Biscuit
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Posts posted by Biscuit
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5 minutes ago, Dneu2011 said:
The normal amp camps from diy audio with external power supplies as monoblocks state 16 watts in bridged, XLR, or parallel ( 4 ohm).
these should give more power with the upgraded PSU. Although, Nelson rates his amps much lower than the power they put out.
I had a class A/B amp rated at 120 watts into my Harbeth speakers. All these amps I built with the upgraded power supplies to me sounded just as loud if not better.
I no longer own that Class A/B amp!
if I had to guess, I would say 20 watts Class A as monoblocks.
Thanks, I built the 8w x 2 ACA with the 24v wallwart. Love it, but need 20 of Nelson's watts to be fully happy with my bass place on my Chorus IIs.
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How many watts are those mono amps you just built with the psu putting out.
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Gorgeous. Might want to post pics of inside showing the work done. May help you sell it.
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3 hours ago, RandyH000 said:
Did you re-use the original dust cap -
I did. I used a plastic cheese knife to slowly remove it with no damage to either it or the cone.
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22 hours ago, moray james said:
that's good for you. Make sure that you glue the screen back over the pole piece vent hole (where it came from) or your speaker will have different characteristics from all the others.
Yep, I did that.
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I can now confirm that this was the noise. Fixed now. Thanks all for the advice, and input and pics!
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21 hours ago, dtr20 said:
Please remove the woofer and inspect woofer before removing the dust cap, unless you know for a fact the dust cap is loose. If the inner screen is loose under the dust cap, it will rattle when you shake the woofer while holding it in your hands. If this is the case, get some long tweezers to remove it. If you want to replace it, I put mine in the same area, but in back of the magnet with cement glue.
I didn't see this until after removing dustcap.
Not sure I would have been able to get it from behind though.
It had gotten around the dust cap and was against the cone as seen in these pics.
Pretty sure this was causing the noise, not the dustcap which had a lifted edge, but did not seem to be completely unglued where the edge was.
Question1. Best way to remove residual glue?
Question2. Mixed clear epoxy ok for gluing the screen back on ?
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22 hours ago, Iteachstem said:
It's the edges that comes loose on the dustcaps...so, pushing in the center doesn't really do anything. Check the edges on the dustcap... sometimes you can get a fingernail under it...if so, it needs to be removed and re-glued. I used 5 minute epoxy, so it will never come off as you can't really rebuild these drivers. (See my other posts on how this was done on my 5.5's)
I saw your post on the KG 5.5's. What did you do to remove the dustcaps completely? I don't know if to try a razor blade or heat or just pull after I get a lip up?
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13 hours ago, Alexander said:
I recently went through the same ordeal with a klf-30 woofer. I had found the dust cap was loose & the plastic ring was also causing a buzz. It turned out two of the four woofer mounting screw holes were 'soft'. So it appeared they did not hold the plastic woofer ring down tight enough. So all drivers were removes on both speakers and used wood glue and toothpicks to “rebuild” all screw holes. And in my case that was the end of the problem.
Note: I had reglued the cabs seams ~two years before.
Thanks! I will look for this when I remove the driver.
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12 hours ago, Iteachstem said:
It's the edges that comes loose on the dustcaps...so, pushing in the center doesn't really do anything. Check the edges on the dustcap... sometimes you can get a fingernail under it...if so, it needs to be removed and re-glued. I used 5 minute epoxy, so it will never come off as you can't really rebuild these drivers. (See my other posts on how this was done on my 5.5's)
I also have some excellent condition OEM k-31-K woofers from a KLF 30 if you want to replace the entire woofer. I think 2 are spoken for, another one that's pending, but I have at least one that's still available for sure. Let me know.
Thanks for the reply! Please do hold the last one for me in case I can't fix. If you need me to buy outright, let me know. Feel free to send me a DM.
I ordered some speaker glue, and will check the mounting screws, the spider, and the dustcap seal itself in the next two days. The dustcap seal is coming up on that driver, but wasn't sure if it was detached all the way through.
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1 hour ago, Lbk said:
Not sure if this would work. Maybe you could fold a piece tape gentle push it on cap then pull on it to see if cap rises.
If you push on speaker cone do heard any scraping noise, voice coil?
From the video the bottom left edge of dust cover looks loose?
No. Pushing in on the dustcap is noiseless. And does not seem to affect noise when playing. I too, noticed that it seems to be separating on the lower left, but not sure if it really is. Will oder the glue.
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1 minute ago, Lbk said:
Looks like dust cap is loose and buzzing, will have to be glued. Might as well check cabinet's for leaks also. When I did my klf 10's I took out a woofer and gentle pulled on motherboard then pushed on back cabinet board. Both where loose and had to be reglued.
Others will join in and may have a better idea on how to check for leaks. Good luck!
That is what I thought, but pushing down pretty hard on dustcap doesn't seem to mitigate the buzzing much.
Is there a good glue recommended to bind these two pieces of Poly together?
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Good morning fellow Klipsch lovers. I have a problem, and need your expertise on diagnosing.
I bought a pair of KLF30s this weekend. Listened briefly in his home an hour away, and didn't notice any issues.
