glens

Congratulations!

Oh, you're like the older Kentuckian who, while at the airport in Indy, saw listed a flight to Chicago that departed at 11:55 AM and landed at 10:45 AM the same day. He was asking about the flight at the ticket counter. They tried to sell him a ticket but he declared he "just wanted to watch that plane take off."

I wasn't directly referring to "volume" output, rather the "pitch" as played. I surmise that the current tuning is A(something, maybe "4") is still 440 Hz (but it may be upwards of 450 nowadays). I've got some recordings (with either actual "period instruments" or faithful reproductions) where that "A" is much closer to 400 Hz, as was the custom before steel strings and greater (violin family) neck angles were introduced to attain greater volume (I have it on fairly good authority that even most "Stradivarius" instruments still in use have been thusly modified!). Then there's the (keyboard) tunings which didn't follow a strictly "mathematical" scheme until very much more recently. "Perfect pitch" really doesn't mean anything in the big picture. It's humorous to hear Mozart's works played on modern instruments in a modern fashion. Well, actually, it's not funny; it's quite sad. Not to say he wouldn't write music appropriately for them if that's what he'd had available, but he didn't, so he didn't. A lot of the finer details in his music get lost on a regular basis nowadays. Fiddle players (and others) usually now play with such a heavy, constant vibrato as a matter of course (Mozart was a virtuoso violin player, and letters between him and his dad mention players already flirting with that then, described in the letters as if they'd had a "palsy"), that many of the finer "turns" in his music get totally lost when played that way. I humor myself with the notion that when played, the musicians likely give each other a funny wink as if "why did he write it that way when you can't even hear it!"

'You get what you pay for.'

I can't think of the guy's name, something like "Amir" maybe, who tests DACs, etc, and now speakers, and declares them good, bad, or otherwise as a result.

Isn't there a forum which declares measurement is all that matters?

I've long wanted to see someone with perfect pitch listen to a "period performance" played at "period pitch". It must be agonizing for them...

Like as in pack it into a bowl and light it while inhaling? ;^)

Kind of my off-handed point...

Https://discogs.com/

Well, I'm using a NAD C328 driving a pair of Forte 3s for 2.0 AV and just audio. Gives me all the AV "immersion" I require.

Simple answer to the dilemma is to buy all 5!

You possibly could isolate the DC power feed(s) to the sound card and supply it from a dedicated power supply. I'd wager that would cure both ills.

20 times the LOG of ( 6.1 / 6.6 ) equals -0.68 dB. (+0.68 for 6.6 / 6.1). You can express most anything in "dB". Whether it's correct to do so or not is another matter. And whether it's correct to use DC resistance versus actual impedance is also another matter. You've compared DC resistance of the voice coils. How about the specific magnet strengths, and the concentricity of the parts forming the voice coil gaps and the coils within them?

Well the problem is going to be either in the amplifier inside the woofer, or in one of the speakers, or the wire between them. If you unplug all the wires and reconnect them swapped to the other red/black outputs, and the same speaker stays quiet, it's that speaker or its wire. If the problem moves to the other speaker, it's inside the woofer that needs fixed. You got to narrow it down.

I take it you mean a network interface which isn't in a USB dongle?

It matters from a purely technical standpoint, but mis-wiring the speakers should not cause "physical" harm. You say one speaker went out. Does it stay out when you swap the wire pairs left-to-right on the back of the woofer?

Good point about the crossovers. Reviewing the photos (on my "phone") a case could be made for the grilles being in better shape (less "exposure") than the cabinets. And I see a possibility that one cabinet maybe "done a faceplant" into something. Look over the entire woofer cones / surrounds real good. Even if there's yet-unseen damage to the drivers I'd still take 'em. It would just drive the price down a little further, but not so much that "I" would lose the opportunity.

I've seen such shenanigans as what damaged those drivers get totally thwarted by leaving the grilles in place. Bare-faced speakers shout "Poke my domes!" even when silent. The mere chance of the presence of kids or dogs, even (don't dogs seem to just love round things that move?), requires the speakers be fully clothed IMO.

I'd go for 'em if they work. Bring an amp, a source, and some wire to check them out. The center caps might perform a little function up near the top of the driver range; I'd shuffle them so each cabinet has a good (form) center in the upper position. If the woofers are vented (a screen in the middle of the magnet) you can take a length of solid copper wire as big around as you can fit through the screen (and you can wedge an opening larger if necessary), round over the end of the wire nicely, and carefully re-form the covers from behind. They won't lose all appearance of having been deformed but you can restore the general shape to a very large degree. The holes in the one will be okay since it's not a sealed cabinet. Even so you may be able to fill them with small drops of model paint or nail polish without appreciably affecting the moving mass.

Whatever else is or isn't going on with the speakers at any given time, the part which converts "wall" voltage to the forms and levels needed by the electronics in the one speaker [its power supply] is doing at least some work at all times. And that'll generate heat. So how warm is "warm"? Is it warmer than the brick powering your laptop? Is it warm like after a while of playing loud music loud? (Haha: is there a room heat register behind / below the speaker and the furnace is running?)

At the nominal crossover frequency it's 45 degrees per element. Just an inductor on the woofer and a capacitor on the next one up, at that crossover frequency is +45 one way and -45 the other, for a combined total of 90 difference. Two elements each driver nets 180 difference at that point, etc. 360 apart is as good as 0 but for the one cycle one driver does first and the one the other does last, at the nominal crossover frequency. But if my imperfect understanding is correct, each element causes a 90 degree phase shift eventually (in its greater attenuation end of things), implying that it exhibits less phase angle change at the greatest part of its pass band. So say you had a symmetrical second-order crossover (180 apart) on a two-way system. The high-pass goes 90 one way and the low-pass goes 90 the other direction. If you used a pair of monstrous coil and cap to form a high-pass at 30 Hz to feed your woofer and appropriate coil and cap to low-pass your tweeter at 20 kHz thinking it'll provide 0 degrees difference at the woofer/tweeter crossover (essentially undoing the phase angle shifts there, for a form of "minimum phase passive crossover network" ), I believe you'll have wasted good time and money (and wasted amplifier function) for no net gain in that respect. I reserve the right to be wrong, though. A cap and coil each the size of a suitcase driving the woofer might be just the ticket...

Purely speculative on my part in thinking that you call customer service, they pass an email to engineering, who then contact a different customer service or engineering team on the other side of the world. Could be yet more layers than that, with upwards of a week before the customer service you contacted even gets the first response, when everyone's healthy and working full time. Surely there are a multitude of these products in use throughout the world, with the reports we see here representing an even lower than anticipated level of trouble overall? I'm not so much a fan of the generally current business model (not singling out Klipsch) but what's to be done about it as merely an end user? Take business elsewhere? Most likely the same thing only different there...

Well, the two smaller woofers may together move more air, but unless they're crossed over differently from one another there will be resultant anomalies towards the top of their range. And if they are crossed over differently, there will be anomalies through that region. Generally speaking. Is the KG an MTM design? I forget.

A cube would be the worst-case scenario. What you've got is 2/3 the way there. 3" difference over 13' is nominally nothing. But I ain't braggin' 'bout my room; it's a sight in its own right.