ksquared

I'll be interested to hear what you think. I'm thinking it was possibly somewhat either controversial or not completely understood at that time. I would think things have progressed in the intervening years.

I knew I had read it somewhere, but a long time ago: https://www.greentechmedia.com/articles/read/120-to-118-will-dropping-our-voltage-save-power#gs.R12QP9c It involves Conservation Voltage Reduction. There is more information in the comments section than the actual article, but I did remember the snippet about Ohm's law from this guy (bold added): " Greg W • 7 years ago I've been involved with CVR research for the last 10 years, and aside from a few knowledgable comments this is mostly a wounderful compulation of all the ignorant reactions to CVR I've heard for the last 10 years! Voltage Optimization is real. As long as you reduce the voltage to the low end of the ANSI 84.1 voltage delivery standard, it works. For anyone that is truly interresting in expanding their knowledge base, there have been years of research on the topic by the CEC, EPRI, NEEA, BPA and a host of utilities dating back to the early 1980s that you can study up on. Ohms law is not the bible - it is only the tip of the iceberg when it come to what actually happens when the voltage moves up or down. By the way EPRI (the Electric Power Research Institute) named CVR as their #1 topic for continued research this year." Also, this person wrote an interesting article too: https://blogs.dnvgl.com/energy/is-conservation-voltage-reduction-truly-energy-efficiency I will definitely admit that this is pretty far above the limited knowledge I have in this area, and over time I have muddled the information. I mostly was studying to design, get permitted, and be code compliant for the 4.7kw PV system with battery backup that I installed here.

Says the guy who stated it is perfectly fine for some unscrupulous seller (not jimjimbo to clarify) to claim something was purchased for $5000 when the truth is it was $880, in order to try to justify a higher selling price. The person potentially overcharged would have most likely also have been a member of this forum.

It is my understanding that for example, the refrigerator, is pulling 5 amps to run, no matter the voltage. So with the higher voltage, with the same amperage, it therefore uses more electricity.

I have actually been attacked by ransomware. I always have suspected it was from an ad for an antique car, but I can't prove it. And yes, I had almost everything backed up, but somewhat more by accident than brilliance. I have several computers, so one is left disconnected from the Internet always. A RAID setup, while excellent to prevent data loss from physical disk failure, won't guarantee protection from ransomware. With the low price of thumb drives, that is a worthy alternative too, as you can get several and rotate them on a many week schedule. The other problem with ransomware is that it doesn't necessarily immediately announce with banners that it is there and you can try to stop it. It can slowly, over time, continue to encrypt a few files here, a few files there, until either you notice it or it has done enough and announces that you need to pay the ransom. Tragically some people have lost all their photos to such lowlifes. If I had been savvy enough I would have sent one cent worth of bitcoin to them, in the hopes that there is an account transaction fee greater than that.

I would call the electric company no matter. To me, 125V is too high. The electric companies like to run it high because then you use more electricity, in this case 4% or so. I noticed the same thing here, always 125V or so, and I talked to the head guy of the company. It was soon corrected back to 119V to 120V. So if they say they can't do anything about it I'd be highly skeptical. It really isn't necessary, but you could also think about a Brultech GEM or EC1240 if you'd be happy monitoring just a few circuits. I have the GEM and it has been helpful at times, but it was what I would consider a bit high priced, about $450 or so. But I saved a bit by installing it myself, and now I have every circuit in the house monitored. I've got 4.7kw of PV solar, so I'm very focused on electricity usage. During the four days without power after Hurricane Irma, we were able to live fine, hot water, A/C (daytime only due to degrading batteries), ran the dishwasher, lights and TV (thank goodness, but no Internet for a week), and also charged the EV Nissan LEAF, so we weren't concerned with the gasoline shortages or the hour wait others had do do. I even kept up the mowing schedule with my electric EGO lawn mower.

Wow TasDom, thank you so much!! Definitely appreciated.