After I got home, I hooked them up and after about 1 hour of listening (80-90db, sounded great), I noticed some vibration/buzzing from one of woofers on one speaker. Don't know if I broke something loose or what, but I was NOT driving them hard; although it was with deeply pronounced bass tracks.
I read about issues with Baffles on these, so I pressed hard on all front/rear wood with no change in the offending sound.
If I push on the dustcap, it "might" attenuate the buzzing, but only if pressed quite hard where the overall movement of the diaphragm is substantially hindered.
I've recorded sound here so you can hear it. Do I need a new woofer? I understand they are unobtanium, but asked in modification/KLF30post on this forum if any had one from updating to HW321 drivers.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/PmJ1ZXXoYXXeYjxm9
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Looking for a driver to replace a bad one on my KLF30s. I think these are K-31-K ? I just need one. Hoping someone that did the HW321 upgrades has one they can let go of.
Thanks!
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Those are nice looking. Where are you located?
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This is similar to what what I detailed here in this post:
Glad you didn't fall for it!
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13 minutes ago, WMcD said:
I would strongly suggest you use the 4 ohm output terminals on the McIntosh. The K-Horn goes down to that impedance in the bass and using 8 ohm or 16 ohm output terminals could very well cause the protection circuit to trip.
WMcD
Thanks WMcD. Can other Khorn owners chime in with whether they hook them up in 4 ohm?
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38 minutes ago, mikebse2a3 said:
When using the jumpers for LF and HF input then which ones you connect the amplifier to doesn’t matter because they would be in parallel electrically speaking.
Which version of the MC275 does he have..?
It is the new one re-leased 3-4 years ago.
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24 minutes ago, PrestonTom said:
It is hard to tell from the pictures. What one would be worried about is if the "plus" was seeing the "minus". If that was the case, then the amp would have choked immediately. Did you get a more specific diagnosis from the technicians?
I'll check.
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I was able to finally find this: https://f072605def1c9a5ef179-a0bc3fbf1884fc0965506ae2b946e1cd.ssl.cf2.rackcdn.com/product-manuals/Klipschorn-2019_Manual_p04.pdf
Looks like slightly different version of posts, where they weren't aligned on the same horizontal. But...it looks like single ampflications needs to come in on the HF in, not LF in?
That shouldn't matter right? They are bridged.
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My father bought Khorns as a second owner 2.5 years ago and was told they were 2 years old. So I think they should be in the 2014 range for age, give or take a year or two. He bought a new generation McIntosh 275 tube amplifier and it would go into a fault protection if he turned it up too loud.
Given his level of listening is lower than mine, and they didn't actually sound more than ~ 100db sound levels, I thought that something was probably wrong with the 275. Fast foward 2 years and after a few more faults at levels that I would not consider super loud, it blew a channel. Right channel stopped working. The unit was still under warranty and went to get repaired for free from McIntosh. Unit comes back, sounds great. He turns it up again, and it blows out. Best Buy Magnolia says, sorry, we'll order you a new one. That one should come Thursday.
It got me to wondering if perhaps the 3 speakers on the Khorn weren't hooked up or bridged correctly for single amplification. I had him take the following pics, to see if one of you could verify that they were correct or incorrect. Serial number too.
Thanks for the help. I would hate to have him lose another 275 for wiring his Khorns wrong! The input comes in on LF IN from the Amp via a bananna plug.
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12 hours ago, rplace said:
If you are still looking I have near perfect Forte II. Original owner, with original boxes and some paperwork/glossy adverts. I'm not really in your Raleigh-Knoxville range but on the east coast north of Baltimore close enough to D.C. and Philly. If interested and your travels bring you close by let me know via PM. I'm not actively selling but would like to see them land in a good home that would appreciate and love them like I have. Lots of sentimental value, but never use them anymore.
That is hard to pass up! If I head north anytime in the future, I'll send you a PM!
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FYI Folks.
Link here to my post that was a result of a scammer scrolling through forums and finding a target.
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Little long here, but wanted to alert others to this kind of scam that happened to me last night and this morning.
- I am relatively new here, and posted on these forums about some speakers and stereo equipment wanted for a relative.
- Two nights ago I get a nice message saying he knew of a guy (Mark) that had one and to email him. See SS below
- Without thinking I write Mark and go to bed
- Mark writes back this morning to my request for pics and information about a stellar deal!
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So I was excited at first. 325 shipped for a gorgeous 7070. But some red flags...
- Bitcoin? ( I know this one is possible, just rare )
- Stermor3 (on these forums) has zero rep and joined the forums about 90 minutes before he sent me the private message
- Agent working with UPS?
- Price?
So I look up address....doesn't exist
So I do a reverse image search on the pics....google doesn't find them but says its probably a receiver....good job google
So I just key in Sansui 7070 and pull up images.. BINGO
I get a seller on REVERB in Prague.... https://elektro.bazos.cz/inzerat/105829602/Sansui-7070-receiver.php
Thought I would share. It is a pretty piece though right?
Just wished I had used a throw-a-way email to be safer.
-Biscuit
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Pass DIY builds for sale... Having first baby! All must go..
in Garage Sale
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I only built one and run it in stereo. I'd love the link to the PSU to build. I find all the DIY forums a bit hard to wade through.