Fala7er
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Posts posted by Fala7er
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UPDATE: Well after a while i took my chances with an isolator transformer 500VA (in my case) 220v to 220v and the ground loop is finally gone for good.
On another note, using the ground loop isolator absolutly kills the quality on the audio, tested with/without and oh boy... better to have a bulky transformer somewhere than using that thing.
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The amp couldn't be fixed anywhere. I got in contact with an importer to order a new amp from klipschs it cost me around $250 (import costs included). I can say testing both amps, the one with the problem sound a lot worse in terms of audio quality. The bass is now more accurate, better punches and louder too, both with the same settings.
Anyone with problems, probably forget about fixing this thing if you are on the US or Europe the replacement is the best option.
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Im using the stabilization input on the UPS, but still this is using a lot less than 300w from the wall, maybe someone has the real numbers.
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Hi, im using a UPS 850VA for my pc, monitor and a set of 5 speakers to get the benefits of stabilization and the battery in case the lights goes out and it can last for about 3 minutes with everything working no problems.
Now the subwoofer R112SW says on the specification 300w - 600w (dynamic), and in backplate (power cord place) "220-240v - 50/60hz, 4A" which should be 4A x 220 = 880VA.
I tried using the sub also in the UPS and the same day the lights went out and i was listening music, and also lasted for about 2-3 minutes the UPS powering all this system.
Im using the sub at 1/3 volume -forever- and regulate the signal input only to get more or less output volume. Im ok using this UPS with the sub? it seems to work fine but... the power consumption may be a lot lower than i imagine?.
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Thanks a lot for the help, isolator for me then or get a kick being barefoot hahah.
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On 5/31/2018 at 12:19 AM, babadono said:
Higher voltage caps are fine. Lower voltage no. The outside of those can type caps are covered with an insulator so them touching should be no problem. Curious are the ones you're replacing 85 or 105 degrees C rated? If they're 105 make sure your replacements are also.
Everything that has the degrees on the label says 105, except the one alone on the left side of the board looks different from the rest, other brand and shiny new, i asume is not the orignal but the fixed part and is rated 85.. im going to try getting all 105.
Update: replaced all capacitors and resistors, the first time i turn it ON i heard the rumbling veeery quiet for 10 seconds and then went way, is kinda a success. No idea what else to try or if this is my new normal behaviour. Been running fine for 2hs now and maybe the quality of the bass improved? must be placebo or the days of not using the unit 🤣 I think now is the waiting time for klipsch to say something. Thanks for the help.
Also... a pic of the fight removing the melted thing.. the other one also had a little pcb stuck with it, the yellow shit make removal REALLY difficult.
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1 hour ago, babadono said:
Have you found a schematic on line for this model?
Nothing yet, i found the model 12SW but the components are not the same. For now im thinking of changing all the capacitors, but getting the same V is difficult and i don't know if getting some or almost all the caps with higher V will affect in a negative way the sound or health of the subwoofer.
And also, the bigger V capacitors are a bit bigger in size and will touch each other for sure.. the big one of 1000uf 80v i got one 1000uf 100v and replacing both will make them touch each other.
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First of all, good day to you! and please can you give me a hand?. Join my journy with this subwoofer (not native language, sorry for any mistake):
Right after the warranty ended this subwoofer started to fail, first it started making a noise when turned ON, like a grounding or false contact for a few seconds and then it was silent and working fine but at random moments started to do the same sometimes i had to turn it off because it started to do it loud (always jumping from quiet to loud at random, the noise not the audio, i found it on youtube with the word "rattling sound" but no pops or anything else) after a few weeks this got worse and one day after turning on the Sub it went Off seconds later, the only way to turn it back ON was disconnecting the power cord and plug it in again.
I took the subwoofer to fix on the same place i bought it, they fixed and told me it was the power supply and 8 months later (since last week) im having similar issues but not that bad, this time it does this noise when i turn it ON after being Off a few hours and just for a few seconds and never again.
