DizRotus

I would try switching the Heresys left for right so that the same channels are on the diagonal. You might like it; if not, switch it back. In any case, enjoy.

I’m in a similar position with an older Onkyo. I’ll probably get something from https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/brand_category/DENON/1.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3ITv0pbt8gIVz2tvBB1pwwKBEAAYASAAEgLJV_D_BwE

I thought Willie Mays said it.

Imagine if they’d actually won.

I’m so sorry for your loss Elden and Christy. @dtel @dtel's wife

When he sang Great Balls of Fire, it was autobiographical.

Before gouging up the cabinet or the panel with metal tools, after removing all the screws, I would put a large screw into one of the back corners, and pull on that (use slide hammer, if available). Even if you end up drilling a hole large enough to accept a toggle bolt, it can be easily filled, more easily than cleaning up putty knife, or screwdriver, gouges. Good luck and please let us know how it goes.

You did well. Please keep the photos and impressions of sonic quality coming. Just a thought, you could spin off the K-55 from one of your Khorns to make a comparison with the Heppner, or vice versa, try a Heppner on your Khorn, assuming they have Atlas/K-55 drivers.

Is that a graphic novel?

IMO, if all drivers function, you got your money’s worth, irrespective of date of manufacture or driver source. I’ve had both Atlas and Heppner squawker drivers. Each is fine.

I agree with @JohnJ about the late hit and the, apparent, makeup call.

My Spartans looked good in defeating a good (at least last year) Northwestern team in Evanston. Kenneth Walker III, formerly at Wake Forest, ran for 264 yards on 23 carries with 4 touchdowns; an average of 11.5 yards per carry. He clearly lived up to the hype surrounding his trip through the portal. GO GREEN!

Roy @Chief bonehead would say that any modification makes it something other than Klipsch. I wonder if putting NGK spark plugs in a Corvette makes it no longer a Chevy.

I built several of these. The enclosures is a modified MDF speaker flat pack from Parts Express. The class-D amp and Bluetooth are by SURE from PE. The drivers are Radio Shack FE 103. Single port, flared at both ends, (also from PE) vents both drivers. The port is as long as space permits, as shortening it diminished the bass output. The bass is best when the unit is placed on its back on a hard smooth surface with the port facing down. The battery is a 12v motorcycle battery. Although it performs very well, it is very heavy. Again, I would choose the Dayton kit you linked, rather than build another one of these. The plate beneath the collapsible handle now houses inputs for a 1/8” TRS plug or RCA cables. It also now has a three way input selection switch, as well as a volume control for the RCA inputs. Despite a small sound improvement when hard wired to a source, the convenience of Bluetooth makes that the most used input.

The smaller Dayton kit. I built two. They're OK, but I would do the larger one you linked. Note the hard corners were rounded by a router before applying Duratex,

I agree. I built two smaller Dayton kits with class-D amps and Bluetooth for family members. They are nice but I would go with the one linked in your post. One change would be to attack the hard edges with a router. The Internet is extremely slow this morning, or I would attach photos of prior projects. In any case, the Dayton unit you linked would be hard to beat.

No. The opening is sealed by the bottom panel. Filling that opening with a 3/4” piece so as to make it flush with the rest of the “floor” of the doghouse is totally unnecessary. It would result in a minuscule reduction of the interior volume of the doghouse with no effect on performance. As PWK would say, not a dime’s worth of difference. The foregoing is my opinion. YMMV

Redundant post. See below.

I’ll check that out. My most played acoustic guitar album is the deluxe edition of Clapton Unplugged.

Bump. Enjoy a safe and happy Labor Day weekend.

Why @Chad does the forum now spontaneously have me quote myself, which I would never do. My father warned me this causes blindness.

My cataract surgery experience went so well, I wish I didn’t have to wait two weeks to get the second eye done. While it’s great to not need to immediately locate my glasses when getting out of bed, it’s annoying and tiresome to see well out of the corrected eye, but not the remaining eye. A week from Wednesday can’t get here too quickly.

Photos would help. I had to look at my HIPs to confirm that the drivers are, indeed, attached to the motor-board from the rear. My geriatric memory ain’t what it used to be. The back panel MUST be removed. I would screw a large wood, or sheetmetal, screw into one or more corner about 1.5 inches from each side. The screw(s) can be used to pull that corner(s) away from the cabinet. If a slide hammer is available, use that. The panel can be easily repaired, or replaced, in the unlikely event it is damaged in the process. Good luck and keep us posted.

Board up that window, batten down the hatches, and stay safe.

Elden, you should have been a meteorologist,