mungkiman

It seems like some of the topics got shuffled on the new forum. It was last seen close to the end of the 2nd page of topics. Chris

Ed, First, excellent work! Great post for the DIY's in the group. I tested (listened to) the Cobreflex horns with the SAHF drivers this morning, as well as with K-55-V drivers. I like the K-55/Cobreflex combo better than the K-55/511B pairing. However, I like the SAHF/511B better than the SAHF/Cobreflex. I also like the SAHF/511B better than the K-55/Cobreflex. These are only my opinions. The opening of my adapters is the same size as the throat of the 511B. I am using the rubber washers that came out of my K400 horns though, restricting the opening somewhat. I don't know if this makes a difference (bug screen opening size) or not. Perhaps someone knowledgeable will speak more on this. The University horns are indeed two separate horns with what must be 60 degrees of horizontal dispersion apiece. They sound great with separation only very close to the horn mouth. The threads are the same as the K-55 and similiar drivers. I too, think some of you may like the University 4401 tweeters with your 511B or Cobreflex horns. Again just my opinion, but I like the sound. Chris This message has been edited by mungkiman on 09-14-2002 at 01:03 PM

Some of you may also be interested in trying University Cobreflex horns. Personally, I like the sound of the Cobreflex better than the 511B when mated to K-55 drivers. The dispersion is greater than the 511B too. 120 degrees horizontal and 50 degrees vertical for the University, and 90 degrees H by 40 degrees V for the 511B. The design of the University incorporates a 27" exponentially-flared air column, allowing crossover as low as 350 cps. I think this should make up for what is missing in the 400-500 Hz range. The folded design also allows for installation in smaller cabinets, and may help the WAF for some of you. Take care all, Chris P.S. No flange to threaded adapter needed. This message has been edited by mungkiman on 09-13-2002 at 06:29 PM

I have had some success removing and re-installing bug screens on various drivers. I have found most to be part of an insert as Gil mentioned. By grabbing the screen in the center with a dental pick and pulling, the screen deformed into an inverted cone. This decreased the diameter enough to slip out of the flange that holds it in place. For re-insertion, I simply slipped the screen back into place and flattened the screen from the outside with my finger. If the screen is pinched tight, you may have to slip something slender between the screen and the outer flange to free it. If the screen is loose after re-insertion, try peening the flange back tight to the screen. If you damage the screen upon removal, a replacement shouldn't be hard to find. Form it over your finger like a thimble, and you should be able to install it. Let us know if you decide to do it, and what you think. Chris

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1374388839

John, I would be MORE THAN HAPPY to buy all 5 SAHF drivers from you. I don't expect future auctions to command the prices demonstrated recently, and would happily accept/make a reasonable offer. Feel free to contact me on or off this forum. Chris

Ed! Many sincere thanks for your help with my current project. You have provided wisdom and advice, appreciated by me and I'm sure by others too. The SAHF drivers arrived yesterday, and the difference in sound is tremendous! You made my week, and I promise to help you as well as other forum members in any way that I can. Have a great weekend everyone! Chris

Try UL listed duct tape, as the generic tape is crap. Go to a heating/cooling distributor, and you will surely get what you need.

John- Check out this link: http://www.hifilit.com/hifilit/Klipsch/1957m.jpg The Shorthorn T was not available in kit form, was not limited to corner use, and had a greater efficiency at lower cycles per second than the more common model S. Chris

Definately see a doctor.....soon. 4 years ago, I fell off scaffolding that had been erected around a chimney. I landed on my *ss on the roof, but quickly slid off the steep roof and fell 3 stories to the ground. Somehow I managed to live through the ordeal. In serious pain but happy to be alive, I never filed an accident report nor sought medical attention. STUPID, STUPID, STUPID! I was in no position to asess my physical damage. Much of the pain went away temporarily, but continues to return. Close to a year later, I was at work but couldn't move my legs without great (shooting) pains. I chose to see a Chiropractor at my own expense which provided some temporary relief. My pelvis is tipped by 19mm, and my spine is offset by 21mm from where it should be to compensate. Since then, I have seen my primary care provider (***) on several occasions, but noone can tell me what happened in the accident. "Could be genetic" they say. I waited too long, and have found it difficult to get an accurate diagnosis. The doctor understands my discomfort, and has finally referred me to a physiatrist that I will see towards the end of this month. I don't know what help could have been offered immediately following the accident, but I will always wonder. I'm glad you told your Mom about your fall. Now you should tell your doctor. Sincerely, Chris

