Chorus1 Fan

Ports are in, & the lower bracing below the woofer opening is almost finished. I still need to glue in the crosspiece that ties the front-to-rear braces together. The "crosspiece" braces are what takes the flex out of side panels, (1 upper & 1 lower).

I think it depends on where you're putting em, & what you listen to. I am the "oddball" who did the opposite 😃 I bought a pair of pristine Chorus 1's , modified the ports (thread on here) then played em side by side for quite a while. I eventually sold my La Scala's I had bought new & owned since 1984 In my 12 x 14 (vaulted ceiling) listening room, I prefer the chest pounding mid bass the 15" Chorus pro woofer provides. My La Scalas just fell short side by side. (don't have room, & don't want a sub) The La Scala mid horn was better, but not by a mile. I'm still happy 3 years later w/o regrets. I don't miss my La Scalas, & would still do the same thing over for MY room.

The inside portions are 4" INTERNAL port flares (external one is shaped a little different) from "Parts Express" https://www.parts-express.com/Precision-Port-PSP-4IF-4-Inside-Flare-for-Port-Tube-268-377

I tried EVERYTHING, (too big, too little, etc.) & finally found these at a chain craft store called "Michaels". They're almost an exact fit. 1.) push them thru from the inside outward until about 3" sticks out the front. 2.) wind 2-3 layers of electrical tape around the end until it's a tight "press fit". 3.) pull it back thru by working it/wiggling it & install flush to the surface. 4.) Hot glue the inside seam, where the ports/wood meet. (makes em rock solid) I also use my chop saw with a fine tooth blade to trim to length. In the pic the right one is trimmed & the cut piece beneath it. https://www.michaels.com/white-shipping-tube-by-celebrate-it/M10323409.html?dwvar_M10323409_size=4&utm_source=CJ&utm_medium=2470763&utm_campaign=14079089&cm_mmc=Affiliate-_-CJ-_-2470763-_-14079089&affSource=2470763_14079089&cjevent=2c79bd6994ee11eb827d02db0a82b82c Here's a Link. My pic is from my 1st pair I did, (the 6.2" size), but the 10" size can be cut down into two ports (or 1 speaker), so cheaper to buy two 4 x 10" ones.

The ports are almost ready for install, they just need a final layer of A/C metalized tape over my glue joint (I use the foil tape made for a/c duct joints to provide extra stability)

Now listed as "pending", hopefully a forum member 😃

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1457026601295862/ Klipsch Oak KG 4.2's in Orlando. 150.00 for the pair! (no affiliation)

Crossovers are now done & ready for re-install. All the caps were the Klipsch originals from 1989 & due for a changeout... I ordered the "new" Klipsch approved JEM capaciter kit from Jim for 64.00. Then I had my local vintage stereo expert install em (been in business 35+ years) Probably be about 2 weeks before I sound test em though, gotta finish up the 7" port extensions 1st

Bracing is kinda like sushi: some love it, some hate it 😃 We all hear sounds differently, so I say "to each, their own" (no completely right or wrong answer) It's VERY subjective based on how YOU percieve sounds. I also think in some Klipsch models it's unnecessary, & may even be a "negative". But, in other models it may be an improvement. All I know is moderate bracing made a noticable difference (a good one) in my 1st pair of Chorus 1's & I liked it so much I'm doing it over again on my 2nd pair. I only post build threads & info for the curious, but would never try to sell everyone on the idea of "it's gotta be done".

Here's a pic of the small "cleat" glued on the side to side brace. This is what really glues the side brace to the side cabinet wall. You can also see my 3/4" x 3/4" brace on the front wall that provides additional stiffness to the narrow (weak) spot between the mid horn & woofer mounts on the front motorboard. (The 3/4" x 3/4" brace in the corner that runs top to bottom of speaker is a factory Klipsch piece on all 4 internal corners. The top/bottom corners have this too)

They were the factory original caps (& Jim sent em back w/o me asking) I haven't heard em yet, but the caps were from 1989, & "due". My Chorus 1's are apart for a few more weeks b/c I am also doing braces above & below the 15" woofers & installing 7" flared port extension again for the 2nd time (these are my 2nd pair of Chorus 1's 😃

I had a GREAT experience using JEM ! I Spoke with Jim via phone, (he's super nice & helpful) ordered the cap kit for my pair of Chorus 1's for 64.00$ I then had my local vintage stereo shop guy install em to prevent any potential shipping damage of the frail Chorus boards. (& he's an expert solderer, & has been in business 40+ years...

