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TFR1 last won the day on February 4

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  1. These are about as clean as one will find, and a price that will be hard to beat. Good luck!
  2. TFR1

    Stirling Engines

    I bought my "Hot Air" engine in 1977 when I was teaching Math & Science to 5th graders. (made by Solar Engines in Arizona) It still fascinates my 6 and 8 year old granddaughters. @Mallette The issue is low efficiency. In the 60% range I believe. I haven't read on this in years, not certain if there are other problems with the technology.
  3. The panel that needs replaced is small and easily accessed. If these were close to Georgia, I would be on my way to get them. Worst part of the repair is stripping the paint.
  4. @Maximus89 I also thought the price was very high. But in the end, I have exactly what I wanted, and the price was only $40 more than my budget. Jerry
  5. @Maximus89 Grill cloth came from 123Stitch.com I purchased the largest piece to cover my Cornwall's.($77.39)
  6. I purchased the Cornwall badges from him a couple of months ago. Maybe not perfect, only have seen pictures of original's to compare, so they look great on my refurbished Cornwall's. Klipsch used these badges on their Limited Edition Cornwall III's (The Irish Linen grill cloth looks good too too!)
  7. @Alexander A few months ago I also decided to try tubes. I listened to several different amps including a vintage Dynaco, a newly built VTA 120, a vintage Fisher 800B, Fisher 500C as well as a Scott 299. All of the above amplifiers will probably cost more than $500, but it is very likely you can find one for less than $1000. I purchased a fully rebuilt Fisher 500C, in part because it has the capability of powering 2 sets of speakers as well as a center channel. It also has a phono section and an FM receiver. I am very satisfied, but I am not getting rid of my Marantz 2285. As others have suggested, you need to listen to several amps before you make your decision. Good luck!
  8. EJ, Thanks for the note. I look forward to attending. I will see if I can find someone to come with me. Jerry
  9. TFR1

    Refreshed LaScala

    @Jvitti1970 It would depend on what wood is under the black paint. If the paint was applied over a plywood surface, you may be successful. If it is applied over an MDF surface, you may not achieve the surface finish you desire. I seems that Klipsch used a pretty high quality birch plywood. The outer surface of Raw Birch cabinets I have worked on are free of defects. I have been able to do much sanding without finding flaws. The LaScala cabinet pictured in this thread required the removal of 6-8 thousandths of material. Even at that, some black paint remained in the deepest grain. I chose to leave some of the paint in the grain rather than risk damage by sanding thru the veneer. The result was just a little "patina" to the finish that I find very acceptable. You might experiment on the bottom of the cabinet and see what you find. Jerry
  10. TFR1

    Refreshed LaScala

    This is helpful. Thanks
  11. TFR1

    Wiring a Center Channel

    @glens Many thanks. I think I can do this.
  12. TFR1

    Refreshed LaScala

    @windashine Pic of 500C connections attached. Center channel wires are the two left most wires. I looked at the wiring diagram and read the article. I don't have the skill set to construct the control device. Easier to by an AVR.
  13. TFR1

    Refreshed LaScala

    @Kalifornian 1) Sand all surfaces with 80 grit on a DA sander. (Mine is air driven, but electric works fine) You must be careful not to sand too much. The original baltic birch panels are pretty thick(with the exception of the forward facing 'V' shaped panels on the bass bin) but you don't need to sand all of the paint, stain or lacquer finish off. You just need to get as much of the finish off as possible without over sanding. 2) Get a can of Aircraft Paint stripper. It is nasty stuff. Follow directions. let work 15-30 minutes depending on temp and stripper effectiveness. 3) Using a grey scotchbrite pad (and heavy rubber gloves) scrub the stripper coated surface. 4) Use a plastic scraper and a rag to remove the gooey mess. Try to go with the grain of the wood. Remove all traces of stripper. 5) Wipe all stripped surfaces with a lacquer thinner soaked rag. 6) Sand with 80 grit on top and sides again. Work your way thru 120, 150, 180, and 220 grit as you smooth and clean the exterior panels. 7) You must use this same process as you strip the inside of the bass bin, but due to space limitations, you will need to do most of it by hand due to the space limitations of the LaScala construction. 😎 Clean all dust from the panels using a tack rag. 9) Apply a wood conditioner, or sealer. 10) Apply Watco wood oil or a Tung oil per instructions. This is not an easy project. There are also a lot of details that I can not predict that you will encounter. You must be careful not to sand thru the veneer or round over edges. I have a lot of finishing experience and I have to remind myself to take my time and go slow. Good Luck. jerry
  14. TFR1

    Refreshed LaScala

    @wvu80 An AVR is a solution, but I really enjoy my Fisher tube amp. The Fisher 500C has L-Ctr-R connections, but volume controls all three. Crossover is AA that has been recapped. Jerry
  15. TFR1

    Refreshed LaScala

    Thanks. Never thought I would like birch cabinets until I saw Larry's. @scallywagger77 I really like the warm amber glow that his have acquired over the last 40 years. I tried to replicate his cabinet color. Not near as nice as Larry's but I am pretty happy with the result. Jerry