Ed- I haven't settled on a permanent solution yet, but will send you an e-mail regarding the SAHF drivers. To my ears, the best sounding combination has been the SAHF/511B pairing. The SAHF has been returned to my Shorthorn, and I currently have an Atlas PD4 mounted to the 511B. The T-30 drivers came recently, but I do not like the sound as well. Hopefully, the University Classic project will benefit from them with the Cobreflex horns, as my current project does not. Tom- Thanks for the warning about the galling. Can this be avoided with teflon tape? Is there a threaded to flange adaptor available made of steel? Thanks for any further help you may offer. Chris

Thanks for your patience. Honestly, I liked the SA-HF driver better than the K-55-V when mated to the Altec 511B horn. Still, I put the SA-HF back into my Shorthorn so I wouldn't have 2 sets of speakers disabled for 1 experiment. I have switched to a University Cobreflex 2 horn with the K-55-V driver and like the sound even better (than the K-55-V with the Altec 511B). Is this what I was missing in the 400Hz-500Hz range? I have T-30 drivers coming in the mail, and will audition them too. Ultimately the Cobreflex 2/T-30 combo will be utilized in a University Classic cabinet, but for now it's fun to play around with my ears as I switch components. Chris

JR, The grill cloth is attached to the grill frame. On the front of the motor board are 2 vertical 1/4" thick x 3/8" wide strips of plywood. They are 1/2" shorter than the height of the enclosure, and spaced 1/8" down from the top (3/8" up from the bottom), and 1/2" in from the edges. This should still allow access to the screws that secure the motor board to the enclosure. This also allows for a 1/4" thick piece (veneered ply) to fit between the grill frame and the motor board, concealing the base of the enclosure between the "legs". This 1/4" piece is also stapled to the grill frame. Good luck. Post pics! Chris

Capt'n Bob, the liquid wrench worked well, and I have listened to both the SAHF and the K-55-V. I will listen further before stating any preference. I'm not sure what I'm missing in the 400Hz to 500Hz range, and have only La Scalas and Sorthorns to compare with these Frankenspeakers. It's a one on one comparison I will make as I am sharing some components. If I find a combination that I like, I will still return the components to their original configurations and then buy replacements. Anyone else out there have dual tweeter comments? Thanks, Chris

How would I determine if the SAHF drivers could handle the additional power? Or, how would I limit the power to them? Would K-55-V drivers be a better choice? I'm using the AA networks from my '73 La Scalas now, so using the drivers is not an issue. The SAHF's are out of perfectly good Shorthorns that I could leave intact quite happily. Thanks for the "gripwrench" link. I have seen similiar intruments for opening jar tops, and they work well. This an educational experiment for me, and I appreciate the help. I can solder if changing tap settings is needed. Chris

I am working on a project and could use some assistance. First, are there any tools needed/suggested to unscrew drivers? I have a pair of '59 University SA-HF drivers that are mounted to K1000 horns. I have not been able to unscrew them, but would like to mount them to Altec 511B's (I have the flange to threaded adapters). Would an oil filter wrench be a good tool to use? Second, I need help with networks. I am using K-horn bass bins with K-33-P woofers (for now), the University SA-HF drivers with Altec 511B's, and either University 4401 or K-77 tweeters. I have been told that similiar component configurations sound great with K-500-5000 or older AA networks. Would newer ALK's also work? Third, if I wanted to use a second tweeter in each speaker, would this be a bad idea? If not, what other changes (i.e. network) would I have to make? Any and all help is appreciated. Thanks, Chris

Ray, I hear you. I'm sure there is some design/ engineering software somewhere that would help us answer these questions. I, like you, am interested in such things. I am also in the process of re-modeling my house, and would like to "build-in" bass enclosures and such. I have one available "closet" in my dining room 96"Tall x 36"Deep x 30"Wide that I'm itching to do something with. Also a window seat 18"Tall x 24"Deep x 112"wide. On the window seat, those dimensions would be for cubic volume considerations only. Trimmed out, the available opening would be closer to 6"Tall x 96"Wide. Can anyone help us? Thanks, Chris

Tom, Front panel is 10 3/4" tall. Measured from inside the cabinet, it is 10" tall. Again, from inside the cabinet, bottom to top, I have 1" material before K400 cutout (5 1/2" tall), 1 1/4" material between cutouts, 1 13/16" tall tweeter cutout, and 7/16" material left on top. Good luck with your project. Chris

