Chorus1 Fan

ZZ Top: "Fool for Your Stockings" (best recording is found on "One foot in the Blues") Pat Donohue: "The Road to Kingdom Come" Police: "Murder by Numbers" Dire Straits: "Six Blade Knife" Los Lobos: "Kiko & the Lavendar Moon" Steve Winwood: "Higher Love" Pink Floyd: "Time" Thin Lizzy: "Cowboy Song" KD Lang: "Constant Craving" Tracy Chapman: "Fast Car" Cowboy Junkies: "Sweet Jane" John Secada: "Just Another Day" Shannon: "Let the Music Play" Ace of Base: "All that She Wants" Copeland: "Fanfare for the Common Man" Pachelbel: "Kanon" (On

Cool, & thanks! I would say don't expect a huge increase in bass, just a better, solid low end (depending on the recording) In my case, I used a cd bass freq "test tone" cd & did before/after testing. Before, anything below the 45hz note was barely audible. After, the dropoff moved down to 39hz - 38hz range.

Looks great, did you consider doing the "port mod" ?

I think those who say that must mean 100w via a modern a/v reciever. I say try your Onkyo 1st, then decide. I have a 70w Luxman (R-115) pushing my Chorus 1's & with the volume at about "10 o'clock" things start falling off shelves & my chest feels like CPR has started ! (& 0 distortion)

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1912674878890428/ No affiliation

Keep an eye out for a Luxman R-115. Power specs are underrated, (brochure says 70w, testing says 85w). It & it's more expensive big brother (R-117) sound "warm" & go GREAT with older Klipsch.

I tried EVERYTHING, & these are the best fit by far. But here's how: To get them TIGHT (a "pressed in" fit) do this: 1. Install finished tube in one at time from the inside out 2. leave an extra 3-4 inches of it sticking out through the hole 3. wrap as much electrical tape as needed on each one & test/repeat individually until it's hard to get back thru (some took 1 wrap, others took 3-4 complete wraps) 4. wiggle & gently press it back in to get a final "flush" fit & have it as tight fitting as possible 5. hot-glue the joint on the inside of the speaker where the port meets the back of the front motorboard wood. This makes em rock solid!

It won't fit (tried it) the factory opening is a little too small. But these will: https://www.michaels.com/white-shipping-tube-by-celebrate-it/M10323409.html?dwvar_M10323409_size=4" x 10"&dwvar_M10323409_color=White Detailed info on page 3 of this thread:

Ports are in, & the lower bracing below the woofer opening is almost finished. I still need to glue in the crosspiece that ties the front-to-rear braces together. The "crosspiece" braces are what takes the flex out of side panels, (1 upper & 1 lower).

I think it depends on where you're putting em, & what you listen to. I am the "oddball" who did the opposite 😃 I bought a pair of pristine Chorus 1's , modified the ports (thread on here) then played em side by side for quite a while. I eventually sold my La Scala's I had bought new & owned since 1984 In my 12 x 14 (vaulted ceiling) listening room, I prefer the chest pounding mid bass the 15" Chorus pro woofer provides. My La Scalas just fell short side by side. (don't have room, & don't want a sub) The La Scala mid horn was better, but not by a mile. I'm still happy 3 years later w/o regrets. I don't miss my La Scalas, & would still do the same thing over for MY room.

The inside portions are 4" INTERNAL port flares (external one is shaped a little different) from "Parts Express" https://www.parts-express.com/Precision-Port-PSP-4IF-4-Inside-Flare-for-Port-Tube-268-377

I tried EVERYTHING, (too big, too little, etc.) & finally found these at a chain craft store called "Michaels". They're almost an exact fit. 1.) push them thru from the inside outward until about 3" sticks out the front. 2.) wind 2-3 layers of electrical tape around the end until it's a tight "press fit". 3.) pull it back thru by working it/wiggling it & install flush to the surface. 4.) Hot glue the inside seam, where the ports/wood meet. (makes em rock solid) I also use my chop saw with a fine tooth blade to trim to length. In the pic the right one is trimmed & the cut piece beneath it. https://www.michaels.com/white-shipping-tube-by-celebrate-it/M10323409.html?dwvar_M10323409_size=4&utm_source=CJ&utm_medium=2470763&utm_campaign=14079089&cm_mmc=Affiliate-_-CJ-_-2470763-_-14079089&affSource=2470763_14079089&cjevent=2c79bd6994ee11eb827d02db0a82b82c Here's a Link. My pic is from my 1st pair I did, (the 6.2" size), but the 10" size can be cut down into two ports (or 1 speaker), so cheaper to buy two 4 x 10" ones.