Since they told me it was the power supply and the place is 2hs away from my home (the fix was expensive too)... i decided to open the damn thing myself and check for a bad capacitor or something since i know how to replace components and since is doing something similar from last time (before the fix) i figure the solution could be the same, well i took a look at the board and i couldn't find anything looking bad (only yellow stuff I believe is glue that came from factory and some brown stuff from the same thing, the heat turned the yellow to brown?), so i decided check on the back of the board soldering marks and replace some of the same components to test and also clean the pcb from the flux they have used.
Looking the components i saw only two capacitors that looked like discolored (from heat maybe?) and decided to replace this two only to test, results:
Both 22uf 50v were replaced with 22uf 63v
Then powered the Sub and voila! the quiet to loud random noise stopped but still does some low noise went i turn it ON from a few hours of having the Sub unplugged (check the video):
Now the sound level remains low and last just a few seconds (10-20) and remain on the same sound level, it doesn't go from quiet to very loud at random so i assume im on the right track. After this wall of text (sorry) can you give a hand and tell me which component could be causing this or if i could fix it myself just replacing capacitors? if yes is ok to use capacitor with a little higher V but same uF? Is hard to get the exact same.Already contacted klipsch support but it said 7 days... maybe someone here got the same problem and found a way to fix it?.
Here some pics.
http://imgbox.com/g/sBh24N9I1y
EDIT: I found a picture for what it seems a leaked capacitor but is just the yellow glue burned brown i think, this is a pic from a R115SW model.
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8 minutes ago, babadono said:
CIC
Sorry but i couln't find the meaning of that, what does it mean?. And yeah.. i will stick to the isolator for now.
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13 minutes ago, babadono said:
I just looked at the back of a R112SW. The power cord has no Ground? Is this true or is it an old picture and Klipsch has since modified? So how can this be a ground loop? Sounds more like CIC. Just get a good quality isolator and fughetaboutdit.
It doesn't have the 3rd pin. When i ground the PC i also need to ground the sub. (using a screw on the back) for the -ground isolator- to work, otherwise it wont work, why this happens.. no idea.
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2 minutes ago, babadono said:
If you want the best quality isolator that money can buy it's simple: Go to Jensen Transformer and get an ISO MAX.
No Affiliation, other than I know their stuff is good.
I will have to import that device to my country, there's nothing similar to buy here, for now a Transformer Isolator (220v) seems to be the only choice.
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Just now, nitrofan said:
Sorry I may have misunderstood your setup. Only using pc as source?
Only source is PC, and everything was tested without any other device connected (power cord unplugged). Using the ground loop isolator is my only choice if i want to have everything grounded. I will need to test the bass quality with and without it, uhg.. slow and painful.
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19 hours ago, babadono said:
When running off batteries there is no 60 Hz, so no hum. The underlying problem MAY still be present but we can't hear DC
After many tests:
a) Sub only with power cord = Silence.b) Sub with one RCA connected (and the other parts of the cables not connected to anything) = A very low hum can be heard, some lower quality rca cables makes this sound louder.
c) Sub with PC connected with RCA = same as b)
d) Sub with PC (grounded) connected with RCA = loud hum
e) Sub (grounded using the chassis screw) with PC (grounded) + ground loop isolator = silence
e) Looks like the perfect solution but im searching about the quality degradation using one of this isolators. I have this one that i bough some time ago:
BOSS B-25N
c) Works fine and i can barely hear the hum having the sub close to me and no need of isolator, BUT everything is not grounded, since the Xonar only use RCA connectors as soon as i ground anything we have a Hum.
I'm also searching for a transformer isolator to run everything grounded without problems, but is an expensive solution. Any advice?.
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Oh im dealing with this... using the R112SW connected to a PC with a Xonar audio card using a 5.1 configuration, if i ground the PC then i get the Hum, but if i ground the PC and connect the Sub. on my UPS running with batteries only it works fine. WHY!?. Everything else run fine if grounded.
Power Consumption R112SW
in Subwoofers
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Better yet, tested in time with some movies at full blast and no problems. It seems 850va is enough for everything.