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Posts posted by CoryGillmore

  1. 3 hours ago, garyrc said:


    Something is definitely wrong.


    Check your Denon manual.  There are two ways to set up your Main Volume Control.  You want it set up to film industry standards so a very high volume is about 0 dB and a low volume is a negative number, like about - 70 dB.  Under those circumstances, Audyssey would set the Sound Pressure Level (the correct term for "volume" or "loudness") to Reference Level when the Main Volume Control is at 0 dB.  This is outrageously loud on loud passages.  It, after running Audyssey, will give you the same SPL in dB at the Main Listening Position (which should be at microphone position #1), with your  speakers, in your room, at your as the mixers heard when doing the sound for the movie.  This is possible because movies, unlike music, are mastered to be at a known and standard SPL level.  This should provide instantaneous peaks (milliseconds long) up to full scale for main channels of 105 dB, and 115 dB for the subwoofer channel.  THX has looked into perceptual or psychological loudness (and "loudness" is a perceptual/psychological term, rather than a physical one), and determined that someone with a Large home theater or listening room will perceive - 5 dB MV, rather than 0 dB, as the same level as Reference level in the center of a THX commercial movie theater, due to the smaller room's earlier reflections (perceived as the original sound rather than reverb) and pressure waves.  In your smallish room at 5 feet, I'd think, maybe, -8 dB would "sound like" Reference level.  Many people listen at -10 to -15 dB. 


    I've never heard of Audyssey setting the volume too low, when the Main Volume Control is set up as above.  Many of us do add a subwoofer boost of 3 to 8, or so, dB, because, we became used to a few anomalous bass peaks before Audyssey.   Several researchers (Harmon inc. and several others) found that most people prefer low bass being elevated as much as 9 dB over the highest treble.  So, Audyssey smooths out the kinks and zigzags and you set the overall, smoothed, bass to taste.  Don't turn the bass up with the AVR's subwoofer trim control.  The cheap line drivers in many AVRs' subwoofer output circuits clip easily.  Keep that trim level below about -5.  Use the gain control on the subwoofer itself to turn up the bass.


    Once you get your SPL problem solved, put your feet up and read both of the following -- they are leagues better than almost any manual, and unlike most manuals, they have been scrutinized and revised. "Audyssey FAQ Linked Here"  
    Guide to Subwoofer Calibration and Bass Preferences 


    I tried to confirm that the Denon AVRX4400H is powerful enough (which it almost certainly is) but the website won't let me see the specs.  When you get past all the advertising blather, the power figure that counts is "Continuous Power per channel in watts, 2 channels operating, 20 to 20,000 Hz. at 8 Ohms at a low level of Total Harmonic Distortion (below about 0.09%).  This information should be in your manual, probably in the last few pages.  If the figure is 100 watts per channel, or more, for two channels, the amp is probably powerful enough for your speakers.  A much more realistic  spec would be "with all channels operating," to put a proper strain on the power supply, but AVR manufacturers haven't revealed that for the last few years.  A "bench test" by a reviewer would probably cover that. 


    P.S.  Audyssey makes my system sound much better, really sing. 

    It is infinitely annoying to me that even the best most respected receiver manufacturers don't include power ratings for all channels being driven. I mean who the hell buys a 7.2 receiver to listen to stereo? No one does. So that 2-channel spec is completely useless. And they literally ALL do it! Even on the high end models. 

  2. 4 hours ago, RadBlue said:

    As a quick test I just put my r-250c on the floor and stood on it, I weigh 220lbs, didn't effect it at all :)

    Damn brother thanks for taking one for the team! God just imagine how pissed you'd be if you smashed right through that speaker though LMAO!


    Thanks for the replies everyone. I think it will be just fine. Now just to pull some money out of my a$$ so I can afford the new front soundstage I want plus all the other crap I want ugh haha. 



  3. Ok yeah I missed the whole Marantz NR1609 thing. So you're limited to 5.2 as far as Atmos is concerned. So I assume you're using the Atmos channels in your 280FA and then just using the ceiling channels as rear surrounds? Hey if it sounds good and is immersive then go on with ya bad self haha. Personally I would forgo the ceiling channels and just place some ear level speakers behind you and continue to use the Atmos channels in the 280FA for your height. But at the same time, as far as Atmos is concerned, nothing beats having a direct speaker over head as opposed to bouncing it off the ceiling. It kinda sucks because the dedicated ceiling channels would most certainly provide a better Atmos experience but then you're wasting the Atmos channels in your expensive 280FA towers, essentially turning them into an overpriced 280. 

  4. 21 minutes ago, wvu80 said:

    I don't know the answer to your question.


    The dimensions of your 504C are:  Dimensions: 6.81” x 31.13” x 14.46”


    You could easily build a very strong shelf over the 504C using a six foot long 2x6 using only 3 cuts.  If you don't have a cordless drill you could even glue it together, the guys at Lowes will cut your boards for free.

