RadBlue

Got my Z-brackets yesterday and installed the CT120's. I've only managed some 8 hrs listening since then so for now I'll just put up some preliminary POI's. 1. I set my trebble to flat and so far haven't had the urge to raise it ( big plus for me) 2. While I'm hearing more in the hi's I'm not getting anything sizzley , very smooth sound. 3. Definitely consider these to be an Upgrade in SQ so far. I'll try to post more details this weekend, I'm off work for a while so will have lots of time to listen this week.

I blew 1 of my LSII tweeters about a week before you did yours in. I've had a factory replacement in for about 3weeks now. When first installed I found the new one brighter,crisper? than the old one. It took about 2 weeks for them to lvl out, but I still think the new one sounds just a lil..well newer? lol Any how I received a set of Crites CT120'sjust waiting on the z brackets that I didn't order with the tweets 😳 doh! Hoping they will be in by Monday. Back to original question, yes I do think thers a burn in time, give it another week

YESSS!!… I do love a screamer ! 😁😉

This vid was a follow up of a vid he made " great sound system for $950 " where he does the RP-600M matched with a $400 NAD integrated, and goes on about how good it sounds. Seems he did this kinda for shits n giggles hooking them up to $40K worth of gear. What I took away from it was that they sound great on $400 but sound better on high-end gear. Basically saying yer not wasting your hi-end stuff hooking it up to these.

You still made me feel better, I only blew one LSII tweeter 😃

Thnx for the info . I was concerned when I heard the CT120's needed a cabinet mod, but looking at how small a round that is there that really would be a few mins with a file to fix. My main concern was the mod would mean I couldn't go back to the original tweeters but this isn't the case. Today my 85 yr old mother asked me what she could get me for x-mass....now I'm thinking a pair of CT120's 😁 Perhaps you can sent me a pm with a price

Hi, I'm in the same boat as you, I blew my right tweeter last week. ATM I'm waiting for my replacement to arrive. I can walk ya threw the disassembly of the top-hat. First remove the grill , I used a butter knife slipped between the grill and faceplate frame and gently pried it out. Theres 4 lil magnets holding it. Once the grill is off you can see 4 screwheads (what the lil magnets hold onto) remove these and the faceplate comes off. Now you can see all the motor-board screws, leave them for now. Next flip the box face down so you can see the back screws, remove all the screws along the edges. Gently lay the box flat like it would be on the bass-bin. The crossover is mounted on the backplate so gently pry it off and lie it down(crossover up) and then pull the bass wires up threw the bottom hole. Disconnect the mid wires at the driver and then the tweeter wires at the crossover circuit board. You can now move the backplate off to the side. next flip the box face up to get at the motor-board crews and remove them. Then flip box face down and lift the box off the motor-board. You now have easy access to the tweeter screws.

Just want to say thnx to all for their suggestions. After flip-flopping a few times in the end I decided on both lol. Just ordered a replacement for the factory K-77-D as I figured either way I should have a working set of factory tweeters. But as Westcoast stated, and knowing myself, in the end I may need a set of Crites. I'll prob contact Mr. Crites after X-mass to inquire about options from him. thnx again all

First thing popped into my head was the Cambridge DAC Magic Plus. nice sound and doubles as a digital pre-amp, would be a good choice as you already heard it and liked the sound.

Sweet, just what I was looking for, some hands on experience 😃. This gives me more to think about. With this info I may lean more towards the CT120's. I'm always turning up the treble on the stock LSII's. This could be due to 35yrs doing concrete work, jackhammers saws, loud heavy machinery ect.. I know I don't hear above 13khz. I think I've already got to the point where I may heed the hotter top-end lol. I normally listen at 80-85db at MLP, but some times, when no-ones around, that certain song comes on and thers this lil voice saying more.....mooooore ...MMOOOOORE!!! and I go off the deep end for a few songs till its out of my system The CT120's my be just what I need, thanks again for your input.

Well it was just the right tweeter, left still works fine. Funny thing is they still sound fantastic , it was only when I sat in the sweet spot to relax and listen that I noticed the left seemed just a bit louder than the right, and then I noticed the imaging on some female vocals were a little off to the left . then got up and stood close to the left and listened, then the right. Put my ear to the right and nothin

Thnx for input. Amp I'm using is an Emo XPA-2Gen3, 300watts rms/ch 8ohms so I'm positive its not an under power/clipping issue, quite the opposite. I know it's way to much amp but I purchased it for a set of RF-7iii's( which it was perfect for) and only had it a few days when the deal on the LSII's appeared. As for how loud I have played , highest peek SPL I measured was 116db at my MLP ( 11feet from left and right, centered.) Dire Straits Money for Nothing 😆

Hi all, seems I got a lil carried away listening to tunes last week when no-one was home and now my right top-hat has a dead tweeter . I purchased these last May on auction from a local dealer ( they were their floor model demo's) and did receive the 5 year warranty ( but this may fall under "abuse " 😳 ), so that may not be an option. I've done a lot of reading on these forums on LS's and possible " upgrades " on tweeters for them but seems they were mostly about the original LS's with very lil info on LSII's specifically. SO atm I'm in need of info relating : 1) what would be the factory replacement model ? 2) what possible options are out there for more "robust" aftermarket replacements specifically for LSII's The S/N off the top-hat is " LSIIBK+12370002 " if this helps. thnx in advance.

From what I've read about different crossovers it not so much is "A" better than "B" but more like A sounds different that B, so just depends on your preference. If you like how they sound now then I don't think you need to switch. That said others on the forum here who have experience with both could give you an Idea of what the difference in SQ sounds like.

Some turntables have a ground and some don't , if yours doesn't then you don't need it. Been a long time since I used TT,s but I seem to recall needing to select MM or MC based on the stylus type, is there a switch for that on the speaker near the inputs?

https://www.gentec-intl.com/brands/ If you ordered direct (not from a dealer) then that link is where to go to inquire about warranty In Canada.

The RF-7iii's are quite the jump over the RP-280f's, if you went that way you would also need to up your center to the matching RC-64iii's. Also, the RF-7 series love power,more you feed them the better they sound so a 3 channel amp that can do a clean 200-300wpc@8ohms would be recommended to run the front soundstage. At this point the ppl on these forums would need to know more about your situation, room size, budget ect… to be able to guide you on what would work best.

As a quick test I just put my r-250c on the floor and stood on it, I weigh 220lbs, didn't effect it at all

Also using a Emo DC-1,xlr's to the amp and rca's to a pair of subs,very happy with it.

I'm using an Emotiva XPA-2Gen 3 with my LaScala ll's and don't find it bright at all , in fact I usually up the treble a bit

The difference in the bass sound is due to the bass drivers being horn loaded as opposed to radiant. This was the biggest difference I noticed when moving from RF-7iii's to La Scala ll's. Yes it's cleaner, faster and more precise.

This preamp was designed with that in mind https://emotiva.com/collections/pre-amps/products/xsp-1 You hook up everything as usual to your HT proc but the front L/R go threw this, when its on HT bypass proc does everything , when you turn the HT bypass off this pre runs your fronts in stereo.

Warranty's are no longer transferable, I found that out when I inquired about transferring warranty on my RF-7iii's when I sold them.

They don't look like RF-82ii's : https://web.archive.org/web/20110801202751/http://www.klipsch.com:80/rf-82-ii-floorstanding-speaker They look more like RF-280's

My solution to the grill on/off issue