JefDC

Behind a screen the up firing Atmos will definitely not work. Hard to imagine the large RP-8060FA's inside a wall, but it would remove nulls from reflected waves.

You have an excellent starting base already. The RP-8060FA and the RP-280FA are essentially the same speaker, RP-8060FA being the newer model. I would put the RP-8060FA's at the front with the Atmos section connected (assuming you have a flat ceiling). Depending on the size of the room I would put the RP-280FA's as Side Surround's with the Atmos connected and 'Klipsch 5.25 ??) as Surround Back. You will have to buy a Center speaker (RP- 504C, RP-404C, RP-600C and RP-500C all will do) RP-504 being the largest (I use a RP-404C with my RP-8060FA's). A subwoofer (or 2 or more, depending on budget and room) The RP-140SA can stay in the box. Both Receivers are excellent. Listen to this set-up first and then decide what you would want to change. The Klipsch 5.25 are the most questionable in this configuration but as Surround Rear has limited musical content I would start with that. There are different opinions on the ATMOS solution (ceiling mounted versus ceiling bounced), some prefer the bounced ATMOS but this depends heavily on the ceiling characteristics. Anyway I would start with the excellent speakers you already have and work from there. A variation would be to swap the Side Surround speakers with the Rear Surrounds. If the Klipsch 5.25 sound too different RP-600M's would blend in well.

I agree, his name can easily be read as Feed Dork

Informative review of the Heresy IV: https://www.whathifi.com/reviews/klipsch-heresy-iv Learned some new tidbits and want one now on top of it 😊

Possibly and probably not much. H/K was known to have stable amplifiers, I guess the gain would be minimal and depending on the impedance curve of the RF7III (which I cannot find) the RF7 had a dip to 2.7 ohms and RF7II dipped to 3.7 ohms. If you really want to push the envelope you need to look to amplifiers that match the peak power of 1000W (and stable) might be expensive - but honestly I don' t see the point if you are using it in a normal room - too loud. I would first use your present amplifier and see (hear) what the result is before buying a new one.

Hello, It is not clear to me whether you want only a 2 channel or multi-channel receiver. I use a XTZ A2-300 as (external) power amp (2 x 100 W @ 8 Ohm) with a Denon receiver on my RP-8060FA's. If your current Harman Kardon has an external output, you could just add this 2 channel amp. The amplifier is stable down to 2.7 Ω (2 x 460 W) - lots of current available. The amplifier uses Class D modules from ICEpower, which are known here on the forum and are generally well regarded as quality amps. The XTZ wesite (https://www.xtzsound.eu/product/edge-series) sets the price to 495€ - that is a very very good price for this amp. I found this nice test (original language German): https://www.areadvd.de/tests/test-xtz-edge-a2-300-ultrakompakte-und-leistungsstarke-stereo-endstufe-fuer-weniger-als-500-eur/ Translated version: 'click' on the picture to get a better readable version.

Beautifull restoration !! Regarding the measurements: I wonder whether people realize that other speakers in the room affect the measurements. Depending on the speaker in question they interact - mainly absorbing certain frequenties.

The only reason I can think of is Power handling, the RP-8060FA is 150/600 Watt, the RP-400M only 50/200 Watt. By putting the crossover frequency a little higher in the RP-8060FA the tweeter of can handle the higher power requirements. Edit: on top of that the sensitivity of the RP-400M is 5dB lower so the crossover of the tweeter can be lowered without (much) risk on damage due to excessive power to- and excursion of the diaphragm.

I don't understand why the crossover frequency of the RP-8060FA is higher (1750Hz) then the crossover frequency of the very small RP-400M (1500Hz). It seems counterintuitive. Any idea's ?

@jdmccall I found this nice test (original language German): https://www.areadvd.de/tests/test-xtz-edge-a2-300-ultrakompakte-und-leistungsstarke-stereo-endstufe-fuer-weniger-als-500-eur/ Translated version: 'click' on the picture to get a better readable version.

I like the less colored sound from the Audyssey but not the (small) change in soundstage.

