JohnW

Just resurrected mine (link attached). Sounds SHOCKINGLY good. Really curious how yours sounds, because if I can improve on this, I'll be...well, I don't know. I'm already amazed.

Will do, eventually. In the meantime, I have some raw birch La Scalas to stain and recap, maybe even build some AAs. I'll do a thread about the recap when I get it.

If only I had corners.

I believe these were only made 1976-77.

Right after that video I posted, voltage stabilized at .6 to .7--right where it should be. So I wrapped a piece of electrical tape around the resistor (original was insulated) and soldered it in. Still a bit of ozone smell coming out of the unit, but that may just be all the dust that's been knocked loose on it's journey from Arizona to here (But I'll keep it in the garage, with a fire extinguisher nearby, until I feel certain about it. There'a s $99 complete recap kit available on Ebay..but if you think all I need to do is replace the caps on the rectifier boards, that sounds like a lot less to screw up. This thing sounds tremendous! Previously I was using a sub with my RB5s here in the garage, but this really doesn't need it! Thanks again!

Dumb luck, man. Lol. Story of my life:

Dude, you are unbelievably patient. Thanks again.

Just tested voltage on a motorcycle battery. 12.45v.

Check out this item on OfferUp. https://offerup.co/ViBFqhzmEnb

This appears to be the next step. Though I'm not sure which wires to remove.

This is just glue, right?

Never mind, it has continuity with the next solder point on the board. can’t seem to find a single short on Rectifier A.

I’ve ordered a used rectifier A board from EBay…only $30. Can’t hurt. This solder looked cracked? Going to try to add a bit.

No, it's in the parts list. And I just pulled it out. It's fine. Tested perfectly at 47uF.

And while the capacitor seems to be missing from the Rectifier Board A list, the list does include two zener diodes, which I can't seem to find anywhere on the board. But I'm highly inexperienced, so maybe I just don't know what they look like.

Thankfully, no. These are for sure fuse holders. Labeled as such, and on the bottom of the unit.

Here’s a new discovery… every diode, resistor, capacitor on Rectifier A board shows at least some conductance… Except this little guy, which is the next link in line after the R9 resistor. Ok forgive my ignorance, but what is this? The C5 capacitor (which seems to be conveniently missing from the HK parts list)?

And I wouldn’t BEGIN to know how to check B3.

So if I read this right, there wasn't too much current going through the resistor...yet the resistor still cooked? So...too much current?

Thought this might be easier than explaining:

Holy shit, I actually followed that. Resistor in and voltage will be measured in the morning. Note: Original resistor was insulated.

The fuse did not blow. I measured it without the resistor in the circuit. You’re saying I should put the resistor in before I measure?

Ok, multimeter across R9 set for 2 volts reads fluctuations from -.02v to +.02v should it be fluctuating, or hold steady?