DizRotus

Two interesting vintage speakers. As Khorn51 points out below, only the Brociner is a licensed version of a Klipschorn. EV Patrician http://cgi.ebay.com/electro-voice-patrician-model-800-speaker-/230611848573?_trksid=p3286.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D3%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D8739834018862326846 Brociner-Lowther http://cgi.ebay.com/Brociner-Lowther-PM3-Klipschorn-Klipsch-50s-corner-horn-/220772536527?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item33671190cf PWK once asked me, " Do you know what a Patrician is?" Before I could reply about the EV Patrician, he said, "A patrician is someone who steps out of the shower to take a leak."

There is one with a 4,500 hz crossover.

Bob Crites went to considerable expense to have horns fabricated that replicate the horns used on the K-77 (EV T35) and that attach easily to the APT150 driver. That makes the CT125 a drop-in replacement physically and visually. It's my understanding that the driver of the APT150 is the same as that in the CT125. If that's correct, and, if you aren't looking for a "drop in," you can use the CT150.I tried the CT125 in Heresy speakers. I purchased the CT125s from a forum member who preferred the K-77. I felt the difference in the Heresy was subtle. The speakers were eventually sold to another forum member. The benefit of the CT125 is probably best realized when combined with a lower (4,500 hz) crossover point. Bob feels the K-55 benefits from the lower crossover, but the K-77 can't be crossed over at that frequency.

The attached AK-3 schematic was also taken from a prior thread, but it seems to be accurate. Note that F2, a 1.25 amp fuse, is inline with the squawker and the tweeter. Since you know the tweeter and woofer work, you need not be concerned about the fuses; they're OK.

My son, Scott, wants to sell his 2009 VW Rabbit/Golf that he purchased while stationed in Germany. He's currently living in Arlington, VA attending GW, courtesy of USA in exchange for time in Afghanistan. It's a black 5 speed 5 cylinder 2 door hatchback with approx 29K. Any suggestions on selling such a car? He wants to sell it quickly to Car Fax or a dealer. The expenses of ownership are not justified given his current student status.

Dave, Several of the Scott integrateds and a well made Eico HF-81 would be on that list, probably ahead of the SCA-35, no disrespect to the Dyna. I also listen to TV and movies over DIY LS3/5As with DIY KEF B-139 TL subwoofers that are more than 30 years old. I've never felt the need to upgrade, but it's only TV after all.

"Am I correct in assuming that if the tweeter works, the fuse should be good?" I believe that to to be the case. The HF fuse seems to protect everything but the woofer. The AK-3 schematic above was cadged from another thread, so I can't vouch for its accuracy. It seems to show a 2.5 amp fuse for the woofer and a 1.25 amp for the squawker and tweeter. I believe the tweeter is incorrectly also labled "squawker." In the days of tube amps, Klipsch didn't feel the need for fuse protection. As cheap solid state high watt amps became the norm, PWK decided to fuse his speakers to protect them from the "stoves" (high watt amps). It's my theory that the fuses were put on the woofer access door to be deliberately difficult to check and replace. PWK probably added the fuses to document "excessive" power as much as to protect the drivers. Those patches inside cell phones that turn pink to show "excessive" moisture are analogous. It would've been much easier to put the fuses on the outside, where they are more easily accesssible, if they were intended to be checked and replaced by the user.

To many, the music is more important than the delivery system. A superb system won't make inferior music and/or an inferior recording more enjoyable. Conversely, an excellent recording of excellent music is still enjoyable when played on a clock radio, or even a Bose music machine. Sure it's better on an excellent system, but the diminishing return factor is tremendous. I like to amaze friends with the sound from my DIY single driver (Radio Shack 40-1197) rear horns powered by a mildly modified Dynaco SCA-35 using a Toshiba DVD player. They routinely remark at how much better it sounds than their large expensive systems. One friend likens it to turning water into wine. The whole system cost me less. than $300. One of the enclosures is in the attached photo, but the RS 40-1197 driver is not yet installed. Are they even more impressed by Cornwalls or La Scalas? Sure they are, but not enough to justify (to them) the difference in cost, size and low WAF (which is not to suggest that my DIY single drivers have any WAF). Many people would rather spend their money going to concerts or buying music. It doesn't make sense to them to spend many thousands more on the hardware than on the music to be played.

chisoxpurdue, Thanks for sharing the info. Given your forum name, the current state of the Sox must be disappointing. What gives?

