DizRotus

I'll use the 33µF caps from now dissected Heresy networks to experiment.

Thanks Gary

Bob- Thanks and Merry Christmas! I'll report back with the results.

Chris- These are the kind of suggestions I'm seeking. Thanks, Bruce- I want to avoid purchasing L-pads. The speakers sound very good within their limitations, but I want to see if I can use the CT125s to make them sound better, even if only only temporarily at an experimental level . Yes, the voice coils would be essentially in the same plane. Thanks

Chris- The very term crossover suggests a greater degree of sophistication than I'm envisioning. PWK called Heritage "crossovers" balancing networks for a reason. I'm envisioning more of a controlled overlap than a crossover. The single drivers start seriously rolling off above ~8K. I want to protect the CT125s from signal below that. The power levels involved are not high. While the T2A may not be needed for attenuation of the tweeter, it could be used for that. A simple capacitor would block low frequency energy from reaching the CT125. I doubt that an inductor is needed to block high frequencies from the single driver; the natural roll-off should suffice. The single drivers are efficient, but not as efficient as the CT125s, therefore, some attenuation would be needed. The T2A can substitute for an L-pad. It's not ideal, but it's here. In reading through the old post about the single drivers, I see where I once said that I wouldn't add tweeters or sub-woofers. Again, I'm not trying to approach audio perfection. I am curious about using parts at hand to add some high end sizzle. At most, I'll experiment with adding capacitors, resistors, inductors and trying various taps on the autoformer to see if the benefit can exceed the drawbacks while spending a minimal amount of time and/or money.

Thank you.

I have a pair of DIY single driver rear horns see: Single Driver Rear Horn Experiments http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/thread/548426.aspx I also have a pair of bass reflex enclosures (similar to Tekton) using the same drivers. Both enclosures sound very good with fantastic imaging, which is the strength of the single driver format. Nonetheless, they sacrifice the extreme highs and lows. I also have a pair of CT125s and a pair of T2A autoformers that I would like to re-purpose to add high frequency output to the single drivers. In fooling around crudely, it's apparent that the CT125s add the shimmer of cymbals to single drivers. The CT125s alone are too hot for the single drivers. I'm hoping to tame them slightly using the T2As. I'd like suggestions from those more knowledgeable that yours truly (which excludes essentially no one) about which taps to use on the T2As and/or about adding inductors and/or capacitors to the mix. I know there are better ways to skin this cat if starting with a blank sheet of paper, those suggestions I don't need. The whole purpose is to get the most out of what is already available with minimal additional expense. It's a hobby, not a business model.

Does anyone have a similar chart for the T2A?

Are these the speakers you built? If so, what is the crossover? Is the port (size & depth) correct?

This is welcome and expected news. Thank you for the update Amy. Please keep us posted on the progress of prosecutions.

Been there, done that. I't's a nuisance, but you must type the "less than" symbol, then "p" then the "greater than" symbol to start a new paragraph.

The link to a similar thread regarding a silent Heresy is below: http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/t/169684.aspx You should be able to isolate and solve the problem. Good luck.

Yes. She can see Russia from her kitchen sink.

Whatever you do, DO NOT OPEN it. Those $6 bottles of water and $3 bags of peanuts will break you.

The most basic test is to set the VM on the continuity setting. If touching one lead to each speaker lead doesn't show continuity (produce the same result as touching VM leads together), then your problem is probably a loose connection to the cross over. On the same setting, test each driver for continuity. Moray James' suggestions are the way to go. Take digital (is there still another kind?) photos of the connections before taking anything apart. As was suggested, label the leads. It's extremely unlikely--to the point of impossibility--that all three drivers are simultaneously kaput. Good luck.

Brett, I'm glad Glenn was able to help. After the holidays I'd like to listen to what you've accomplished.

I like Speakerfritz's idea. Odds are good a forum member would win it. He or she who values it the most can "win" it on eBay. The money could then go to PWK's favorite charity. New Mexico State University perhaps?

I share your addiction to discovering jazz gems on YouTube. Thanks for sharing. In fact, I lost my YouTube virginity a few years ago watching a video of a deceased jazz master (I forget who it was). That night and several since have seen hours disappear while feeding the addiction. The link below will make it easier for others to enjoy your find. EDIT: I don't know why the grey background on the text, more important, I don't care.

Wow, I never saw a 2' tall woman before.

I'm considering a Klipsch iGroove to allow my wife to play music from her Android phone (using an adapter). If anyone has an iGroove they want to shed, I'd be interested. I'm also open to other suggestions to get from Android to the room.

I gave my albums away when I donated the AR/SME turntable to Purple Heart. What they might be worth today?

Does anyone have experience using a bluetooth adapater, such as CoolStream available from Amazon, to connect bluetooth android phone to Klipsch iGroove? The Amazon site promises: CoolStream Bluetooth Receiver for iPhone Dock. 30-Pin Adapter Turns iPhone/iPod docking station into a Bluetooth dock. Is there another way to easily play music from Android phone through Klipsch iGroove?

Does anyone have experience using a bluetooth adapater, such as CoolStream available from Amazon, to connect bluetooth android phone to Klipsch iGroove? The Amazon site promises: CoolStream Bluetooth Receiver for iPhone Dock. 30-Pin Adapter Turns iPhone/iPod docking station into a Bluetooth dock. Is there another way to easily play music from Android phone through Klipsch iGroove? EDIT: 08/24/14 The photos referenced in posts below were deleted when this thread was migrated from the prior forum.

The subject of the thread may cause confusion. Initially. I inferred that you were disappointed by the Klipschorns. After reading the post, it seems the Klipschorns' superiority caused you to be disappointed by your La Scala based HT. Am I understanding you correctly?

To follow up Gil's comments above, it could well be a "Khorn" built from Speakerlab plans using Cornwall guts. If that were true and it was expertly made, it still is not worth $2,600. I owned 4 factory built SKhorns in the 70s. They were plywood with Atlas/350 metal squawker and EV T-35 tweeters. They were as close to a real Khorn as a clone got, but they wouldn't be worth $2,600/pair today. As has been said, the squawker horn doesn't look like a K-400 or the Speakerlab 350 (virtually identical). Regarding the side tweeter placement with vertical orientation, some argue it's actually better. The EV T-35 was designed for that orientation. PWK's decision to place it in a horizontal orientation is said to have been an economic engineering decision. It didn't make a "dime's worth of difference" in the performance, but it saved in the cost of construction to not make left or right Khorns, depending on tweeter placement.