It is a Denon AVR-X4300H. I think that you must enable 'Signatures' in your 'Account Settings' to see them. Copy of my Signature: - XTZ a2-300 amplifier powering RP-8060FA front speakers - Denon AVR-X4300H receiver powering a RP-404C center speaker - RP-240S surround speakers - RP-500SA ATMOS speakers and the ATMOS speakers in the RP-8060FA

For many months I have been 'appreciative' listening to my system (see below in the +Signature section) - appreciative because I don't like the term 'critical listening, IMO it conveys the wrong message). I wonder what your experiences are regarding in 'Direct-' or 'Audyssey corrected' mode. For music (2.0): Personally I notice that in Direct mode the speakers have some coloration mainly noticeable with voices but the overall sound; dynamics and especially the sound stage is better than Audyssey corrected. With Audyssey the coloration disappears but sound stage changes is less 'clear'. For movies(5.0.4) The Audyssey corrected mode gives a more coherent sound and is much preffered over manual adjusted parameters. Is this my imagination or are others noticing this as well. Note: these are subtle differences - both modes are perfectly enjoyable.

You can temporarily disable the rear speakers in the set-up of the Denon and increase the volume of the Center, but seems a lot of hassle - I would live with the standard Surround solution but YMMV.

Assuming the sound goes through your receiver. Input 'Stereo' sound and set the receiver in the Dolby surround or DTS Neural mode (or similar). If you have a very old receiver you might be stuck but seems unlikely.

A closed cell soft rubber mat that something I could try as well. Another good suggestion.

Might try that to see whether there is a change. Good idea for the back as that point is sitting on the unsupported part. I also considered filling the hollow space below the speaker with foam, that would dampen the resonances considerably but move them up in frequency. I feel I'm hi-jacking this thread 😬

Yes it works excellent, same principle as a spike : weight concentrated on a small surface = high pressure (kg/mm² or lb/in²). I made sure that the Lego are situated on the front where there is a beam inside the cabinet to minimize the vibrations. My 'superdeluxe' tv supports is a cellular concrete slab cut in half 😀

Sort of, I solved it like this: The Lego solution 😄 If I find suitable mini-spikes I will replace them, slipped my mind already ... Center is resting on 3 points (one point at the back not clearly visible). and Front view:

When I see pictures as these (only as an example nothing intended to wvu80) I always wonder what people do to decouple their Center from the supporting cabinet. I had serious resonance problems and sound coloration with my set-up which took a while to solve. Jef

I have RP-8060FA front speakers, RP-440C center and RP-240S surround speakers and cannot place the Atmos Elevation speakers in the immediate vicinity at the back. I would love to have an Atmos elevation speakers which can be placed on top of the irregular shaped RP-240S 's. As the recommend cros-over frequency is 150Hz the size of this kind Atmos elevation speaker could be made very small - certainly with a coaxial speaker for the HF. Just a suggestion, I would buy them in a heartbeat. Best regards Jef

I had a RC3 with my RF3's (17y ago) and was not happy with it, sounded small and muffled compared to the RF's. I can only imagine it will be even worse next to a RB-75. The RC-7 will match but difficult to find and a lot more expensive of course. Probably the newer Centers might be a better match as wel. Sorry for the 'pain in the a**' reply. Edit: I think you posted in the wrong forum (Garage Sale).

Yes and no, it will work but not optimal because the frequency curve is tweaked in ATMOS speakers to optimize the effect when bouncing. You can check the ATMOS add-on speakers for the power specs, as these speakers don't need to generate bass tones they can follow the main speakers quiet easily (cut off advised for the RP-500SA is 150Hz by Klipsch if I recall correctly) with a power rating of 75 Watts nominal.

Your reasoning is correct, amplifiers which can double their power when halving the load are better able to drive difficult loads. (other parameters must be considered as well off course). In your question the 70W one is more stable The Hypex is an excellent amplifier, an alternative is an XTZ Edge A2-300 amplifier @ about 500$ (you can easily google the site and specs). Here the link to the specs of the used Integrated Power Circuit; it goes in great detail: https://icepower.dk/download/2420/ Example for 4 and 8 Ohm figures below: Edi: forgot Power specs: 2 x 460 W (1% THD, 2.7 Ω) 2 x 300 W (1% THD, 4 Ω) 2 x 150 W (1% THD, 8 Ω)