Do your networks look like this? Are they AK-3s?

You previously indicated that all drivers work, except one squawker driver. Nonetheless, after you've confirmed that all fuses are intact, contact Bob Crites (BEC on this forum) at http://www.critesspeakers.com/. Bob can review your threads and be able to give you informed answers. Bob has forgotten more than most on this forum know, or will ever know. You appear to have AK-3 networks. Even in the unlikely event that a blown fuse prevents only the squawker from operating, Bob can advise you regarding refreshing/updating 17 year-old networks. You can find much more information using the forum's search function, but some pertinent threads are identified below: Crossover Experimenting ALKs, Type Bs and AK3s http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/t/56743.aspx?PageIndex=2 AK-3 Crossover http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/p/16249/127484.aspx#127484 AK-3 Klipschorn fuse question http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/p/77722/769092.aspx#769092 AK-3 network mod http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/p/58797/573681.aspx#573681

As you can tell, Noah is also assuming that the driver leads are attached to the balancing networks (aka crossovers) by screw terminals. The photo in your other thread shows an AK network. I've got no personal experience with that network, but my guess is the answer to your question is yes. I recommend contacting Bob Crites (BEC on this forum) at http://www.critesspeakers.com/. Bob can review the threads and be able to give you informed answers.

Poorly soldered connections can appear to be physically tight, but still be electrically bad. It's definitely likely that one or more of the soldered connections is at fault.

If you're saying that all connections at the balancing network are soldered, that's not normal. It would also probably be the source of the bad connection that is preventing continuity.Could you take a picture of the newtork? The attached photo shows a network that is similar. but not identical. to yours. Note the vast majority of the connections are mechanical (screwed not soldered). The same should be true on yours. You should be able to locate the mid (squawker) leads on the barrier strip and disconnect them to place a battery between the leads to do the scratch test. Prior to disconnecting any of the wires label them with tape and take photos so you can return the wires to the appropriate locations. Good luck!

If the leads are soldered then readings from a DVM, ohm meter, etc. will be all but useless as there will be continuity through the balancing networks and/or the drivers. As an alternative to using a boom box, get a piece of wire and connect it to one end of a AA or AAA battery. While touching the other end of the battery to one driver terminal, scratch the end of the wire connected to the battery across the other terminal. Again, polarity is irrelevant at this point. If the voice coil is intact you will hear a scratching sound from the driver.

You made the right choice. No volcanoes on Oahu, just palm trees, ABC stores and very aggressive hookers.

You've already done the forum a service by resurrecting this amazing thread. Please post some photos of your LBs

Enjoy, I wasted my only trip to Hawaii on Oahu. It was enjoyable but the Big Island is probably much better. Honolulu is like Chicago with palm trees and with an ABC store and aggressive hookers on every block.

Double check all of the connections at the networks; test the dead driver with a AA battery. When you bridge the terminals with the battery in line, you should hear scratching from the driver; or swap the mid drivers between the speakers to see if the problem follows the driver. I'd be surprised if the driver is bad (much more likely if it were one of the tweeters). It's more likely a bad connection at the network.

The depth of the cabinet is too shallow to permit the same squawker horn used in Khorn and La Scala.

Congratulations! Enjoy your day off tomorrow with your new acquisitions.

The serial number is the best way to date a Heresy. Without seeing the drivers, networks or serial numbers, it takes a more knowledgeable Klipschophile than yours truly to provide even a date range.

dtel, I tried to send you an email through the forum but it was kicked back. I also sent you a PM. Please send me an email or PM. Thanks,

That does date one as almost old. You can delete the "almost." I arrived at MSU in the fall of 1967. I'm OLD.

"p.s. I wont even bore you with how he "lost" my mint condition 1967 mustang back when I left for college!" All '67 Mustangs were "mint condition" when I left for college.