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Posts posted by RadBlue

  1. On ‎12‎/‎13‎/‎2018 at 9:29 PM, WMcD said:

    This fellow is not making a logical statement that I can follow.


    He does seem to be saying he likes very much the Klipsch powered by by a lot of high end electronics.  Then he backtracks and says he is not suggesting that anyone do it.  Huh?  


    There is praise for dynamics and microdynamics.  Just like PWK says about inner voices.  Yet he is not admitting that this is  phenomenon of the speaker.  


    There is the implication that the Klipsch speaker and maybe others, benefit from high quality sources.  Okay, we knew that.


    Note that his is using Pass equipment.  He does not credit Pappa though.


    Is he saying that it takes $4000 to get a good source?  Not quite but that is the implication.  As if the cost of the electronics should match to cost of the speaker.   Please, please, I ask, find us some low cost electronics you can recommend.  I'd think anyone can cob together some triodes  and get excellent results.


    It is revealing, and perhaps honest (so ya gotta like him) about the showroom ruse.  











    This vid was a follow up of a vid he made " great sound system for $950 " where he does the RP-600M matched with a $400 NAD integrated, and goes on about how good it sounds.

    Seems he did this kinda for shits n giggles hooking them up to $40K worth of gear. What I took away from it was that they sound great on $400 but sound better on high-end gear.

    Basically saying yer not wasting your hi-end stuff hooking it up to these.

    • Like 2
  2. On ‎12‎/‎7‎/‎2018 at 10:56 PM, JFHSQT said:


    Two very different situations that shan't be repeated again. The tweets were because I was booting up my Mac Mini after moving my Luxman L-509X and not realizing the volume knob had brushed against my chest and been turned up to 12... immediately after turning on sent a burst of digital noise at over 100 dB... the tweeters never had a chance. The JBLs were the stupid result of trying to volume match a 90 dB sensitivity speaker with a 104 dB sensitive La Scala II in the other channel. 

    90% of the time I'm listening at night at around 85 dB tops... But I have learned some hard lessons over the past few weeks :)

    You still made me feel better, I only blew one LSII tweeter 😃

  3. On ‎12‎/‎7‎/‎2018 at 7:44 PM, BEC said:

    Lots of CT120s have been installed in the Lascala II.  Problem is that at some point Klipsch stopped squaring the corners of the cutout for the tweeter.  The K-77D does not need them squared but the CT120 does.  A few guys have fixed that in a couple of minutes with a file, but not a job for everyone.  I do not know exactly when that change to the rounded corners happened but at least the first several years of production, there was not that problem.


    On another subject, lots of tweeters get blown in the Lascala II.  I sell lots of diaphragms and K-77D tweeters to fix those.  Problem is that, in my opinion the polyswitch is just not quick enough to operate and prevent damage when something really quick happens.  The polyswitch has to heat up so is good for protection from high continuous power, but sudden high power or a quick transient just takes the 2 watt rated tweeter right out.  Even in the olden days when the polyswitch was used in the old AL networks, when that network was used in the Pro version Lascalas, they put in zener diodes.  Those will handle the quick transients. 

    Bob Crites

    Thnx for the info . I was concerned when I heard the CT120's needed a cabinet mod, but looking at how small a round that is there that really would be a few mins with a file to fix. My main concern was the mod would mean I couldn't go back to the original tweeters but this isn't the case.

    Today my 85 yr old mother asked me what she could get me for x-mass....now I'm thinking a pair of CT120's 😁

    Perhaps you can sent me a pm with a price  :)

  4. 36 minutes ago, JFHSQT said:

    Thanks for all the great advice, it's been very helpful.


    A couple of things...


    I haven't opened the cabinet and done any testing with voltmeters, etc...


    But I did the "cardboard tube" test, and it does appear that it's actually only the RIGHT tweeter that is blown. This would explain why I was able to hear the cymbals, etc in a recording like Chick Corea Trio's "Trilogy" but the recording still overall sounded muffled and lo-fi. 


    One big fear I have is that I have never opened a speaker before, I am not really electronically inclined. I'm sure I can unscrew tweeters and horns and replace them, but things like inspecting networks, etc is totally greek to me. Dean, what you are saying makes sense but I have no clue how I would go about inspecting crossovers, networks, etc. If I just swapped out both tweeters would this still be necessary?


    So I am thinking the easiest (not the cheapest) thing to do would be would be to simply order new K-77 tweeters and unscrew the old ones and screw in the new ones and plug them in, correct?