OK, but that's what I'm wondering, as I'm trying to do the height of the RC-64II without having the RF-7II speaker here. So my question then is what is that height? I don't know if there might be a dimensional drawing of the RF-7II somewhere showing this?

You know, I wondered about being in the cabinet. Now, the back has an opening about 18", which would mitigate any problem a bit. I too also figured angled down a degree or two might be even better than horizontal, but that was just more guessing on my part. You know, gravity helps the sound travel. But from my research, the RC-64II is a front-ported speaker. I'll tangentially add, I have no idea why a rear-ported center speaker would be good at all, but what do I know, not much.

OK thank you for the information. So I think I'm understanding. Somewhat since the RF-7II is designed to be the right height for the tweeter, putting the center speaker at ear level should work. I guess it isn't surprising, but measuring to ear level works out to be about the same as my initial guess of the RF-7II tweeter height. My initial guess about placement though was probably too high, as I was going to put it up almost as high as I could get it inside the entertainment center.

If you look on eBay, the seller onecall has this sub. They have it also in cherry, which I haven't seen other places. They have both new and "open box." They are spectacular to deal with, I was happy purchasing from them. They also sell many other items, both on ebay and their website and their store too if you're in Seattle (IIRC). I am pretty sure they are an authorized Klipsch dealer too. If you do the eBay purchase right, you'll also be able to get about a 6% discount by using the eBay gift card purchased at Target, and then getting the eBucks of 1% also. I think it is possible to do slightly better with some other website promotions, but I hadn't taken that step yet for just a 0.5% or so benefit vs. the risk of the unknown.

OK, for the home theater setup, is there somewhat a perfect center speaker height to match the floor standing speakers? Right now, I can go with 36" but still go up to about 41" so before I decide it would be good to have some expert input. And that measurement is to the bottom of the speaker, maybe it is better to measure to the midpoint of the speaker when calculating height? I would think that the center speaker should be set at horizontal 0°, but maybe my assumption is wrong and it should be at a slight angle either up or down. It would be the RC-64II center speaker, and with the RF-7II floor speakers. Is there any chart that could be found listing the best height based on the floor speakers?

Actually, everybody has helped a huge amount! And I appreciate the patience and information from everybody, it did factor into my decision. Hopefully I did OK. First, it was interesting from dirtmudd about the calculations of the Scott amps in today's dollars, I hadn't really thought about that aspect. There was another problem I kept thinking about, and that is how so many of the tube amps are <10 watts, some even at 2 watts. I saw the thread from Maynard: https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/170414-who-wants-to-measure-how-much-power-voltage-is-really-needed/& Now, of course, I don't understand 95% of it, but derrickdj1's comment too, "I have the RF 7 II's and my tube amp is usually under 2 or 3 watts for my normal listening level." Also, and of course I don't understand it, some say watts from a tube amp are more efficient at actually driving the speaker than the solid state amp. And many are saying that the first watt is the most important. So I did finally accept that I didn't need 100 or more wpc, especially with the efficient Klipsch speakers. The weird thing though is I thought somewhere somebody had said if the speaker is underpowered it could be damaged, so maybe somebody could clarify that at some point. And, the debate about older but rebuilt vs. new with the warranty was also factored in. In the end, it is interesting that but for a few seconds, I might have ended up with that 299C which was several decades old, but restored. So it turned out that I found a used Decware SE34I.5 (Rachael model) within the price range and bought that. Before I got it he let me listen to it with his system, and it sounded excellent. Of course, I'm thinking the rest of his setup didn't hurt, as he had everything top of the line and in perfect condition. I'm not sure about the brand of speakers, but they're supposed to be mighty expensive ones. He turned out to be a great guy too, either he took pity on a non-expert like me, or he's just happy to help everybody. One of the factors too is that Decware gives a lifetime warranty, although I'll have to pay a bit to transfer it to me, which I'm waiting on until it becomes necessary. The guy I bought it from said he didn't worry about any warranty, since the quality was so spectacular. So I hope I made a good choice, I hope I didn't pay too much, and I hope it will last a mighty long time.

