to go active at some point to time-align everything. I like what my ears are telling me so far though.

Following with interest to perhaps make some Cornscalas of my own from my various pieces/parts lying around here.

Black Chorus for $1500? Not that I've ever seen...

They're clearly Klipschornwalls.

More than I paid for Khorns...

There is a gentleman that is remaking them in North Carolina I believe. I have his contact information, but I haven't gone any farther than a couple email exchanges. I was quoted $200 per cab which I think is probably too reasonable for me to mess around with making a pair for my 210f's. I may be trading these so the cases are on hold atm. His contact info- Joe Cartwright 417-932-4460

Indeed. It's only original once. This is not a restoration in my opinion (which doesn't count either).

If you're going to bother with a new horn, do yourself a favor and go to a 2 inch driver.

I know where one of these is. It was purchased with a Tannoy Silver (iirc) in it.

Probably a scam. Ebay is likely the largest global money laundering service.

~$2300

I need this in my life...

It's amazing to me how often I see the suggestion to use Howard's products in speaker circles. You will never see them recommended in woodworking circles or proper furniture restoration forums. Howard's products, especially Feed -n- Wax are not wood finishes. The are soft waxes with various solvents and distillates that provide no protection to the wood surface. Restore-a-finish is loaded with solvents that will actually eat the existing finish. BE VERY CAREFUL WITH IT! This isn't typically a problem with an oiled Klipsch speaker since the original oil finish is within the wood. It penetrates and oxidizes in the wood to protect it (which is why it's the best type of finish for this applications and you want to duplicate it). Howard's products are the darlings of the antique world because they are simple to use, provide immediate visual results (so would rubbing with olive oil) and are used on finishes that are typically well worn and dirty. You can slather it on without cleaning and especially in the case of Feed n Wax- it has the fresh lemony scent and it's shiny! It does nothing to protect the wood and in fact like Pledge or anything else you find in the super market, it will have to be removed before a proper finish can be applied. You are much better off simply cleaning the surface with mineral spirits and 0000 steel wool than using Restore a finish. The cardinal rule in approaching an existing finish is 'do no harm'. Restore a finish is like starting with a nuclear bomb. With an oil finish you simply want to clean off the surface so that the next oil finish you apply can penetrate the wood grain, oxidize and protect the wood. Using Feed -n- Wax is like rubbing mayonaise on the speaker. It will make it shiny. It will blend scratches. What it wont do is cure into a dry protective finish. In fact it will sit on the surface, remain wet and tacky and collect dust and fingerprints like crazy. So after you clean them, use an oil finish like they do at the Klipsch factory when your speakers were born. I recommend the 'natural' (colorless) danish oil if you are not trying to blend in existing finish damage. An oil finish will naturally darken over time, no need to add additional color. Apply it according to manufactures directions. Flood the surface and keep applying until it stops absorbing over the course of an hour or so. Then wipe it dry with a clean cotton rag. Let it cure at least 24 hours- longer if it's cooler weather or high humidity. Give plenty of time between coats- at least 24 hours. The finish has to oxidize. If you apply an additional coat too early it will start to get gummy and you will have to start over with the mineral spirits and 0000 steel wool. 2 or 3 coats should be plenty. With the last coat wipe with the grain and leave it undisturbed for a couple of days to really harden. Properly applied this finish will only need to be touched up every few years. Each coat will increase the durability of the finish. I'm not here to argue about this. This information is no different than you would hear in any respectable wood working or furniture restoration forum where Howard's products are an ongoing joke. An oil finish is easy if you follow the steps and more importantly beautiful and durable.

Which is why I add quaternary ammonium to my cleaning solution. Even without it, ultrasonic removes coulomb induced forces in records. I have hardwood floors throughout my house so there is no carpet to catch dust so airborne dust is a concern and it's easy to see the effect. This is why the vacuuming methods are not suitable. They induce a charge. Any other cleaning method than ultrasonic is a half measure.

With aniline dyes and them being so light, you could make them any color you want. I'm sure you're probably hesitant since they are in such nice shape though. Something unconventional might be really cool- you can do deep blues and reds, hell even purple with the black would probably look killer. I've never been a fan of the light oak, but every pair of speakers I've ever gotten with oak veneer has been in too good of shape and hasn't needed refinishing to try something like that.