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larryk

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About larryk

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Denver CO
  • My System
    Cornwall 1’swith the following modifications:

    New Deang type B crossover with Jupiter caps
    Rewired with 14ga Western Electric vintage tinned copper wire
    Cardas Copper binding posts
    A55G midrange driver
    DE120 and with DaveA's Walnut horn - physically time aligned on top of cabinet
    18" brace between woofer and midhorn screwed to back of motorboard
    rubber stripping to seal back cabinet

    Border patrol P21 push pull 300b amp
    Thoress full function preamp with phono stage
    Galibier turntable with Kuzma 9” 4pt arm and Ortofon a90 cartridge
    Exasound e32 DAC with Exasound Playpoint streamer/server

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  1. I have been physically time aligning my Cornwall with Dave’s original walnut tweeter horn and a homemade baffle. I agree with other comments. Once you hear the tweeter physically aligned with the midrange you would not want to go back. The mid point of my tweeter is 5” from the top of the cabinet. It is important to absorb reflections off the top of the cabinet. I bought a 12 x12 absorption panel from guitar center and cut in half to place in front of the tweeter to absorb the reflections. I also needed to add some weight to the baffle to get the best sound. Possibly this new tweeter horn would have enough weight to not have to do this but adding some weight to the top of this would be easy.
  2. Not sure how that would work. If you glue one end of a 2x4 i would think the weight would not support it until you got the rear panel in place to secure with screws. Maybe i am not thinking this right. I have also heard that others have added a 3/4” panel to the back of the existing panel to keep the back panel from flexing. Am curious what results that may bring.
  3. Last weekend I decided to try bracing the motorboard on my Cornwall 1. I had seen an old post regarding this. I put an 18" 3/4 X 1 3/4 piece of oak half way between the mid horn and the woofer and secured with 5 screws. This rather simple bracing made a huge difference eliminating any of the boominess I had as well as improving the midrange clarity. I was concerned about taking up cabinet volume but this takes up very little. Have many others tried this?
  4. I heard the new Cornwall lV’s at RMAF today. I was somewhat skeptical going in but I must say they sound fantastic. Really great midrange resolution and very tight controlled bass. I have modded my Cornwall 1’s and they are sounding really good to me but the new cornwalls are definitely a step up.
  5. The input tubes are 6J4. I do think this is a variation of his Darling circuit. The 3-4 watts is probably right. I would do ups ground shipping for $25.
  6. Thanks but not interested in a trade. Just need to move out some of my stuff.
  7. I picked this up a few years ago as a backup amp. I have used this amp with my Cornwalls and it really sounds good with surprising control of the bass for such a small amp. This is one of Jeff Larson's earlier builds .The guy I bought it from had for around 15 years. The output tube is a rather uncommon 1626 tube. They are readily available on ebay etc and are not expensive. It will come with a new set I recently installed. I believe that the amp puts out 4-5 watts and is a great fit for Klipsch speakers. It does have a volume control so can be used with one source without a preamp. Price is $275 plus shipping cost.
  8. I replaced the k55v (not dual phase plug) with the A55G in my Cornwall and IMHO was a significant improvement at a relatively modest price. I hear much more resolution and less distortion than with the k55v. Matching that up with the DE120 tweeter in my opinion really takes this sound to a new level.
  9. Dave Brubeck Time Out, Chet Atkins in Hollywood, Dire Straits Brothers in Arms, Kenny Burrell Midnight Blue
  10. I used some 3/8" rubber window seal from Home Depot to seal the backs of my Cornwalls. Only costs and there was a definite improvement in sound after installing.
  11. I use Herbies audio labs big fat dots which I place four under the risers of my Cornwalls. Two in the front and two in the back. They are 1/4” high and isolate the speaker from the floor and they keep the speaker stable. These work really well for me and are not very expensive.
  12. I also use the vinyl stack and a Vibrato ultrasonic cleaner. It does better than the hand cleaning or VPI vacuum machine which I have owned. It is ideal if you have a lot of records to clean. You can clean 3 records at a time in about 6 minutes. If you have 500 or more records this is a big deal. If you have a smaller collection like under a 100 it may not be worth the investment.
  13. I replaced the k55v’s in my Cornwalls with the a55g’s and hear the same things that you are hearing. It’s a major improvement for me. I do not detect any real change in efficiency . I agree this is an easy to justify upgrade.
  14. Schu brought up a good point. I have addressed the bounce off of the top of the speaker but had not compared different heights. I decided to take my current crude stand and insert cd cases underneath to test at various heights. Down from around 4 “ up to 6 “ from top of speaker to middle of tweeter horn. The highest setting thinned out the sound and seemed to call more attention to the tweeter. I tried different heights in 3/8” increments and settled on 5”. To me on my Cornwall that seemed to have the best balanced sound. Of course this is subjective based on listening preferences. Based on my test I would be good at a centered horn height from 4 3/4 to 5”. If one wants to increase height more footers could be placed underneath to increase the height. It would be interesting if someone else may be able to try this and compare results.
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