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iaRIVR

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Everything posted by iaRIVR

  1. Anytime someone says to respond to an email in a system that has built in messaging is a huge red flag for me. On another note, while it may be impossible to make a minivan cool putting some KLF 30s in one might get you close...
  2. iaRIVR

    KP320 - $275 MN

    Is that a good deal? I have no idea on the professional line. The two K-48-K's are close to that....
  3. iaRIVR

    KP320 - $275 MN

    https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/ele/d/rockford-klipsch-kp320-professional/7202925698.html Can't put a pic up on my phone but look stock.
  4. I'd say max 400, but closer to 300 would be great. I keep doing one of those 'well for only xx more you get xx.' For something really cool... maybe a little more? There is an Arcam A19 on usaudiomart for $529 that is tempting.
  5. Did you see that was shipped price? I assumed that was just local. I do love Milwaukee but that's a hike. I'd have to stop at @314carpenter to see a real setup on the way 😝
  6. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rotel-AM-FM-Stereo-Receiver-Amplifier-Model-RX-1050-2-Channel/174449218336?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D03265cd8385448ddac25ce75278000a9%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D254709725420%26itm%3D174449218336%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057%26brand%3DRotel&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A0e7882c5-fea1-11ea-a23d-6a5fefae00b3|parentrq%3Ac1b6f61f1740a4e86bff46a6fffc34f8|iid%3A1 This one too, an RX-1050 for 219. Would much rather buy from a member or in person, little wary of ebay shipping but I know it's done all the time. Missing a jumper.
  7. I would take one of those, seem pretty solid. There was one locally for $250 I missed. Should have pulled the trigger!
  8. Haha maybe 😁 . A&B selection is pretty important, able to use it as a premp would be great but not necessary.
  9. I'm open on the watts, I had 100 as a ballpark to keep the cost realistic. I think I'm at 24 now with the 430... Would love to go separates, but I don't have an amp so of course buying both also increases cost. Long term I plan to go that route, so my thought was an integrated with a preout I could use with an amp in the future, and eventually replace with a dedicated preamp. Thanks for the amp suggestions, I will keep an eye out for those. I am collecting parts to build a Aleph J clone this winter, so waiting and getting a preamp for that is another option. I just don't want to feel rushed to get that done or I'll probably mess it up. There's an RX-1052 on CL I asked about, seems solid and has some features that might be nice.
  10. Looking for a solid integrated on the lower end of the price spectrum. Very interested to try Rotel but open to suggestions. It will be driving a pair of Chorus IIs and a set of full-range speakers (FHXL), so doesn't need to be crazy but I hear the Chorus like a little power. I have an HK430 now and have had a run of bad luck with the last couple of amps I have tried, so ideally something solid and simple (probably not vintage). Open to other brands as well, I was interested in Rotel as an example of a brand that has a reputation for good value and I sound I would like to try. Would really prefer something with A&B speaker selection so I can switch between the two sets, and a pre-out and phono would be fantastic but not required.
  11. Thanks @4JaxJags, I read through that thread and nice work! Leaning towards one brace above the woofer and two on the sides. It's a beast of a cabinet. Here's the current progress with sapele veneer installed, I needed to get them glued before it turns cold so they are not trimmed up yet.
  12. I had a project debut carbon that was $400. I regret selling it. Gets great reviews, dead simple, and felt surprisingly nice. I went to a TD160 which I love, but man have I spent so many hours tweaking that thing. You can find better value in vintage gear, but if you have one thing go wrong that needs repairs you are likely to spend a lot more than you expected and feel frustrated. Plus, a 100% functional 'budget' table is probably better than a 90% functional vintage table. More or less. They also make an esprit model with a speed selector and acrylic platter that are nice upgrades. That's a pretty decent setup. Add a 2M blue stylus if you're feeling crazy.
  13. Is is much harder to find and way more $$$. Really nice stuff though. Anyway, I am planning to run the foam about 2/3 of the way down both sides and call it good unless anyone thinks that is a terrible idea.
  14. I'm almost positive the plywood in my chorus is not Baltic birch, not nearly enough layers. I build with both and the difference is easy to spot. The numbers were just a quick and dirty comparison to get a sense of the relative difference.
  15. Interesting question, I would assume labor is by far the highest component in the cost of the speaker. Did a quick home depot check: Particle board - 20 MDF 26 Plywood 40 Does make me curious how much they pinched pennies on materials and components, as I wouldn't think they are high enough volume to see huge gains. Guessing they tested mdf, plywood, and a dozen other things and found making the front 1" plywood was necessary, and mdf was good enough for the rest.
  16. Cool, and yup need to get old cork residue cleaned off and there are few chipped screw holes that need attention.
  17. Restoring a pair of Chorus IIs and have a couple questions before I get too far. The first one I really don't know, the rest are subjective. 1) Where did the foam go when it left the factory? I thought the consensus for the Forte II was above the woofer (top 2/3 or so). There's foam in there now but a mix of two types, one goes about to the midway point on the woofers, on the other one side goes all the way down on one side and stops above the woofer on the other. Where should the foam go? or does it matter that much? And... subjective ones. These have all been covered before so not expecting answers but if you have thoughts either way please share.Trying to balance doing as much now while I have them apart without going crazy, they sound pretty great as is and no reason to mess with a good thing. 2) Bracing. Considering one between the woofer and the mid, and maybe two up the sides. Straight across, baltic birch ply or solid maple. Seems most say not necessary. 3) Damping. I have a bunch of Kilmat 80 mil. Could line cabinet sides under the foam, or horns and woofer/passive. Also seems not necessary. But I have it already. 4) LMAHL tweeter - very on the fence about doing this now while it will be easy to install, or spending some time with the stock tweeter (w/ crites ti) first. Leaning towards less, but again don't really want to feel the need to take these apart again.
  18. No looking for phenolic. Crites has never (almost positive) had a Ti midrange as he told me not to bother with it. This? https://www.simplyspeakers.com/klipsch-replacement-speaker-diaphragm-127120.html
  19. Started at $500 I think and keeps going down, surprised these are still here. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2392463884389863 https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/ele/d/minneapolis-klipsch-forte-1-speakers/7194146656.html
  20. I would have saved $425+ shipping and just gotten some KG4s: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Klipsch-KG4-Vintage-Pair-Of-HiFi-Speakers-/184383063292?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10 $1000 BIN...
  21. As I note I did not use a pre-stain conditioner on a pair of baltic birch speakers and it came out too blotchy. I had it, and used it in testing, but my sample looked great without so I decided to skip. Unfortunately the sides came out fine, but the front looks awful. Would highly recommend a pre-stain, I don't think it can hurt and would have saved me having to refinish them.
  22. Thanks Randy - still available.
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