Chorus 1's get my vote. I also think they're realatively "underappreciated" even by Klipsch fans due to the Chorus 2 having a tractrix mid. (but in a small or normal "house sized" room this too is a non-issue. For my 13' x 12' listening room, I don't think I'd trade mine for ANY other model ! (& I had La Scala's in there prior to my Chorus 1's)

So, Jim (& HDBRBuilder), do you have any "inside info" on the Chorus 1 assembly line? (IE: why Klipsch mixed two substrates in one box)

Anyone here ever had or seen a "broken" Chorus 1 side panel? (Mookie?) Or burnt one 😂 Aha! "playing detective" I flipped em & took a pic of the riser wood. It's veneered (?birch) MDF just like you described. so I'm sure the sides/top/bottom are the same stuff. Still makes me wonder why Klipsch did that (cost, accoustics, etc.) I posted my "why" question over in the ask the historian section to widen the opinions ( esp. for Jim & HDBRBuilder's)

Then I could also see how it may have been easier to hot glue the factory corner bracing to a smooth veneered interior panel vs a plain mdf one.

Then I have a 3rd question 😃 I wonder what the cost difference was between a sheet of "double veneered" mdf -vs- the birch plywood they used for the front & rears? Was it a significant savings? If not, (significant savings) why didn't they just use plywood on all 4 sides... accoustics?

Two "Chorus 1" questions: 1. Why did they use both plywood (front/back) AND mdf (sides/top/bottom) in the Chorus 1's ? 2. Why veneer the INTERIOR side of an mdf side panel (see pic) Interior side panel pic, & front motorboard ply on the R

Thought so, & both are 1", but it appears to have less layers (& they are thicker) than the front motorboard plywood pic. I retook/edited the previous front motorboard pic to show layers better. I can count maybe 6 or 7 layers on the rear board, but either 10 or 11 are on the front, & those #'s don't include the surface veneer layers either. Thicker layers = my Mr. Plywood - Mrs. MDF joke 😂

Here's a woofer opening closeup pic for comparison (on the front motorboard panel)

Well, to add more to the "mystery" I just took a pic of the rear panel where the crossover mounts. What is this rear panel made of? layered MDF? (& I'm not asking as a smart aleck, just asking to clarify/learn... It looks like "Mr. Plywood" & "Mrs. MDF" had a baby 😂

Hard to "quote" an answer to all 3 of you at once, but here's why I said plywood This is a pic of one of the interior sides. (& other side is the same) I'm no woodworker, but sure looks like plywood to me... opinions ?

Upper crosspiece is on & clamped. Tomorrow I will glue a small block/brace on "top" of each end (actually it's beneath once speaker gets flipped upright). This ties the crosspiece to the side walls which REALLY firms it up & gives it that solid "thunk" when slapped 😃 & the Chorus side panels sure look like plywood to me (all the brochures say it's "mdf")

I know the "timbre matching" is supposedly off, but I've used a KSF C-5 more than once with Heresey's & it works great! Roughly the same sensitivity, & if anything the tractrix horn makes dialog super clear. Check ebay/FB marketplace, they're available & reasonably priced all the time (or maybe a forum member here has one to sell...)

Bracing is in progress! I included a pic to show the "method" I use. It's a combo of wood clamps and/or weights. I could pull the mid-horn & use two clamps, but I don't want to mess with their woodscrews... A "side to side" brace across the middle will be glued on next. (Adding 1 above the woofer & 1 below the woofer dramatically stiffens the speaker sidewalls) & Crossover is coming out soon for recap