    Then a possible "upgrade" option would be to call Crites and order a pair of new CT-120s, which would provide (according to reviews I've read) a smoother high end than the stock K-77.


    What is the difference between the CT-120s and the B&C DE 120s on Parts Express?


    Also, the final BIG question - I cannot see how in the world the top cabinet comes apart to access the tweeters. It looks like a big molded veneer box, even the front grill seems to be built into the box. Is this a simple job that I am missing somehow? Can I do this myself with a screwdriver in my living room?


    The last thing I want to do is get a service center involved where I have to move these or wait for weeks for repairs.


    In the meantime I've put my RP-150Ms on top of the LS IIs and I'm using them instead along with my SB-16 Ultra. I wish I could say "Wow, there really isn't THAT much of a difference between the RP-150Ms and the La Scala IIs!" Hahahaha! But that is not the case :(


    Hi, I'm in the same boat as you, I blew my right tweeter last week. ATM I'm waiting for my replacement to arrive.

    I can walk ya threw the disassembly of the top-hat.

    First remove the grill , I used a butter knife slipped between the grill and faceplate frame and gently pried it out. Theres 4 lil magnets holding it.

    Once the grill is off you can see 4 screwheads (what the lil magnets hold onto) remove these and the faceplate comes off. Now you can see all the motor-board screws, leave them for now.

    Next flip the box face down so you can see the back screws, remove all the screws along the edges. Gently lay the box flat like it would be on the bass-bin.

    The crossover is mounted on the backplate so gently pry it off and lie it down(crossover up) and then pull the bass wires up threw the  bottom hole.

    Disconnect the mid wires at the driver and then the tweeter wires at the  crossover circuit board. You can now move the backplate off to the side.

    next flip the box face up to get at the motor-board crews and remove them. Then flip box face down and lift the box off the motor-board.

    You now have easy access  to the tweeter screws.

    • Like 1
  5. Just want to say thnx to all for their suggestions. After flip-flopping a few times in the end I decided on both lol.

    Just ordered a replacement for the factory K-77-D as I figured either way I should have a working set of factory tweeters.

    But as Westcoast stated, and knowing myself, in the end I may need a set of Crites.

    I'll prob contact Mr. Crites after X-mass to inquire about options from him.

    thnx again all


  6. 15 hours ago, KeithMcGowan said:

    Hey all,


    I was hoping for some budget DAC recommendations. Hoping for some thoughts at a couple price points, so maybe a cheap (<$150) and value (<$400). I used a Cambridge Audio DacMagic years ago and thought it was pretty nice sounding for the money. That's my only reference on value DACs.


    So, whatcha got?  Thanks for any suggestions!

    First  thing popped into my head was the Cambridge DAC Magic Plus. nice sound and doubles as a digital pre-amp, would be  a good choice as you already heard it and liked the sound.

  7. 21 minutes ago, pbphoto said:

    I believe the replacement would be the K77-D.  I've swapped between the stock K77-D and CT120s on my LSII's at least 20 times and keep coming back to stock.  On paper, the CT120 looks better and can handle more power, but the K77 integrates better as a whole with the crossover and squawker in the LSII.  For example, above about 8khz, the CT120 gets very hot on the LSII, by as much as +4-5db at 10khz vs the K77.  Even after eq'ing this out, the K77 is a better match with the crossover and other horns in the LSii IMHO.  Although if you keep listening at 116SPL at your MLP, you might need the stronger top end of the CT120 sooner than you think 😉

    Sweet, just what I was looking for, some hands on experience 😃. This gives me more to think about. With this info I may lean more towards the CT120's. I'm always turning up the treble on the stock LSII's. This could be due to 35yrs doing concrete work, jackhammers saws, loud heavy machinery ect..  I know I don't hear above 13khz. I think I've already got to the point where I may heed the hotter top-end lol.

    I normally listen at 80-85db at MLP, but some times, when no-ones around, that certain song comes on and thers this lil voice saying more.....mooooore  ...MMOOOOORE!!!  and I go off the deep end for a few songs till its out of my system :)

    The CT120's my be just what I need, thanks again for your input.

    • Like 1
  8. 14 minutes ago, Westcoastdrums said:

    I'm quite surprised with an amp like that if you did blow them.... 

    Well it was just the right tweeter, left still works fine. Funny thing is they still sound fantastic , it was only when I sat in the sweet spot to relax and listen that I

    noticed the left seemed just a bit louder than the right, and then I noticed the imaging on some female vocals were a little off to the left . then got up and stood close to the left and listened,

    then the right. Put my ear to the right and nothin :(

    • Sad 1
  9. Thnx for input. Amp I'm using is an Emo XPA-2Gen3, 300watts rms/ch 8ohms so I'm positive its not an under power/clipping issue, quite the opposite.