    That's a good idea I hadn't thought of! Thanks! I was also considering something like this https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mllieroo-Universal-Height-Adjustable-TV-Stand-Table-Top-TV-Stand-for-32-65-inch-LCD-LED-TVs-with-Tempered-Glass-Base-VESA-600x400mm/198636365?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222227235833031&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=279287940401&wl4=pla-468434873268&wl5=9013529&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=198636365&wl13=&veh=sem&gclid=Cj0KCQjw9ZDeBRD9ARIsAMbAmoahMHXlYkJGJMtaPlv-nddXX6zR_pFnO6WIy0s1hnqrg1jVt9XpcHwaAv3LEALw_wcB

    This is a tabletop TV stand and I could attach it to my TV and place it on top of my TV stand and basically place the 504C on top of the little platform on the bottom of the strand. Then maybe put a couple 1/4" spacers in the front of the 504C to make it level again. 

    • Like 1

  5. I mean I would definitely use the ones in the 280 or else buying the FA model was a waste. With that said I would use all 4 I guess. In my opinion, about the only thing ceiling speakers are good for would be height based channels. So I'd utilize one of the other sets you have as surrounds and set it up as a 5.4 Atmos system. Run your room correction stuff and it will configure both pairs of Atmos channels in order to get the most from them. 

  6. As the title says, I'm wondering if it's ok to place my Sony 65 inch TV on top of an RP-504C. I've checked the dimensions and it seems it will fit with room to spare. The 504C is just so wide there's no where else for it to go except on top of my TV stand. Well that leaves no room for the TV and wall mounting isn't an option. My main concern is if having the TV on top will affect the sound and I worry if the 504C structure can support a 60+ pound TV sitting on top of it. I have seen a TV placed on top of a wide center channel in some of the Klipsch promo images although it was a much smaller TV. I would put something in between the TV and speaker to protect the finish on the speaker. Thanks. 

  7. 23 hours ago, smallsmx3 said:

    So far I'm really Digging them.....I was expecting more boom out of them....

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

    You mean like low end bass? Nah you don't wanna be depending on towers for your bass. Especially for home theater use. I'd cross them things over at 80-100hz and let the sub handle all the beautiful low end. I've got two R-12SW subs helping out my R-28F towers and my towers never play a note below 100hz even though they're rated down to 45hz I think. Was 80hz for a while. I'd turn the LPF as high as it will go without localizing the sub in your room. Since my subs are siting directly beside my towers I really could have crossed them over at 120hz but settled at 100hz for some reason. Even my little modest system rocks in 2.2 mode for music. 

  8. 19 hours ago, vn800art said:

    Well, as I said, get acquainted! 7013, 6013= year 2018. 7012 = 2017. 7011 = 2016. 7200wa = I believe 2013, not sure (edit, 2014 base, 2015 wa variant with added hdcp compliant hdmi board).

    Anyway, eArc included from the year 2017 models (and on ) could still be included in the majority of Tvsets producers, and for Marantz is an old feature! I would not buy again my receiver today ( unless it's a gift !), so eventually go for the 7012.





    Ah thanks dude that's what I needed to know! I haven't seen a 7013 on accessories4less yet. Hard to believe that Denon 7200 is from 2014! Wow! That thing must have been quite a beast in 2014. I mean it still is really. I'll be keeping my eyes open for the Denon 6500 on Accessories too. 

    • Like 1

  9. 5 hours ago, vn800art said:

    As I understand you enjoy music listening (Tidal), then Marantz. But which? Try to get acquainted with D+M marketing/set numbers. If you compare D4500 it should go with M7013, not M6013.

    Unless web interface (and I don't know what else, I actually own a Sr7011, btw) which is coming back from the past, there isn't so much new in the 2018 range (Imax ? So Dts could surpass 11channel limit? - you still have max 11 channel !) , so in my opinion the better treatment/extra setting for two channel stereo you would gain with f.e. Sr7012 will cost you exactly what your budget is, maybe less. I demoed 6011 and going top of the line with 7011 brought much more smoothness/authority and clarity with the upgrade.

    Moreover, Klipsch sensitivity is a no problem with power needings.

    Good luck and enjoy!




    Edit: what has been told from other forum members is subscribed in full. Only a clear recommendation: I am still running my father's Klipsch Cornwall from 1978! Together with other 10 speakers. You need only one good/sufficient stereo amp (for front top or front height) to run four overheads, go Atmos/DtsX/Auro!


    Yeah I'm totally considering the 7012 or 7011 now too. I've discovered accessories4less and even though I usually steer clear of refurbished units, they offer a 3 year warranty for $100. They have the SR6013, 7011 and 7012 all for $999. Then they have the Denon AVR-X7200WA for $1500. Is that just a flagship Denon model from last year? Then on the Marantz, the SR7011 and 7012 are from last year too? 