The frame doesn't taper. It has a uniform thickness of 3/4". It also appears to be veneered rather than solid hardwood for at least some of the pieces. I can see the veneer from the top and bottom of the frame rails, but the stiles (verticals) might be solid wood. The terminal blocks for wiring should be what you need. The enclosures both have labels: Model: S.WO - 15 Serial: 993/994 With model 5 - 22 networks (K-1000-5000-W) They were tested and inspected Dec. 14th, 1959. Good luck! This message has been edited by mungkiman on 07-01-2002 at 08:13 PM

JR- I'm not sure I understand your first question. The grill frame is the same width, top and bottom, front and back, 25 1/2". The outside of the frame is square while the inside of the frame is not. The input wires from the networks connect to a binding post inside the cabinet that allows for speaker wire to be hooked to the same post externally. You could make what you needed, but I'm sure a local electronics store could help. Chris

I currently have K-33-P's in my La Scalas. Type K-447, black with woofer access on TOP of doghouse. The serial numbers are 1L885 and 1L886, and they have silver pie slice logos. I was told they were built in the 70's. I have read on the forum that the P's are an alnico version, and the E's are an upgrade. What are the differences?

JR- These Shorthorns have '58 Tru-Sonic 15" woofers, approved by Klipsch in '59, but rated for 16 Ohms. The mids are University SA-HF drivers, also rated at 16 Ohms, with K1000 horns. The tweeters are K-77. I didn't see the rated Ohms for the tweeters when last opened. The network is K-1000-5000-W. All components have Klipsch K-Ortho 3-way "stickers". The motor board is slightly wider than the angled cabinet sides. The screws for the grill frame go through the back of the motor board, but are also accessible from outside the cabinet. At the intersection of the sides to the motor board, the sides are notched out in three places. This allows access to the screw head outside of the "sealed" cabinet. The notches are (from the top) at 5", 18", and 31". Hope this helps. If the side grills are installed, remove them and you will know what I mean. If you don't have the notches, you may have to make them yourself. They are 1/2 of a 1/2" round hole and drilled on the angle perpendicular to the motorboard. Hope that's not too confusing. My feet are 2 1/8" wide at the floor, leaving a 21 1/4" wide cutout that is (on mine) 2" tall. The bottom rail with legs is only 6" compared to 6 1/2" from Capt'n Bob. My cabinet is not sealed however. The rear of the cabinet has a slit from top to bottom that is square edged, covered from the inside with wire screening, and 9/16ths of an inch wide. I don't know enough yet about Ohms and DC resistance, but that slot may be the difference between the impedance of woofers mentioned. The slit would also help me believe that Shorthorns were horn-loaded as argued by PWK himself, I'm told. Good luck, Chris This message has been edited by mungkiman on 06-27-2002 at 06:48 PM

JR - Try going to http://www.hifilit.com/hifilit/Klipsch/1957l.jpg you will see dimensions for both Shorthorn styles. The model S was available in kits, and is probably what you have. I have model S Shorthorns and can help with dimensions, but not with components. I agree with Capt'nBob on many things. The hole in the motor board is smaller than the woofer. I have 15" Tru-Sonics, but the factory hole is closer to 10" to "load" the woofer. The motor board is screwed through the front into the top, sides, and bottom of the cabinets. The grill frame is screwed from the back of the motor board into the sides of the grill frame. The grill frame is 25 1/2" wide and 36" tall. The top rail is 2 1/2" tall and mitered to the stiles which taper. The stiles are 2 1/2" wide at the top miter, and 4" wide at the bottom miter. The bottom rail is 4" tall, not including the additional 2" of legs. Good luck with your project. Chris

djk - thanks for the follow up. I downloaded acrobat reader, and greatly enjoyed the Peavey link. I learned a great deal about several horn types, both in theory and practice. Would you, or anyone, be willing to help me with construction "know-how" for a AA network project? I am fascinated with the idea, but don't know where to start other than a pair of E2's. Thanks again, I really appreciate the help and knowledge you (all) have shared. Ed - thanks for the additional info. Clarification helps me understand the specifics. I will ask Al K to share his Altec experience if he is willing.

Gil - Thanks for explaining sectoral horns in a simple concise manner. I understand the horns and theories better, and am intrigued. djk - I was not able to view the file from the link you provided. I have a Mac rather than a PC, and it doesn't recognize pdf files. Thanks just the same. Ed - Thanks for the horn suggestion. Would an 811B also be a good choice, or is the 511B superior? Does anybody know if the K-1000-5000-W networks can be modified to K-500-5000, or if I would be better off using stock AA's? I am looking for different woofers, so the 16 Ohm Tru-Sonics are not a factor for my project. Thanks, Chris