    I know it's way to much amp but I purchased it for a set of RF-7iii's( which it was perfect for) and only had it a few days when the deal on the LSII's appeared.

    As for how loud I have played , highest peek SPL I measured was 116db at my MLP ( 11feet from left and right, centered.)  Dire Straits Money for Nothing 😆

  10. Hi all, seems I got a lil carried away listening to tunes last week when no-one was home and now my right top-hat has  a dead tweeter :(

    I purchased these last May on auction from a local dealer ( they were their floor model demo's) and  did receive the 5 year warranty ( but this may fall under "abuse " 😳 ),

    so that may not be an option. 

    I've done a lot of reading on these forums on LS's and possible " upgrades " on tweeters for them but seems  they were mostly about the original LS's with very lil info on LSII's specifically.

    SO atm I'm in need of info relating :  1) what would be the factory replacement model  ?   2) what possible options are out there for more "robust" aftermarket replacements specifically  for LSII's

    The S/N off the top-hat is " LSIIBK+12370002 " if this helps.

    thnx in advance.


  11. From what I've read about different crossovers it not so much is "A" better than "B" but more like A sounds different that B, so just depends  on your preference. If you like how they sound now then I don't think you need to switch. That said others on the forum here who have experience with both could give you an Idea of what the difference in SQ sounds like.

    • Like 1
  12. 1 hour ago, Shadowx81 said:

    Is the ground wire important to getting good sound quality from the records? It was listed as "optional" on the instructions and there is no place to connect it to my record player.

    Some turntables have a ground and some don't , if yours doesn't then  you don't need it. Been a long time since I used TT,s but I seem to recall needing to select MM or MC based on the stylus type, is there a switch for that on the  speaker near the inputs?

  13. The RF-7iii's are quite the jump over the RP-280f's, if you went that way you would also need to up your center to the matching RC-64iii's. Also, the RF-7 series love power,more you feed them the better they sound so a 3 channel amp that can do  a clean 200-300wpc@8ohms would be recommended to run  the front soundstage.

    At this point the ppl on these forums would need to know more about your situation, room size, budget ect… to be able to guide you on what would work best.

    • Like 3
  14. On ‎10‎/‎11‎/‎2018 at 5:22 PM, jimmix93 said:

    Hi guys, thinking to add an external amp to my HT system, driven by Denon X3400H, RP-280F (which I'm going to use them on the external amp). I just need a good stereo amp, by doing some researched I'm liking the Emotiva XPA amp, but then searching again on the net about this product I found someone saying that Emotiva is very bright, is this true? If so, could you please suggest me a good netrual amp? No need for tons of watts. Budget is around 1K.

    I'm using an Emotiva XPA-2Gen 3 with my LaScala ll's and don't find it bright at all , in fact I usually up the treble a bit

  15. 13 hours ago, Huiez said:

    Thanks! I'm not - out of dough right now anyway 😀. These have untouched original crossovers. Yesterday morning I was listening to Chorus II and this afternoon these in the same spot and same room. The bass on these Klipschorns is very good and of a different quality than the Chorus - cleaner perhaps? I am not good at describing sound. The dynamics are definitely superior and they seem even less tolerant of poor source material that the Chorus if that makes sense. I have been listening to a variety of stuff to get a feel for them. The mids and highs were smoother on the Chorus but the Klipschorns seem to fill the room effortlessly big sound and are more strident on the mids and highs. These definitely sound better than my Chorus II but don't embarrass them totally.

    The difference in the bass sound is due to the bass drivers being horn loaded  as opposed to radiant. This was the biggest difference I noticed when moving from RF-7iii's to La Scala ll's. Yes it's cleaner, faster and more precise.

  16. If you are going with separate amp and pre-proc I suggest looking at this https://emotiva.com/collections/amps/products/build-your-own?variant=6293371519019

    You can build the amp to your needs and they also have some proc's to choose from.

    I had a pair of RF-7iii's and ran an XPA-2 with them and they sounded incredible. RF-7's love power and these amps provide it .

    I should also say that I had at first hooked them up to a Sony AVR rated at 130wpc 2 channel driven and while they sounded good,they didn't achieve anywhere near 

    their potential until I fed them some quality 200-300 wrms /ch  power.

    To sum it up, personally I believe if you hook the RF-7iii's up to an AVR, yer never gonna hear what they can really do.

    • Like 1
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