Jump to content
The Klipsch Audio Community


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

1 Follower

About Triodes4ever

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. @Tom, need to start somewhere and the K510 is at the moment the "unknow" which I think I need to eliminate and see I get it right as a basis. Later I might again try it once I have a known situation. I did talk to Bob about his cross over experiences with the compensation for the HF drop using a CD horn like the K510 but that appeared to be not a simple path, think Bob abandoned it. Going active I don't see as an option so I need to get it right using a passive xover. @Glens: yes they do have mumps but I don't yet intend to sell them. Suppose I go 3-way after all they would make great mid-horns I suppose..
  2. Guys thanks for all feedback and suggestions. I have decided to ditch the K-510 horn, modify the Faital HF20 driver to become a HF14 with 1.4 inch throat and mount a Faital horn (elliptic tractrix they call it) and try that. Unfortunately it ruins my baffe (or "motor board" as some here refer to) since the holes do not match. I have seen graphs (source Bob) with this horn, driver and CS500 xover showing an almost perfect response. This combination is proven in the Cornscala D, and most people on this forum seem to be very happy with that. The K-510 seems to introduce too many "unknowns" I'd be happy to eliminate so to say. A bit ironic is that I decided to build the CornScala BECAUSE I got my hands on a pair of K-510s and as it looks, the speakers will live without them... Once they sound right, they will be positioned against my JBL4430s, which is almost the same concept and sounding really very well. See what's best for my taste. Cheers y'all! Leonard
  3. Tom thanks for the response. And no, the xovers do not provide compensation for that. Is this drop off only for CD horns and not for other shapes? Faital has an "elliptic tractrix" is such behaving different then with no drop off? Done a lot with vintage Tannoy in the past they always had serial resistors paralleled with a cap to compensate the drop off. The Faital horn doesn't seem to require that as I heard..but doesn't mount on my 2" throat.. Thanks leonard
  4. Good day all! I decided to revive this thread after a good year with the CornScala "D" and like to see if there is some feedback on my experiences sofar. Bottom line: I can't get them right. I have had pristine cabinets built in Russian Birch, Bob's woofer, and the Klipsch K-510 horn (mumps version) driven by a Faital HF20AT. Crites CS-500 Xovers. Sounds like ingredients for a very nice meal, but the taste is not so great. In the beginning they were very "stiff" and had a great lack in musicality. Advised by Bob I took all damping out. I had damped them based on intuition but it might have been too much. After that they were a bit more alive but still.. I noticed female voices to be very "nasal" and unpleasant, and the top end way too relaxed (i.e. missing, no sizzle). Did some sweeps with one of the room acoustics analyzers (bought a calibrated USB mike) to see if there would be an obvious cause for the nasal mids. Couldn't really find anything in the 500Hz area where the Xover is aligned for. Now the combi HF20 with the K-510 horn is a bit of a variable. Haven't seen anyone do that so far. I mean the CornScala D is received very well, albeit with a different driver/horn combination (and possible Xover, I had ALK in mind but just the experiment would become very expensive) So what can I do? Ditch the K-510 and get another horn (like the Faital they offer for 1.4" drivers in which case I would need to adapt the 2" HF20) OR stick with the K-510 horn and mount another 2" driver like B&K, Klipsch, what have you. Issue is also the K-510 is flush mounted in my cabs and changing the horn will become a demolition job effectively from a cosmetic viewpoint. See if there's some experience here with the K-510.. Thanks Leonard
  5. Good to see my thinking is in line with your experiences. There are commercial designs based on thin cabinets with no damping like the AudioNote /E. But these are quite special and not anyone's choice. @HPower, if I would live close by: yours seem like a bargain! There are not too many Klipsch fans here in my geo, so I have not a lot to fall back to. I have contact with Al Klappenberger as well who seem to have a lot of knowledge on the required cross overs. I already have Bob's but let's see how this evolves. Do you have any drawings with the thicker plywood incorporated? The only drawings I have are the ones from Bob's site: CornScala Type D. But these only provide outer dimensions (in inches vs. metric ) I need to make decisions on how to get the cabinets built, so all info welcome! Btw Toronto, been there, seen it, and remember CN tower very well !
  6. Hi there, I am new to this forum. I have been lurking for quite a while, looked at a pair of LaScala's, came to the conclusion they are just too massive, and then decided to build a set of CornScala's - Type D. Managed to get K-510 horns, a set of Faital HF200 plus Bob's CS-500 cross-overs, ordered Bob's woofers: set to go! But now the cabinets, I am wondering what the experiences are. Need to build them from scratch, have no Cornwalls I can convert. So the standard receipe seems to be 18mm plywood as I understand. I can have Russian Birch, the nicest. The cabinets are quite large, one would think a thicker plywood, bracing and damping (bitume/wool/pritex) would be required to prevent the panels living their own lives (panel resonance) I have built speakers in the past, large transmission lines as well, the adagium being "It can't go wrong if built big and strong" but would that apply here as well? Seems to me such big, relatively thin and un-damped cabinet would add a lot of colour. There are not too many commercial designs built that way. Another question would be the construction itself. I would instinctively bind/glue the baffle (think you guys call it "motorboard") onto the side walls, and have the back panel removable in order to get to the components inside. Is this the way it's typically done here as well? Thanks Leonard (Netherlands)
  • Create New...