Yes, I am a new guy here, and definitely don't want to cause or be in the middle of ANY controversy between people. In my opinion, all of the people here are helping others, and many have knowledge of these systems that are in the stratosphere. I don't know that I'm much above sea level here. The story about how I got interested in the Scott 299 amp is that there was another thread, with huge controversy, about a new tube amp that was inspired by the 299. I figured if it was inspired by the 299, why not try to get the real deal? I believe the price of the restored 299 is less than the new one also. However, as derrickdj1 said, they are old, they've got to be restored by somebody who knows what they're doing, and the restoration is costly. And yes, Craig at NOS Valves is part of my research, as on eBay just recently there was a Scott 299C restored by him. http://www.ebay.com/itm/H-H-Scott-299C-Stereo-Tube-Amplifier-Craig-Ostby-of-NosValves-Restoration-/122722092729?hash=item1c92ce86b9%3Ag%3A1xgAAOSwK89ZxojC&nma=true&si=35anb8WC52I3htR7ngLnk501hgM%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 It was even close by, I could have picked it up. I even tried to bid on it, but my bid never even made it in as others were bidding higher and higher so quickly. And to buy from somebody named "honorable_bob" seemed to be pretty safe. I looked on the website for NOS Valves, and the one suggested by Maynard, Ken at aeaaudio.com, and both Ken and Craig I'm sure are 100% excellent at what they're doing. However, everything they're listing is "SOLD," so that doesn't help for somebody like me. I can't purchase one and hope to have it restored, I don't know enough if it is good or not, and have it end up costing in the stratosphere. I guess it could be months and months too, although I am patient for incredible quality. And, embarrassing to admit, I'm so void of knowledge in this area that my idea was to be able to combine and have a tube amp to be both a stereo output for the phonograph and able to do the 5.1 surround sound from modern movies. The only thing I've found is the "Decware ULTRA" which is priced much higher that I was hoping to spend, but Steve Deckert was also highly praised by Maynard, who I have to say is a great guy and appreciated in my opinion for his willingness to help. Now, if that ULTRA isn't expensive enough (not meant to be taken negatively either, I understand though that high quality costs money), it seems that you have to also add another five tube amps in addition, which I don't understand why but I'm sure is the way physics requires it to be. So, with NOSValves answering my initial questions, I've got more information, but I'm still not sure about what to do.

Thank you to everyone who replied. This is just what I was hoping to learn! As Maynard said with the reference to vintage cars, which I'm interested in, I suppose that nostalgia factor plays a part, not that I really was listening to tube amps (or anything else or any quality) back in the day. I had "The Record Eater" for a phonograph, and then somehow it played through a box and into fairly junky speakers. I'm not looking for a '48 Tucker, nor a '76 Pacer, but something more middle-of-the-road that will not cost over $1000 or so. I would also like to have my children hear what it was back when I was their age, and maybe even hear an actual record played on a phonograph!! I am wanting to get the RF7II speakers, an RC64II center speaker, and the R112-SW, which seems like it should be mighty excellent if I can do it. I'd still need to find a phonograph, but there isn't much point researching that now until I could hear it. I like the treble much more than the pounding bass, and don't need to listen at 120db, but would like to have the ability to play a bit loud. It is just in a regular sized living room, although the ceilings are 12 feet. I'm obviously not the major audiophile who can tell the Wattgate 381 outlet (https://www.parts-express.com/wattgate-381-au-evo-clear-gold-plated-audio-grade-ac-recepticle-outlet--110-4396?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla ) from other outlets, and no, I wasn't ever even tempted to purchase it, but just a regular person who'd like to hear whatever I can hear with something of a relatively high quality.

Thanks for that suggestion. I am worried about just bothering one of the experts, as opposed to having any of them respond if they'd like here.

