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MisterVego

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Everything posted by MisterVego

  1. Mike, Just finally stumbled upon this post! WOW, those speakers are really beautiful, congrats! Erik
  2. Roy and I have been working on some things... Stay tuned..
  3. Just a TIP.... If you can permanently plug your Xilica into your home router, you can wirelessly connect to it from your laptop. Only thing you need to do is assign it an IP address. Not having to be tethered to a USB cable is so nice...
  4. I'm looking forward to loading the latest revision then walking though the steps again to see the effect on each change. Once i get this other issue straightened out, I'll be all over it... -e
  5. Swap was done last week..... Bonehead reached out personally and we are checking some things... Stay tuned...
  6. This is the first subwoofer I've owned in about 20 years....
  7. Thanks @Khornukopia I have not. "tucking" this sub anywhere is not really an easy thing to do.... But it is one of the things i'm going to be testing PRIOR to completely filipping the room around so the speakers and the subs are on the same wall and so i can get atleast 14' away from the sub.. I am still have my doubts since its current placement is considered 1/4 placement and Roy has mentioned it should be digging deeper. What i'm confused with is if the sub is "supposed" to have a lower frequency response shouldn't that be seen with a sweep when the mic is at the mouth of the horn? When i did a sweep, at the horn mouth, still 30hz fall off...
  8. @mikebse2a3 So last night i DID remove the slight 32hz peq boost on the Jubes. I also applied a high pass on the Jubes at the xover frequency. The end result eliminated the sharp dip at 40hz. I would assume the previous dip was due to the colliding tones from the sub and the jubes. BUT..... Regardless.... I have a hard drop at 30hz.... I am still under the assumption that either my room is tuned to that frequency and things drop off steeply at 30hz at my listening position... OR.... I need to get further away from the Sub allowing it to fully develop.
  9. @Khornukopia Have got some 8" cornertraps on the same end as the sub. These traps also contain a surface membrane to reflect HF waves.... I've heard the insulation bale trick works too.... However, I'm still skeptical that trapping is going to help in this situation. From what i read to tame frequencies below 40hz require HUGE traps....
  10. But what i'm really confused with is how can some people with smaller rooms, smaller subs get room responses down into the teens.. I must be missing something..... ( I would like to stress, i am NOT looking for a response in the teens)
  11. I'm picking up what your throwing down...... I'm at the limits of what my room can actually produce. My seating position just happens to be at a low point and once I get further to that 1/4 wavelenth point I can start to get more gain at that frequency. Long short of things... Sub is working correctly, needs MUCH MORE space to really come alive and to get down to that freq range naturally I need to be sitting towards the back of the room with the sub facing me.....
  12. Mike, I will try doing both of your suggestions. It'll be interesting to see what changes. However. With my recent tests. I have not been activating the Jubes. The sweeps and test have been with the sub only. From what Chris mentioned in Adams thread, it seems as if my room has a transition frequency of 29hz.... This is seems to coincide with the 30hz drop i'm seeing in the raw data @ listening position. When running the sweep (sub only) 4m/13'' from the face of the sub, that dip from 30hz moved down to the low to mid 20hz region. Is this essentially what people describe as room gain?
  13. I would say no since there are no reflections for the sound waves to bounce back creating a null? Mike, as you know I am still learning the fundamentals when it comes to this stuff... I guess what i'm finding is that it is my room causing the sub from producing its full potential? Seems like this room is limited by a natural 30hz freq.... maybe a little more with boosting and then a little more due to room gain once i get around 4m from the speaker? Mind you, i am not complaining or trying to get into the single digit / teens with a response, I am just trying to understand whats going on here and calm some of my OCD thinking i'm doing something wrong. -e
  14. My Room is 19'6" L x 14' W x 9'H
  15. I've been doing some testing the last couple of nights. It seems as if you need to be at least 4m away from the subwoofer to get a respond in the 20's with out any PEQ boosting. While you can get a flat response down to 20hz at my listening position ( about 60" in front of the sub. Sub is behind me) A significant amount of boosting and attenuation is needed. When doing this the result is less overall SPL.... So horn loaded vented subs need a significant amount of volume / distance for them to fully open up?
  16. Thanks to these forums Adam and I have become very good friends and we both have very similar setups: Jubes & 1802/1502. After several weeks of chatting with Adam, sharing response curves and ideas, I'm starting to see a pattern. (some of you have seen the post I created with questions/concerns about the response of my 1502 sub.) The two subs seem to be VERY similar in response.. This has been mentioned before by Roy, i think he has mentioned that the 1502 is identical except 3db down. What i'm finding is that taking measurements at the sub mouth or somewhat nearfield ( my listening position is about 60" infront of the sub. Sub is behind me like Mike Beasley has his) The sub naturally rolls off right around 30hz. With some PEQ manipulation I CAN get a flat response down to 20hz but with sacrificing SPL. Should subs like these create a lower response at the horn mouth? Last night i did some more testing and when running sweeps of the natural response of the sub ( no peqs) the response did extend further down to the 20hz point once i was around 4m from the face of the sub. When Roy mentions the 1802 will achieve mid teens in a Auditorium without boost. Is this a direct result of needing a room with enough volume to allow the sub to fully bloom those lower octaves while achieving the published SPLs? If this is the case, it almost seems as if at 4m/13' distance from the sub face is the sweet spot to get down into the 20s.
  17. @mark1101 not going to disagree with you however, just trying to have it a little smoother down to 20hz. Its pretty impressive how the sub flexes the walls in my dedicated room which build with double layered 5/8" drywall..
  18. @babadono Not trying to dig deeper than designed. Just trying to get a flatter respond down to 20hz. I don't think I'm being greedy since i have been told that the sub is capable of a sub 20hz response.. As @AHall has mentioned we are friends and have been discussing the issues i am having. His 1802 is capable of digging down to 20hz before his port mod. I am not interested in modifying my sub in any way. Just trying to determine if this is a PEQ issue or if its a modal issue in my room. Since the 1502 is a rare beast and the 1802 is only in a few residential environments I'm optimistic that the help of the experts in this forum can help me resolve the issue.
  19. Are you sure about that? Quote from Mr. Bonehead himself when doing research on this sub... : "If you have room for them, the 1502 will take you below 20 hz and will match the clean bass of the jub lf. I think the 1502 will shock you."
  20. @mikebse2a3 & @dtel i would have to agree to, however I have been using frequency sweeps from 0-20khz to take my measurements not music. Is this okay to do?
  21. Chris, I'll try playing with the delay again. I set my current delay by playing a 50hz ( my xover freq) tone and separately matched levels of the jubes and the sub. I then reversed polarity of the sub and then played both the jubes and subs together increasing delay until the overall SPL was the lowest. Once done a changed the subpolarity back to normal. Perhaps there is a better way to adjust this?
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