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The Klipsch Audio Community


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About ksquared

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  1. Pony Express Central (Shipping Discussion)

    This is all tentative at the moment, but I might, and that is a big might, be going from Baltimore, MD down I-95 to Orlando, FL and I could pick up pretty much whatever you're thinking of. The only detail is that I would not feel comfortable loading or unloading any extremely expensive items, but I could help if needed. I guess on rare occasion things work out, so maybe this would be one of them.
  2. CHERRY RF7-II's

    Any chance you're moving to Florida? I hear the weather is nice, just don't mention the name Irma!
  3. Klipsch speaker impedance ratings

    Now Cory knows how to make a newbie feel better.
  4. Klipsch speaker impedance ratings

    No, no offense meant by you nor taken by me. I appreciate the help to understand it.
  5. Klipsch speaker impedance ratings

    Now, I told you I'd already derailed. Would it be technically better to say the higher impedance speaker needs the power (current) at a lower rate? But, given the previous requirements, it would need a higher voltage?
  6. Klipsch speaker impedance ratings

    OK, this part I now understand too. Give a speaker 1 watt of power, if 99dB come out, they're both using the power at the same efficiency. That makes perfect sense, and it doesn't matter what the impedance of the speaker is. And here's where I derail. Why? But, this then makes it more understandable that an amp gives out, I'm guessing it can't output the higher current required. The 8Ω speaker takes the power (current) at a slower rate?
  7. Klipsch speaker impedance ratings

    I'm hoping it is OK if I add a question to this, as I'm a newbie to all the technical aspects. And I have tried to find out, but I'm not really understanding it. I can understand that speakers are rated 8Ω or 4Ω, although the actual number varies and is frequency dependent, and that somehow if you connect two 8Ω speakers in parallel you get 4Ω. My daughter even did a science experiment where she showed the output of the light was brighter when two wires were connected from the battery to the light in parallel, so I'm thinking I might understand this aspect. So, if there are two speakers, and one is 8Ω, 99dB and one is 4Ω, 99dB, the 4Ω speaker will use the power supplied to it more efficiently to put out the same volume (dB)? If one speaker was 8Ω, 99dB and the other was 4Ω, what dB rating would equal the 8Ω speaker for equal power supplied to each? Or maybe if I say you put enough power to make the 8Ω speaker produce 99dB, what db output would the 4Ω speaker be at the same power input? Why isn't there a "dB / watt input" rating in addition to all the other specs, isn't that what people want to know? I somewhat understand that a given amp only has so much power to output, but then why isn't everybody trying to get 4Ω speakers that use it most efficiently? And for that 18w amp, isn't the 18w producing more dB at just the 30% level than the 8Ω speakers at 50% level? Or am I just completely mixed up? (And if the answer is yes, I'm hoping it can be explained why as I'd like to learn.)
  8. Ummm, any more dirt cheap RF 7ii's out there? Needing a good home in Sunny Florida? Will even take them to Disney World if necessary.
  9. Wiring the Subwoofer, Is This Way OK?

    OK, you're both absolutely correct. Thanks so much. I guess it might have helped to look a bit closer. So, with this inspiration, I've gotten the WA-2 setup with the subwoofer, and it seems to be working fine. Getting the WA-2 to work was incredibly easy, so I'm wondering if many/most people do the connection this way or with the RCA wires. I keep wondering if there is some difference in sound quality.
  10. I'm sure this way is not optimum, since each length of speaker wire isn't exactly the same, but at the current time if it will work even borderline I'd be OK. Is it possible to get the signal to the R-112SW in the following way: Amp ----> (speaker wire) ---> RC64II ----> (short length of speaker wire) ---> R-112SW? The RC64II has the two connection points, for if somebody wanted to bi-amp it, but they remain as from the factory bridged in my situation. So can I connect the speaker wire from the amp to the RC64II lower +/- connectors, and then use the upper +/- connectors to go with a short speaker wire from it to the R-112SW? I definitely don't want to hurt anything by doing things this way. I have the WA-2 subwoofer kit, and at some point that is what I'm hoping to use, although I'm wondering what the opinion from the experts here on that method is.
  11. I'll be interested to hear what you think. I'm thinking it was possibly somewhat either controversial or not completely understood at that time. I would think things have progressed in the intervening years.
  12. I knew I had read it somewhere, but a long time ago: https://www.greentechmedia.com/articles/read/120-to-118-will-dropping-our-voltage-save-power#gs.R12QP9c It involves Conservation Voltage Reduction. There is more information in the comments section than the actual article, but I did remember the snippet about Ohm's law from this guy (bold added): " Greg W • 7 years ago I've been involved with CVR research for the last 10 years, and aside from a few knowledgable comments this is mostly a wounderful compulation of all the ignorant reactions to CVR I've heard for the last 10 years! Voltage Optimization is real. As long as you reduce the voltage to the low end of the ANSI 84.1 voltage delivery standard, it works. For anyone that is truly interresting in expanding their knowledge base, there have been years of research on the topic by the CEC, EPRI, NEEA, BPA and a host of utilities dating back to the early 1980s that you can study up on. Ohms law is not the bible - it is only the tip of the iceberg when it come to what actually happens when the voltage moves up or down. By the way EPRI (the Electric Power Research Institute) named CVR as their #1 topic for continued research this year." Also, this person wrote an interesting article too: https://blogs.dnvgl.com/energy/is-conservation-voltage-reduction-truly-energy-efficiency I will definitely admit that this is pretty far above the limited knowledge I have in this area, and over time I have muddled the information. I mostly was studying to design, get permitted, and be code compliant for the 4.7kw PV system with battery backup that I installed here.
  13. Says the guy who stated it is perfectly fine for some unscrupulous seller (not jimjimbo to clarify) to claim something was purchased for $5000 when the truth is it was $880, in order to try to justify a higher selling price. The person potentially overcharged would have most likely also have been a member of this forum.
  14. It is my understanding that for example, the refrigerator, is pulling 5 amps to run, no matter the voltage. So with the higher voltage, with the same amperage, it therefore uses more electricity.
  15. Stand alone backups. Who's doing it and how?

    I have actually been attacked by ransomware. I always have suspected it was from an ad for an antique car, but I can't prove it. And yes, I had almost everything backed up, but somewhat more by accident than brilliance. I have several computers, so one is left disconnected from the Internet always. A RAID setup, while excellent to prevent data loss from physical disk failure, won't guarantee protection from ransomware. With the low price of thumb drives, that is a worthy alternative too, as you can get several and rotate them on a many week schedule. The other problem with ransomware is that it doesn't necessarily immediately announce with banners that it is there and you can try to stop it. It can slowly, over time, continue to encrypt a few files here, a few files there, until either you notice it or it has done enough and announces that you need to pay the ransom. Tragically some people have lost all their photos to such lowlifes. If I had been savvy enough I would have sent one cent worth of bitcoin to them, in the hopes that there is an account transaction fee greater than that.