Klipsch-Meister

Why do you need an AVR for the garage?...seems like a waste of functions if just for audio. Yamaha makes several network capable Stereo Receivers: R-N301, R-N303, R-N402, R-N602, R-N803...some of which have YPAO capability too.

The new angled base plinths may look good now, but they are going to take a beating from vacuums, "swiffers", and the like, causing them to chip and show their age prematurely. I think that this is a clear example of "cost savings" designed to look like an "aesthetic/sonic" improvement. And what is with those tiny, cheap, self-adhesive, rubber feet? I've got bookshelf speakers that came with better rubber pads. Those tiny pads are going to detach/shift rather quickly under such a heavy load, especially when attached to the spike sockets as Youthman did in his unpacking video. A speaker of this caliber should come equipped with molded rubber feet with integral studs that thread into the spike sockets. Then you could adjust for floor irregularities....JMHO...

Is this what you had in mind? Although, this might more correctly be called "Xeno-partialism"

"The primary role of the enclosure is to prevent sound waves generated by the rearward-facing surface of the diaphragm of an open speaker driver interacting with sound waves generated at the front of the speaker driver. Because the forward- and rearward-generated sounds are out of phase with each other, any interaction between the two in the listening space creates a distortion of the original signal as it was intended to be reproduced. As such, a loudspeaker cannot be used without installing it in a cabinet of some type, or mounting it into a wall or ceiling. Additionally, because the sound waves would travel different paths through the listening space, the sound waves in an unmounted speaker would arrive at the listener's position at slightly different times, introducing echo and reverberation effects not part of the original sound." I think that you will find the links below interesting: https://www.fernandroby.com/products/details/the-beam-tower-speakers (Directly related to your woodworking hobby.) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Loudspeaker_enclosure

http://office.manualsonline.com/manuals/mfg/monster/hdp_1800.html?p=13 If you lost your manual, try this link...page 13 addresses the resetting procedure (download the .pdf version). It sounds like your surge protector is doing what it is supposed to as the result of a surge or overload and that you just need to reset it.

In my opinion, almost anything is an upgrade compared to the "lifeless" Paradigm dome tweeters in the CC-350. Klipsch titanium diaphragm horns make for an incredibly life-like centre channel speaker. I'm looking to upgrade my CC-350 as well with a better timbre match to my RF-82ii mains. However, I haven't seen any good sales on either the RP-440C or RP-450C in Canada. Where in Canada have you been looking RyanD? Until a good deal comes around, I can make do, as my Yamaha receiver has centre-channel-equalization for timbre matching...

It would be hard to beat a Yamaha combo consisting of the A-S801 Integrated Amp (100 wpc) and CD-S300 CD Player with USB memory stick capability. Both would conveniently run from the same remote included with the Amp. The Yamaha R-S700 Receiver (100 wpc) would actually be less expensive and offers similar performance to the integrated amp. I have the R-S700 and CD-S300 combo and the RF-82II speakers in my listening room...great combination, and my stand-alone output meters show that the receiver barely breaks a sweat. Even at high volumes, the speakers rarely see more than 15 actual watts.

In theory, yes, but I do not believe that the Eminence 7308 woofers you would be modifying have the proper outer suspension to provide enough compliance (travel). Ideally, you would need something with a neoprene (or similar material) rolled rubber surround like the Chorus II radiators shown in the post by wvu80. Then there is the issue of tuning the cone with weight(s) to provide the proper resonance frequency. You may need to add a plywood plug to the center tube on which you could bolt washers for weight (no more than an ounce or two)...typically starting low and working your way up.

If the transformer is still in the circuit, then that is your problem. I'm assuming you got them for a cheap price as used speakers, so I would risk taking the drivers out from the front to sort out the wiring. Try to take the transformer out of the circuit and wire them direct. Your other option is to purchase a commercial 70v amp, but that will be more "$pendy". And then you would still need to sort out the individual settings for each transformer. The variable transformer settings are there to prevent line loss from long wire runs and the first speaker may need to be set to step up the voltage and subsequent speakers down the line may need to have the voltage stepped down (or visa versa...I'm no electronics expert).

I think that you would need a 70v commercial amp if you are using the step-down transformers on each speaker. I'm not familiar with 70v speakers, but there is supposed to be a switch on the front of the IC-6t to select 8 ohm operation. Even set at 8 ohm your amp wouldn't like the voltage requirements due to the transformers. Does the switch also allow you to bypass the transformer, or do you just have the choice between 70v and 100v operation? Can you totally bypass the transformers and then hook up the speakers in parallel? Then your amp should only see an 8 ohm load even if the individual speakers are still 16 ohm.

Juice79, Even though the Yamaha RX-A2050 is now a discontinued product, it probably has the better warranty and better customer reviews. Yamaha's Aventage series receivers are warrantied for 3 years in the USA and 4 years in Canada.

http://hometheaterhifi.com/reviews/video-player/universal/yamaha-bd-a1060-universal-blu-ray-player-review/ This review seems pretty favorable for that universal player. And, if I'm not mistaken, Yamaha's Aventage Series products generally have a longer warranty period than the comparable Yamaha items (at least in Canada).

That may have been true to some extent years ago, but no longer. Philips was only associated with Marantz from 1980 to 2008. Philips has since sold its holdings in the company. Now only Denon and Marantz products may have some shared engineering. As a side note: The other recent merger of Audio companies means that some Onkyo and Pioneer audio electronic products are virtually identical. Many of their products now contain the same interior topography/components and have identical back panels.

Tpjrs, I find that my new Yamaha CD-S300BL has great sound and tremendous imaging for the price (Massively discounted to $275 Canadian or $223 USD). I'm hearing more ambient sound from the studio and other small details in the recordings than even my expensive, but much older Onkyo Integra DX-708 is capable of. The Yamaha seems better as well for solid and tight bass reproduction. It conveniently runs with the same remote from my Yamaha R-S700 Receiver. It has an interesting feature called: Selectable Pure Direct Output (Analog Only) for a cleaner signal to your receiver. I also use this in conjunction with the Selectable CD Direct Amp feature on the Yamaha Receiver for the simplest, purest signal path. And lastly, it will play files from a USB Thumbdrive or USB type devices. Main Drawbacks (at least, for me): The CD-S300BL is much slower to load and respond to commands than many older, full-feature players. Fast Forward or Reverse is incredibly slow. It has no headphone jack or variable volume output (but lack of variable output can also mean a cleaner, undistorted signal path to your receiver or amp.) It also has a tiny minimalist display and only essential controls...no bells or whistles.

Mike, It is possible that your tweeters were damaged from voltage leakage from your GFA-5500. Adcom amps from that era are prone to capacitor leakage that can lead to all sorts of problems and collateral damage. I had an Adcom GFA-585 Limited Edition (250 WPC) that nearly destroyed the woofers in my PSB Stratus Gold i speakers from over-excursion during powering up and powering down. The leaky capacitors can cause massive voltage leakage which destroys voice coils. Depending on the layout of your Adcom's circuit boards, the fluid from the original capacitors is especially corrosive and can etch the boards, destroying conductive paths or creating shorts. You can normally tell that the capacitors are leaking if you hear your speakers pop when turning the amp on or off. Also, when Adcom capacitor fluid leaks onto circuit boards it has the distinct smell of rotting fish. You will want to Re-Cap before it is too late and the circuit boards are damaged irreparably. There are a few shops that specialize in Re-Capping and Refurbishing Adcom amps, but the cost can run from $300 to $500 depending on the amp model and the amount of damage. Hopefully this helps you to diagnose your problem and spare you from further expensive damage.