The ports are almost ready for install, they just need a final layer of A/C metalized tape over my glue joint (I use the foil tape made for a/c duct joints to provide extra stability)

Now listed as "pending", hopefully a forum member 😃

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1457026601295862/ Klipsch Oak KG 4.2's in Orlando. 150.00 for the pair! (no affiliation)

Crossovers are now done & ready for re-install. All the caps were the Klipsch originals from 1989 & due for a changeout... I ordered the "new" Klipsch approved JEM capaciter kit from Jim for 64.00. Then I had my local vintage stereo expert install em (been in business 35+ years) Probably be about 2 weeks before I sound test em though, gotta finish up the 7" port extensions 1st

Bracing is kinda like sushi: some love it, some hate it 😃 We all hear sounds differently, so I say "to each, their own" (no completely right or wrong answer) It's VERY subjective based on how YOU percieve sounds. I also think in some Klipsch models it's unnecessary, & may even be a "negative". But, in other models it may be an improvement. All I know is moderate bracing made a noticable difference (a good one) in my 1st pair of Chorus 1's & I liked it so much I'm doing it over again on my 2nd pair. I only post build threads & info for the curious, but would never try to sell everyone on the idea of "it's gotta be done".

Here's a pic of the small "cleat" glued on the side to side brace. This is what really glues the side brace to the side cabinet wall. You can also see my 3/4" x 3/4" brace on the front wall that provides additional stiffness to the narrow (weak) spot between the mid horn & woofer mounts on the front motorboard. (The 3/4" x 3/4" brace in the corner that runs top to bottom of speaker is a factory Klipsch piece on all 4 internal corners. The top/bottom corners have this too)

They were the factory original caps (& Jim sent em back w/o me asking) I haven't heard em yet, but the caps were from 1989, & "due". My Chorus 1's are apart for a few more weeks b/c I am also doing braces above & below the 15" woofers & installing 7" flared port extension again for the 2nd time (these are my 2nd pair of Chorus 1's 😃

I had a GREAT experience using JEM ! I Spoke with Jim via phone, (he's super nice & helpful) ordered the cap kit for my pair of Chorus 1's for 64.00$ I then had my local vintage stereo shop guy install em to prevent any potential shipping damage of the frail Chorus boards. (& he's an expert solderer, & has been in business 40+ years...

Chorus 1's get my vote. I also think they're realatively "underappreciated" even by Klipsch fans due to the Chorus 2 having a tractrix mid. (but in a small or normal "house sized" room this too is a non-issue. For my 13' x 12' listening room, I don't think I'd trade mine for ANY other model ! (& I had La Scala's in there prior to my Chorus 1's)

So, Jim (& HDBRBuilder), do you have any "inside info" on the Chorus 1 assembly line? (IE: why Klipsch mixed two substrates in one box)

Anyone here ever had or seen a "broken" Chorus 1 side panel? (Mookie?) Or burnt one 😂 Aha! "playing detective" I flipped em & took a pic of the riser wood. It's veneered (?birch) MDF just like you described. so I'm sure the sides/top/bottom are the same stuff. Still makes me wonder why Klipsch did that (cost, accoustics, etc.) I posted my "why" question over in the ask the historian section to widen the opinions ( esp. for Jim & HDBRBuilder's)

Then I could also see how it may have been easier to hot glue the factory corner bracing to a smooth veneered interior panel vs a plain mdf one.

Then I have a 3rd question 😃 I wonder what the cost difference was between a sheet of "double veneered" mdf -vs- the birch plywood they used for the front & rears? Was it a significant savings? If not, (significant savings) why didn't they just use plywood on all 4 sides... accoustics?