Drugolf
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Posts posted by Drugolf
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Hey! Just a dumb question. My woofers are are 4 ohm. tweeters 8 ohm and mids 16ohm. Any adjustments needed to the AA to account for this? Or is this the standard configuration for the AA?
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So are the notches on the bottom just to account for base boards moldings? If so, you could just do whatever makes sense for your application with some thought for versatility I guess.
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On 12/16/2019 at 11:46 AM, Deang said:
Dude, you can buy better ones for $5.
Yeah, yeah yeah, I know.
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Just looking for one little inductor......
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1 hour ago, Deang said:
Looking good.
Just use some silicone adhesive to hold the coil down.
That's going to sound very good (you'll hear what I tell you to hear
Shall do on the silicone. Now to find one more of those.
I'm looking forward to it for sure. Unfortunately I didn't have a before listen.
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I have one and need another if anybody has an extra.
Thanks!
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4 minutes ago, Deang said:
I don't have the coils anymore. You can buy new ones from Bob and he would probably just give you the wire you need. Sorry!
or buy a pair of these and I'll send you the wire.
https://www.parts-express.com/jantzen-audio-025mh-20-awg-air-core-inductor-crossover-coil--255-026
Okay, thanks.
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4 hours ago, Deang said:
Let me check my workroom when I get home tonight. I might have some of the original coils too. If I do, I can ship to you with some wire. Just cover the shipping.
You are a gentleman.
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2 hours ago, Deang said:
While it's true the new tweeter is more robust and can easily handle being run first order, many of us who have spent a lot time going back forth, eventually decide that less overlap between the midrange and tweeter sounds better.
I'm on it! Ordered the 2 additional Arizona's last night. Just need the inductors. I know I have one of the original klipsch AA coils.....
Hey Deang, I was going to order some of the bus wire from Jameco but I really dont need that much and it would be cool to avoid the wait and shipping cost. Off the top of your head what would be an easy otherwise option for the small amount i need.?
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20 hours ago, JohnA said:
The blend of squawker to tweeter is better with a Type AA. The tweeter carries less midrange with a Type AA so there should be less measurable distortion.
Okay, so I can go ahead and add a 2nd 2.2 Arizona and the coil back in easily enough. I am assuming that is all I need to do. ? Just gotta source em.
I actually pulled some recapped AA crossovers from LaScalas to do my initial test on the K horns.
9 hours ago, Deang said:Thanks John, I meant to come back in and clarify and forgot.
Imaging is better too.
In all my reading of related searches on this I thought I had mostly seen it recommended that once the tweeter was upgraded to the Crites tweeter, the belief was the A version would be all that was needed. I guess that was only based on the protection circuit aspect of the AA.
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I have all the parts and am about to put together these Type A's. Does anyone care to share a photo or twp of their Type A builds so I can see how others have laid these out?
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This supplier has some nice offering. I just finished a rebuild of some Speakerlab KHorns using a white oak from him.
As a professional designer, I'll suggest that it is really easy to go to far with something on a piece this big so be careful with that.
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Goodness, why did I click on this thread? 😖😉
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On 7/29/2019 at 4:23 AM, Enzyme said:
Woow, this looks great! May I ask how you did the cut-outs? I'm currently planning on building a set myself. Have redrawn the entire k-horn plans in CAD to EU plywood standards (12mm and 16mm). I'm now contemplating on either letting a CNC router do all the work (I have all the individual pieces drawn out into CAD already, so should be easy to convert to a milling job) or let a professional sawing service do the job (I know they will deliver, but it's much more expensive). Any thoughts?
OP, if you need help understanding the plans; send me a PM. I also have some plans/builds saved myself.
CNC. Got the Crites tweeter cut-out dimensions from Crites. The face of the horn and tweeter baffle was veneered since it will be covered.
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6 hours ago, eq_shadimar said:
Ok a couple of answers. The cabinet size is the exact same size as a standard Hersey. The motorboard is also exactly the same layout as all other Hersey II's of the same era (minus the ports of course) and the same as the newly released Hersey III's as well. I should be able to take the measurements on the tubes that you want and check the crossover but cannot promise when that will happen. Maybe this weekend.
Laters,
Jeff
Nah, don't worry about it. The only thing I feel I need to do with these would be to recap and then make sure these ports are not totally screwing them up. I will simply so the recap and then see how they sound.
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11 minutes ago, Marvel said:
It looks a lot bigger due to the front mounting of all the drivers/horns.
Yeah, I realized that after posting that. Makes it easier to remove and replace the pieces I guess as needed.
Reading that this is more of a KP-250 solution rather than an HIP.
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Found this photo on another post about the HIP showing it's own crossover labeled HIP.
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20 hours ago, eq_shadimar said:
Interesting. Can you do me a favor and measure the diameter of those ports and length of the tubes? Also, is that cabinet the same dimension as a non-industrial heresy? Do you know if it still uses a Type E-2 crossover? It appears the horns and woofer are much closer configured and thus the motor board is lot smaller.....or that woofer is larger.
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I am working on a set of Heresy's for a friend with a recap to start with, but it appears someone changed out the baffle at some point and added a couple round ports that flank the tweeter up top. Any thoughts on what the net is on this move?
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Type A Rebuild Input Needed
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
Right?
As I did above all I want to know is since the tweeters are 8 ohm, mids 16 and the woofer 4 ohm, is there any issue with the crossover as I've built it?
And maybe some idea on why these all are different if this is by design on various KHorn models.