OK, think of me as just landing from Pluto, not knowing much of anything about the tube amps/pre-amps. I've done some research, and it seems the 299C is rated mighty excellent. Now, not to debate, but I have a few questions. 1) Why is the 299C so spectacular? And is the 299D even better? Why didn't they keep going with the 299E? 2) Is the 299C a pre-amp, and thus needing an amp, or can it work on its own? 3) Will the 299C work with only two speakers, or can you have the center speaker and a subwoofer with it too? 4) Are there any Klipsch speakers it wouldn't be good with or work properly with? 5) is there a modern tube amp/pre-amp that is just as well-respected? 6) Are the tube amps only used with playing vinyl records? Hopefully there are some patient people out there, as I know these are ridiculously basic questions, and I appreciate any help.

I didn't see this posted, but Newegg has the R-12SWi for $264 on the shell-shocker deal with promo code EMCSRKRK4. I'm not sure how this one compares in the grand scheme of Klipsch subwoofers, but it still must be pretty decent.

I'm not sure if this is a great deal or not, but maybe somebody is looking for the big subwoofer. The ad says $600 Today Only, but it has been up for a month, so I'm not sure about all the details. https://winstonsalem.craigslist.org/ele/6201857525.html

Thanks Youthman, I wasn't sure that a "newbie" like me could post anything worthy.

And, to make the trip even more enjoyable, he could swing by High Point NC and pick up a new R-115SW for $600. The ad says "Today Only" though, but the ad was posted a month ago, so maybe the price has dropped. https://winstonsalem.craigslist.org/ele/6201857525.html (And I'm not knowledgeable if it was an Alert! worthy deal or not. But it is the same price as a used one on eBay.)

Long ago in high school, there was a kid with most of one hand blown off because of fireworks. The others called him "The Claw," but he was actually a very smart guy, and a good guy too. Tragically, he was killed in a house fire before he graduated, when he was trapped in the basement, because he went down there to make sure nobody was there. Another time, an entire family a few blocks from my grandparents were killed by a fire. One person was smoking and fell asleep on the couch. They "put the fire out," and went to sleep. In the middle of the night, the couch reignited. So, yes, I'm having a fit too when I see the stupid neighbors' fireworks remnants in my front lawn and on the roof of my house. They were actually shooting towards my neighbor's house, and surprisingly always away from their house.

OK, now I'm feeling guilty!! I could have saved you $1200 AND a road trip to Florida. But I'll still say Congratulations! The final decision was, if they were Cherry you would have stayed in WV. As CHASL2 said also, they are very deep speakers. They are also extremely tall too. I'll also say a public "Thank You!" to Youthman, who even offered to drive over there so a newbie like me would get a good deal.

Hey, that's me too, and I don't even have a setup yet. I somewhat look at the specs, having majored in math, and start to wonder a few things. 1) From the research, it seems that it is possible for a smaller 10" sub to output a lower frequency than a 12" sub, however, what also seems to be a guiding factor is the "bigger is better" philosophy, so I'm wondering about that. 2) Now, I can believe there is a noticeable difference if one sub goes to 30Hz or so compared to another one at 15Hz, but what about 24Hz to 20Hz to 18 Hz? Are they huge steps, or just slightly better, or maybe hardly better at all? 3) The "in room extension" specification seems to indicate that everything will work in the real world unless you're in a mansion, although others dismiss this as a gimmick. 4) The dreaded one spectacular one, vs. two pretty good ones. Some say it makes a world of difference, usually the ones selling the subwoofers, while others say once again it will help some but in the real world the difference is small, and definitely not by a factor of two. 5) Is the SVS PC-2000 somewhat of a gimmick with the cylinder design vs. the usual box? 6) Is there any loose guideline of the percentage of a system's cost should be spent on the subwoofer? Thanks.

That's the other thing I worry about as a newbie, is the price too good?