    The flagships from Yamaha and Pioneer are also within reach now too I suppose. Ugh so many damn options. 

    • Like 2

  10. 9 minutes ago, smallsmx3 said:

    I have a buddy who gets them at cost. He got all 3 for less then the cost of 1 at retail. I think it's identical minus the cabinet material and the vented tweeter. I'm really impressed with the build quality of these speakers

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

    Damn you lucky dawg! Let me get your address and the time frames when no one is home....lol

  11. How much was this front stage? Great stuff, I'm looking to upgrade my front stage next year and this could very well be what I'm looking at. 


    EDIT: Ok just checked prices on Klipsch.com. If someone didn't care about the much better looking redesign, would the RP-280 sound identical to these? I mean it is the exact same drivers, right? Is the only difference the sleeker looking cabinet? Because damn $479 a pop for the RP-280 is very enticing. 

  12. Hey my dudes my older Onkyo A/V receiver that powers my old home theater in a box 7.1 system in my bedroom has bit the dust. So I want to put the Onkyo TX-NR757 from my living room in the bedroom. Meaning I'll need a fresh receiver for the living room. I'm looking to budget about $1,500-16 for a receiver. 


    This receiver will be powering my 7.2 all Klipsch speaker system: x2 R-28F towers, R-25C center, x4 R-15M surrounds and 2 R-12SW subs. At some point in the future I intend to upgrade my front stage+subs to something a little higher up the Klipsch ladder (at least RP). Although, to be honest, I don't exactly know why because I've been extremely happy with the sound from my Best Buy Klipsch setup haha. The towers+subs in 2.2 especially shine for my music through Tidal or my extensive FLAC collection. But I have no complaints from movies either. Quite the opposite, it impresses me with every listen


    Regardless this speaker upgrade will be next year most likely, but for now a receiver is needed to power what I have and potentially in the future. For my budget I've narrowed it down to the Denon AVR-X4500H and Marantz SR6013. The Denon has somewhat annoyed me so far as their power ratings are listed as that BS 4ohm one channel figure that is completely useless. The Marantz listing I saw listed the power as 150WPC but didn't specify any further. But, from what I gather,  Marantz is pretty straight forward and honest with their power ratings. But I mean surely this thing isn't outputting 150wpc on 9 damn channels, I mean right? Either way, they'll both be heaps more powerful than the Onkyo they're replacing and as far I can tell this Onkyo powers these speakers just fine, so power isn't too much of a concern. 


    So what do you guys think as far as these two brands and how they synergize with Klipsch? Thanks in advance. And if anyone can point me to a bench test of these two receivers I'd sure be grateful as I can't find one. 

    • Like 1

  13. I take back what I said about 80hz. Jesus I just set all my crossovers and LPF settings to 120hz (seemingly for the first time ever I guess? WTH have I been doing these last two years?) and wow was I missing some frequencies. At least for music, 120hz is where it’s at. Haven’t tried a movie yet but don’t see why it would be different. 

  14. I know you mentioned it I think but have you tried hooking up the speaker while bypassing the speaker wire plate and in wall wire? You don’t know what’s going on inside that wall so try plugging your speaker directly into the receiver. It doesn’t surprise me that whatever issue is being amplified by the Klipsch speakers, which are famously efficient and sensitive. It wouldn’t surprise me if some speaker wire is cross polaritied (is that a word?) inside that wall. 

    • Like 4

  15. Don’t mean to hijack a thread but it seems to be answered already at least. What is the matching center for a pair of R-28F towers? I have the R-25c and it really seems great. I would of course prefer one of the monster 4 speaker centers but they were out of budget at the time of purchase. 

  16. On 2/17/2017 at 8:58 PM, USNRET said:

    Well, I guess I don't know what you want or expect. Use audyssey and be happy.

    I understand that Bose has sound bars that don't need setting perhaps that will be of service to you.


    Wow really dude? Really all this guy wanted to know was how to hook up his second sub. Either by y-splitter or a second pre-out on the receiver. A y-splitter is perfectly fine if you don’t have a second sub pre-out on the back of your receiver. Run the cable into the LFE input on BOTH subs. Keep the knob on back of sub set to LFE and set the LPF of LFE setting in your receiver settings to 80hz. 80hz is what I use anyway. All my other crossovers for my regular speakers are set to 80hz as well. 


    Just tell the man what to do rather than try to teach him all the intricacies of each setting. He’ll have to learn those as he goes and that will take time. You’re trying to overload him with too much information. Few people even answered the simple question he had about a y-splitter. He really just wants to know how to hook his two subs up and what settings to put them at. And yeah those settings can vary with each setup but 80hz is certainly a good standard. 


    No need to go buy a Bose sound bar 🙄

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