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ksquared

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About ksquared

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  1. ksquared

    A Basic Speaker Connection Question

    Wow, thanks for that article! That pretty much is the definitive answer. I was happy to read though that there are other people besides me wondering about this. So thank you both kvndoom and Emile.
  2. I've read about bi-amping, and almost understand the theory, and might be able to set that up. However, that's not what I'm attempting to do here. I want one set of speakers, and two different amps. One amp for playing the TV, BD, etc., and the other amp for playing vinyl records. Long ago, T2K stated about a switching system, where two amps could be connected to two sets of speakers, and the system would route things correctly. https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/1143-two-pairs-of-mains/&tab=comments#comment-9800 But that doesn't seem to be what I'm really trying to do here. So here is the question, and I'm hoping to get those more knowledgeable than me (which is just about everybody LOL) to see if I'm doing this correctly or if I'm going to destroy something. Can amp#1 be connected to the top speaker posts (Red and Black) and amp#2 connected to the bottom speaker posts (Red and Black), without destroying everything connected? I have left the little top post to bottom post connectors connected, since it is my understanding that the only time they would be removed is if it was truly a correct bi-amp setup. The rule would be then only one amp could be on at any given time. I don't know what would happen if both were turned on simultaneously, but I don't want to find out here, maybe theoretically would be interesting. Thanks for the help.
  3. ksquared

    Pony Express Central (Shipping Discussion)

    This is all tentative at the moment, but I might, and that is a big might, be going from Baltimore, MD down I-95 to Orlando, FL and I could pick up pretty much whatever you're thinking of. The only detail is that I would not feel comfortable loading or unloading any extremely expensive items, but I could help if needed. I guess on rare occasion things work out, so maybe this would be one of them.
  4. ksquared

    CHERRY RF7-II's

    Any chance you're moving to Florida? I hear the weather is nice, just don't mention the name Irma!
  5. ksquared

    Klipsch speaker impedance ratings

    Now Cory knows how to make a newbie feel better.
  6. ksquared

    Klipsch speaker impedance ratings

    No, no offense meant by you nor taken by me. I appreciate the help to understand it.
  7. ksquared

    Klipsch speaker impedance ratings

    Now, I told you I'd already derailed. Would it be technically better to say the higher impedance speaker needs the power (current) at a lower rate? But, given the previous requirements, it would need a higher voltage?
  8. ksquared

    Klipsch speaker impedance ratings

    OK, this part I now understand too. Give a speaker 1 watt of power, if 99dB come out, they're both using the power at the same efficiency. That makes perfect sense, and it doesn't matter what the impedance of the speaker is. And here's where I derail. Why? But, this then makes it more understandable that an amp gives out, I'm guessing it can't output the higher current required. The 8Ω speaker takes the power (current) at a slower rate?
  9. ksquared

    Klipsch speaker impedance ratings

    I'm hoping it is OK if I add a question to this, as I'm a newbie to all the technical aspects. And I have tried to find out, but I'm not really understanding it. I can understand that speakers are rated 8Ω or 4Ω, although the actual number varies and is frequency dependent, and that somehow if you connect two 8Ω speakers in parallel you get 4Ω. My daughter even did a science experiment where she showed the output of the light was brighter when two wires were connected from the battery to the light in parallel, so I'm thinking I might understand this aspect. So, if there are two speakers, and one is 8Ω, 99dB and one is 4Ω, 99dB, the 4Ω speaker will use the power supplied to it more efficiently to put out the same volume (dB)? If one speaker was 8Ω, 99dB and the other was 4Ω, what dB rating would equal the 8Ω speaker for equal power supplied to each? Or maybe if I say you put enough power to make the 8Ω speaker produce 99dB, what db output would the 4Ω speaker be at the same power input? Why isn't there a "dB / watt input" rating in addition to all the other specs, isn't that what people want to know? I somewhat understand that a given amp only has so much power to output, but then why isn't everybody trying to get 4Ω speakers that use it most efficiently? And for that 18w amp, isn't the 18w producing more dB at just the 30% level than the 8Ω speakers at 50% level? Or am I just completely mixed up? (And if the answer is yes, I'm hoping it can be explained why as I'd like to learn.)
  10. Ummm, any more dirt cheap RF 7ii's out there? Needing a good home in Sunny Florida? Will even take them to Disney World if necessary.
  11. ksquared

    Wiring the Subwoofer, Is This Way OK?

    OK, you're both absolutely correct. Thanks so much. I guess it might have helped to look a bit closer. So, with this inspiration, I've gotten the WA-2 setup with the subwoofer, and it seems to be working fine. Getting the WA-2 to work was incredibly easy, so I'm wondering if many/most people do the connection this way or with the RCA wires. I keep wondering if there is some difference in sound quality.
  12. I'm sure this way is not optimum, since each length of speaker wire isn't exactly the same, but at the current time if it will work even borderline I'd be OK. Is it possible to get the signal to the R-112SW in the following way: Amp ----> (speaker wire) ---> RC64II ----> (short length of speaker wire) ---> R-112SW? The RC64II has the two connection points, for if somebody wanted to bi-amp it, but they remain as from the factory bridged in my situation. So can I connect the speaker wire from the amp to the RC64II lower +/- connectors, and then use the upper +/- connectors to go with a short speaker wire from it to the R-112SW? I definitely don't want to hurt anything by doing things this way. I have the WA-2 subwoofer kit, and at some point that is what I'm hoping to use, although I'm wondering what the opinion from the experts here on that method is.
  13. I'll be interested to hear what you think. I'm thinking it was possibly somewhat either controversial or not completely understood at that time. I would think things have progressed in the intervening years.
  14. I knew I had read it somewhere, but a long time ago: https://www.greentechmedia.com/articles/read/120-to-118-will-dropping-our-voltage-save-power#gs.R12QP9c It involves Conservation Voltage Reduction. There is more information in the comments section than the actual article, but I did remember the snippet about Ohm's law from this guy (bold added): " Greg W • 7 years ago I've been involved with CVR research for the last 10 years, and aside from a few knowledgable comments this is mostly a wounderful compulation of all the ignorant reactions to CVR I've heard for the last 10 years! Voltage Optimization is real. As long as you reduce the voltage to the low end of the ANSI 84.1 voltage delivery standard, it works. For anyone that is truly interresting in expanding their knowledge base, there have been years of research on the topic by the CEC, EPRI, NEEA, BPA and a host of utilities dating back to the early 1980s that you can study up on. Ohms law is not the bible - it is only the tip of the iceberg when it come to what actually happens when the voltage moves up or down. By the way EPRI (the Electric Power Research Institute) named CVR as their #1 topic for continued research this year." Also, this person wrote an interesting article too: https://blogs.dnvgl.com/energy/is-conservation-voltage-reduction-truly-energy-efficiency I will definitely admit that this is pretty far above the limited knowledge I have in this area, and over time I have muddled the information. I mostly was studying to design, get permitted, and be code compliant for the 4.7kw PV system with battery backup that I installed here.
  15. Says the guy who stated it is perfectly fine for some unscrupulous seller (not jimjimbo to clarify) to claim something was purchased for $5000 when the truth is it was $880, in order to try to justify a higher selling price. The person potentially overcharged would have most likely also have been a member of this forum.
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