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DizRotus

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Posts posted by DizRotus

  1. EDIT: 10/22/11

    The mylar has gone to a forum member to repair Magnepans. The thrust of the thread has changed to Speaker Builder projects. See later posts.

    Does any ambitious DIY forum member want the mylar I purchased from Sanders many years ago? I intended to build a pair of the Sanders electrostatics featured in Audio Amature/Speaker Builder. It's still in the box in which Sanders sent it.

    I'll pay the postage.

    The Speaker Builder article can be seen at: http://www.sanderssoundsystems.com/downloads/speaker_builder_dec_1980_an_electrostatic_speaker_system_Part_II.pdf

    The Sanders Systems website: http://www.sanderssoundsystems.com/

  2. You're right . . . too many variables. If the woofers, squawkers and tweeters are intact, the cost to refurbish the balancing networks is minimal. Even if you need to replace woofers and/or, tweeters, the cost (time spent DIY or to pay a professional) to bring the finish to like new furniture quality could exceed the operational rebuild.

    The range is $100 to the sky's the limit.

  3. Does any ambitious DIY forum member want the mylar I purchased from Sanders many years ago? I intended to build a pair of the Sanders electrostatics featured in Audio Amature/Speaker Builder. It's still in the box in which Sanders sent it.

    I'll pay the postage.

    The Speaker Builder article can be seen at: http://www.sanderssoundsystems.com/downloads/speaker_builder_dec_1980_an_electrostatic_speaker_system_Part_II.pdf

    The Sanders Systems website: http://www.sanderssoundsystems.com/

  4. "The staleness (kind of chewey) of the popped corn was as much of a downer to me as the no-stick-salt"

    You must allow the steam to escape as the corn pops. I use a cheap aluminum non-stick 3 qt. saucepan with holes drilled in the lid to allow steam to escape. It's used for nothing else. I pour in the oil (peanut or canola) to cover the bottom and put in 3 kernels on high heat.

    After they pop I pour the popcorn (usually Orville's) into the hot oil so that the bottom is covered and eack kernel is covered with oil. I then swirl the pan so that the kernels will heat evenly. The popping occurs so violently that shaking the pan is not necessary. Even with the holes in the lid, I move the lid up and down at one side to vent more steam.

    The popping would blow the lid off the pan if I didn't pour the initial wave into a bowl. The pan is retuned to the heat and the popping continues. When concluded, I have 6 qts. of tender salt friendly popcorn from a 3 qt pan.

    My wife says to follow the directions on the Orville's label, but that's too easy.

  5. Duke Ellington is often quoted: "There are two kinds of music. Good music and the other kind."

    A friend is a professional violinist. His tastes are eclectic, skewed toward "classical." He played on a Roy Orbison recording session. Although not his musical preference, he was impressed with Roy's professionalism, attention to detail and incredible vocal range.

  6. My new jubs are being finished in Raw Birch

    You're ordering a pair from the factory or are these a clone pair?

    You getting the 402 for the top or something else? Active?

    Congrats to you..... you'll have to post some pictures on arrival/setup & give your opinion. There are a handful of people who made the leap of faith and bought them without ever hearing them first. I don't know if I could have done that. Being familar with the Klipsch sound and having LaScalas and (at the time) Khorns..... perhaps I could have... I don't know.

    Big SmileBig SmileBig SmileBig SmileBig Smile Thank-you and thanks to all the jub owners for their valuable opinions and comments. When I was 19 back in 1975 I was offered a job in a HiFi shop and sitting in the corners were a pair of decorators finish Khorns, in 1976 I ordered my LaScalas and then use them to mix live bands with my Marantz 1200B 70's - 80's. So the jubs are a logical addition for me after reading the AES-Volume 48, Number 10, 2000 October on the Jubilee development by Paul & Roy, together with jub owner opinions and comments. It's as if I already know what to expect. My "Factory" jubs (soon to arrive) with 402 & K69 powered by a pair of Pass Labs X350.5 Bi-amped 1 ch for lf 1 ch for hf. The A&H iDR8 will be pre amp, xover, eq and matrix remixing of 5.1 from "proposed OPPO BDP-95" into 4 channels. hdmi direct to proposed LG 65LW6500 TV.

    I will be using my (1975) Marantz 1200B with my "sisters" (1981) Heresy 1's as rear surrounds.

    Possible Heresy upgrade is Bi-amp 409 & K69.

    My Yamaha C2a pre and B2x power drive my (1976) LaScala, possible upgrade is Bi-amp 402 & K69.

    If I Bi-Amp the Heresy and LaScala I will use the B2x for the hf's and the 1200B for the lf's the iDR8 as xover, etc.

    Here is the pic of the lf's in the factory that Roy sent to me on 28th July 2011

    Rodrocket-

    This deserves a thread of its own. Otherwise, it'll go unnoticed in this trolling expedition.

  7. EDIT: It just occurred to me that the photos show the underside of the turntable. Therefore, transpose each reference to up, down, top, bottom, etc, below to its opposite.

    The photos suggest that the top of the cylinder is screwed to the cylinder. Is there a tight seal? You don't want extra virgin leaking on your vinyl.

    I the suspect that lifting the tone arm drives the white rings down in the cylinder with enough force to permit the fluid (whatever it is) to get past the rings into the upper part of the cylinder. The relatively light weight of the tonearm slowly pulls the rings back up. The fluid in the cylinder slowly moves from the upper part of the cylinder past the rings back to the lower part of cylinder. If that system contains a liquid and it's not sealed, it could get messy.

    Try a small amount of petroleum jelly. You might get lucky. That small amount of friction might be inconsequential when lifting the tonearm, but enough to damp the descent.

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